solarity

Case: Maximum PSU Length 225mm PSU: Dimensions 150mm x 86mm x 180mm You should be fine.

I think I have run mine much longer than that. I would charge it up fully first, then see how long it goes, till it starts warning you the battery is getting low.

C-Attack is right. I would also like to add it is almost like a Lighting Node Pro with a manual button for when your PC is off to disable lighting as it defaults to HW Mode profile. It also comes with external power supply. It is similar and more refined than the external LNP mod I did a video on a while ago: [ame] [/ame] The only difference in terms of added Software features is the addition of the screen syncing for the LS-100. The strips themselves look pretty cool, though I would honestly prefer the LS-100 strips in my case and use non-diffused LNP strips behind my monitor. The strips can be swapped between the LS-100, LNP, and CoPro.

I don't think Corsair sells a separate extension cable in the parts store. They only are included in the Lighting Node Pro Strip kit and with expansion strip kits IIRC. Unless you want to buy a whole kit, you could buy a non-Corsair custom cable from piratedogtech.com, he carries a lot of Corsair adapters/mods and items that Corsair doesn't not manufacture or sell separately.

Bah I should have read the title ><. I don't see an Australian web store, though they do have a global one: https://www.corsair.com/ww/en/?clear=true You can scroll down to the bottom of the corsair.com and change the store to something closer to your region, if you want to take a look around.

Are you using them "wired via usb" or "wireless"? You could always try to restart your PC or iCUE

I would try to update the firmware first. I am not a console gamer, though doesn't the PS4 use a 3.5mm jack?

Where do you live? There are different store regions and the stock can vary from region to region. You might be checking the US store.

If you have enough filtered intakes, then I wouldn't worry about it. A lot of the times you can use a PCIe slot cover from a different system. Are you using a discrete GPU or using the integrated GPU? In most cases two are removed for a GPU. People seldom use any other slots.

There is a discussion about this on the Hydro-X sub-forum: https://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?t=190186 Officially 360 and 240 is what is recommended. That is also what I personally prefer.

I think the wireless Voids use a pretty standard off the shelf battery that can be sourced with the connector off eBay. I think Zotty or WhiskeyLima has modded them. Oddly enough my 6+ year old Corsair Vengeance H2100 still hold a charge. I had some issues similar to you in OW, though uninstalling/reinstalling the driver seemed to work for me and I haven't had that issue since. The only other issue I have had seems to be with my case's front USB3.0 Type-A. For some odd reason my mic doesn't work with that, though when I plug it into my MB directly or use a Type-C to Type-C in the front, then those work. I think it is from faulty USB 3.0 Type-A wiring on my H500M case.

I currently have a 500D SE w/ a 240 on top and 360 in front. I wouldn't advise a 280MM. I think this is my 4th or 5th custom loop that I have done. This build was one of the easiest that I have done as Corsair is conservative on their radiator capabilities in their cases. My first loop was on a Rosewill case that claimed dual 360mm support, though they exaggerated their capabilities. I also spent a lot of time cursing and thinking. While things can be possible and people have more luck than others, doing so means it might not work for you. Some people like challenges more than others. Either your compromise or build it in the same manner as like usna92 did. As I say this, I am thinking about doing a three separate 120mm rads all rotated 90* to use as a "radiator version of a manifold" and mounting that to the top. I bought a front 360mm for the 570x for this purpose.

Did you have any temp issues before you installed the block? My clamping suggestion was to see if the temps drop if block is not making full contact with the die.

Strange, I just replied to someone on Gigabyte's forum with the exact same name: http://forum.gigabyte.us/thread/5504/fusion-interfering-corsair-icue-software You did a lot of trouble shooting. Could you do me a favor and go to the LNP/CoPro and click Lighting Setup, Channel that your fans are connected to and verify that your fans are set to 6 fans and not 2?

1) Loop order doesn't matter. Set it up int he most efficient way and the way it looks the best. Water absorbs a lot of heat, so the difference in temp isn't big enough to notice a difference. 2) The rule of thumb is the following: -120mm/component -240mm/component OC'ed Additional rad space won't guarantee better performance, it will just give you the option to have similar performance with less noise as you can run your fans at lower fan speeds. The less rad space you have the faster your fans have to run. 3) Length is king when it comes radiators. While having a thicker radiator does help a little, it doesn't benefit nearly as much as a longer yet skinnier radiator. Longer radiators have more surface area facing cooler ambient air. The air warms up as it goes through the radiator, it won't absorb as much heat as it travels through the rad. So two 360mmx30mm rads (side by side, not stacked) will be better than one 360mmx60mm. The transfers of heat is proportional to the difference in temperature. Can't speak for the 5700 XT block, though the configurator might just need to be updated, I hope a Corsair employee pipes in. The guide you posted is interesting as it is a negative pressure system. All fans are exhaust, if you follow that make sure you don't use any filters on the fans.

Make sure you use a proper fitting screw driver as that will reduce the chances of rounding out the screws. When you removed the block was the paste covering the whole die and did the thermal pads have indents from the memory and mosfets? Does clamping block and rear mounting screw location nearest die with fingers reduce temps at all?

I spoke to someone at Corsair. The said that the 2070 FE does work with this block, though there is a small side panel attached to the block that has to removed from the block in order to get it to fit. The FE PCIe power header is on an extender cable due to the stock cooler is longer than the PCB. They heavily discourage the purchase of the FE version of the 2070 due to complexity and how hard it is to take apart of it compared to other board partners like EVGA. Other manufactures have the PCIe power soldered directly to the PCB. https://bjorn3d.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/rtx_2070_FE21.jpg It looks like AIBs can solder the header to the top header location. This board is from a 2070 FE.

DevBiker is correct that is one option. There is no native support for any MB manufacture's software to allow it to sync with iCUE. Anything you see for Aura Sync is 3rd party tool/mod and leverages both Aura's and iCUE's SDK.

Could you provide all your system specs? This shouldn't be happening and haven't noticed anyone mention this problem before. I can ask one of the testers who has that mouse to try to replicate the issue you are seeing. Does the problem occur randomly or is it something like after you reboot or sleep your machine? Does it happen in mid game?

Did you turn it off and on? :p Are you saying it is always the last two LEDs that flicker no matter if you have 1, 2... or 6 strips connected? i.e. on 2 strips only LED 19 and 20 are flickering? Have you tried swapping out strips in different orders?

I would contact Rockitcool's support, I don't know of anyone that has tried this with the XC7 and it might be in their best interest to help you out.

Looks like it could be the wrong stock photos, I don't see the picture you are showing on Corsair's site, though I see it on Newegg and Ebay. Let me ask some people. You should be fine as there would be a pretty big uproar if they put the power connector hole in the wrong spot :)

I did an review, but have to reshoot it as the first couple of minutes have some sound issues. This video is unlisted and will be replaced after I reshoot parts and edit it: [ame] [/ame] HW Labs is the OEM for Corsair and GTS is a little better performer by a small margin. The LS is another name for the XR5.

I have never had any issues with the proper sized inserts based off the inner diameter of the tubing. I have used barrow inserts before and bought one for this run. Granted I haven't used it yet, as I am still waiting on my CPU block. I get about a meter length and cut a 3rd of it off to use the shorter line for shorter runs, instead of having a giant piece of tubing hanging off the end. Also use soapy water.

Did you try updating the firmware?