Jump to content
Corsair Community

LeDoyen

Members
  • Posts

    1,582
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    8

LeDoyen last won the day on September 7

LeDoyen had the most liked content!

Reputation

69 Excellent

1 Follower

About LeDoyen

  • Birthday 01/31/1980

Converted

  • Location
    France

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. pour l'insert de cintrage : https://www.docmicro.com/tuyauxliquides_tuyau-accessoire_Alphacool-Meche-Caoutchouc-pour-Tube-Rigide-10mm-Interne-1-Metre_13146.html Pour l'offset de 7mm : https://www.docmicro.com/embouts_embouts-accessoires-adaptateurs_EK-Water-Blocks-EK-Quantum-Torque-Rotary-Offset-7-Noir_15127.html Bitspower fait aussi des raccords de décalage qui s'accorderaient plus avec les raccords Corsair (Bitspower X-Cross), mais je n'en trouve pas en france en noir de la bonne taille (pas chercé longtemps non plus ^^)
  2. all exhaust iscertainly better 🙂 The second test looks a lot better. you can fine tune it by using custom fan and pump curves. The default ones aren't exactly stellar. 34°C water temp at idle with 22° ambient is quite a lot, but it's certainly due to very slow fans and pump speeds. From there it's mostly personal preference, if you want to favor silence or temperatures. Usually there's not much need to change pump speed by a lot. The default profiles tend to slow it way down on occasions. the GPU is more sensitive to it because of the huge die size. moderate to high load, with slow pump can get you higher temperatures. I tend not to go below 50 - 60%PWM on the pump, and increasing a bit as water temp increases. For the fans, it's mostly a noise thing. You can create a custom fan curve and set it by loading the GPU, and trying to hold it at a temperature that you like. If at 65° the fans were still quiet, you can increase the speed to a comfortable noise level, and see where the temperatures stabilize. Under full load, with two 360 rads, i wouldn't be surprised if you could hold the water 5°C cooler. The 6800XT outputs 300 - 320W of heat and the 5600X is pretty much negligible, so you have a lot of headroom with two large radiators.
  3. There could be a PITA workaround which would be adding a static effect just to the outer rings to add blue and maybe a hint of red, playing with transparency and intensity to basically color correct them.. I have no idea what happened to them, maybe the blue dies have weakened because of running constantly (if you usually favored blue / purple hues), or the frame plastic aging (but then why not the blades.. different material?)... I'll let others pitch in as i didn't use LL fans that long.
  4. To add to it, as i had to run iRL ^^ , when you had your AIO, it was only cooling the CPU, and there was only one radiator in the case, so the front fans were bringing fresh air in. The GPU was affecting it but not by much probably. Now the front fans pull fresh air through the radiator and blow warm air in the case. that warm air goes through the top radiator, not really helping to cool the water by much in this one. As the front fans keep getting warmer air because of the enclosed space, you get close to thermal runaway where the loop keeps heating itself up. Your current build can be seen as a ~500W heater, that you try to cool down in a box basically 🙂
  5. with the case enclosed there, your water temp will skyrocket. You basically have aircooling temperatures there on your components. You really have to get the case out in the open, maybe on top of the desk, or it will keep recirculating hot air back in constantly. The tower fan may help but it won't be magical. Maybe redo your tests with the case on the desk, and see what the loop CAN actually achieve ? With ambient at 22, i'd be surprised if water goes beyond 40°
  6. does it happen if you reduce brightness too? were they the same hue when you first got them? Bright white tends to degrade and kill RGB leds very quickly.
  7. with a new thermal pad i imagine you'd need to compress it quite a bit to get the thing to clip together. Just make sure you use the same thickness pad. half a milimeter too thick and assembly is impossible. i even wonder if they are not press mounted at the factory ^^'
  8. The NZXT hub was connected to the PSU too? Just asking to make sure 🙂
  9. If you open Windows' resource monitor (from the task manager) and look on the disk tab, do you have some process generating a lot of disk read and/or writes ? It's very unusual to see the controller going so hot, even without heatsink, without massive amounts of disk access The CPU may be somewhat idle, but it's possible something in the background keeps your disk busy
  10. Sur Windows 7 ca me le faisait tout le temps, obligé de relancer le navigateur pour avoir du son sur youtube si je débranchais un peripherique USB. Plus ce soucis sur Windows 10, il bascule tout seul sur le nouveau périphérique par défaut. Pour le casque ET micro qui marchent en branchant le jack, c'est normal 🙂 Les boitiers PC ont maintenant presque tous une prise micro/casque connectée directement a la carte mere pour connecter a la puce Realtek. C'est un jack a 4 connexions, une masse, deux connexions pour la stereo droite/gauche, et une connexion pour le signal du micro.. tout sur la meme prise.
  11. Yes the goal is to plug everything to the powered hub. It also requires a connexion to the power supply through a SATA cable, you should have spare unused connectors in there. It's precisely to power every USB device you usually plug directly to the USB header on the motherboard , which is what AMD has troubles with
  12. Do you have an AMD build? if you are there are long standing issues with USB on ryzen motherboards causing that kind of behaviour. You'd need to make sure the bios is up to date to have the latest AMD fixes on this issue and if it's not sufficient, get a powered internal USB hub, to remove any power load from the motherboard header. A lot of us use this one : https://nzxt.com/product/internal-usb-hub-gen-3
  13. Corsair? a manual? heheee I don't know how the XG7 RGB is fitted, but if it's like other blocks, that's just a strip embedded in the aesthetic front plate
  14. daaaaaaamn i thought these were on the go, replaced by flat cables... I wonderwho thought having 2 inches of stiff heat shrink filled with hot glue encasing capacitors was a good idea.. even if it fits its a massive eye sore for literally zero benefit
  15. well i replaced a LED strip 2 weeks ago that behaved like that. the first led was flashing at boot and gradually went back to normal. but this one didn't disturb the rest of the chain. Depends what is failing. for me it was a LED die probably. on yours it may be the control chip for that LED that messes up data to the rest of the chain. there's lots of failure points, so you can experience pretty varied issues depending if it's a bond wire failing, the control chip, a solder joint, the flex substrate snapping off etc.. it's a mess 🙂 if something doesnt behave normally 100% of the time > replace Maybe Corsair can ship to you a replacement strip. that would save you swapping the entire block
×
×
  • Create New...