c-attack

Full clean install AND registry clean? Can you explain the “no color” part? We can see the AIO, QX fans, and CUE link hub are showing in your screenshot. Does this mean the items are missing from the UI in the underlying menu? They are there but lighting effects do not work?

There's a long thread about this in the troubleshooting section. The upgrade to allow the CUE Link controllers to handle up to 24 fans has messed up the enumeration and chaining. You'll need to do a clean install to clear the old data. The directions are below. Make sure you export any valuable profiles so they can be reimported back in later. This does erase all profiles and settings. https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025166712-iCUE-How-to-perform-a-clean-reinstallation-of-iCUE If you want to try, go to Windows Settings> Apps and find Corsair iCUE. Click on the drop down menu at the end of the line and select "modify". Follow the prompts for a repair install. This takes 30 seconds and does not delete data. A couple of users mentioned this worked for them without the full wipe. Other users not affected at all, so it does seem to vary a bit.

They have changed some of the underlying associations with this build. It's not going to go back, so everyone is going to need to move forward sooner rather than later. Better to prepare, export your valuable profiles to make current backups, then clean install if there is an issue. It's not guaranteed you will have a fan count issue and some of us updated without encountering this.

It's 35mm from center to center. If I understand your intent, then any 24mm cap would extend only another 4mm on each side.

Yup, but should happen automatically on first load since the new FW is now public. The only issue with adding many CUE Link hubs is you will use up a lot of USB 2 ports and PCI-e cables. While I suspect you have the PSU and powered usb hub to handle it, I don’t how it will work out in reality. Last generation users ran into problems running 3+ Commanders on separate lines. I don’t know if anyone has tried 4 CUE hubs yet. If you want to be the test case, by all means try and let us know. In your position, I might stop at three using the 3rd for XD5 + GPU(?). You’ll also have the 1000D’s Commander Pro in there. That will handle the case logo, the cpu block with an adapter, and any strips you need. I keep waiting for CUE link strips, but we haven’t seen them yet.

There should be a shipping manifest in the package with the new 140mm fan, but frankly it doesn't matter what it says. You don't need to prove which department at Corsair made the mistake. Just show that one was made and get them to correct it. The Zendesk help email you've been corresponding in may have details. The original RMA request should also have the fans listed. If the shipping manifest shows 2x120 and there is a 140mm inside, a picture is likely sufficient to make your point.

No free lunch on this and that 4 way splitter is just that... 4 unpowered connection ports. It's real purpose is to allow you run multiple independent chains back to the system hub without having to run them through each other. Since your radiators are in side by side pairs, I don't see an advantage. You will need 2 CUE Link Hubs for 32 fans. I theory you could do this with three to avoid the 14 fan brightness clipping, but I think a 10% reduction for going 2 fans over (16 per hub) is worth it and these QX are really bright to begin with. One hub for each 480 radiator pair. 8 to one side and 8 to the other. Pump will need to go into one of these chains. I suppose that's what the 4 way splitter is for. You can run the XD5 back to the splitter on one end rather than being forced from a fan end point to the XD5 to the hub. Very case layout specific as to whether it helps. I can't tell if that GPU is block is CUE link of not.

Unfortunately I am not surprised. Respond again to the original ticket and remind them the RMA is for 2x120. Upload a picture of the wrong 140 fan box. It might not even match the shipping invoice.

You will have to leave the Commander Core that delivers power to the H150i Elite Capellix XT. That's the only way for the pump to get power, even if you don't use the fan ports. The Lighting Node Pro can go, unless you need it for strips or other 3rd party LED devices. 10 QX fans can run from 1 CUE Link Hub.

Go to the connected Link Hub device in CUE and run the setup Wizard again. See if it will detect it through normal means. If it does not, shutdown the PC and flip your PSU off. Hold down the case power button for 10 seconds to drain any residual power. Then flip the PSU back on and start normally. This should trigger all devices to check their connections again. Make sure all fans are selected in the Lighting Effects tab for the chosen pattern. What water cooling device?

The controller that comes with the AIOs is a “Commander Core”. It has a dedicated connection in the end to power the pump. The “Commander XT” is a stand alone fan speed and rgb controller with no AIO power port. It cannot delivery power to the pump.

Forced firmware update? The only other thing we see is sometimes the motherboard rgb software tries to grab control when CUE lets go. This is not common anymore with Asus and you likely can disprove this with a simple shutdown, PSU off-on restart. If the LED sticks during boot, the problem is likely with the module. Probably time to open a ticket with Corsair as it may be a hardware issue.

You probably need to clean out the files at this point and it's likely part of the installation package is corrupt leaving you in limbo. See the directions for a clean install below. Make sure you do the registry clean out. This is where problems tend to linger. This will erase all your profiles and settings, so hopefully you previously backed up any valuable profiles. https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025166712-iCUE-How-to-perform-a-clean-reinstallation-of-iCUE

I don’t think there is any way for us to know on this end. However, installation errors if this type are the most common problem with CUE 5. Something caused it to crash and when that happened the files became corrupted. A bit hard to guess about what it might be, but likely it’s something that also tried to interact with Corsair components or blocked a communication pathway. Most users do not see repeated problems of this type, but if you do turn in debug logging in the CUE settings and then hopefully someone can trace it back to the origin.

Make sure you do a full clean install, especially the registry clean. This certainly appears to be corruption of those files. https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025166712-iCUE-How-to-perform-a-clean-reinstallation-of-iCUE Are you able to uninstall it? Most users with corrupted install files have trouble getting g it out too. You may need to reboot to safe mode to remove it or this instance I would be inclined to use a professional uninstalled like Revo to take care of multiple issues. The free version should do the job.

Apparently not obvious since you don't seem to understand why it's a dual system. No, I tried to explain why it is this way. Of course, in the amount of time it takes to write the post, you could have completed all your duplicates.

Hardware and software functions for Lighting and Assignments have different capabilities. With the aid of system resources, software options are at maximum. When in hardware mode, the individual device must be able to execute the action from its own memory and processor. This varies from device to device and each is coded in CUE to only permit actions that can be completed in hardware mode. They took steps to try and guide users to the correct end path and presumably part of that is preventing a user from attempting to continuously copy a software action to hardware and not understanding why it fails. The libraries do allow you to copy/paste in the respective modes, so at least you only need to create the complex macros once per mode. Most peripheral hardware requires an active write to save the data to the device. Auto saving with macros might be problematic to save as you go creating a lot of writes.

This usually means the install is corrupted. There are two options that work for most people. 1) Reboot to safe mode and uninstall. This option is in the “recovery” section of your Windows settings and requires you to jump through a few menus. See if the Windows apps uninstaller will work from there. Then make sure you do the registry clean out described below. https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/360025166712-iCUE-How-to-perform-a-clean-reinstallation-of-iCUE 2) Use a professional software removal tool like Revo Uninstaller. This will give you elevated permissions and force it out. It should get the underlying files as well, but make sure you check the registry to ensure the files mentioned in the link are gone. Most pro tools like Revo have a free version for basic operations and that should be sufficient. Users often report one method above works and the other does not, with no clear pattern. In your position, I would probably try #2 first. If your CUE is still functional right now, make sure you export any valuable profiles before doing the above if you intend to reinstall. Everything will be deleted.

Presumably this is for a CUE Link AIO you have in your system. That is not a power delivery connection. It’s a tachometer wire only, to satisfy the motherboard’s “CPU boot protection” feature. It won’t let you boot up unless something is connected to cpu fan. That wire reports a pump speed to the bios in order fulfill that obligation. All you’ll need is a usb 2 for communication and another 6 pin pci-e for power — and more CUE Link cables.

The theoretical heat dissipation from a radiator is influenced the by the temperature of the air entering the intake side of the radiator. In simple terms, if you blow 31C air into a radiator, you will make the liquid temp 31C too. As a result, the exhaust air temp from the intake rad will have a negative effect on the other two. It looks like your intake rad in front is last in the chain, so it's liquid temp should be about 2C lower than the other radiator liquid temps and thus cooling still occurs in all three rads. You've set it up the best you can for 1 intake + 2 exhaust. I think the only variation worth trying (and without heavy remodeling) is to flip the front fans to exhaust as well and turn the rear fan around to intake. You'll be heavy on the exhaust side, but it will pull air in from the all the openings. Is it going to substantially change your temps? No. Best case scenario might be a 2-3C shift and nearly all of that will be from the reduction of internal ambient temperature with no radiators dumping their heat into the case. This also may not be ideal if you have the rear of the case backed up to a wall or some other location where the intake air from the rear is warm.

Elite Capellix XT models and the new CUE Link devices (like the RX fans) are from different generations. Only CUE Link products work with the CUE Link hub and only the prior LL, QL, SP/AF/ML-Elite fans work with the Elite Capellix and all other controllers. There is no reason you can't run both controllers and they will both appear in CUE as separate devices with separate chains of fans. However, if you prefer the no wires CUE Link stuff, you should at least take a look at the CUE Link H170i models. https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/cpu-coolers/cw-9061004-ww/icue-link-h170i-rgb-aio-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9061004-ww https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/cpu-coolers/cw-9061009-ww/icue-link-h170i-lcd-liquid-cpu-cooler-cw-9061009-ww

Unfortunately this is a somewhat common issue and a physical problem with the wheel. If you are still in the warranty period for the mouse, start a support ticket with Corsair as a means to replace it. If you are out of warranty, there are quite a few posts and videos that talk about how to clean the scroll wheel.

Yes, it’s normal for that model. The pump rpm displayed is a predicted value for 60 sec based on a 2 sec sample. That specific model rounds it revolution value to the nearest whole number before multiplying by 30. As a result, changes in pump speed always move in 30 rpm chunks — 2100-2100-2130-2100, etc. It only takes little differences like 70.4-70.4-70.5-70.4 revolutions per 2 seconds to create that. This is not the same as a pump with 100-300 rpm shifts per interval. As mentioned above, CUE graphing auto zooms in and makes that inconsequential change look mountainous.

Yes, keep them linked to coolant temp. The cpu is cooled conductively by transferring heat from the lid to the cold plate and in the liquid stream. The rest of the AIO (liquid, radiator, fans) are all waste heat disposal. They dump out the accumulated heat so the cpu temp does not increase beyond its current level, but you can’t stop the cpu from heating up in the first place. Fans do not cool the cpu. Normal liquid temp is a cool case is typically 4-7C above your room temp or the equal to the case internal ambient temp. It can be lower than the air inside. In a normal cpu only test, you might go +5C on a cpu only 200-253W cpu max test. Where you likely see higher coolant temps is when gaming or any extended gpu load. This is not because of increased cpu heat but gpu heat raising the internal temp. Coolant temp is the lowest possible cpu temp with zero volts. Intel cpus will float a few degrees over that. Ryzen idle much higher. +1C to coolant = +1C to cpu temp, so don’t be overly concerned about micro managing the fans. Set a quiet 500-600 rpm for your normal idle temp zone. Start ramping up 3C higher than that. Set a comfortable fan speed around your normal max coolant temp. That’s probably +7-10C and 140 fans starting getting noisy as you pass 1200 rpm. No reason to do much more than that.

Your coolant hit 40C. On these older GT/VTX models that creates an automatic max fan response. There’s nothing special about 40C unless you are testing it on a bench outside a case. Inside the case in an exhaust position, you’re very likely to get there with extended gpu load and rising case temps. Cluck the yellow + bar to make a new custom curve. A graph will appear below. Go down to the bottom and change the “sensor” to H80i GT temp (coolant temp). Then in the lower right corner, choose one of those shape tools. Those are the presets. Choose the quiet one. Now you can see the control points and move them. You also have access to fixed speed which will be an easy way to see if the fan controller is still working. You can relax the top part of the curve so it does not max out at 40C. However, the better question is should it be at 40C at all? As these AIOs reach there end of life, most start to loose fluid speed through the unit. The temp slowly gets worse over time. If you cold boot up in the morning in a 20C room and the liquid temp is already 40C, the AIO is dying. With no load coolant temp should be about the same as the internal case temp — usually 4-7C over your room temp with no additional heat factors.