mrgooden Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 Hey zotty. Been reading through this thread and it's got some great ideas and really helpful info. I'm glad there are others experiencing this almighty task of building the 1000d. I am going to be doing a custom loop in my build with push pull configs on 3 rads... Overkill i know :D I have hit a few snags though, the fan tray at the top I do need a 4x120mm if I wanna fit it all in and they are all out of stock of course. So I'm delayed again. Since I'm delayed I came here to learn some more stuff and I'm glad i did. I will also need lots of fan cable extensions and probably another copro (i have 2 already). I'm going to have 24 fans: 22 ll120s and 2 ll140s How many fan extensions do you think I'll need :O. I really hope I don't get bankrupted by this haha :') Thanks By your fan count. Push/pull config front and top. You're planning 2 x 140 exhaust in the rear. 2 x 140 will not fit without modification so you know . If you have not measured yet for the thickness of the radiators and fans, be aware I used 2 x 480 MM 45MM radiators on the front and 1 x 420MM radiator on the top and was not able to go push/pull on the front due to the top radiator obstruction. I could have left one fan off the top, but that messes with my OCD. I use 8 fans per CoPro myself using 2 splitters per unit. I also only needed 2 PWM extensions and used 0 RGB extension cables when I finalized the wiring. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalorean Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 They are just spares buddy.. the case its self has the EATX standoff's Pre-Installed :) Big THX, Zotty, appreciate your lightning-fast response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danoz0r Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 I created a 'u' Shape out of the paper if that makes sense :)... where you based?.. ScrewFix in the uk has some LED strip housing with built in defuser i am waiting for..... Results after Spray painting and soldering strips together so the led gap isnt to big. https://imgur.com/a/qDVrXej Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zotty Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 Looking pretty darn good that dude!.. will it fit in that gap between base plate and case? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danoz0r Posted January 22, 2019 Share Posted January 22, 2019 Looking pretty darn good that dude!.. will it fit in that gap between base plate and case? Thanks. Yes, it fits. Just haven't figured out what orientation I should put it. LEDs facing down, facing out, facing up. Going to try changing positions and see what I like best :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zotty Posted January 22, 2019 Author Share Posted January 22, 2019 Keep us posted dude.. Great so far :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fwashy Posted January 23, 2019 Share Posted January 23, 2019 By your fan count. Push/pull config front and top. You're planning 2 x 140 exhaust in the rear. 2 x 140 will not fit without modification so you know . If you have not measured yet for the thickness of the radiators and fans, be aware I used 2 x 480 MM 45MM radiators on the front and 1 x 420MM radiator on the top and was not able to go push/pull on the front due to the top radiator obstruction. I could have left one fan off the top, but that messes with my OCD. I use 8 fans per CoPro myself using 2 splitters per unit. I also only needed 2 PWM extensions and used 0 RGB extension cables when I finalized the wiring. I learned the hard way about the push/pull 420 on the top not fitting so this is why I need the 4x120mm fan tray that seems like it will never be back in stock. I'm gonna use a 360mm rad on top instead. Ohh, 2x140 fan don't fit the case? The spec sheet said it should too. Damn that's a freakin shame. Well time to purchase more 120's 😑 Thanks for the heads up 😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrgooden Posted January 24, 2019 Share Posted January 24, 2019 (edited) I learned the hard way about the push/pull 420 on the top not fitting so this is why I need the 4x120mm fan tray that seems like it will never be back in stock. I'm gonna use a 360mm rad on top instead. Ohh, 2x140 fan don't fit the case? The spec sheet said it should too. Damn that's a freakin shame. Well time to purchase more 120's Thanks for the heads up Anytime. Yea, I ordered two extra 140s to put in. Now they sit in a drawer. Put back the 120s. Edited January 24, 2019 by mrgooden Typo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UMUX Posted February 8, 2019 Share Posted February 8, 2019 I'm building a similar one. Need to make some modifications to fit the 420 on top. Do you know how I can take off the top roof of the 1000D (the top glass strip)? I can't see any screws and it doesn't seem it pops off? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zotty Posted February 8, 2019 Author Share Posted February 8, 2019 Hi bud.. It must come off as they sell it as a spare https://www.corsair.com/uk/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/PC-Components/Cases/Obsidian-1000D-Top-Panel/p/CC-8900167 i have had look up inside and i can see 4 Phillips screws up there.. but can't see how they hold the top panel on.... not sure buddy.. my system is built atm so can't take it apart lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GaspodeX Posted February 15, 2019 Share Posted February 15, 2019 Anytime. Yea, I ordered two extra 140s to put in. Now they sit in a drawer. Put back the 120s. At the back? I got 2x140s into the back of mine .. at least I think I did .. I'll check and take a pic when I get home. G. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zotty Posted February 16, 2019 Author Share Posted February 16, 2019 http://i.imgur.com/j08XHzZl.png well look at that!!! https://www.corsair.com/uk/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-%7C-Parts/PC-Components/Cooling-And-Corsair-Link/USB-3-1-Gen-2-Header-to-USB-3-0-19-pin-Adapter/p/CC-8900303 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valravn Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Hey, I've been silently following your build for quite a while - great job by the way (until you set everything to "Rainbow", then it turns into an over-the-top madness, lel). Now that I've bought 3-pack ML120s and going to order 3 more, I felt the urge to reveal myself, create an account and ask you guys this... since for some reason I believe you'll have the answer. So... Let me tell the story first :) I bought MLs to replace my 3 EK Vardar 2200ERs attached to a triple radiator on top. Two of them Vardars have turned into unpredictable screech generators in just a year and a half. The reason I say "unpredictable" is that sometimes they are whisper-quiet, and 5 minutes later they can rev like a buzzsaw, and it doesn't really depend on RPM. I've googled for a little and found somewhat confirmation to my initial guess which is this: my former fans were attached to the top rad and oriented "upside-down" (i.e. were pushing the air through the rad and exhausting it outside). This "upside-down" alignment applies extra stress to the bearing which may come loose with time (one of the faulty fans' blades indeed goes up and down if I gently push it with a finger). So - sorry for the long intro - I'm really curious, how are Magnetic Levitation fans dealing with that "head-over-heels" orientation? Since I've already bought them, I'm prepared to hear the truth whatever it is :) Or is the orientation irrelevant and the fact my Vardars sound like a flat tire means only EK's quality control is not the best? :) (I know I could rotate top fans and turn them into intakes so that they pull the air through the rad into the case, but first, I can see ML LEDs uncovered by blades if I do that, and secondly, I'm keeping the top of my Evolv case half-open for a better airflow, and there's no dust filter there. So three intake fans there could turn my rad into a thick bar of dust in a few months lol) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DevBiker Posted February 18, 2019 Share Posted February 18, 2019 Hey, I've been silently following your build for quite a while - great job by the way (until you set everything to "Rainbow", then it turns into an over-the-top madness, lel). Now that I've bought 3-pack ML120s and going to order 3 more, I felt the urge to reveal myself, create an account and ask you guys this... since for some reason I believe you'll have the answer. So... Let me tell the story first :) I bought MLs to replace my 3 EK Vardar 2200ERs attached to a triple radiator on top. Two of them Vardars have turned into unpredictable screech generators in just a year and a half. The reason I say "unpredictable" is that sometimes they are whisper-quiet, and 5 minutes later they can rev like a buzzsaw, and it doesn't really depend on RPM. I've googled for a little and found somewhat confirmation to my initial guess which is this: my former fans were attached to the top rad and oriented "upside-down" (i.e. were pushing the air through the rad and exhausting it outside). This "upside-down" alignment applies extra stress to the bearing which may come loose with time (one of the faulty fans' blades indeed goes up and down if I gently push it with a finger). So - sorry for the long intro - I'm really curious, how are Magnetic Levitation fans dealing with that "head-over-heels" orientation? Since I've already bought them, I'm prepared to hear the truth whatever it is :) Or is the orientation irrelevant and the fact my Vardars sound like a flat tire means only EK's quality control is not the best? :) (I know I could rotate top fans and turn them into intakes so that they pull the air through the rad into the case, but first, I can see ML LEDs uncovered by blades if I do that, and secondly, I'm keeping the top of my Evolv case half-open for a better airflow, and there's no dust filter there. So three intake fans there could turn my rad into a thick bar of dust in a few months lol) I can't speak to the Vardars; never had 'em. But I can speak to the MLs - they are everything that they claim to be, regardless of orientation. I have them - currently - in various machines in all kinds of orientations - and they are super-quiet. If Corsair had LL-style MLs, I'd replace every single fan I have. But ... just gotta have the RGBz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valravn Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 I can't speak to the Vardars; never had 'em. But I can speak to the MLs - they are everything that they claim to be, regardless of orientation. I have them - currently - in various machines in all kinds of orientations - and they are super-quiet. If Corsair had LL-style MLs, I'd replace every single fan I have. But ... just gotta have the RGBz. I'm interested in one specific layout - upside down :) How long have you been rocking MLs in this one? Yep, I know they are super quiet, tested them outside of the case already, and to be honest that's pretty much to be expected given the price and the fact they are only 1600 RPM. I'm only considered about bearing degradation. I've been using all sorts of fans on top - 2 generation of Silent Wings, various Noctuas, Corsair SPs, but everytime they were facing up, acting as intake. The 1st time I try exhaust upside down - and that thingy happens :) So that made me wondering if, one - this is indeed a bearing-unfriendly orientation and two, how are magnetic levitation ones doing as they are something completely new for me, I was afraid they are kinda delicate cuz "magnetic levitation" sounds pretty scientific :D: BTW thanks for your DIY extenders video, very helpful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DevBiker Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Like I said ... I have them in every orientation. And I've had MLs since shortly after they were released - before all of the RGB. I have ... uhhh ... at least a dozen of them running in different systems. I have the "Classic", ML-RGB and the ML-RGB "Platinum". The only caveat is that these fans do absolutely require the full 12V at all times. Some PWM fans can also be controlled with DC control - these cannot. If you don't provide the full 12V, the levitation won't work properly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valravn Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 okay, thanks! Sorry, I did not understand your first reply was an answer, seemed a bit like a seller's "its great no matter what, just buy it" :) As for that "full 12V line", I've noticed Zotty was using Y-splitters to power up that huge number of fans. Since you state that the magnetic levitation feature depends on the voltage, are there any specific recommendations that apply to ML fans in terms of splitters? Something like "no more than 3 fans for each standard (non-HPWR) header"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danoz0r Posted February 19, 2019 Share Posted February 19, 2019 Question to all of you guys. Do you guys experience rgb sync issues? f.ex suddenly rgb strips stay one color while rest works? For me, a restart fixes it, but still annoying. Thinking it could just be iCUE software issue Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zotty Posted February 19, 2019 Author Share Posted February 19, 2019 Most likely software dude... are you running any other RGB software?.. but best bet is to ask in the iCUE section :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danoz0r Posted February 20, 2019 Share Posted February 20, 2019 Most likely software dude... are you running any other RGB software?.. but best bet is to ask in the iCUE section :) I'm using the same diagram as you. That's why I thought I should ask here first:) Yes, I am using Asus Aura to for motherboard and graphics cards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zotty Posted February 21, 2019 Author Share Posted February 21, 2019 I'm using the same diagram as you. That's why I thought I should ask here first:) . Good call bud.. but it's not down to hardware i feel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zotty Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 Been Playing RGBZ..... http://i.imgur.com/NZzZhHNl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/6km2cHXl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/udE4wRMl.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Foi5JYdl.jpg i used LED Strip Mounting Profile that also has defused cover. for uk guys its available below https://mkshop.co.uk/1-metre-black-aluminium-extrusion-profile-linemini-for-led-strip-lights/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
danoz0r Posted March 4, 2019 Share Posted March 4, 2019 Been Playing RGBZ..... for uk guys its available below https://mkshop.co.uk/1-metre-black-aluminium-extrusion-profile-linemini-for-led-strip-lights/ Whoooah.. this would have saved me from spray painting :) Looks awesome tho ^^ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zotty Posted March 4, 2019 Author Share Posted March 4, 2019 i have a few more meters of it to go lol... 570x under glow here we come :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greed13 Posted March 11, 2019 Share Posted March 11, 2019 Hey Zotty, So my friend built a 1000D and we followed your guide which was a precious help to us, but he experienced higher temperatures when swapping from his previous case to the 1000D, we have all 13 fans, I took care of the thermal paste, so I know this is not the problem, but I think it comes from the fan orientation, can you tell me in which directions the fans must be for an optimal result ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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