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Low output on 12v rail.


Kraminka

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Hi,

 

To give you a bit of background info, my PC started randomly restarting several months ago. After some help from some people on a forum we found that the output on the 12 volt rail was about 1.77 volts (using CPU-Z).

 

They told me that it was faulty, as such I got another one through warranty.

And I ran CPU-Z as soon as I put the new PSU in my PC to check what the output was.

 

I received this result: Voltage 4 1.66 Volts [0x1A] (+12V)

 

And I am unsure if this one is actually faulty or if it is another problem.

 

Another note: On start up, my CPU fan starts then stops and the screen stays black for about 2 - 3 seconds and then the fan starts up again and the motherboard screen appears.

 

At the moment I am quite worried about my PC.

 

Thanks and Regards,

 

Nick

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"At the moment I am quite worried about my PC." I would be to. The feedback tab about that motherboard over at NewEgg is quite telling:

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=13-128-423&SortField=0&SummaryType=0&Pagesize=10&PurchaseMark=&SelectedRating=-1&VideoOnlyMark=False&VendorMark=&IsFeedbackTab=true&Page=1#scrollFullInfo

 

Looks like a lemon, that no amount of tweaking can fix.

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After some help from some people on a forum we found that the output on the 12 volt rail was about 1.77 volts (using CPU-Z).

Thats impossible! The PC would not even post at 1.77v. The best thingf you can do is get a hold of a multi-meter and check the voltages that way. It's the only TRUE reading you will get.

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Thats impossible! The PC would not even post at 1.77v. The best thingf you can do is get a hold of a multi-meter and check the voltages that way. It's the only TRUE reading you will get.

 

I know that it should be impossible, when checking in the bios, it is said to be at around 12.125 volts.

 

So there is something else going on here.

 

"At the moment I am quite worried about my PC." I would be to. The feedback tab about that motherboard over at NewEgg is quite telling:

 

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...scrollFullInfo

 

Looks like a lemon, that no amount of tweaking can fix.

 

I'm thinking of getting an Asus Sabretooth instead of this Mobo now. But the place of purchace no longer stocks them and I don't have a lot of money.

Would I be able to get my current mobo sent back and get a refund?

 

Regards,

 

Nick

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I'm thinking of getting an Asus Sabretooth instead of this Mobo now. But the place of purchace no longer stocks them and I don't have a lot of money.

Would I be able to get my current mobo sent back and get a refund?

Sorry , that is something we would not be able to answer. You will have to contact the MB manufacturer or place of purchase and discuss that with them.

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Refunds are dependent on the place you bought it from and the length of time you've had it. Sometimes the retailor will offer you an exchange for a different branded comparatively priced motherboard. You'll need to ask. I'd go through your retailer first (quicker), then Gigabyte. Just be sure to check that any board offered is compatible with the ram you have by checking Corsairs Memory Configurator or you'll end up needing to buy new ram. Check that the board supports your cpu as well.

 

http://www.corsair.com/learn_n_explore/

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Okay, so today I experienced the first random reboot since installing the new PSU.

As usual, the screen went black, fans remained on and then the motherboard screen appeared.

 

Before it could load the windows log-on screen it rebooted again.

So I turned my PC off.

 

I have not yet had the chance to replace the CMOS battery.

 

I forgot to mention earlier that when being turned on the PC give two short beeps before the CPU fan stops temporarily, which is said in the motherboard booklet to be a CMOS setting error.

 

Any ideas?

 

Regards,

 

Nick.

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I am going to attempt to get another CMOS battery today; although I doubt any of the shops in my town will have any.

 

Anyway, I removed the RAM and in one of the DIMM slots appears to be a small black spot, upon closer inspection, though I am not completely sure it appears to a burnt spot. At the moment I don't have a DIMM in that slot and I loaded the fail safe BIOS settings. And I'm hoping that it doesn't reboot.

 

And if not, it might be a faulty DIMM slot.

 

Regards,

 

Nick

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Nick,

please replace the CMOS battery. The issues you are stating to have do not appear to be RAM related. Or even slot related.

 

It is all pointing towards a weak CMOS battery. You can find them at just about any electronics store or even a camera shop. They should be able to cross match the numbers on the battery depending on the brand name they carry.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hi again,

 

It's been a while.

Since the last time I posted I have checked the motherboard for bent pins; none were bent.

 

When checking the RAM I found a small piece of something (I'm unsure what it was) in one of the DIMM slots. I removed it and haven't has the random reboot issue since.

 

However, about a week ago my PC abruptly shut down. It refused to turn on, when I unplugged the PSU from the wall and plugged it back in, the fans would spin up very briefly when the power button was pressed while a few motherboard lights would remain lit. I think they were the DDR/NB phase lights.

 

I would have to unplug the PSU each time this happened before it would happen again.

 

I tried the paper clip trick and the PSU fan spun up. I put it in my PC and it has been working since.

 

I noticed that all CPU Overvoltage LEDs (L1: green - slight, L2: yellow - moderate, L3: red - high) would be lit when playing games such as Skyrim. I had not noticed this before as my heat-sink had a red LED.

 

The motherboard user's manual stated that Temperature Indication lights were in the same spot. Although while monitoring the temperatures I never noticed it go above 60 Degrees Celsius. So I don't think the lights were lit for overheating reasons.

 

Earlier today my PC again shut down without warning and when trying the paper clip trick the fan spun up and I heard a clicking noise and a slight burning smell was present.

 

I tried the paper clip trick again much later and the fan spun up without a fuss.

No clicking and no burning smell.

 

I haven't tried putting the PSU back in the case and turning the computer on as I fear that something may get damaged if the PSU is faulty.

 

I'm rather perplexed by the issues I'm having; I think that I've found a solution and another problem arises.

 

Anyway, what do you suggest I do next?

 

Best Regards,

 

Nick

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