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  #16  
Old 04-20-2020, 06:13 PM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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It does cool down, so it's not totally blocked/stopped yet. If it was, it would be essentially unusable. A typical 280-360mm radiator can only reduce coolant temp by 1-2C going through the radiator. When you have one "hot tube" and one cool one, that usually indicates a problem since 1-2C surface temp should be imperceptible to human touch.
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  #17  
Old 04-20-2020, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c-attack View Post
It does cool down, so it's not totally blocked/stopped yet. If it was, it would be essentially unusable. A typical 280-360mm radiator can only reduce coolant temp by 1-2C going through the radiator. When you have one "hot tube" and one cool one, that usually indicates a problem since 1-2C surface temp should be imperceptible to human touch.
Hum are you sure about your 1-2 degrees reduction going through the radiator ?
I certainly have a problem but which kind of problem could conduct to have a big difference between the two tubes (if you know, if not, doesn't matter)
A pump problem ?

EDIT : Well, you're absolutely right, it seems that I have a pump problem as it doesn't speeds when water becomes hot... (>40°C) I just made the test

Last edited by tigerblue77; 04-20-2020 at 06:28 PM.
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  #18  
Old 04-20-2020, 06:46 PM
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1-2C per pass through the radiator. So if the coolant goes into the radiator at 32C, it will come out at 30-31C. It's a balancing game of heat in vs heat out. You can start doing the math of Watts/mL of water per second to calculate expected heat increase to the coolant temp, but that gets messy. At X watts you increase the coolant by 1C, less the heat released through the radiator. With the AIO you only get one coolant reading (after the heat pickup) so you only see the hot end. With custom loops you can put sensors on the in/out ports and see exactly where the reductions happen and if one radiator or one fan set does better than another.
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  #19  
Old 04-20-2020, 07:24 PM
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1-2C per pass through the radiator. So if the coolant goes into the radiator at 32C, it will come out at 30-31C. It's a balancing game of heat in vs heat out. You can start doing the math of Watts/mL of water per second to calculate expected heat increase to the coolant temp, but that gets messy. At X watts you increase the coolant by 1C, less the heat released through the radiator. With the AIO you only get one coolant reading (after the heat pickup) so you only see the hot end. With custom loops you can put sensors on the in/out ports and see exactly where the reductions happen and if one radiator or one fan set does better than another.
Hum ! You know so much about cooling ! That's soo cool :)
Okay I'm pretty sure them problem is the pump because on "silence mode" it stays arount 2000 RPM even if I launch a stress mode.

Can you confirm where do I have to plug the Corsair pump pin on my motherboard ? "CPU_FAN" or "W_PUMP" ? Actually it is on "CPU_FAN"

My Asus Motherboard manual say that "W_PUMP" fan pins give about 3V if I remember but some websites advice to use those pins... I'm lossed, maybe the problem is stupid in fact...

I read here

https://linustechtips.com/main/topic...erheating-cpu/

that the pump could "get stuck in a position where the electric motor is not able to start."... damn it... How can I be sure it is running...
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  #20  
Old 04-20-2020, 07:33 PM
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Look at it... I did overclock the CPU to 5,0 Ghz on all cores and cache to 4,7Ghz, I kept voltage to "default"

On the first half of each graph shown on the below screen, I was on "silence" mode for the water pump and on the second half I set it to "extreme" mode (we see it pass from 2000 RPM to 3000 RPM)

https://imgur.com/a/4PD6pSp

And the CPU temp never go above 90°C ! And 38°C for the water :D
I stopped the test after 2/3 minutes just to make the capture but we clearly see that it was working at this moment, the question is why ^^...
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  #21  
Old 04-20-2020, 07:54 PM
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On your H115i (v2), the location of the MB lead does not matter. It can go on any header or none at all. I believe the GTX/v2 series reports 1/2 the pump speed, but the actual power comes from the SATA cable. You can't "throttle it down" by cutting voltage to it like some DC fan. We generally recommend it goes on CPU fan for two reasons. 1) Something has to be on CPU fan to boot, although that can be disabled in the BIOS. 2) CPU is always tied to CPU temperature and was designed for a CPU air cooler. It will react quickly and aggressively to any CPU temp change and has safety measures in place that override your settings. That makes it terrible for standard case fan control. Might as well put the AIO lead that does nothing on there, solve the boot problem, and save the CHA fan header for a chassis fan.

I am sorry. Should have suggested to bump the pump speed as a temporary measure after we determined there is some type of flow problem. Normally and in most any functional cooler, you will get 0-1C difference between the low and high pump speeds. An AIO has short total flow length and the CPU and radiator are not overly restrictive. Since there is not a lot of flow resistance, the pump speed isn't as important. Pump speed or cycle rate is part of the calculation, but the dispersion rate at the radiator and fans is the heavier factor. Faster cycle rate somewhat balances with the amount of time in the radiator channel for dispersion.

However, we did talk about it being possible to be too slow and getting inadequate cycle rate. That was in relation to the slower 1100 rpm pump speed on the Pro series, but what is happening to you is similar. Most likely something is blocking or restricting the flow into one section of the cooler (radiator inlet, CPU outlet, etc). This slows down the flow to the point where the coolant at the CPU block does not leave fast enough and that small section of coolant heats up more than it should. That heat is then passed back to the CPU. If you switch between 2000 and 3000 rpm at the pump and see an immediate coolant drop, something isn't right. This is further evidence you have a flow restriction and need to move toward a replacement. The sudden decrease in CPU temp should match the sudden decrease in coolant temp.

Looks like the Auto voltage is still putting you at 1.43v. That is still too high and what happens to everyone using Auto voltage and running stress tests these days. You likely are looking for something around 1.30v (to start). In the Advanced BIOS, change CPU voltage from Auto to Adaptive. It will create 2 drop down boxes below. Set "additional turbo voltage" to 1.30. This will make the CPU follow the Intel specified voltage curve anytime you are below 4.4 GHz (or whatever the baseline is for 9900K) and then it will apply the 1.30 when you go higher. This keeps it lower at idle and full on when working. However, you may want to postpone any further stress testing until the cooling situation is resolved.
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  #22  
Old 04-21-2020, 08:08 AM
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Okay, thanks, so I keep it on the "CPU_FAN" header.

Don't worry you didn't do anything wrong, my pump was already in "extreme" mode (full speed) since the beginning of this topic and during the tests, I tried to change it only for testing last night and put it back in "extreme" mode as a temporary solution.

In fact I don't see what would block or slow down the flow of the circuit... I wonder if the pump is not just broken (even partially) because sometimes it seems not to turn (cases where I have a big temperature difference between the two hoses) and sometimes it turns but I have the impression that its rotation is not regular (as if a fin was broken or I don't know ...)
Anyway, I'll wait for the answer from the Corsair support and I'll come back to you.

Your explanation seems quite logical, we can see on my previous screenshot that the temperature decreases linearly from the moment I go to 3000 rpm.

Indeed the automatic voltage puts me at 1.43V on average at 5.0Ghz, nevertheless I was happy to see that the CPU did not reach 100°C. Yes this time I stop all overclock until my cooling problem is solved. My goal was simply to test my pump and seeing that it was cooling better last night I overclocked a bit but that was not the main goal.
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  #23  
Old 04-27-2020, 10:24 AM
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Hey, guys,
My RMA (warranty claim) file is being processed by Corsair, I'm waiting patiently.

On the other hand, I'm apparently not the only one to have an end-of-life pump on these watercooling models: https://www.reddit.com/r/Corsair/com...rs_of_service/
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  #24  
Old 05-30-2020, 05:13 AM
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So I got my replacement watercooling from Corsair. As the H115i v2 is no longer manufactured I received a H115i Pro RGB, that's great!

I assembled it the day before yesterday and frankly... It's night and day... It's incredibly quiet even in stress test with CPU overclocked at 5.1 Ghz on all cores and cache overclocked at 4.7 Ghz ! The processor has reached a maximum of 90°C and 39.2°C for the water temperature, compared to a processor temperature of 36°C and 31.3°C in normal/daily use. It's magical and incredibly powerful !

Here are different screenshots taken before, during and after the stress test with the overclocked processor : https://imgur.com/a/Gx8V9p0
You can see that my vCore frequency is about 1.41V (I didn't make any adjustment, it's in "auto") but it looks good to me (c-attack can you confirm ?)

So finally I'm going to keep this Corsair H115i Pro RGB and not switch to an H150i, it's really excellent and meets my needs!
Thanks a lot to c-attack for his great advice here and in private messages, thanks for your time, without you I would never have been sure that my previous watercooling was faulty! But now I can see the difference, for example, the old radiator was always cold even with the processor on load while the new model heats up evenly when my processor is on load, that's perfect !

Good continuation !

Last edited by tigerblue77; 05-30-2020 at 05:16 AM.
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  #25  
Old 05-30-2020, 08:27 AM
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Coolant temp looks good! I still think 1.41v is a lot of voltage, so keep an eye on actual end core temps.
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  #26  
Old 05-30-2020, 08:39 AM
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Coolant temp looks good! I still think 1.41v is a lot of voltage, so keep an eye on actual end core temps.
Yes and the silence whoa... Noise ? What is noise ? Even with fan and pump speed at 100% a baby could sleep next to my PC !
Okay I'll keep an eye on it but as you can see on my previous screenshots (on imgur), it's 1,41V only during stress test, in other uses it's 1.2V to 1.3V as you can see :)

Last edited by tigerblue77; 05-30-2020 at 09:56 AM.
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