c-attack

No, it’s not likely a new Commander Core will help. The “false cpu fan error” (assuming you’re not actually overheating) is related to the pump itself. The AIO still functions running in hardware mode but the error prevents you from controlling anything. This is an unrecoverable problem and you’ll need to contact Corsair Support for a replacement. 
 
This problem has been around since the Elite Capellix was introduced and I don’t think we’ve ever really narrowed down the origin. Best guess is it’s related to the tach sensor in the pump. It fails in some way and then starts sending the false signal to the software. 

Connect the XD5 tachometer line to any available motherboard fan header.  See if you get a reading there.  If not, then there is a defect in the cable or unit and you'll need to replace it.  If does read there, try a different port besides number 6 on the Commander XT.  

1) It varies but the typical range is usually in the 20-40C zone or about +4-7C above your room temp at idle and then perhaps as much as +10C more than that when gaming.  For most users with a moderate or larger GPU, the gaming will cause the highest coolant temps because of the additional case heat created.  The internal case temperature is also the minimum possible coolant temperature.  It usually makes more sense to program your fan curves for these targets -- if that reflects your normal use.  Things like a CPU stress test are never random or likely frequent and you can set a fixed fan speed when performing those types of deliberate operations.  Coolant temp rise for a CPU only stress test varies with the test and CPU, but +8C is typical for a 240mm with moderate fan speed.
 
2) You want a relatively flat zone around the normal cool idle temperature with some leeway on either side so you don't get speed shifts because the room is +2C warmer in the afternoon vs morning, etc.  Next time you boot up, just do normal tasks for 5-10 min and check the coolant temp.  That's your baseline.  The next point to determine is your max liquid temp when gaming or whatever else you do that stresses the PC.  Then you set the highest fan speed you are willing to tolerate for noise and assign it to that temp point.  When in doubt, always choose based on noise or sound quality.  +-100 rpm will make no difference in cooling effect but can be just that little bit too much for peaceful enjoyment.  All the points in between those two can be a smooth line.  Save the last two points for some type of audible max fan blast warning.  Something like 50-55C=2400 rpm.  That should be well out of reach but should you ever hear the fans come on like a train when playing, you know something is amiss.  
 
 
The pic below is from my Commander Pro so it won't be exactly the same as the LINK AIO, but it works the same.  One thing to note is the CUE Hub's have some very wacky presets right now.  They seem to be designed for CPU temp (a terrible control variable) but then default to QX Fan temp, which may or may not work depending on whether the fan is intake or exhaust.  You'll have to do it manually and make sure you change the "sensor" to H100i CUE LINK AIO Temp.  The blue zone is idle and then a simple color progression up through the temps you are likely to see.  Everyone is different here, so someone in a northern latitude is going to be low on the scale and someone in the Tropics will be 30-45C zone year round.  There also is some bias with radiator location and case design.  Noise suppression cases trap heat and may cause higher coolant temps.  Top radiator placements are slightly warmer because of the natural case air temp balance.  If you front mounted your radiator and that is the only source of intake air, then we need to do something different.  
 

 
120mm fans are somewhat effective in the 700-800 rpm range but the 1000-1300 rpm range is where you get the most dissipation vs noise.  You likely want to be in that zone for most of your gaming.  Also, don't forget your CPU likely only uses 100-150W at most during most gaming, which isn't all that much to get rid off.  If you run the top fans at extreme speeds, you may pull more heat through the radiator as opposed to the rear exhaust or rear venting which is the preferable place for it to go.  
 

The H100i Pro XT is powered from its SATA connection.  That's the only one you need to worry about for the moment.  The tachometer cable to the motherboard and USB connection have other purposes, but neither can stop the pump from running and the unit should be fully functional even if you never connect them.  Concerning is the fans are running, which means you have unit power if using the XT's fan controller.  If the pump is not running in that state, then something has gone wrong with the pump and that is not going to be a user solvable issue.
 
If the above is true, contact Corsair Support as means toward replacement.  The AIO has a 5 year warranty, although if it came as part of a builder package, you might not have the receipt for it and this could be a bit tricky.  

The typical 24 pin jumper disables the pci-e power lines, just like the gpu. Unfortunately this is not the same behavior as SATA or molex that do receive power with the jumper. 
 
The easiest solution may be to connect the CUE Link hub and AIO to a spare pci-e in an existing PC. All you need to do is run the PSU line out the front. No need for the tach cable.  You’ll feel pump vibrations if it’s running. 

CUE does not differentiate 120 and 140mm fans for RGB purposes.  Each fan model has the same number of LEDs and geometry for it's respective 120/140mm sizes.  You can put them in any order.
 
The H170i Elite Capellix will come with a Commander Core controller.  This is PWM and RGB for 6 fans - direct connections for each.  You then have a choice to make.
1) Commander XT path -> this is the sibling controller to the Commander Core and looks the same, minus the AIO pump power controls.  It will be another 6 PWM and 6 RGB ports, which should cover the rest.  Individual fan RGB/LED control and individual fan speed control.  Both controllers are the newer type that can differentiate fan LED counts allowing mixing of fans.  However, based on what's you've listed you likely are using a combination of ML-Elite, AF-Elite, or SP-Elite fans which all have 8 center hub LEDs and are identical for programming and color HUE.  No special adaptations needed and all go under the "8 LED fan series" banner.  For most users, this is the best path.
2) Lighting Node Core + PWM repeater option -> If you have special case lighting or control requirements where you specifically want things to act as groups of 4 or some other combination that does not fit the 6+6 model, you can set this up with just the Commander Core as the central fan speed controller plus 1-2 powered PWM hubs to effectively act as a powered splitter for a specific bank of fans.  I usually do my custom water cooling loops this way out of preference and also because I have heaps of older controllers to do the job for lighting and other RGB devices.  You then make sure you get a twin 140 or triple 120mm pack or two to get 2 Lighting Node Core devices.  This is RGB control for remaining fans.  This way requires more devices, more USB connections, and more SATA connections for power.  You only do it this way if there is a compelling reason to structure it like that or you already have all these parts and don't want to spend $50 on a Commander XT.  It is not likely to be cheaper if you have to buy parts and 140mm fans have a weird price matrix for the twin pack vs the triple 120s when compared to singles.  

This seems to be a more prevalent issue since CUE went modular but It does not seem to be version specific.  The repair option typically does not work in this state  
 
The suggestion above should have worked, but you definitely will need to clean out the registry. It’s not as complex as it seems. Just two spots and directions below. 
https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025166712-Perform-a-clean-reinstallation-of-the-Corsair-Utility-Engine-iCUE-
 
If you’re still stuck after that, you might consider using a professional software removal tool like Revo or another free uninstaller. Some users report safe mode works and the 3rd party uninstaller doesn’t and vice versa, so it can be hit or miss. Likely also means the corruption is happening in different ways. 

The XC7 won't show as a 'device' like anything connected with a USB hub.  However, it should show for lighting purposes.  Try running the "Setup Wizard" again from the CUE Link Hub device page.  If it still does not connect, I wonder if there is an issue with the Link cable.  

So the rgb will work just fine. It’s an 8 led center hub fan, just like your AF-Elite. Should be an exact color match. However, the SP-Pro comes from a time before the Commander Core/XT and it’s a 3 pin DC motor. The controller can’t alter the voltage and it will spin at maximum at all times. You likely want to move the fan speed connector side only to the motherboard for control. 
 
The SP-Elite replaced the pro and while rgb is the same, it got a PWM motor to work with these controllers. 

Frequency is the key determining factor in memory performance.  A 2x16GB set that is set to 4000 will be faster than a set at 3200.  Most of the time when you see RAM marketed, you will see the XMP overclock preset listed.  That's all those numbers like 3200, 3466, 3600, 4000, etc.  However, each RAM set has a base default clock speed determined by it's type and the CPU it's mated with.  Most manufacturers refer to this as "default" or JEDEC frequency.  Corsair has started listing this as SPD for whatever reason.  If you do not turn on the XMP preset, this is the memory frequency the RAM will take.  It does not have any meaning if you intended to use the XMP preset or otherwise manually set your RAM timings.  
 
As a secondary indicator, it does same say something about the origin period of the product.  When DDR4 first launched, 2133 was the default speed.  It would move up to 2666 and finally 3200 as years went by and with capable hardware.  On some level a lower SPD frequency like 2133 may be more compatible with a larger series of motherboards like low end models that don't allow frequencies in the 3200+ range.  In your case, it doesn't matter because you are presumably shopping for a 3600 kit and intend to run it at 3600.  No matter what the default setting may be, a 18-22-22-42 kit set to 3600 is the same as another 18-22-22-42 kit set to 3600.  For the kits you are comparing, they likely use the same IC type are identical in every way except the physical appearance.

I think what’s happening here is the “green” profile is assigned to Application X and that makes it exclusive to that application. When you hit the Win key the desktop becomes in the in focus application and so it transitions back to the default profile, until you return focus to the linked application. 
 
Possible solutions are to disable the Win key in the green profile (if this accidental like in game) or if you need to use this profile while on the desktop, create a copy of it. In Green 2 (or whatever you want to name the copy) delete the program link. It will now function like a normal profile and CUE will still auto switch to its twin when the app is in focus. 

Watch out for the "lighting timing" in the top right corner of the graph.  It defaults to 1.0 seconds and that will only allow a flicker before it repeats.  The three tools you have to manipulate the wave are length (tail), velocity in LEDs per second, and the total time before the effect resets at LED#1 (Lighting Time).  You also need to make sure the effect is applied to all lighting elements, but I'll assume that's not it.  If the lighting time is not the issue, you'll need to post a screen shot so we can see what's going on.
 

Nothing has changed as the problem is physical versus software.  The IP67 model was out then and what makes it different is the housing and sealing rather than the motor itself.  The 2000 PWM version should work regardless of IP67 rating.
 
3-4 fans at 2000 rpm is a torrent of air unless you have done something to block the flow.  Remember the case fans control the internal case ambient temperature.  They won't lower your GPU directly, except by decreasing the baseline temperature (internal case temp).  There should be no need for 3000 rpm fans and those will be a control problem on the Commander Pro.  Presumably it is the GPU temp you are concerned about rather than actual internal temperature?  That you need to control with its own fans.  
 
Most people who go this route wind up disappointed and there is a minimal difference between a bunch of fans at 1600 vs 2000 rpm.   Maybe we should get into specifics about what parts of the case are too hot, general layout (assuming H170i is up top as exhaust), etc.
 
On a side note, the 60C temperature rating for soft or hard tubing is the liquid temp, not air temp.  It is impossible to heat up the liquid in a custom loop or AIO to 60C without stopping or severely restricting the liquid flow.  It's also unlikely you air temp in the case is 60C.  That would make the AIO sit at 60C coolant temp as well and it has the same limit.  At 60C liquid/air temp, that becomes the minimum temperature of the CPU and GPU with no voltage.  The moment either component tries to do anything you'll hit the thermal limit, so rather than a physical limitation and product failure, you bounce of the hardware limits first.  

You may want to look for user impressions on the 7800 X3D, but his is pretty typical for any modern CPU and they are very reactive with a lot of cores.  No matter what you use for a cooling method, you can't prevent the CPU temp jump when voltage is applied underneath.  The CPU is cooled conductively.  The rest of the cooler is about dumping that heat somewhere else.  A larger or more effective CPU cooler will let you go longer or use less fan speed before the CPU temp reaches Temp X, but it can't prevent the original event.  
 
More concerning would be if the game load temps jumped to 90C and a stress test hit the max immediately or if you see really low 20-30C temp and then spikes to 80C when opening a browsers.  The CPU temp always will rise and fall with the voltage.  A 20-25C bump from idle to "working" seem about right for AMD and it's about the same on my 13900K.  The difference between game loading/playing and full stress also seems about right.  AMD CPUs always idle higher than Intel and have lower maximum temperature thresholds, but that does not hinder their actual performance.  The other thing that make this appear unusual is a lot of games now use complex instructions in their loading, specifically when they are assessing what hardware you are using.  I usually see my highest CPU temp of the session when the game loads, not when actually playing.  

Those are LL fans and the Lighting Node Core is a serial controller.  If LED #8 on Fan #2 goes out, the lights will stop there.  So the question is what order are your fans?  It looks like 1 is lit and maybe 6 is half lit, but that would not be a normal result and it may be the fan order is different on the controller.
 
The normal trouble shooting method is move the problem fan to last or first.  In this case, the rear exhaust that is half lit should allow all other fans to work if you put in the last position.  If it's already last or the other fans do not light up when it is moved to #6, then we may be looking at a controller problem with the LNCore.  

I'd say it's at the end of a long life.  Clicking is common for mechanical failure.  Lack of mechanical sound in a 10 year old small pump is troubling.  Probably time to go shopping.  

You can put it on the CPU only.  It will transfer to the cold plate when tightened down.  Putting it on both sides usually winds up being too much.  

LOL.  Sorry, blew right by the title.  
 
Same thing, but just work down the light bar.   Create your static color set.  CTRL + Left mouse click to apply it to individual LEDs or click+drag to section.  You can remove the effect from the entire stick on creation by left clicking anywhere in the CUE window.  That will reset that specific color to "no applcation".  

The coolant temp is 62C? (H100i Temp)
 
Thats a strong warning and usually a sign the lifespan has ended. If you have an older H100i that gets its power from the motherboard fan headers, make sure the bios fan setting is at 100%, full speed, maximum or whatever language it uses for a 12v signal. 
 
Aside from that or if you have a SATA powered AIO, this means liquid is not moving through the cpu block. If still under warranty, contact Corsair Support. 

Unfortunately this appears to be the intended design.  While you can connect various different devices to the CUE Link hub, they are not identical in terms of LED geometry or capability.  Rather than provide separate controls for each device based on capability, CUE uses the least capable device as the core unit and all other devices will only show that devices effects.  In your situation, the AIO LEDs are the least capable and those become the universal presets for devices on that hub.
 
The only possible workaround is to use a second hub for the QX or other more complex devices and leave the lower tier AIO on its own.  I have not seen the new Hydro X Elite CPU/XD5 effects list, so I am not sure where those will fit in.  With 20 LEDs they could have a wide range of special effects or lose them.  I need someone to post what they see for both those devices.  

This seems to be one of the continuing issues with the new CUE 5.  If you've done the normal "clean install" directions from CUE and it won't work, reboot to safe mode and try to do the registry clean and delete again.  Another option is to use professional removal software like Revo or similar products.  They will hunt for hidden files you (and the uninstaller) may have missed.  I had to do it about a month back as used Revo, but the safe mode should work too.  

The 5.7 update appears to have disconnected the fan curve from non-native control variables like CPU temp or GPU temp.  However, the temp sensor registers 1-4 still work properly for fan control and that may be a better option for some people vs uninstalling and going to CUE 4.  See the the thread below for a discussion on where to place the temp sensor (rear exhaust) and suggestions on control.  
 
https://forum.corsair.com/forums/topic/186605-custom-fan-curve-only-responds-to-commander-pro-temp/#comment-1056545
 

No doubt there is an issue with the fan curve on the Commander Pro when the variable is CPU or GPU temp.  I did not go through the rest of the variables, but it is near certain they will the same.  I think this will affect the Commander Core the same way, but the CUE Link Hub and it's connected devices appear to work normally when using CPU package temp.
 
As for the temp probes, you can put them anywhere you want for informational purposes.  However, the key location with the most utility is the rear exhaust -- either inside or outside the case.  Regardless of whether the heat comes from the GPU, RAM+VRM, CPU air cooler, or anything else, a rise in exit air temp tells you interior heat it up and you can mitigate that by bring in more cool air from outside while trying to evacuate the other.  It's somewhat difficult to directly cool a component like the GPU, CPU, RAM without putting a specialized fan right on it.  The GPU's own fans always will be the key to managing it's temp.  The case fans are on the "don't make this worse" side of the table.  
 
The following is an easy way to set things up.  Everyone has a max fan speed limit they are willing to tolerate for normal  use.  Whatever that value, you want it to be just above your load case temp.  So if you put a temp probe near the rear exhaust and it generally tops out at 55C when gaming, set your max allowed fan speed to 58-60C to start.  Other than that, it's really about noise management.  Nobody drops 5C on their GPU because they increase the fan speed by 200 rpm.  It's not anywhere close to being that sensitive to fan speed changes.  You also likely have normal desktop exit air temp for the probe in the mid to upper 30s and that should be set to your preferred quiet fan speed.  Everything in between can be a straight line.  In practical purposes, this makes the case fans really quiet except when the GPU starts using a lot of power for an extended time.  
 
The radiator fans for the AIO present a choice.  Easy thing to do is move them back to the motherboard so it can properly get a CPU temp.  Quick and mostly self-explanatory.  The other option is to put a Commander Pro temp probe on the exhaust side of the CPU radiator.  There is a direct relationship between the liquid temp and the exhaust air temp, typically as a small offset like +-2C from the actual.  This makes a very effective way to "run from coolant temp" even when you don't have a real sensor.  When you heat up the inside with GPU heat, it also will reflect that and increase speed.  That can be a plus of minus depending on use and case layout, but it's the same as when using any Corsair AIO and the coolant temp within CUE.  
 
These should generate automatically with no user input required.  The most probable is the sensor wire is not fully inserted or defective in some way.  These 10K thermistors are cheap and not too difficult to damage.  It could be the senor on the C-Pro as well, so try moving it to another register like 3 or 4.  
 
I believe it gets it from the GPU driver, much like the rest of the system.  CUE uses the CPUID developer kit to fetch data from other devices.  My CUE is properly obtaining these control variables and I have data, but something is preventing the fan curve from utilizing it.  I do not believe this was a known condition and it's going to be a bit before we get a fix.  There are some separate ongoing issues with AMD GPU temps and past issues with AMD CPU temps.  Obviously if CUE can't get the AMD GPU temp, it won't work for  control regardless so there are some  overlapping issues.  Nevertheless, this fan curve one is not limited to AMD.  It is affecting my Intel CPU and Nvidia GPU.  

Most likely.  No QVL for the Dark Hero yet since I don't think we're at the official release.  However, you likely want to consider a 2x32 kit if you need 64GB.  No advantage to 4 modules on these boards and very clear disadvantages.  

The LS100 bars are a series circuit, so if there is a problem on a led in the middle of a specific bar, the lights stop there. Sometimes with partial break you get strobing or flickering, but it’s the same general issue. 
 
What reason is there to suspect the software side?  Does the bar work normally if you quit CUE and drop into HW Lighting Mode?