LeDoyen

It's an X3D..
they run hotter due to the Vcache stacked on top. It's common to all X3D CPUs to be consistently warmer, and that throws us off when we're used to conventional CPU temperatures.
 

you got that correct. the CPU cable goes to the EPS12v connector of the motherboard.
you would soon realize if you force a PCIE connector in there. it is not keyed the same so you'd have to jam it in, and it would trigger the PSU short curcuit protection since the pinouts are different between the two. 
CPU = EPS12v
PCIE = graphics card only

the card has a power draw of 290W by default so, without overclock it would only need 2 cables. It's fine to use two cables with one pigtail yes. I wonder what they were thinking 😛 my 3090 (370W) only uses two connectors.

it's normal it has 2 wires.
Technically it has 4, but the ground and +12V are on the other power cable. the one going to the commander has the control wires : speed reading and PWM control.
So technically you need to connect that connector to the commander core XT, then set a fan curve on that port (controlled by water temperature sensor usually) to set the speeds you want, as you would do with fans.

the fan never spins, at least you know that's apparently normal. All it does is twitch on startup when the PSU checks if it's not locked up.
Now if you can't get any voltage when only plugging the motherboard 24 pin cable and shorting the pins, then there's an issue. it should give power.
But make sure no other cable is connected when you do that test. If you have a short somewhere in the PC, the PSU will not power up because of short circuit protection.

The RMi uses corsair type 4 cables, so you can buy any type 4 EPS12V cable and it will work.
It's not expensive but i very highly doubt it'll change anything to your problem. You should find these in the corsair store or on big retailers like Amazon etc

The thing is your pump stopped once, and it should NEVER do that. That is enough to exchange the cooler. It has proven to be unreliable.
Maybe the cooler is starting to be old and there's gunk floating in the loop, got stuck on the pump, and moving the cooler did dislodge the particulates.. So great it works, but it will fail again pretty soon if that's what's happening.

you only need a new cable or an adapter.
The american one has the square plug because when running in 120V, they can exceed the 10A rating of the C13 plug we are used to. (the square C20 plug is rated for 16A).
 

.. and the X3D chips do run hotter than the others, and it's not cooler dependent. 3D VCache chips are harder to cool overall, that's most likely why it sits 60°C hotter than the water.
Definitely look at undervolting guides

that's normal, most PWM controllers work this way. Only the commander pro had that feature because it was made to drive non-PWM fans.
You can test fixed % speeds to figure out what speeds they give and go from there to set your curve

PSU CABLE COMPATIBILITY (corsair.com)
If your RMx is not a "shift" model, then it's the correct type yes. the regular RMx uses the type 4 pinout.

the usual response would be : "Does the computer turn on ?"
you put in the specs that the mobo doesn't boot.
Some PSUs are higher, some PSUs have the PG signal in under 90ms. Just see if it boots.
It looks too high to me though. Usually recent power supplies have a shorter delay than what the spec states, not higher.
If indeed your RMA unit is not working, maybe try to ask for a HX1500i instead. you're already on your 3rd AX1600i 😛

so, your case fans are plugged into the AIO commander core, and the AIO fans are plugged to the LNcore.. what you describe is normal.
If you want the AIO fans to be controlled under the AIO tab, you have to connect them to the AIO commander core obviously. from the factory they should be connected to RGB and PWM fan ports 1 to 3 in the commander core.
The fan control device in the 5000x is not exactly a fan control device. it's a simple PWM repeater, or hub. All the fans plugged to it will be running as one. If you can control it via Fancontrol, this repeater must be connected to one of the motherboard fan headers. If you want iCUE to control it, you'll have to plug the PWM input of the PWM hub on one of the PWM channels on the AIO commander core
 
I'll give you an example of what you can do if you want all the fans controlled by the AIO in iCUE :
-AIO fans, connected as normal to ports 1, 2 and 3 (RGB, and PWM)
-7th case fan (rear?) connected to the AIO on ports 4 (RGB and PWM)
-6 case fans motors connected to the 5000x PWM hub,
-5000x PWM hub connected to the AIO PWM port 5
-6 case fans RGB connected to the Lighting node core
 
In that setup :
-the AIO controls all the fan speeds (AIO on channels 1-3, rear fan on 4, case fans on 5).
-The AIO controls the RGB of the AIO and your rear fans (RGB channels 1-4)
-The lighting node core controls the RGB of the 6 case fans
 
It all works under iCUE like this.

Since your motherboard only has PCIE4 M.2 slots, you're hitting its maximum speed.
For PCIE 5 M.2, i believe you have to go to the Z790E and up

ideally you want to use one cable per connector on the GPU. If the PSU is powerful enough but doesn't have enough cables, you can still get individual cables.
Most of the time, PSUs come with pigtail cables (2 connectors per cable) which is utterly ugly, so people tend to get aftermarket single ended cables for the GPU.
It's up to you to see if it's worth it getting a bigger PSU with 3 pigtails in the box. If you think you'll end up replacing them, and a 850W is enough, you may go straight for that 850 + new PCIE cables.

CPU fan, or none.
That wire is here only to give the motherboard a pump speed reading so it doesn't beep at your face because it doesn't see a cooler installed.
You can disable the CPU fan alarm in the bios and just not connect that wire at all if you want, or connect the wire to CPU fan otherwise.

the ARGB only does ARGB.
ARGB is 5V, and the pumps + fans work on 12V, so you are good to go without lights.

two 8 pins plus the PCIE socket will easily allow 350W+ and this card peaks around 380 (sustained load usually is around 330 - 340W). that slight overload will easily work with one pigtail + one cable. But of course it's always better to go 3 cables. But you're not damaging anything by using one pigtail.

yes it will work. The PSU accepts type 3 and 4 PCIE as you found out

yep totally
just FYI, the "gen3" is the type of sleeving so, not relevant for functionality.
type 3, type 4 = bueno

the -12V has been listed as "optional" decades ago and not used in any modern PSU. It's an old thing from the AT days, before ATX i believe.
Are you in a 120V country? When first switched on, a PSU draws a lot of current, so even if the circuit wasn't overloaded, it's possible the inrush made it trip.
If the circuit breaker tripped, it won't be caused by anything on the secondary side of the PSU (the DC side) but either a defect on the AC side or something else on the circuit that powers it.
Have you tried powering it on from another circuit ?

the "CPU fan" should be the water  pump speed from your H60.  if the pump stops, the CPU temperature will slowly increase until shutdown.
If it's 8 years old, it's the typical sign of old age and a well earned retirement for the H60 ^^'
Often there is gunk buildup with years of use that can block the flow of water gradually, or if some get dislodged, it can plug it entirely or get in the pump impeller and stop it. Whatever happens inside it's typical of old AIO water coolers dying.
 

No need for a RMA. In your case it's missing hardware. You can still open a support ticket to have a spare screws set sent to you. You paid for them after all.
 

your PSU is a thermaltake one, as stated in your profile? If it is, you shouldn't use a corsair PSU cable with it, but use the TT one. Always use the cables that come with the PSU. If you mix brands, pinouts can differ and that can lead to the magic smoke escaping.
If the pinouts i've seen are correct, at your last try you sent 12V on the 5V pin of the commander pro, which would burn it right up.
For your first try though, it's hard to tell. some of the wires are so thin it's easy to have a shortcut if they get pinched somewhere in the case. Maybe photos would help.

the CX-M use type 4 cables like your CX-F, so it's compatible.
on those connectors on the PSU, there is a row of 4x12V, and a row of 4x ground. So it doesn't matter which 12V is not populated in the row.
the PCIE has 3x12V and 5x ground.