DevBiker

Not yet. I'm sure that they are coming but no word as to when. Hopefully they'll also have beefier 5V rails as well.

OK ... so which AIO do you have? Most AIOs are powered from SATA and don't require the "AIO Header" (which is a really stupid marketing gimmick on the part of motherboard manufacturers). So that AIO should be connected to the CPU Fan Header in most cases. As I don't know which AIO you have, exactly, I can't be more specific than that. As for the RGB, there are adapters for that. But plugging them in directly most certainly will not work. And imported profiles seem to get confused on the CoCores when there are different fan types on the controller.

It does sound like the PWM controller is blown. Although - I'm not sure exactly how as the circuit for the 12V fans wouldn't have been completed so I'm a bit mystified what, exactly, went awry. I would contact Corsair support before buying a new AIO. They do have a separate part for the Commander Core [Capellix]: https://www.corsair.com/us/en/Categories/Products/Accessories-|-Parts/Commander-CORE-RGB-%26-PWM-Fan-Controller/p/CW-8960071. But it's not in stock.

Oh, yes, it does work just fine and dandy.

Powered internal USB hub. NZXT makes one that many of us 'round here use. There are others available as well. Just make sure that it is fully powered from the PSU.

Did you put that RGB connector into the PWM fan header?

Are you using the power connectors that came with the PSU? You didn't use any cables from a different PSU did you? This is a common cause for these kinds of issues as well. I agree with @LeDoyen - this sounds like short circuit protection kicking off. You mentioned that it was fine and then you "did cable management". So my guess is that you rearranged something while cable-managing and that's what made things go kaput.

DO NOT use a SATA power splitter on any RGB devices. Ideally, don't use them at all but there are devices where you can "get away" with it. RGB uses a goodly bit of 5V current. SATA power connectors are limited to 4.5A. Which means that putting RGB (which can draw up to that max amperage on a single connector) on a splitter is a good way to overload the SATA power connector. Example: 2x RGB controllers pulling, say 3.0A each on a splitter will pull 6.0A from the source SATA power connector. This is a good 33% higher than spec and an excellent way to either melt things or start a fire, neither of which, I'm going to assume, are your goal here.

They are fine. I have several Asus boards with no issues. The quality of the components varies widely based on the exact model you get, however.

It is a user-to-user forum, after all. If you want an official statement from Corsair, you need to contact support via a ticket.

Have I been missing something these past few years? All this time I thought that the Commander Pro was an RGB controller - it does, after all, have 2 RGB Channels on it. Of course, you do need an RGB Fan LED Hub to distribute the RGB signal and power to the fans (which Corsair, in its infinite wisdom, has decided to discontinue) ... the that fan hub is not, by any stretch of the imagination, a controller. So is the official Corsair word now that the Commander Pro is no longer an RGB controller? Or was it never an RGB controller? I'm so confused right now.

If you read the directions on the Capellix coolers, you'll note that there is a 3-pin fan connector that you are instructed to connect to the CPU Fan header. If you do that, you shouldn't get the CPU fan warning any longer. Otherwise, you can disable it ... but installing as instructed in the manual will provide a fail-safe mechanism in the event of a pump failure.

Have you perhaps tried reconnecting USB while the system is running (to force USB re-initialization)? You can just pull out the USB connector on the LNP and re-plug it.

Well, the Commander Core and Commander Core XT does do PWM fan curves, based on percentages. Maybe you should refrain from making comments or statements about things that you have little or no personal experience with, eh? And we can debate the merits of PWM % control vs RPM control - there are certainly benefits to being able to control based on pure fan speed rather than PWM percentages - that's not really relevant. But just because most controllers implement PWM % control (because it's simpler to implement), doesn't mean that it's the best way - it's just the way that you are used to.

We do only tend to see this when there is a conflict. You mentioned HWInfo. Did you install the driver? it does that by default and leaving that driver installed (Persistent Driver) can cause the issue. You do need to specifically go into the Safety settings and disable the Corsair/Asetek support AND make sure that you don't load the persistent driver. Just shutting down HWInfo doesn't necessarily fix it.

How many more channels are you looking for? And you want separate, independently controllable channels?

My SL's only have 3600 for an XMP profile. You could set it manually ... but why? While that's what the Intel spec says, you will run perfectly fine at 3600 (or even faster). The Intel memory specs have always been crazily conservative.

Yes, the paper clip test will work. You may need something that will draw some power when it does start. Don't expect to see the fan spin at all. But the paper clip test isn't really a 'bench test' of a PSU.

Connecting the cooler to the CPU fan header serves to provide a tach reading to the BIOS so that you don't get a CPU warning. That's it. It has no other function at all. The warning that you saw is expected if you don't connect the fan header. One thing about that, though, is that it can provide a warning of pump failure ... so I would suggest connecting it. From what you've said, it sounds like you may have some obstruction or a bad pump. If the fans are ramping up while you are still in the BIOS, that would indicate that the liquid temp is too high.

On the Commander Core XT, you have 1 3 pin Corsair header that can be set to a strip. You cannot set ANY of the 4-pin headers to a strip. Only fan ... and only a single fan. So that does limit the amount of RGB that you can put on there as well.

Do you see the fan RPM in any other monitoring tools? Say, AfterBurner?

By the way ... I did find these being sold on eBay for 19.99/ cable. They have both left and right.

Do you have any information on the size of these? As you have the speakers, can you show the connection to them, perhaps with a ruler measuring the width/height? They look very similar to a 4-pin EPS12V power connector.

If you have a traditional Ryzen mount, it can be tough to get good contact but it can be done. I seem to recall bending the plastic skirt a bit to get it tight on my Ryzen. You want it to be seated down tight - I have to wonder if that's the issue. I had a similar problem with mine but powered down the system, removed the pump and reseated it firmly ... all was good since then. I think one of the contacts may be a bit flaky?

Excellent. It sounds like you have the airflow done well and don't have radiator heat feeding into another. The other thing to look at is the top that you have on the case. The 5000X comes with a glass top, IIRC. That glass top will interfere with getting heat out of the case - it acts as a "heat barrier". This then leads to a 'column' of warmer air that then recirculates through the radiator. This will become a feedback loop, too, and only get worse. Replacing the glass top of the 5000X with the airflow top (which is available separately and completely cross-compatible) will help. If you want to test if it'll make a difference, just remove the top glass panel for a bit and see what that does to temps.