c-attack

If you manually quit CUE, does the problem persist? Not sure if this is hardware, software, or OS originating yet.

This is typically what happens when MSI mystic light/aura tries to grab control of the device during load. Go into your MSI settings and make sure the “sync all” function is turned off. That function seems to have extended complications when used. It also seems like you have enough gear where you need to use CUE, so I don’t see a reason to be using the JCorsair rgb header on the MB (if you even have one). That’s what MSI integration does. It does not transfer full motherboard rgb control to CUE. Turn it off for now to help isolate the cause. Corsair KBs often default to red when there is a hardware issue with its internal lighting controller. However, that would be a permanent state and the CUE service restart would not matter. This appears to be a software conflict.

No more washing your hands with HCl before gaming. I was about to write we haven’t seen any Darkstar mice exhibit that kind of wear, but that appears to be a Dark Core and there have been a few photos over the years where that ‘soft’ skin flakes a bit. However, I haven’t seen anything that extreme and not in that short a time. I got mine out of the box. It likely has 1000 hours of use. Not a spec of material missing and I am not overly concerned with the state of my hands when I sit down at the PC. If you bought it new, contact Corsair Support. That level of peeling seems like a fabrication problem, but be prepared for someone to claim ‘normal wear and tear’. If you bought used, you’re probably out of luck. If you’re trying to decide whether to buy another, I’d say that depends on how much you loved the feel. A new M75 Air is roughly the same price, wireless, and likely more durable. Some of the newer wireless gaming mice like the Darkstar are very expensive.

With the CUE software running, you should have an option to disable the side buttons. It is a separate option in the assignments choices on the left side. However, you can’t do that in hardware mode, so if you need them to be disabled during non-CUE use the best option might be as you suggested — to assign a meaningless key. That can be done in HW mode. Not sure what will work best for you, but likely something like Shift or ALT that does not produce a character when activated to cover any accidental presses.

I don’t think there’s any reason the worry. The outer sleeve is cosmetic and you sometimes see small sections that are not ‘skin tight’ on the underlying tube. That little wave closer to the radiator side may relax in time after the tubes heat up (mostly from case temp). However, if you feel genuine kinks or creases in the underlying tube beneath the sleeve, that is potentially problematic. It could restrict the flow and those should not pass a QC check.

The RAM is the only CUE device? While usb disconnect issues are very common on x570 platforms, it is not usually the RAM in play since it communicates in a different way. Are these CUE crashes? Or the RAM drops in and out of CUE?

That is all normal and the CPUID CUE uses to fetch the data has trouble with the Asus Embedded Controller. Other programs like HWinfo will give you a warning about it, but seem to handle the interaction better. You get lots of duplicates and junk values at the min/max end of the range. This has been an issue for many, many years. Similar discussion earlier this week.

Without a Corsair input device (KB or mouse), you don't have a way to interact with CUE in that fashion. The fans and strips are on the receiving end only. There might be some work around using the SDK and something like auto-hot-key, but that is not something I have done.

For the most part, it’s the same memory material underneath with some changes to the aesthetics in the heat spreader. The RS and RT lines are set in opposite ends of the frequency range. RS kits will be lower frequency and RT will be higher. To get 4000, you will need a RT kit. So it comes down to which style you prefer between a 4000 (2x16?) RT kit and Vengeance Pro kit. There may be small differences in primary timings depending on the kit version, so that is an additional factor to look at for example. There can be two RT or two Pro kits both at 4000 but with different timings.

Where did that notation come from? That’s going to confuse people and needs to disappear. Static pressure as used in PC fans is the amount pressure needed to bring the fan to a stop at RPM X. Most manufacturers use the maximum speed of the fan when quoting, so even a tiny 40x40 fan with a really high max speed has a gaudy static pressure value while moving all of 11 CFM. What does matter is the amount of air the fan can move (in comparison to acceptable noise). A fan with a high static pressure may be better at moving air through a more restricted space, like a dust filter or radiator — subject to its actual ability to move air. Any of Corsair’s fans can be used as intake or exhaust and nearly all of them are of a hybrid design somewhere between the old “flat and few blades = static pressure” and the “thin, raked, and many blades = more airflow” paradigms. Frankly none of this matters except from an academic point of view or possibly in specific niche applications like thick and/or dense radiators or low speed drive stack cooling. If it’s really bugging you, an AF Elite RGB can go into the rear slot. It has 8 center hub LEDs and is a color hue match for the other 8 LED series fans like the SP-Elite while having a more open blade design.

Same thing and unfortunately it typically can’t correct corrupted files. So Commander Core and Commander XT. Did both devices lose their curves? Unfortunately it seems like the cooling.config file might be what got corrupted during the 5.12 install. You likely won’t be able to drop the file into a new install and will need to manually import a profile with the asked fan profile. Deleting the cooling configuration file while CUE is not running and then starting the app might work, but you’ll still need to redo the fan curves and telling if this was the only error. On CUE 5, clean install is the better way to go.

You probably need to be more specific about what devices are in use, but disappearing curves has not been a widely reported issue on this version, so you're likely looking at local file corruption. CUE 5 is server based. It always will download the current version. You cannot go back to a specific one even with the former installer. It seems like your tried a repair install from the Windows Apps list (Modify). That was the easy fix. If that didn't work, you probably will need to do a full clean install. This does erase everything, so make sure you export any valuable profiles prior to starting. The registry clean out is essential and seems to be one of the more common sources of problems on CUE 5. https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025166712-iCUE-How-to-perform-a-clean-reinstallation-of-iCUE

Coolant temp is the one that controls your fan speed, gives you an indication of how much heat is in the cooling system, and is unique to CUE so you can't get it elsewhere. I would say that stays to help you learn it's behavior, but ultimately this is just monitoring and everything runs the same regardless of what you choose. For the second, most people probably can go with CPU or GPU temp. CPU temp is not the same as H150i Elite Coolant Temp. Coolant temp is the minimum possible CPU temp with zero voltage on the processor. It's the baseline. CPU temp will always be coolant temp + some offset based on voltage/current level at that given moment. If you really want to watch your CPU temp from there you can, but it's going to jump around like crazy and might be somewhat distracting. Regardless, if you are new to water cooling the comparison between liquid temp and CPU temp may help you better understand the relationship. Since I get CPU and GPU temps with other monitoring software when gaming, I would probably choose RAM temp -- something not present in most of those utilities.

You probably need to do this manually at the expense of having it generate random colors. You can use the type lighting feature, but it will then force you to choose between 'full keyboard ripple" (even with shortest duration) or per key only. I made a quick example below. Play from the Pressed Key is essential. You can select your color gradient based on preference or try to squeeze a rainbow in there to give the illusion of random colors as they overlap. Your other tool with be the Lighting Time and Velocity. No exact numbers for this but you use the time, speed, and tail to keep the effect from running across the board. Tail should be 1-3 keys depending on preference.

Are you asking about speed control or RGB control? For speed control, the easiest solution is to take any 2 of your LL or SP-Elite fans and pair them with a standard PWM splitter. That will free up a slot for the XD5 PWM. No need for individual fan speed control all the way through an one paired set of fans should not bother the controller. RGB is more complicated. You have two RGB channels available, one on each Commander XT. The XD5 can connect directly to any one of these. However, you also may need one for the strips. If the XT will let you piggy back those on the XD5, great. That leaves you one open channel for the CPU block. I don't know of any European based suppliers, but there are 3rd party adapters to connect a 'motherboard style' 5v ARGB connector to a Corsair style one. My preference would be to use that to connect to the XD5 and you can tell CUE it is a XC7 block and it will create an appropriate number of LEDs. This is what I do with my Velocity 2 block. This is an example of one that would work.

There's no way to know for sure. If you are still in the return period on the Corsair RAM and have the ability to purchase another kit first, it might be worth a go to compare. If both kits are still freezing, then the issue may be elsewhere. We seem to be exhausting easy remedies.

The 4000 series only fits a 120mm fan in the rear slot. It's the most compact of the line and will have little extra space in any zone. You can do 140mm fans (2) on the front and top, but I would recommend 120s for everyone as that is the natural fit. Regardless, not reason for regret here. If you had a case full of 140s and then had to do a 120 in the back, it might look a little off. The same is true in reverse and the difference in airflow can be nullified with a speed bump or simply ignored. It won't have a noticeable effect on case and component temps.

Correct. No pump speed control on this model. It runs at a fixed speed. Theoretically you can under volt the pump to slow it down, but that may have long term consequences as it was designed to have 12v power. Pump speed range is pretty narrow on Capellix models as well and not going to be a factor in performance.

Contact Corsair Support. Assuming these are bad bearings on the QX, they will send you new fans. Ask for the Advanced RMA. This is where they ship you new parts on a credit card hold. You get the new gear, swap it out and send it back. Credit Card hold released.

The radiator fans should not dynamically change speed with your CPU temp that jumps around all day. The fans do not cool the CPU. The CPU is cooled conductively from lid to cold plate on the AIO. The water, radiator, and fans are heat relocation system. Move the heat elsewhere and dump it out of the AIO. If you don't move the heat elsewhere, it does build up and this adds to your CPU temp. The measure of that is your liquid temp or more specifically the change in liquid temp. +1C to liquid temp is +1C to CPU. In a 5 min test you might see +6C increase in liquid temp on a 360mm radiator, depending on CPU model and test. If you are getting a hard shift in fan speed in 5-10 seconds, then either the radiator fans are set to the wrong control variable or more likely the 6 other QX fans are running from CPU temp -- unintentionally or not. Since liquid temp increases 1:1 with case temp, it makes a decent case fan control variable as well. You can use the same curve for all fans or slightly different versions of it if you prefer one bank of fans runs quieter than another. Most users should make their own control curve, even if it is a copy of the presets. At least then you can see the data points and understand what it's doing. Go to the yellow + tab in cooling. A graph will appear below. There are some shape tools in the lower right corner. Click on any of one them to generate one of the presets. Change the "sensor" to H150i CUE Link Temp. This is the liquid temp. You can shift points around as needed. Water cooling is not overly sensitive and you should always drop 100 rpm rather than be bothered by noise. Also be aware your fan behavior will shift seasonally. Your baseline room/case/liquid temp will be different in Winter vs Summer.

No need to worry. You can ignore them or better yet delete them from CUE. Just a waste of space. The CPUID program has trouble with the Asus Embedded Controller and you get a lot of min/max kind of values like 127C or 0C -- the top and bottom of the range -- as well as duplicates. You can see them in HWMonitor as well as it uses the same underling program to fetch the data.

The things saved to the KB are still there and should automatically populate on the new PC once you connect the KB with CUE running. However, those are HW files and they don't carry over into software profiles. Those are the things you create in CUE. You needed to export them from the main menu on your old PC. If you still have it, you can still do it. Data is saved even if the devices are not still connected. These exported profiles can be saved to a flash drive and then re-imported into your new PC.

The H100RGB does have a back door into CUE through a Commander XT. You connect both it and the fans to opposing PWM and rgb sides. However, it’s $50 which means you’re better off getting the Capellix model that has it in the box already. Both cheaper and better control.

A H100 RGB is not a CUE device and should not have a USB cable. Even it was, lack of usb connectivity should not an AIO into a non- functional state and you can’t overheat a water cooler by running the fans too slow for normal tasks. That is a no flow state. Either the pump is not running or the unit does not have power. It looks like that is not a SATA powered model, so make sure that PWM connector from pump is connected to a motherboard header that is set to 100%, “Full Speed”, or any other mode that supplies a constant 12v. Most “AIO Pump” headers are preset to a locked 100% state. CPU fan must be manually set to 100%. If the voltage is too low, the pump may not start. If that does not apply, you don’t get any rpm reading from the motherboard, can’t feel any vibrations, etc., then the pump is not running and you should exchange the unit with the vendor or contact Corsair Support for the same purpose.

The “H100” (in whichever form you have) is not a CUE device. AIO units that are part of the CUE control system have an “i” at the end of their number (H100i Elite Capellix). The H100 RGB was specifically designed to pass controls over to the motherboard.