ampd Posted May 21, 2013 Share Posted May 21, 2013 Rubber washers saved me from RMA my h100i. If you are in doubt, definitely try adding them. My backplate was loose when I installed it but seemed ok after screwing down the plate. However when I ran realtemp my 3770k would idle at 40c+ (ambient 27) and under load would instantly shoot up to 75c and eventually hit around 80. After finding this thread and adding the washers, it now idles at 30c (~5 degrees over ambient temp) and after running prime95 overnight hit a max of 58c. Adding the washers pretty much saved my unit and dropped my temps at least 20c. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidm71 Posted August 21, 2013 Share Posted August 21, 2013 Hi, Just wanted to share my experience installing the h100i and gigabyte ud5h motherboard. There is definitely about 2-3 mm of slack between the backplate and the fastening bolt. Only way to fix it was to buffer the space on the back of the board with four rubber 'anti-vibration' hard drive washers that I had in my toolbox. Also the manual mixes up Amd and Intel mounting bolts. Someone at Corsair better get a clue! Even the online install blogs are vague. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Waspworks Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 I installed a H100i over a i7-4770K on my Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H mobo and found it would not tighten down at all. Nuts were pulled up against the ends of threads and the pump was very easy to move. I never even started the computer as I was not about to risk cooking anything. On initial (test) install I had nearly 2mm of back plate boss protruding from the top of the motherboard face. I was very skeptical that the pump was going to pull down against the CPU but gave the manufacturers the benefit of the doubt. An obvious mistake on my behalf as It wasted my time, and my TIM :mad: .. A pictorial showing the stand-off gaps and how i solved the dilema (with rubber 'O'-rings) is shown below. http://imageshack.us/a/img834/5558/acdd.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img209/3158/dwj4.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img819/3888/dvlf.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img27/4151/cm6m.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img14/9057/r9g6.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img42/9217/8mt4.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img829/7946/0a8m.jpg Having gone through the disappointing necessity of having to do this myself, while Corsair could have designed better, and Corsair should face up to the fact there is a problem, and while the Corsair people around us say "just install it with the loose back plate"+" it's designed that way", I will say that I am now VERY pleased with the MODIFIED product and comfortable with its durability. Sorry for such a damning 1st post, but had to get it off my chest and hopefully help some others in their installation. Greg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
davidm71 Posted August 22, 2013 Share Posted August 22, 2013 I had to do the same. Now it's snug and getting great temps on my 4670k maxing at 53 degrees under prime 95. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pyrotechnv Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 ASUS Sabretooth Z87 motherboard, H100i, Same problem. I've added rubber washers as has been suggested. A little note in the box about this issue would have saved me a ton of time. Until this problem is resolved, Corsair should give their customer a 'heads up'. Jus' sayin'. ;): If you find this thread helpful, post a reply and that will keep it at the top too make it easier on others with the same problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peanutz94 Posted August 23, 2013 Share Posted August 23, 2013 A little note in the box about this issue would have saved me a ton of time. Until this problem is resolved, Corsair should give their customer a 'heads up'. Jus' sayin'. What I don't understand is why nobody wants to blame the MB manufacturer? This only affects a handful of boards that were made with a thinner than usual PCB. Is that really Corsairs fault? Jus sayin...;): If the vast majority of users ran into the same thing this thread would be 100 pages long! Look guys, I know it sounds like a fan-boy response, but has anyone thought about his in any other light? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LennonNZ Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 Check your Manual and make sure you have right offset screws See: http://forum.corsair.com/v3/showthread.php?p=614139 Compared to http://www.corsair.com/us/media/cms/manual/49-000175_rev_AB_H100i_QSG_web.pdf Maybe older H100i's have a wrong manual? (or newer ones). The 2nd one is correct. The 1st one has wrong wording? (but correct pictures) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VIPstudio Posted August 25, 2013 Share Posted August 25, 2013 Can this be done on H110 also? Has anyone try it? To instal washers on backplate. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Patrix87 Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 This post just made me realize that I had some of those rubber washer to muffle the sound of my mechanical keyboard. And they work fine. So thank you Greg.:biggrin: I used to love corsair but lately I've seen a considerable drop in the Quality of there product. Even the Corsair 900D feels cheap and Chinese inside... I hope they fix that SOON. :mad: I installed a H100i over a i7-4770K on my Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H mobo and found it would not tighten down at all. Nuts were pulled up against the ends of threads and the pump was very easy to move. I never even started the computer as I was not about to risk cooking anything. On initial (test) install I had nearly 2mm of back plate boss protruding from the top of the motherboard face. I was very skeptical that the pump was going to pull down against the CPU but gave the manufacturers the benefit of the doubt. An obvious mistake on my behalf as It wasted my time, and my TIM :mad: .. A pictorial showing the stand-off gaps and how i solved the dilema (with rubber 'O'-rings) is shown below. http://imageshack.us/a/img834/5558/acdd.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img209/3158/dwj4.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img819/3888/dvlf.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img27/4151/cm6m.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img14/9057/r9g6.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img42/9217/8mt4.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img829/7946/0a8m.jpg Having gone through the disappointing necessity of having to do this myself, while Corsair could have designed better, and Corsair should face up to the fact there is a problem, and while the Corsair people around us say "just install it with the loose back plate"+" it's designed that way", I will say that I am now VERY pleased with the MODIFIED product and comfortable with its durability. Sorry for such a damning 1st post, but had to get it off my chest and hopefully help some others in their installation. Greg. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted November 5, 2013 Share Posted November 5, 2013 it isnt corsairs fault,its yours;): if you bought a m/b thats thinner than standard m/b then a washer is needed if you do indeed have a standard m/b then the bracket will be a little loose till you mount the water block but its all good,we all tend to rant ever once in a while Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armoredsaint Posted November 16, 2013 Share Posted November 16, 2013 I installed a H100i over a i7-4770K on my Gigabyte Z87X-UD4H mobo and found it would not tighten down at all. Nuts were pulled up against the ends of threads and the pump was very easy to move. I never even started the computer as I was not about to risk cooking anything. On initial (test) install I had nearly 2mm of back plate boss protruding from the top of the motherboard face. I was very skeptical that the pump was going to pull down against the CPU but gave the manufacturers the benefit of the doubt. An obvious mistake on my behalf as It wasted my time, and my TIM :mad: .. A pictorial showing the stand-off gaps and how i solved the dilema (with rubber 'O'-rings) is shown below. http://imageshack.us/a/img834/5558/acdd.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img209/3158/dwj4.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img819/3888/dvlf.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img27/4151/cm6m.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img14/9057/r9g6.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img42/9217/8mt4.jpg http://imageshack.us/a/img829/7946/0a8m.jpg Having gone through the disappointing necessity of having to do this myself, while Corsair could have designed better, and Corsair should face up to the fact there is a problem, and while the Corsair people around us say "just install it with the loose back plate"+" it's designed that way", I will say that I am now VERY pleased with the MODIFIED product and comfortable with its durability. Sorry for such a damning 1st post, but had to get it off my chest and hopefully help some others in their installation. Greg. this is the best explanation! same issues with my H100i and Asus Sabertooth mobo, maybe why my temps were climbing to 45c idle and 100c playng BF4 at 50% load. or maybe a defective pump too? ETA: my Coolermaster Haf-x case only allows me to access the 2 screws on the backplate, the cut-out is too small - so it looks like i have to remove the whole mobo. http://images53.fotki.com/v1520/photos/4/499657/4196635/05406308425401-vi.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oOSlushyOo Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 I ran into the same "issue" a little while back. It is actually not a problem at all. The back plate will not be secured to the motherboard until you mate up the block. The whole assembly essentially "sandwiches" the motherboard/cpu between the two. My back plate was protruding a few mm through the motherboard, but once the block was mounted it was rock solid. It's definitely not ideal, but the system works fine without the use of washers. I have done this on both a Sabertooth Z87 and a Z87-Deluxe, both of which are a little slim for the back plate. I have also tried using rubber washers or O-rings and found that doing so gives the unit some play when mounted...not my cup of tea. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellowbeard Posted November 22, 2013 Share Posted November 22, 2013 I ran into the same "issue" a little while back. It is actually not a problem at all. The back plate will not be secured to the motherboard until you mate up the block. The whole assembly essentially "sandwiches" the motherboard/cpu between the two. My back plate was protruding a few mm through the motherboard, but once the block was mounted it was rock solid. It's definitely not ideal, but the system works fine without the use of washers. I have done this on both a Sabertooth Z87 and a Z87-Deluxe, both of which are a little slim for the back plate. I have also tried using rubber washers or O-rings and found that doing so gives the unit some play when mounted...not my cup of tea. Thank you so much for posting this!!! ::pirate:: There is absolutely no need whatsoever for the back plate to be tight BEFORE the block is mounted. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odellus Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 Thank you so much for posting this!!! ::pirate:: There is absolutely no need whatsoever for the back plate to be tight BEFORE the block is mounted. explain to me how that could possibly be true when i can take my hand and push on the block and drop my temperatures by nearly 12 C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellowbeard Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 explain to me how that could possibly be true when i can take my hand and push on the block and drop my temperatures by nearly 12 C. We've sold a few 100k of these units that use the same mounting hardware. If the mounting mechanism design was faulty, we'd have a few 100k pissed off Intel customers. If you have a problem with your unit and you cannot resolve it, RMA it and we'll replace it. The RMA link is on the left side of any forum page. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted December 13, 2013 Share Posted December 13, 2013 explain to me how that could possibly be true when i can take my hand and push on the block and drop my temperatures by nearly 12 C. if you can press and lower temps,gently try tightening the block to see if temps stay down. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odellus Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 if you can press and lower temps,gently try tightening the block to see if temps stay down. it was as tight as it could possibly be. i just remounted it with some rubber washers like waspworks did and my temperatures are now where they were when i was manually applying pressure to the block. i'm happy now, but this was significantly more effort than should be necessary. hottest core under p95 is 57C and the coolest 49C with a 2500k @ 4.5 GHz 1.3V. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diechel Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 Had same problems with my H100i, dismounted pump and was 3/4 covered with cooling paste. Placed 4 rubber rings under the mounting plate and temps were better! msi z87-g45 gaming Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cavkic Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 I've accually read somewhere on hitechlegion that this is normal, so I just left is loose, seems fine for now... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted December 14, 2013 Share Posted December 14, 2013 I've accually read somewhere on hitechlegion that this is normal, so I just left is loose, seems fine for now... it is normal to be slightly loose,its designed as such to help with block mounting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insomniack Posted December 15, 2013 Share Posted December 15, 2013 A word of warning about using washers or spacers. You run the risk of crushing the PCB or its tracks. The ideal way is to have it slightly loose so there's no pressure on the motherboard, that's why the backplate grommets go through the board and stop the standoffs from screwing down any more. Once you install and screw down the CPU block, it will tighten up and there will be no slack or pressure on the board. Boards vary in thickness, but this should not matter as the thumbscrews and standoffs have more than enough thread to cope with a few mm variance. In saying all this, Corsair should really provide all this information in the manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
odellus Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 it isnt corsairs fault,its yours;): if you bought a m/b thats thinner than standard m/b then a washer is needed if you do indeed have a standard m/b then the bracket will be a little loose till you mount the water block but its all good,we all tend to rant ever once in a while i didn't catch this the first time skimming through this thread, but good god what an absolutely disgusting comment Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WinSomeLoseNone Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 FYI - You do not need to use washers with the H100i backplate. Once the pump block is attached and tightened down the backplate will be fixed in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wytnyt Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 i didn't catch this the first time skimming through this thread, but good god what an absolutely disgusting comment i was being humorously sarcastic,did you not catch the 'wink' sign? my god do people cruise threads thats a month + old where there are subjective negativity so they can rant on? the op understood my post,thats all that matters:roll: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitemare3219 Posted December 16, 2013 Share Posted December 16, 2013 So you're telling me this is normal? And no, the caps on the board aren't the issue. They are besides the block when mounted, not under it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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