jonnyguru

Truth be told, a lot of what's in the ATX 3.0 other than the power connector was in the previous spec. All of Corsair's Gold and up meet the requirements save the connector. And even then, the connector isn't required. You can just include a cable that goes from the PSU to a 12VHPWR connector and Intel will bless you "ATX 3.0".

I don't know why we put an ML fan in the RMx.

Why are you flipping the switch off all the time? Should probably only do that if you plan to move the PC or work on it.

Using three separate PCIe cables with a 3070 Ti? Seems a bit extreme, doesn't it?

Yes. It's called a hysteresis. The fan drops down to the lowest RPM, but doesn't shut off. It does this to make sure all heat is evacuated so the PSU fan doesn't "pulsate" if the load or temperature are on the precipice of the fan turning back on again.

No.. 150W is not a cable spec. It's a spec for the card. PCIe cables are capable of much higher wattages. Typically at least 2x the power. The “weak link” in a cable is the terminal and not the wire gauge. The most commonly used 18g Mini-Fit terminals support 9A each. Some better PSUs use 16g HCS (High Current System) which supports 13A each terminal. This results in a 432W limitation for typical 8-pin Mini-Fit connector 18g terminals if all eight terminals on the PSU are populated, and 624W for 8-pin connectors with 16g HCS terminals if all eight terminals are populated. If only three terminals of either row are populated, then your limitation is 324W and 468W respectively. Therefore, PSUs that use standard mini-fit terminals with 18g wire for their PCIe pigtail cables are not recommended for 450W+ cards.

PCIe cables shouldn't be an issue. AX1200i is the same as all of the other current Corsair PSUs and have the same Type3/Type4 pinout. The only outlier is the 24-pin because it's Type 3.

We tried to make the matrix as easy to understand as possible. You have an HXi. Under "All HXi" (it hasn't been updated for the one that launched this month) it says "Type 3 - SATA/PATA". Above the table it says, "The only difference between Type 3 and Type 4 cables is the pinout of the 24-pin ATX cable; all other cables (SATA, PCIe, etc) are the same." That means for SATA and PATA, you would use Type 3. But since Type 3 and Type 4 are the same, you can use either.

Required? No. They provide an adapter with three 8-pins because you're adapting from existing, full length cables of unknown wire gauge and quality. There's a difference between that and using a complete cable from PSU to GPU and that. If you have a Corsair PSU and you use a Corsair 12-pin cable, then you're fine using just two 8-pin Type 4 connectors on the PSU side.

When it's only burnt at the PSU, you can usually blame the cables, but when it burns at the GPU and the PSU, there's something else afoot. What country is this installed in? What is the temperature in the room that this is installed in? Why is there so much dirt all over everything? PSU has dirt. GPU has dirt. Dirt is an insulator, so that's not a good thing to see.

Yes! In fact, we just put the following mandate in all of our PSU PRDs because of the issues with cracked MLCCs: "MLCC’s located < 2mm from PCB edge or < 3mm from PCB screw hole must be of soft termination type. CT and Control Loop circuits must use NPO MLCCs to avoid thermal drift."

LOL! "Edgy". 😄 I don't see the point of your first and only post so far to be so aggro. Also, put yourself in the shoes of whomever you're addressing. "I would not look twice at Corsair after buying this PSU." Well shucks. Looks like we already lost him and any incentive to help him. 😉 Ok... enough of that. All joking aside. I thought that the reason for the failures was already revealed, but I could be mistaken. Maybe it just wasn't here in this forum or it got lost in our old Vb forums. EDIT: It actually IS discussed above! I guess you didn't read the whole thread. The suspect component was (is?) an MLCC on the modular interface that cracks from cable insertion/removal and heat cycles. Can't recall which MLCC it was because it's been a very long time and it would take a lot of digging to find it again. You could easily pull the PCB out and look at it under a magnifying glass, though. Or just replace them all. It's unfortunate and recently I've found that cracked MLCCs are not an uncommon failure mode for any PSU.

Hello. How do you have the PCIe cables going from the PSU to the 2x 2080 Ti's? You should have four separate cables, each with two connectors on them. If you were to use only one connector from each cable, rather than two, does the problem change?

That's a REALLY OLD PSU. Are you sure you want to use it? But as stated earlier: When you have THREE 8-pin connectors, you can use one pig tail on two of those connectors. The GPU doesn't consume THAT MUCH power.

No motherboard "requires" two 8-pin EPS12V connectors unless you're overclocking with LN2. And since you're using a 10 year old PSU, I don't think you're overclocking with LN2. 😉

50°C is the ambient operating temperature. And you just explained why it ran cooler in the old case. In the old case, it was fan up, so heat would rise away from the PSU's PCB. Even though cases tend to have shrouds these days, I never buy one without ventilation. And... I run the PSU with the fan pointing up. Fan down creates two phenomena that's I'm not easy with. 1. heat rising into the PCB. and 2. lack of air flow. You have filters that fill with dust and then there's no air intake.

Does it only do it on a cold boot? In other words, if you shut down from within Windows, don't turn off the PSU from the switch on the back, and then turn it back on with the case power button, does it still do this?

That's not the PSU if we're talking about you pushing the button on the front of the case. The two pins on the power button go to the motherboard and then the motherboard tells the PSU to turn on. For some reason, the motherboard is not holding onto that power on signal. Maybe try updating your BIOS? Could be a known issue with whatever motherboard you're using.

How is the PSU's position, ventilation, etc. different in the 1000D vs. the "old case". What was the "old case"?

Actually, there are some cheap ones out there that only do high line voltage. As I said in my previous post:

Weird. So what are you doing, exactly? Running on UPS power and turning the PSU on or is the PC already on and you unplugged the UPS from the wall?

You shouldn't be hearing it from 2 meters away, that's for sure. Might be defective.

Nah. An RMx should work fine with a cheaper standby UPS. Have you tried the "pull the plug while something is on the UPS" test with any other hardware, or just the PC?

Please list your components.

Dead motherboard?