eisenb11

Late to the post, but I just wanted to post here in case anyone tries to look up this info in the future. It really depends on what you're trying to do with your layout. In my case with Alphacool, I'm using 2x ST30 480mm up top and 2x XT45 480mm up front. My layout required a thinner rad up top so as not to block the inlet/outlet of the front rad.

I think pretty much all distro plates will rain on your parade if you're looking to do 4 rads. I'm a big EK fan, but their distro block doesn't allow any rads up front which is a bit disappointing. Took a look at the picture at your Byski link and it looks like the reference setup only has a single short rad on top and skinny single rad up front. Maybe, skip the distro plate and go with a traditional res setup instead? You can still go dual pump to deal with the restriction. I ended up using the EK-XTOP dual D5 for the pumping and did 2x Alphacool ST30 480mm up top and 2x Alphacool XT45 480mm up front for the rads. Had to make the top res'es a bit thinner to not block the inlets and outlets of the front res'es in my set up. Slightly older pic attached. Same basic setup, but I upgraded my mobo and CPU, so I'm using a different monoblock now.

Not sure what's up with Corsair's store... been trying to check out that bracket for 2 days. Keep getting stuck on a "loading" spinner with both Firefox and Chrome and Edge so I can't complete the checkout process.

Ooh, good point, I didn't think about that. Took a quick look just now and it looks like there is only a small area where the ITX cover overlaps the card slots. Nothing structural there (e.g. screw holes). I imagine that this would be addressable by cutting a small square out of that bracket. I might see later if that bracket is available as a spare part - may buy one to experiment with. If I can successfully mod one, it would be worth keeping that modded part around just in case... and if I fail to mod one - then I know not to bother with that in the future! ha ha

I was toying with the idea of doing 2 vert mounts. I think it can be done so long as you only have 1 system in the 1000D. For the 2nd GPU, you would vert mount it with the 2 slots that were meant for the 2nd system that is further out. Since the Corsair PCI-E extender is super long, I'm thinking that it should be able to reach the 2nd card. The 2 cards would be staggered instead of exactly aligned, but I think it would look pretty cool. I'm only about 20% that I'll actually go dual GPU (maybe when the next GPU comes out, I'll keep my current one and go dual), but if I did that's how I would probably do it.

May be too late now, but you always want to run the loop for a while with the system powered off to be sure there are no leaks. Better to deal with a mess when a new loop fails than to let the magic smoke out of the components.

That’s a lot of flexing are you sure that isn’t being caused by external forces? Is the card still flexed like that if it were not installed in the system?

I think you’re referring to the big (1 inch?) air gap in the video? I think that that’s due to the length of the drop - you have a long drop to your res and given how much fluid is in the system, the pump appears to be pumping liquid in slower than gravity can drop it. Not sure if a higher pump speed will help. Adding more liquid to fill the loop would help, but you probably need another fill port located higher in your loop because I’m guessing that when you turn off your system, the liquid in the vertical drop likely fills the res up so you can’t add more. It’s also possible, it’s just an air bubble and not feed related. If that’s the case just give it time and these things usually clear up on their own. Just my guess! -- Edit: So I just watched the video again - a higher flow rate may help it disappear faster. It's been 3-4 weeks since I built my last loop and I still have some air in the system - a lot less than before though, just a slow process.

Curious about that, myself - please post how if you end up finding out offline. Hopefully, the etch is just on the plastic wrap and not on the actual glass? My wrap was in very bad shape which made me worried - but everything was ok when I peeled it off.

Hi there, just saw this thread. I have 4x alpha cool 480s in my case (pic below). The top rads are ST30. The fronts rads are XT45. As you can see, you may have a length problem if you install the top rads such that the ports are towards the front of the case. In my setup, I installed the top rad so the ports are towards the back of the case - the front rads didn't matter if I had the ports on the top or bottom. If you're going for a thicker top rad or push-pull on top, you'll likely need to align your front rad ports on the bottom. Hope this helped.

Hard tubing type - PETG is easier to work with than acrylic, but it’s more permeable so more susceptible to staining. Also find out what’s in your coolant. Coolants with glycol should be used with acrylic (borosilicate glass tubing is probably ok too), not recommended for PETG. This is mentioned somewhere on Mayhems.

I think you have to drill out the rivets to remove the drive cage. I just left mine empty in case I need it in the future. Guess it can also be used to stuff wires into for cable management ha ha. The short 3 pin I believe is to connect a led strip to, if you desire to do so. I tucked mine away.

I have 4 of these (Nexxxos v2) in my build and am happy. I have 2 60mm and 2 30mm. The port placement is only on the front and back so it allows you to rotate the rads, but that’s pretty much it. Would have been nice if the had ports on the top just to provide more options. The flush plugs are great. Not sure if you noticed but they also added little flaps to the grill to increase surface area. Also the drain port on the bottom is great - I have 2 of my 3 drain lines coming off of those. Also the rads look great because of the simple square shape; some rads look a little too busy from a sideways perspective to me! Edit - just realized that not all rads have the inlet and outlet on both sides and that I had been taking that for granted. That said, yeah it’s pretty cool to have 4 useable ports on each rad - still wish they had ports on top too though. I’m using some of those extra ports with air exhaust fittings for use when draining the system.

I was originally thinking of getting HWL but there seems to be an issue with putting 2 of them side by side due to width, that’s why I ended up going with with Alpha. Now the Corsair rads are out and I believe they’re actually made by HWL *and* they seem to be a little narrower so no width issue it looks like. One caveat - I still didn’t buy them because I wanted to route some tubing at the top. The Corsair/HWL 480s are 55mm thick. You can use them for both top and bottom (you need to get that other top tray tho) but I believe the spacing will require that the ports on the front rad be towards the bottom of the case where I wanted them on top. In order to do what I wanted I could have no more than 30mm thickness up top. If you’re ok with routing tube to the bottom of the case I think you’ll be solid.

Yeah, the dual loop will be optimal if you're trying to keep your CPU and GPU separate. Also looks pretty cool and you can do 2 different colors. I figured that with 4x 480s there is so much overkill going on that that I could get away with a single loop and still get low RPM fan performance :) That lead to the choice of a dual pump, because having 4 rads will add a lot of restriction so this allowed me to keep the pressure up with the RPM down (lower noise). The tubing size is 16mm. I went with acrylic. Supposedly a little harder to work with, but I didn't deal with bending and also was planning on using a glycol based coolant, so better safe than sorry! Yeah, EK's mounting options were pretty bad, I'm using their res clips to hold my res up - they have no grip. I probably should have added some rubber pads or something to them. My res is really being held in place by the fittings on the top and bottom. I think it may be possible to manually modify those horizontal pump mounts to reduce their footprint either through bending or the fun way - with a drill. Best of luck - remember to post pics!

You could also mount one on the sidewall and one on one of the fans in the forward column which will allow you to align them in height so it doesn't look weird. That leaves none on the tray, though. Or if you're willing to whip out a drill, you can probably come up with a hole pattern that'll allow both pumps to be mounted on the tray. Or switch to single loop. I have a pic of my single res, dual pump set up on page 5 of the 1000D thread in the case section.

Oh wow, you're doing a RGB hub splitter into 2 more RGB hub splitters... never thought of that! Good idea.

Thanks for the compliments! Most definitely, here are some lessons learned: * With the rad ports on top, I could fit pretty much any thickness of rad in front (I used a 60 mm) but I could only fit a 30 mm up top without blocking the ports. I only had about 2 mm to spare. I wanted the rads in series and a clean connection (hence the straight run) so the front rad ports had to be up top. * You can go over 30 mm up top if you move the front rad ports to the bottom, but this setup is likely better for dual loops versus single loop. Also, all this is moot if you stick with the original top fan tray or put a 360 mm rad in the 8 fan tray. I wanted 4x 480s so I could go low RPM on the fans. * Get some swiveling offset fittings! Life saver as 2 times I found that ports were misaligned by just 4-5 mm. Most fittings require at least 10 mm to offset so these were a life saver. * The rear fans support either 2x 120s or 1x 140. The product description made it sound like you could use 2x 140 mm. * RGB is much cooler than I thought it would be! * Careful mixing and matching RGB components if you want to use only iCue. There are a bunch of 3rd party converters and adapters, but they’re all limited to 5v like the Corsair stuff. Some components are still using 12v analog RGB, like with my res and GPU block. I have a second RGB controller for those. * Extensions - you need them! This case is huge! I ended up having to use a number of PWM, Corsair RGB (made by 3rd party), and analog RGB extension cables if I wanted to have enough length to do some level of cable management. * RGB hub splitter cables are awesome. These are 3rd party. Each hub only supports 6 RGB connections. You could buy individual 3rd party RGB splitters, but it gets expensive fast. With each 8 fan tray you have 2 columns of 4. I decided I wanted each column to be individually addressable, each fan in each row wasn’t necessary so the 8 fans could essentially be 4 fans in a sense. So 1 RGB hub splitter cable to 2 RGB hubs (each with 4 fans) and all set! * It’s sometimes cheaper to buy the Corsair fan kit instead of individual fans. I bought my kits on sale so the fans had a lower per unit price. And as a bonus you also get a RGB hub, Node, extension cables, etc. with them. Nice to get more for less! * The Corsair PCIe riser cable is really long at 300mm. This case doesn’t push the GPU out very far when going vertical. You end up having to bend it a lot so you end up being able to see the cable beneath the bottom of the card. Fortunately, it’s a nice looking cable and I’m still happy with the look. If you want to completely hide the cable, I recommend getting a shorter one which likely requires going 3rd party. Hope this helps!

Mission accomplished! Just finished getting my rig up and running - same computer, but just moved from an original Level 10 to the 1000D.

Very cool, let me know if you decide to commercialize this... could use one! I understand that Corsair wants us to buy all their stuff, but part of the fun of being an enthusiast is being able to mix and match and swap things in and out.

It's held on by double sided tape. Probably just pull slowly! :P

Just got my new rig up and loving the new RGB, question though - is there any way to control 4 pin 12v RGB with iCue so I can keep everything in sync? Currently have 18 ML RGB fans, but I also had leds on my reservoir and GPU block that use 12v 4 pin RGB. The Corsair fans and case LED are connected to 2x Commander Pros with 4x LED hubs between them. The res and GPU block are connected to a third party RGB controller. Not interested in switching blocks and res to Hydro X as an only option as I prefer to have flexibility when it comes to those components - provides more design / aesthetics freedom. As far as I can tell, it looks like current Corsair control is limited to 5v.

Apparently my Ode didn't work - guess Corsair doesn't like poetry! I had submitted a support ticket and there is no stock world-wide. I also cannot find any retailers world-wide that have it in stock. My support response below. "Upon checking our worldwide inventory (including stocks for warranty replacement which is not seen online), the fan tray you are looking for is not available anywhere as of now and there is no ETA on when would it be back in stock." Asked for clarification if "no ETA" means "not soon" or just "dunno".

Still no luck... Corsair - what's it going to take? Poetry?!? An Ode to the Humongous Empty PC Case Sitting in the Middle of my Office Oh giant Corsair, Why dost thou tease me? With massive awesomeness and space, For not one, two, or three radiators, but more. But alas, this thought is neigh, For lack of a simple tray, All action is denied

Will do... I've been checking like 10 times per day! :) Can't get started until I have this piece because my entire loop design hinges on what I end up doing with this tray (2x 480 vs 2x 360) and the orientation of what goes in this tray - so I need to build from the top down.