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Toxic Envi - 900D, 4930K, R4BE, EKWB, WC

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Now to mount the reservoir on the motherboard tray cover...


I measured at least 3 times to ensure that I was centered in the appropriate area and that everything lined up behind the tray. In this shot I have tape marking the motherboard corners and fill hole for when the tray is removed for drilling.




I used a step drill bit from Home Depot as this bit gradually increases the hole diameter without stressing the acrylic too much. The hole came out clean and perfect! I used a Bitspower pass-through fitting for connecting the top of the reservoir to provide more stability.




Here is the mounted reservoir all ready for fluid.




I screwed on the Primochill Revolver fittings and tested out the four 5mm LED lights to ensure everything is functional. Can't wait to see it with the waterfall effect!



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For the pump I selected the EK D5 X-Top Pump Top w/D5 Vario.




I love how this pump is compact and yet offers increased hydraulic performance (up to 15%) compared to original Laing D5 vario pumps.




The clean design scheme matches perfectly with the other EK water blocks. It is a shame that no one will ever see this pump as it will be on the bottom covered by the mid-plate.




A side shot of the pump. The blue/black/yellow cables will be sleeved before installation.




Here is the pump ready for installation and all wiring sleeved in black MDPC-X material.



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Finally completed installing all 8 fans in push-pull configuration on the upper radiator and mounting it into the case.


This is a view of the assembly from the top, although no one will see this as the top filter covers it completely.




Here is the view from the interior.




The lower radiator assembly was easier since it involved only 4 fans.



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I decided to try out the 240GB ASUS Raidr Express.


RAIDR Express is the world’s first and only PCIe-based SSD that features two BIOS chips and an onboard hardware flip switch, letting you alternate between legacy and UEFI modes.




The card itself is small and the appearance is a sleek red and black.




The card even includes an attractive backplate to cover the PCB card.




Here the card is mounted on the motherboard between the two GTX 780 Ti video cards.



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ASUS recently released the ROG Front Base Dual-Bay Gaming Panel and I will be using this for fan control and one-click overclocking.




Here the unit is mounted in the front panel, along with the NZXT Hue. The bottom empty bay will be closed off with the 900D cover.




I also installed a custom illuminated back plate created by ColdZero. It fills the empty space left when I removed the hard drive bays.




With all of the hard drive bays removed, I decided to mount the SSD drives on the side of the 5.25" bay assembly. First, some holes had to be cut for the cables to pass through.




Both SSD units mounted cleanly and with minimal cables being seen.




To keep a clean appearance, I closed off the back of the 5.25" bay area so that all cabling is covered.




I mounted the motherboard into the case to prepare for wiring and tubing configuration.



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No large Storage HD at all? Good idea with the SSD's (although definitely have to fit Custom SATA Power Cables with 90's).....by completely removing HD cages makes it super easy to install another 360 Rad....more Rads quieter...


Is this a sponsored build??

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Yes, it took me a while to find the correct 90-degree SATA power cables and get them installed correctly.


No, this is not a sponsored build.

a non sponsored build is truly a self work of personal art imop

anyone can receive high end parts and make a great build but when it actually comes out of your pockets it just makes it that more rewarding.along the same line is actually doing all of the work without having others cut the panels,do the painting ect..., to me i couldnt really call it ''my build''

i see you have a good eye for cutting and fitment,,also good color coordination going on in your build...

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So to instal those SSD's on the outside of the5.25" Bays you removed the "retainer clips as well ? So nothing at all in the Bays...? Guess with that cover on the back also means nothing in the Bays...


Yes, the retainer clips were removed. The drive latches are only held on by two small clips on the top and bottom of the latch. It is roughly in the center of the latch. Here are the clips circled in red.




To remove them, simply put a small flat tip screwdriver between in the small gap and twist. This should open the gap enough for you to pull the clip right off. I have all the clips off and in perfect condition.


You can see in this photo that the clips are empty now and still in good condition. The empty clips are circled in red.




The retainer clips are not really necessary for mounting anything in the 5.25" bays. The screws holes located on the 5.25" are used to secure an item in the bays themselves.


I actually have two items in the bays. One is the ASUS ROG Front Base and the other is the NZXT Hue. You can see both of these in the below photo.




The bottom slot will remain empty.


The back plate merely covers the opening so that no cables are visible. All cabling is being routed out the right side of the bays.

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No large Storage HD at all?


I actually have a 4TB NAS that I will be using for long-term storage and backups.


My onboard storage should be plenty for my immediate needs...


240GB RAIDR - OS and programs

360GB SSD #1 - Gaming (Steam)

360GB SSD #2 - Gaming (Origin)

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Ah I see...very nice...so where are you going to store the 4TB Drive? Why I really like this idea is I may get a 3rd 780Ti....I want to upgrade my AX1200 to an AX1500i...which 2.5cm loner. this would mean losing a 240mm Rad below....but with some of your ideas with the Drives I could replace it with a vertically mounted EX 360 Rad.....essentially going to 120*10 ;)


Also....did you bench test the Board...CPU ..RAM etc prior to building...think I would do as I normally do wu=ith these WC'ing set ups and actually install the OS on a Drive while its running "open box"....the first RIVE Board I had came with a faulty RAM Slot and had to RMA.....found that on my Bench ;)

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This past winter I ran CAT 6 network cable throughout the home. I installed 24 network drops throughout the house. The NAS is on my home network and located in the same room. No problem with speed at all. Performs like it is in my computer.


Have not bench tested any components yet. Have had good luck with past builds and not had any failures. Hoping for the same here.

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Here are the power cables before any sleeving is done. These are primarily the 24-pin main, 4-pin CPU, 8-pin CPU, and 4 PCI-E cables.




I am using the MDPC-X toxic green and black sleeving material. I really dislike heatshrink material since it is rather difficult to get them lined up correctly. For this build I decided to try the heatshrinkless method that was developed by LutroO and demonstrated in his videos. This was by far the easiest method to do and rather enjoyable too. It took me easily half the time to finish the 24-pin compared to the traditional heatshrink method.


I am using some of his stealth cable combs to help dress the cables.


Here is a shot of the 8-pin CPU power and 24-pin main power cables.



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^^^^ Its a roll of the dice my friend....I had about 7 straight builds without a hitch until I got to my first RIVE...no poblems other than a dead RAM Slot.;(....would have been a real drag to have the complete Liquid Cooled system put together .especially Mobo Blocks!!....just sayin ;)
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Made some more progress this week.


Reassembled the top filter with the powder coated cover and installed it back on the computer. I love the complementing colors!




Here is another shot of lighted back cover piece with the NVIDIA logo.




Connected the top 8 PWM fans to the PWM splitter that will connect to the motherboard. You can see the reservoir fill port on the back of the motherboard tray.




The ASUS ROG Front Base and NZXT Hue are just waiting to be powered up and used.




The mid-plate shelf is ready and the pass-through ports drilled. I should be installing it this weekend.




Here is the current state of the build.




Close-up of the motherboard area with the sleeving installed. The heatshrink-less method is by far easier and faster than the conventional method. Love the end result!



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I mounted the pump in the bottom compartment. You can just see the non-vibration foam pad I placed between the pump and the case bottom to minimize any pump vibration effects.




For the case bottom I decided to use EK-ZMT tubing since it will be hidden and the bends are difficult. Here is the tubing prior to any installations.




This tubing is very nice and solid. I highly recommend it!


I installed the second 8-way PWM splitter behind the pump. This splitter will be used to connect the lower 6 PWM fans to the motherboard.




I was also able to mount the mid-shelf in place and secure it. Cleanly hides the lower compartment with all the PSU cables and pump.




Here is a shot with the lower side panel closed.




The tubing is completed for tonight! Here is a side shot of the pump with all the tubing connected. The section of tubing in the front left of the shot is a drain tube with shut off valve and stop fitting.




Front shot of lower tubing.




Purchased the Primochill Rigid Acrylic Bending Kit shown below. This kit includes some Acrylic Cleaner, cotton gloves, cleaning cloth and tubing insert.




Was surprised to find that the tubing insert was hollow and not solid.




For accurate bends, I also got the Monsoon Hardline Pro Mandrel Kit - 3/8 x 1/2 (13mm). Now this is a very professional kit with some of the nicest tubing angles I have seen. It includes 45 degree, 90 degree, 180 degree and 360 degrees angles machined out of aluminum. The tubing insert in this kit is solid!



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are you using part flexible tubing and part hard acrylic tubing?


Yes, the lower section (under the mid-plate) will be using flexible tubing since it will never be seen and has such tight maneuvering space.


The upper (visible) section will be done with acrylic tubing and contain Mayhems UV Green liquid.

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Wow! This was my first experience with working on acrylic and it was definitely tedious and demanding. I have done many builds using the flexible tubing and they were a breeze. A typical flexible tubing installation took only about an hour or two and it was done. No mess or confusion.


You must respect the PETG acrylic tubing and take your time if you want the result to come out decent. I spent the past two days measuring and bending the tubes for this build and learned a lot. I purchased eight 36" tubes for this project and ended up only using four of them. I only had a few 'mistakes' and they were short sections, so the waste wasn't all that bad.


Here is some shots of the tools I used for the cutting and bending of the tubing.


The Kawasaki heat gun was a dream to use; so quiet and it heats the material evenly.




I used a dremel to 'fine tune' some edges and smooth out some of the rough edges left after cutting.




For a smoother end, I used some sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood.




To get inside the tubes, I used some good ole' pipe cleaners.




Here is that trusty dremel after a few tubes are completed. You can see some of the mistakes in the background.




Here are some of the fittings used to connect everything. Twenty of the Primochill Revolver fittings and a good assortment of Bitspower compression fittings.




After two days, here is the result. I have a fan ring off and disconnected some wiring and memory during the installation.




Used a handy funnel for the filling process.




Now for the leak testing phase. Only the pump has power applied and it is whisper quiet!




You just cannot have too many paper towels in this phase.




The only leak occurred in the first 30 seconds and it was on the reservoir. The bottom rubber gasket of the glass was not seated fully and a small amount of water leaked. Took about 15 minutes to disassemble and re-seat the gasket. Now fully watertight!




I will let the test continue for another 24 hours to ensure everything is fine. In the past 4 hours there has not been a single leak of any acrylic tubing or their fittings!

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Well, it has been over 15 hours and not a single drop from any fittings or tubing!


I thought it was time to add a little color to the toxic green right side case panel and the front panel.


I used a high quality vinyl applique of the NVIDIA logo to match my theme.


Here the applique is being centered on the panel.




The vinyl backing slides easily off, while the applique remains firm.




Applique centered and ready for the case.




Now for the front panel. Without a small graphic at the bottom it looks too plain.




I created a smaller version to match where the Corsair logo was and centered it appropriately.




Here the magnetic side panel air filters have been re-installed.




Here are some shots of the exterior with the new artwork.









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agreed,acrylic tubing can be a pain,i had a box of mistakes,got all mostly bent and realized i had dark blu and purple mixed in so back to bending i went.,,odd thing ive noticed is most builds ive seen have tons of air bubbles present in the res but when i filled mine i had only like a few that showed up.not sure if thats good or bad...:hmmm:


anyways nice build you got going...

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I have to agree with the majority and have come to dislike the bright red SSD cases. It really detracts from the overall black/green scheme.


I played with a few ideas and came up with one that does not void the manufacturer's warranty but still covers the red appearance.


I created some vinyl decals that completely cover the SSD but are removable if the drive fails. This keeps the warranty intact should I need to replace a faulty unit in the next 3 years.



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