H150i Pro RGB - Push/Pull Question

Hello,

Just a quick question, looking on Corsair's main page, I seen the H150i used with 6 fans.

- From the front it look's to be the fans are in the Push Direction.

What is the other side? Pull?

Here is the image: https://imgur.com/a/0icCLEm

I'm looking to put 6 fans on my radiator and I will have it positioned in the front, just like in the picture above, instead of having it on the top. Which ways would I direct my fans for best cooling performance.

- I was watching videos and people have put the front fans pulling and back fans pulling, however in the image it shows that the front fans are pushing. My case is the Corsair 780T.

Another question: The top fans section of the case, I'm planning on having 120MMx3 ML RGB Fans, I should have them pulling air into the case right?

Many thanks!:biggrin:

Don’t get caught up in the push/pull language trap. Both sets of 3 need to blow the same direction, no matter what that direction is. 99.9% of people will want to bring air through the front (intake) rather than exhaust through that panel. Since you linked a picture of a 470/570, I assume you may be using the same. You definitely want intake for that case.

Thank you for replying, I have taken a picture of my current setup on the radiator.

Here it is: https://imgur.com/a/EAqfw6c

My case is a 780T, so I have my fans pushing right now, so I'll have to put the 3 others fans on the back of the fan in a "pulling" direction right?

Yes, the second set of 3x120 would go on the interior and you would see the "label side" of the fan when they are secured to the radiator. This will serve as an intake air source and that is what I would recommend for the front rail. I think it is possible to top mount a 360, but likely requires full drive removal up top and I have not done it.

The other thing to consider is whether you even need the second set of 120x3. On the 470/570 cases, that front panel is usually the only air intake source and you want to keep air moving through there. On the 780, you should be able to supplement your air intake with a bottom fan. A single 120 or 140 at medium speed likely improves intake air volume more than the doubling up on the restrictive radiator. Of course, if you are after aesthetics or simply want to try push pull go ahead. However, you don't have to and if you need to cut some expense from the project, deleting $100 worth of RGB fans is not insignificant.

Yes, the second set of 3x120 would go on the interior and you would see the "label side" of the fan when they are secured to the radiator. This will serve as an intake air source and that is what I would recommend for the front rail. I think it is possible to top mount a 360, but likely requires full drive removal up top and I have not done it.

 

The other thing to consider is whether you even need the second set of 120x3. On the 470/570 cases, that front panel is usually the only air intake source and you want to keep air moving through there. On the 780, you should be able to supplement your air intake with a bottom fan. A single 120 or 140 at medium speed likely improves intake air volume more than the doubling up on the restrictive radiator. Of course, if you are after aesthetics or simply want to try push pull go ahead. However, you don't have to and if you need to cut some expense from the project, deleting $100 worth of RGB fans is not insignificant.

Thank you for the reply and suggestions, if I do a push from the front and a pull from the back of the radiator then some hot air would blow into the PC case right?

- What if I have it going the other direction? So, a push from the back this time and a pull from the front? Is that not better?

If you were to make the front panel an exhaust port, where then does your intake air come from? The rear slot is usually a bad choice since it is right above the GPU and its prime function to get the GPU waste heat out of the case. That leaves you with top/bottom intake, front/rear exhaust as the only real possibility. While it would not overheat, these opposing direction airflow set-ups are a bit unpredictable and not super efficient. I am running a "reverse flow" set-up with adjacent directional placement in a Carbide 740 right now. The front/top panels are exhaust (280mm), then there are 2x140 and 1x140 rear for intake. The GPU in this system in on a full water block, so not much GPU waste heat coming off the card itself. To my surprise, my overall case temperatures have increased compared to my prior traditional front/bottom intake, top/rear exhaust where the GPU and CPU radiators were top (280) and rear (120 partial water block). Most cases were designed for a front to top/rear flow pattern. Going against that may lead to some unexpected results. The 740 is about as square as you can get and I still have some minor hot zones (relatively speaking) to deal with.

On a 8700K, your coolant delta on the H150i is going to be about 5-6C for normal loads with medium fan speeds. That means the air coming off the radiator will be 5-6C warmer than it otherwise would be. However, that does not automatically mean the case temp jumps +6C and that air can be routed out elsewhere. It will not make your GPU 6C warmer either. For comparison, right before putting in the new loop in this system, I ran the H115i Pro as front intake. I normally would not do this and I like radiators to exhaust heat directly out of the case, when possible. However, there were no adverse effects. First, my coolant temp dropped about 2C because the front panel area was 2C cooler than the top of the case -- the warmest part. I had additional bottom fans to supplement intake air and most of the CPU waste heat of the radiator goes straight out the top, not back to the GPU. I didn't quite like the aesthetic balance with the radiator in front and a large empty space up top, but I could have run this way indefinitely with no loss (and possibly a small gain) in performance. It is possible you might also benefit in this configuration. With fully open and non-radiator restricted top and rear fans, you can very effectively vent your GPU heat. The GPU is by far the most thermally dominant piece of hardware you have. More effective back end exhaust capability means theoretically less retained GPU heat. The case may be cooler.

If you were to make the front panel an exhaust port, where then does your intake air come from? The rear slot is usually a bad choice since it is right above the GPU and its prime function to get the GPU waste heat out of the case. That leaves you with top/bottom intake, front/rear exhaust as the only real possibility. While it would not overheat, these opposing direction airflow set-ups are a bit unpredictable and not super efficient. I am running a "reverse flow" set-up with adjacent directional placement in a Carbide 740 right now. The front/top panels are exhaust (280mm), then there are 2x140 and 1x140 rear for intake. The GPU in this system in on a full water block, so not much GPU waste heat coming off the card itself. To my surprise, my overall case temperatures have increased compared to my prior traditional front/bottom intake, top/rear exhaust where the GPU and CPU radiators were top (280) and rear (120 partial water block). Most cases were designed for a front to top/rear flow pattern. Going against that may lead to some unexpected results. The 740 is about as square as you can get and I still have some minor hot zones (relatively speaking) to deal with.

 

On a 8700K, your coolant delta on the H150i is going to be about 5-6C for normal loads with medium fan speeds. That means the air coming off the radiator will be 5-6C warmer than it otherwise would be. However, that does not automatically mean the case temp jumps +6C and that air can be routed out elsewhere. It will not make your GPU 6C warmer either. For comparison, right before putting in the new loop in this system, I ran the H115i Pro as front intake. I normally would not do this and I like radiators to exhaust heat directly out of the case, when possible. However, there were no adverse effects. First, my coolant temp dropped about 2C because the front panel area was 2C cooler than the top of the case -- the warmest part. I had additional bottom fans to supplement intake air and most of the CPU waste heat of the radiator goes straight out the top, not back to the GPU. I didn't quite like the aesthetic balance with the radiator in front and a large empty space up top, but I could have run this way indefinitely with no loss (and possibly a small gain) in performance. It is possible you might also benefit in this configuration. With fully open and non-radiator restricted top and rear fans, you can very effectively vent your GPU heat. The GPU is by far the most thermally dominant piece of hardware you have. More effective back end exhaust capability means theoretically less retained GPU heat. The case may be cooler.

Thank you for your reply!

[EDITED] - Since I switched the radiator around.

- Okay, so I'm editing this post and removed all the other text since it won't be relevant.

- I have now moved the radiator to the top panel instead of the front, since I had a think and after looking at that 780T flow diagram it made sense to have the intake from the front.

- Now that I have my radiator on top, which ways should I have the fans? I'm guessing the bottom fans will be pushing air in and the top fans will be either pushing or pulling, I'm not sure, what do you think?

- Here is a picture of my case with the front, top, rear and bottom: https://imgur.com/a/TOc80KH

What I'm thinking of having is:

- 120x3 ML fans on the front for intake since 120x3 is better than 140x2 right? 280 < 360

- At the top I will have 6 fans on the radiator, the bottom will be pushing air out so as the exhaust and the top fans I'm not sure which is better, I'm thinking pulling.

- The rear I will just replace it with an ML 140 fan for faster speeds and to be able to control it.

- The bottom is optional, however I can fit 2x120 fans in there, assuming I have 2 fans there, I would be pushing air into the case from the bottom for extra cool air to support the front right?

What do you think?

Here are the fans possibilities for my case:

Front 3 x 120 mm or 2 x 140 mm

Top 3 x 120 mm or 2 x 140 mm

Rear 1 x 120 mm or 1 x 140 mm

Bottom 2 x 120 mm

Airflow picture for the 780T: https://imgur.com/a/4Fxfvb5

In a push/pull scenario, the "Push" fans are the radiator intake and blow air into the radiator. The "Pull" fans are the radiator exhaust and blow air away from the radiator. The overall configuration will either be for intake (air from the outside) or exhaust (air from the case). Both sets of fans should be blowing air in the same direction.

If the radiator is top mounted, you typically want to have it configured as exhaust. The only thing to be aware of is that the heat from the GPU will affect your radiator temperature. So you want to make sure that you have a good exhaust flow - I've found this to be more important in managing temperatures.

In a push/pull scenario, the "Push" fans are the radiator intake and blow air into the radiator. The "Pull" fans are the radiator exhaust and blow air away from the radiator. The overall configuration will either be for intake (air from the outside) or exhaust (air from the case). Both sets of fans should be blowing air in the same direction.

 

If the radiator is top mounted, you typically want to have it configured as exhaust. The only thing to be aware of is that the heat from the GPU will affect your radiator temperature. So you want to make sure that you have a good exhaust flow - I've found this to be more important in managing temperatures.

Hey, thank you for taking the time to reply here!

That's what I will have, I will have the radiator on the top and have it as an exhaust with a push/pull rotation on it.

I tried having the radiator at the front but the temperatures wen't up.

Checking out this airflow picture for the 780T: https://imgur.com/a/4Fxfvb5 it makes sense to have the radiator at the top, thing is I hope it won't fall :bigeyes:

Is there any point in having 2 fans at the bottom of the case? As an intake.

I am completely fine with the radiator on top and that would likely be my choice when working with the 780T. In that configuration, I would want the radiator fans to exhaust their air up and out of the case. That means the label side of the fan is pointing up. In your picture above, they are mounted correctly for that orientation.

I also think the top mount makes push-pull a lot less useful, but you certainly still can if interested. However, I would give yourself some time to monitor the coolant temperatures with the single 3x120 set of fans before jumping in for 3 more. It may not be worth the expense.

I like 2x140 on the front. Yes, you still can use the bottom 2x140 to supplement as well. You may prefer 4x140 running a tame 500-600 rpm to get you the intake air you need instead of 2x140 front and 800-900 rpm when under GPU load. The only reason not to use them if if the case sits on a carpet floor. That would bring a definite measure of carpet fibers into the case when used without a filter.

I am completely fine with the radiator on top and that would likely be my choice when working with the 780T. In that configuration, I would want the radiator fans to exhaust their air up and out of the case. That means the label side of the fan is pointing up. In your picture above, they are mounted correctly for that orientation.

 

I also think the top mount makes push-pull a lot less useful, but you certainly still can if interested. However, I would give yourself some time to monitor the coolant temperatures with the single 3x120 set of fans before jumping in for 3 more. It may not be worth the expense.

 

I like 2x140 on the front. Yes, you still can use the bottom 2x140 to supplement as well. You may prefer 4x140 running a tame 500-600 rpm to get you the intake air you need instead of 2x140 front and 800-900 rpm when under GPU load. The only reason not to use them if if the case sits on a carpet floor. That would bring a definite measure of carpet fibers into the case when used without a filter.

Hey again c-attack!

Yeah, I will have the radiator at the top and will monitor the temperature, I seen some vidoes where people have the same position as me but with a push/pull configuration and it brings down their temperatures by 10 degrees which I think is a lot.

For the front panel, why not have the 120x3 fans? Are the 140x2 better?

Also, I'm not able to put 2x140 fans at the bottom, the case only supports 120x2 fans.

Yes, my case sits on carpet but the case also has a filter.

Part A - Push/Pull - No one is bringing down their temps by 10C with push pull. I am also running a 8700K clocked at 5.0GHz/1.30v. My typical maximum coolant temp change under load is about 6C. Stress testing with Intel Burn Test, AIDA or anything else also creates a max coolant temp of +6C. The most I could possible reduce my end CPU temps with any fans at any speed is 6C. That's not really possible and I would expect a 1-2C reduction. The push-pull is more important when it is your only intake supply. Since yours will be exhaust, you don't have to funnel all the air in the case through that opening. Your back 140mm@900 rpm will remove almost as much air as the 3x120@1000 rpm. Push-pull won't change that, but does let you decrease the speed and still get the same cooling. On a 360mm top mount, there are not a lot of gains to be had.

Part B - Mathematically 3x120mm will outpace 2x140 in terms of total air intake volume at higher speeds. Does that mean you need it? Probably not. If you like the look of 3x120 top and 3x120 front, by all means do it. I generally prefer 140mm fans over the slightly buzzier 120s, but you are going to have 120 top so it may not matter as much. I have done this test many times back and forth on my 540 cases. For that particular model, I do prefer 3x120. It is a natural fit with no flanges blocking the fans and 3x120 gives better direct cooling for hardware in the short reach of a Carbide 540. For a 780T, the 2x140 is a natural fit with no obstructions. The longer front means direct airflow does not have much meaning and you can't cool your GPU with the front fans directly. For me, that means aesthetics the only thing to consider. 4x140 intake is a lot of aiflow and more than you need. So is 2x140 + 3x120. You will not need to run those fans hard.

The other thing to start considering is how you will hook up all these RGB fans. If you buy 3 ML120 RGB for the H150i, what will you do with the rest of the case? The fan hubs can accommodate 6 RGB fans, so the max count may come into play on the front decision. You may not want/need RGB fans for the bottom. You probably do want them for the front and rear. 3 up top, 2x140 front, 1x140 rear is a full lighting hub. Of course you can add another and take 6 fans more, but you likely want to plan for that and need a place to stick it. If you were going to go 6 RGB on the cooler, you will need another hub for the rest of the case anyway. Take a look at the FAQ in DevBiker's signature. There are a lot of little tricks and requirements when purchasing to make sure you get what you need.

Part A - Push/Pull - No one is bringing down their temps by 10C with push pull. I am also running a 8700K clocked at 5.0GHz/1.30v. My typical maximum coolant temp change under load is about 6C. Stress testing with Intel Burn Test, AIDA or anything else also creates a max coolant temp of +6C. The most I could possible reduce my end CPU temps with any fans at any speed is 6C. That's not really possible and I would expect a 1-2C reduction. The push-pull is more important when it is your only intake supply. Since yours will be exhaust, you don't have to funnel all the air in the case through that opening. Your back 140mm@900 rpm will remove almost as much air as the 3x120@1000 rpm. Push-pull won't change that, but does let you decrease the speed and still get the same cooling. On a 360mm top mount, there are not a lot of gains to be had.

 

Part B - Mathematically 3x120mm will outpace 2x140 in terms of total air intake volume at higher speeds. Does that mean you need it? Probably not. If you like the look of 3x120 top and 3x120 front, by all means do it. I generally prefer 140mm fans over the slightly buzzier 120s, but you are going to have 120 top so it may not matter as much. I have done this test many times back and forth on my 540 cases. For that particular model, I do prefer 3x120. It is a natural fit with no flanges blocking the fans and 3x120 gives better direct cooling for hardware in the short reach of a Carbide 540. For a 780T, the 2x140 is a natural fit with no obstructions. The longer front means direct airflow does not have much meaning and you can't cool your GPU with the front fans directly. For me, that means aesthetics the only thing to consider. 4x140 intake is a lot of aiflow and more than you need. So is 2x140 + 3x120. You will not need to run those fans hard.

 

The other thing to start considering is how you will hook up all these RGB fans. If you buy 3 ML120 RGB for the H150i, what will you do with the rest of the case? The fan hubs can accommodate 6 RGB fans, so the max count may come into play on the front decision. You may not want/need RGB fans for the bottom. You probably do want them for the front and rear. 3 up top, 2x140 front, 1x140 rear is a full lighting hub. Of course you can add another and take 6 fans more, but you likely want to plan for that and need a place to stick it. If you were going to go 6 RGB on the cooler, you will need another hub for the rest of the case anyway. Take a look at the FAQ in DevBiker's signature. There are a lot of little tricks and requirements when purchasing to make sure you get what you need.

Part A: After doing some more research, I have seen people mention that a push/pull configuration will decrease the temperatures by 1-2 degrees Celsius.

However here is a video where it decreases a guy’s temperatures by 10, which is why earlier on I mentioned it can decrease the temperatures by 10 degrees: [ame]

Part B: You’re right about the 140x2 I suppose they are better for my case since they are the natural fit so I will go with them, each case I’d imagine has its own natural fit configuration.

About connecting all the RGB fans, the commander pro and an extra fan controller that comes with the 3x120 fans will do the job, about being limited on USB 2.0 ports, I have an extender for that where you can use 3 USB 2.0 ports at a time.

I have also read the Cooling FAQ and there were a lot of useful information on it and it does state that a push/pull is would be ideal for running fans at slower speeds with the same performance which makes it quieter.

OK, I see where this is coming from. He takes no measure of coolant temp or radiator exhaust temp, the value of which is the actual benefit or running fan X. He also makes no mention of fan speeds, which may also have an impact, particularly if a fixed rate was not set prior to the test. However, rather than pick apart what is probably a well meaning video, the really simple answer is he is using somewhat inappropriate radiator fans. Look at all those spindly, thin blades! That thing is an airflow fan, a bit like an AF120/140. To be clear, you can use any fan on a radiator and it will work, but a 15 blade airflow fan is going to suffer quite a bit. Doubling up on a weak static pressure fan will help, especially at lower speeds. This was a pretty popular thing to do with AF120/140s. That iconic Corsair ring design was really popular, but Corsair (to their eternal shame) never made a more static pressure orientated ring design fan. A lot of people would use AF rings for the look, then double up to offset the inefficiency. That's fine. However, you will not see the same gains when doubling up with more efficient fans, like the ML series.

Keep in mind airflow volume is not cumulative between fans. Two 40 cfm fans working in series still move 40 cfm, not 80. However, static pressure does stack so this can turn a somewhat marginal radiator fan into a better performer. Still, understand what static pressure really is --- the amount of negative pressure it takes to make a fan at XXX speed come to a complete stop. It is NOT the measure of how much airflow you can put through a radiator (of whatever density) at some speed. Static pressure is speed dependent. You must equalize the rpm to make a comparison, even if the real P-Q curve may not be strictly linear. More simply, a fan with a pressure rating of 3.0 mm H20 at 1500 rpm is not better than one with a 2.4 mm rating at 1200. They would likely be exactly the same at like speeds.

That is probably making it more complicated than necessary. Assuming everything is factual, he probably gets a 10C drop for two big reasons: 1) weak fan choice; 2) High TDP CPU. The cooler's job is to dissipate heat, usually measured in watts. So an 8-10-12-16 core CPU will have a far more dramatic affect in coolant temp (and thus more reduction is possible) than when using a highly efficient 95 TDP 8700K. Real world testing on my slightly smaller 280mm H115i PRO puts the normal coolant delta at +6C with a very high overclock. You may only be +5C on a H150i. You only have 5C to possible reduce anything and I guarantee you cannot reduce it more than about 2C before you run into other limitations, like local ambient temperature.

If you want to put two rows of RGB fans on the top so you have light below and above the 780T, great - do it. Just make sure you are doing it for aesthetic or design reasons. it will not be necessary from a performance standpoint.

OK, I see where this is coming from. He takes no measure of coolant temp or radiator exhaust temp, the value of which is the actual benefit or running fan X. He also makes no mention of fan speeds, which may also have an impact, particularly if a fixed rate was not set prior to the test. However, rather than pick apart what is probably a well meaning video, the really simple answer is he is using somewhat inappropriate radiator fans. Look at all those spindly, thin blades! That thing is an airflow fan, a bit like an AF120/140. To be clear, you can use any fan on a radiator and it will work, but a 15 blade airflow fan is going to suffer quite a bit. Doubling up on a weak static pressure fan will help, especially at lower speeds. This was a pretty popular thing to do with AF120/140s. That iconic Corsair ring design was really popular, but Corsair (to their eternal shame) never made a more static pressure orientated ring design fan. A lot of people would use AF rings for the look, then double up to offset the inefficiency. That's fine. However, you will not see the same gains when doubling up with more efficient fans, like the ML series.

 

Keep in mind airflow volume is not cumulative between fans. Two 40 cfm fans working in series still move 40 cfm, not 80. However, static pressure does stack so this can turn a somewhat marginal radiator fan into a better performer. Still, understand what static pressure really is --- the amount of negative pressure it takes to make a fan at XXX speed come to a complete stop. It is NOT the measure of how much airflow you can put through a radiator (of whatever density) at some speed. Static pressure is speed dependent. You must equalize the rpm to make a comparison, even if the real P-Q curve may not be strictly linear. More simply, a fan with a pressure rating of 3.0 mm H20 at 1500 rpm is not better than one with a 2.4 mm rating at 1200. They would likely be exactly the same at like speeds.

 

That is probably making it more complicated than necessary. Assuming everything is factual, he probably gets a 10C drop for two big reasons: 1) weak fan choice; 2) High TDP CPU. The cooler's job is to dissipate heat, usually measured in watts. So an 8-10-12-16 core CPU will have a far more dramatic affect in coolant temp (and thus more reduction is possible) than when using a highly efficient 95 TDP 8700K. Real world testing on my slightly smaller 280mm H115i PRO puts the normal coolant delta at +6C with a very high overclock. You may only be +5C on a H150i. You only have 5C to possible reduce anything and I guarantee you cannot reduce it more than about 2C before you run into other limitations, like local ambient temperature.

 

If you want to put two rows of RGB fans on the top so you have light below and above the 780T, great - do it. Just make sure you are doing it for aesthetic or design reasons. it will not be necessary from a performance standpoint.

Awesome information about the fans c-attack, thank you for that, you seem to know a lot about this, thank you for your on-going help!

So what I understand is if I use 6 fans on my radiator at the top, I will basically reduce the temperatures by 2 degrees or less right? So a push/pull configuration is not really needed, a push from the bottom of the radiator while the radiator face up is ideal?

The reason I'm going for the RGB fans are for design and a bit of performance, the fans that came with the i150H are basically the same as the RGB ML fans, they are just not RGB and both hit max speed of 1600RPM. Also the RGB ML Pro fans are good performers no? I read reviews in which to get and it was either the LL or ML, so design vs performance basically.

Do I connect my RGB fans to the Liquid Cooler's connectors? Or the Commander Pro? I read the FAQ but didn't really understand, connecting the fans to the liquid cooler will change the temperature's automatically based on the radiator right? With the commander pro I will have to specifically state the fans speed right?

My ambient temperature is not too bad, I have an air purifier near the case for some cold air, I would need to monitor thew ambient temperature though.

However, about my case the 780T, the airflow is good on it right? You seen the diagram, it's a big case so air moves around a lot.

So what I understand is if I use 6 fans on my radiator at the top, I will basically reduce the temperatures by 2 degrees or less right? So a push/pull configuration is not really needed, a push from the bottom of the radiator while the radiator face up is ideal?

That is my opinion. Since you will only have a coolant delta of 5-6C, it is really hard to take a big chunk out of that. So then you get into weird theoretical comparisons, like what makes less noise: 6xML120@800 or 3xML120@1100 rpm? It is really a nit-picky, individualized assessment.

One way to approach this is to pick 3x120 of whatever RGB fan interests you. You can then stack them with the ML120 Quiet that come with the cooler. If the results are pleasing, great. If not overly beneficial, then you can directly replace the radiator fans for the RGB version or send them to the front rail for intake.

That is my opinion. Since you will only have a coolant delta of 5-6C, it is really hard to take a big chunk out of that. So then you get into weird theoretical comparisons, like what makes less noise: 6xML120@800 or 3xML120@1100 rpm? It is really a nit-picky, individualized assessment.

 

One way to approach this is to pick 3x120 of whatever RGB fan interests you. You can then stack them with the ML120 Quiet that come with the cooler. If the results are pleasing, great. If not overly beneficial, then you can directly replace the radiator fans for the RGB version or send them to the front rail for intake.

I will wait for the fans to arrive and experiment, thank you once again! :biggrin:

Here is a great article that goes into details about push/pull

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/

I find for AIO I prefer exhaust setup as it takes the heat out o the case and this allows for cooler air for the GPU. For my custom loop I have 2x360mm rads and a cpu and gpu. Both rads are intake. If my GPU was air cooled I would do exhaust.

IMHO most of us are gamers and the GPU is usually the limiting factor, having a cooler GPU means less throttling and higher FPS and more boost.

The biggest advantage for AIOs is controlling the CPU heat for your GPU. You can't do this as well with an air cooler.

Lastly length is the most important factor for a radiator. IMHO water channels and FPI are next, last is thickness.

Here is a great article that goes into details about push/pull

 

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/20/pushpull-radiator-setups-learned-stop-worry-love-fans-less-noise/

 

I find for AIO I prefer exhaust setup as it takes the heat out o the case and this allows for cooler air for the GPU. For my custom loop I have 2x360mm rads and a cpu and gpu. Both rads are intake. If my GPU was air cooled I would do exhaust.

 

IMHO most of us are gamers and the GPU is usually the limitin factor, having a cooler GPU means less throttling and higher FPS and more boost.

 

The biggest advantage for AIOs is controlling the CPU heat for your GPU. You can't do this as well with an air cooler.

Awesome information solarity, I will have a read along side mess around with various setups to check different temperatures! :biggrin:

Awesome information solarity, I will have a read along side mess around with various setups to check different temperatures! :biggrin:

tl;dr Push/pull benefit all rads, though it benefits the thicker ones the best. You have a slimmer rad. How much of an improvement of push/pull over one fan will vary. The biggest advantage is sound reduction, you can run two slower and get similar peformance as a single faster fan with less noise.

tl;dr Push/pull benefit all rads, though it benefits the thicker ones the best. You have a slimmer rad. How much of an improvement of push/pull over one fan will vary. The biggest advantage is sound reduction, you can run two slower and get similar peformance as a single faster fan with less noise.

Yeah, it makes sense, if I have 6 fans on the radiator I can run them at a slower speed than having 3 fans, the ML fans are pretty quiet though, even at 1600RPM I can barely hear anything coming from them.