Mr_Armageddon Posted October 16, 2009 Author Share Posted October 16, 2009 Are you going to be cooling your Motherboard Chipset? If so, I would use the 45 degree Rotary Fittings between the Chipset and CPU waterblocks as the bend can be really tight. If you are not WC your Chipset, then using the rotary fittings on the bottom RAD works fine as well. I personally used barb fittings on the T-Block coming out of the reservoir because there was a lot of tubing in that area, and compression fittings would have been really difficult to tighten (I have big hands). If you get the Bitspower barbs, they don't even need clams as they are a tad bigger than 3/8" and the tubing goes on very sung. On the pumps I just some basic nylon hose clamps to secure the tubing to the barb. Just make sure your hose clamps are rotated in a directions that won't interfere with the T-Block and Barb fitting from the reservoir. Those 5870's do perform well and are priced pretty good, but I too can't move forward until I at least see some benchmarks from the Fermi cards. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gutcheck Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 No as of right now nothing but the vid card. I am sure once I get this working I will eventually build another loop, but right now I just want to see how this works. My CPU is quite cold with the H50 actually. Got my hands on an EVGA Waterblock for 70 bucks, so I'm just going to cool my 295 for right now and wait and see. Which means..... I am going to have to learn how to drain and refil this thing. I was planning on putting that off until you do it so you could teach me how to do that too LOL. I'm sure I can figure it out :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordreye Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 Thanks so much for the great post! I just received my 800D and am going to transfer my existing setup before rebuilding it with a new MB in a few months. A question for you: You added 5 fans to the case but it appears your fan controller can only support 4. Can you describe how you have your fans wired? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Armageddon Posted October 19, 2009 Author Share Posted October 19, 2009 Thanks so much for the great post! I just received my 800D and am going to transfer my existing setup before rebuilding it with a new MB in a few months. A question for you: You added 5 fans to the case but it appears your fan controller can only support 4. Can you describe how you have your fans wired? I bought the Scynth Kaze Server Fan Controller specifically because it can handle the necessary wattage to run up to 3 fans per channel. There are 4 channels, so i can run up to 12 of the 120mm fans I selected. You can purchase fan extensions that have a "Y" splitter and can be used for 2 fans each, or you could just solder up to 3 fans per connector cable. The image below shows which fans are going to which fan controller. Controllers 1 & 2 are adjusted according to the temperature registered with the #1 Temp sensor (CPU/Chipset Loop Liquid). Controllers 3 & 4 operate according to the temp of sensor #3 (GPU Loop Liquid). The pic of the fan Controller is from their web site, so don't take any stock in the RPM speeds seen here. http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2793/4024510711_d3992f8fec.jpg I was originally planning on running a push/pull configuration for the top radiator (6 fans top rad, 2 on bottom, 8 fans total), but turns out the performance I got from only 3 fans on top was plenty, and it simplified my wiring for the fan controller. I only had to double up on the first controller, the rest are just controlling one fan each. If you do run more than one fan per channel, make sure each channel has the same type of fans on it, or the RPM control will get screwed up. I am personally using the Cooler Master 120mm Blue LED fans (R4-L2R-20AC-GP), and have them running at between 900-1,100 RPM depending on my temps. The Kaze Server can automatically detect a rise in temps and rev up fan RPM to compensate. Let me know if you have any other questions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gutcheck Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 OK, I have everything connected and I am too chicken to fill it. The T is attached to the res just as your pic shows with a temp indicator now connected to my fan controller. My only question is, as I want fermi when it lands, how do you empty this thing? Do I need to save some tubing and a barb? Do you just connect the extra tube to the top to the T and it goes out? With this confit, it's a little hard to reach actually.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dallanar Posted October 29, 2009 Share Posted October 29, 2009 OK, I have everything connected and I am too chicken to fill it. The T is attached to the res just as your pic shows with a temp indicator now connected to my fan controller. My only question is, as I want fermi when it lands, how do you empty this thing? Do I need to save some tubing and a barb? Do you just connect the extra tube to the top to the T and it goes out? With this confit, it's a little hard to reach actually.... It really depends on what you are going to do. Are you going to get waterblocks for your new cards and water cool them? If so then you will have to almost dismantle the loop you are adding them to and run it to the cards then to the next component. You might need a little extra tubing to run from your pump to the new cards and then there are fittings that run from block to block on the video cards. These blocks exit the cards where you can again mount the tubing back to your original loop... Basically, you might need a longer pice of tubing to run from your pump/reservoir to your vid cards and you should have enough tubing left from your original loop to hook back up at the exit of the card blocks if that makes sense. As far as draining the system goes, there are several ways to do it but if you are going to wait for the Fermi, which is likely 3 - 5 months out, then you may want to drain the system as much as possible. You can do this by either opening the drain on your reservoir and tipping your case if you didn't install a drain line or by clamping the hose off like you would a garden hose on both sides of a cut then cut the tubing. You will get a little fluid from the line abd then you can easily drain the rest of the fluid from part of the loop with the remaining upper hose into a container after removing the clamp. I know it sound complicated but the fluid is non conductive, just put something down under the lines to soak up any fluid drained out and then open the clamps to the upper part of the hose to drain it into a container. At that point, you can run the new hose to the vid cards and then reattach the other end of the hose to the exit of the vid cards. Pay Particular attention to the 3rd picture down for the vid card arrangement: http://www.slizone.com/object/slizone_rotm_september09.html I am really not sure if I helped you out at all or confused you more. Let me know I can help at all. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Armageddon Posted October 29, 2009 Author Share Posted October 29, 2009 OK, I have everything connected and I am too chicken to fill it. The T is attached to the res just as your pic shows with a temp indicator now connected to my fan controller. My only question is, as I want fermi when it lands, how do you empty this thing? Do I need to save some tubing and a barb? Do you just connect the extra tube to the top to the T and it goes out? With this confit, it's a little hard to reach actually.... I have already filled, and emptied both loops once for an initial cleaning. Check out page 4 of this thread for more info on how I drain my system: http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1455259&page=4 There is a good discussion there and some pictures showing where I drain my system. It will change a bit once I get the new GT300 Series cards and Waterblocks. Also, if you use compression fittings like the BitsPower ones that I did, taking the tubing off for draining is really easy. I just undo the fittings where indicated in the above thread, and catch all the liquid with a container as it drains. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gutcheck Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 Wow that is more complicated then I hoped. So the T is basically there so we could install a temp meter then I suppose..... OK. I decided to just get 2 x 5850's and maybe wait six months to re-evaluate the graphics landscape. I have two EK blocks and one more 5850 landing here Monday. Here is where I am so far: http://img526.imageshack.us/img526/2585/img0601i.jpg http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/8311/img0603k.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gutcheck Posted October 30, 2009 Share Posted October 30, 2009 So, as you can see I am only building the loop for the vid cards (for now, this is kinda fun). So when it comes time to drain it, the compression fitting on the bottom of the lower vid card just pops off? doesn't a ton of fluid spill all over the place? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dallanar Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 Just pinch it above the fitting to get minimal leakage and then drain it into a bucket at the lowest point in the loop. To make it easier, you could install another "T" at the lowest part of the loop and just put a plug fitting in the end, then when you want to drain it, you pull the hose out of the case and hang it over a bucket and remove the drain plug. Easy then. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gutcheck Posted October 31, 2009 Share Posted October 31, 2009 Ohhhhh OK. That seems easy enough. It's all in the pinch.... Lol. Ok, I have two blocks. Do you really think I have to rinse them? I did rince my rad but these look so clean. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gutcheck Posted November 1, 2009 Share Posted November 1, 2009 Ok the moment of truth has arrived. My second 5850 and block lands tomorrow :o Some final stupid questions: 1) The pump. Mr A, did you just plut in the 12V plug? What is this blue one.... do I just leave it unplugged? Also, did you hold it vertical for the first test to make sure there is no air in there? Seems kinda overkill. 2) Cleaning. I rinsed the RAD with DI Water, and I will do the same with my pumps. Must I actually run the loop, drain it, and then fill it again? I'd rather not do this, but if I have to, I have to. Here is a pic of my sofisticated washing mechanism for the blocks. Use a funnel in, out the other side: http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/3356/img0605g.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Armageddon Posted November 1, 2009 Author Share Posted November 1, 2009 1) The pump. Mr A, did you just plut in the 12V plug? What is this blue one.... do I just leave it unplugged? Also, did you hold it vertical for the first test to make sure there is no air in there? Seems kinda overkill. 2) Cleaning. I rinsed the RAD with DI Water, and I will do the same with my pumps. Must I actually run the loop, drain it, and then fill it again? I'd rather not do this, but if I have to, I have to. The Blue cable coming out of the pump is to control the RPM of the pump with a fan controller. If you don't plan on controlling the RPM, don't worry about it. Cleaning the parts beforehand with Distilled Water should be enough. I didn't hold it vertical, but I did tip the case back to allow any trapped air bubbles to escape. Good luck on finishing your loops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gutcheck Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 I almost made a massive mistake. I had the pump shooting up to my res, instead of down to the card. I know the order isn't optimal but it will be pump->cards->rad->res->pump. Looks much cleaner too. http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/2096/img0606tb.jpg Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr_Armageddon Posted November 2, 2009 Author Share Posted November 2, 2009 I almost made a massive mistake. I had the pump shooting up to my res, instead of down to the card. I know the order isn't optimal but it will be pump->cards->rad->res->pump. That order works as long as the res is "draining" down into the pump, but looks like you go it figured out on your own. Nice and clean. Keep up the good work :headbang: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dallanar Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 I was looking at your loop and it looks like your rad in inside a 5.25 bay? I am guessing the rad is for the vid cards only so you will have another section of hose going from the vid cards back to the Rad? Nice looking build. Is that primochill red UV hose or Orange? Good luck with the vid cards, I thought about 5870's but I decided to wait for the 300s. Looks like you have it all figured out now, can't wait to see the final pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gutcheck Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 The Rad is up top top. Its a 3x120, you just can't see the hoses as the front one isn't conncected in that pic. Yes, MR A told me to use the primochill stuff and I must say it is really nice. I have some TIGHT turns in there and no kinks yet. I have the 5850's. I have to tell you they are pretty fast. I hear too that with the 9.11's they will be super fast. I guess the point is, they are fast enough for me.... I'll likely get fermi's but I want to wait and get them after their price falls as I am sure they will (so will these, but at 259 ea, it's not that bad of a buy). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dallanar Posted November 2, 2009 Share Posted November 2, 2009 Are the fitting towards the front instead of the back? I had to put mine in back because it got too crowded up front. Even now with the components and reservoirs up front, the front of the case is significantly heavier than the rear. I have all new Primochill Tubing on the way but I am waiting for vid cards before I do the change over and I have new UV lights coming as well. I am debating on UV LEDs or the UV CCFLs right now but it may be mute. I just saw where they have the new solid panels available for order now so I might go solid case on both sides. Anyway, nice and clean build. I look forward to pics of the finished project. My girlfriend named mine teh KRAKEN because it has 3 loops in essence and with one rad in the bottom and the main pump I had to drill two more 1" holes and run 4 tubes from the bottom so it looks like a colorful giant squid to her. /sigh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gutcheck Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Oh for the love of God!!!!!!!!!! Ok, I just realized I can't connect my vid cards. I have 2 compression fittings sitting here and I thought I could xfire / sli connect the waterblocks using them and some tubing. Does anyone know what to buy for this? I have bitspower fittings all over the place. From PCB to PCB it's almost exactly 1.5 inches apart. These? http://www.frozencpu.com/products/8566/ex-tub-448/Feser_Crossfire_SLI_Multi_Spacing_Fittings.html?tl=g30c101s873 Honestly this takes so much patience. Now that will take a week to get here..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gutcheck Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 Are the fitting towards the front instead of the back? I had to put mine in back because it got too crowded up front. Even now with the components and reservoirs up front, the front of the case is significantly heavier than the rear. I have all new Primochill Tubing on the way but I am waiting for vid cards before I do the change over and I have new UV lights coming as well. I am debating on UV LEDs or the UV CCFLs right now but it may be mute. I just saw where they have the new solid panels available for order now so I might go solid case on both sides. Anyway, nice and clean build. I look forward to pics of the finished project. My girlfriend named mine teh KRAKEN because it has 3 loops in essence and with one rad in the bottom and the main pump I had to drill two more 1" holes and run 4 tubes from the bottom so it looks like a colorful giant squid to her. /sigh This is again, where Mr A's awesom post saved my *****. Yes, they are both in front, but as Mr A discovered, it's tight. So, my fan controller is there. It is still tight, but it fits. LOL at the weight, I noticed that too. I think my blocks will fix that! I'm gonna need to wear a weight lifting belt to get this off my desk. I need lighting. Where are these solid panels? New red LED's installed in the res: http://img188.imageshack.us/img188/7451/img0609bm.jpg Nice name.... I'll have the wife name mine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dallanar Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 The new solid case side covers are at the Corsair Online store https://shop.corsair.com/store/item_view.aspx?id=1171683 As for using those fittings, they look like they will work but it depends on your block manuafacturer for your vid cards. They should have something available to fit them to hook them up to the loop. Basically the hard fittings go from card to card and the loop is hooked up on the outsides of the dual card setup. Who made your block? And yeah you can lay the best laid plan only to find you are short a 10 dollar piece or something and you want it together now. It took me a month to get mine together but I was only doing my mods on the weekends. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gutcheck Posted November 3, 2009 Share Posted November 3, 2009 The blocks are these: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9905/ex-blc-688/EK_Radeon_HD_5850_VGA_Liquid_Cooling_Block_-_Acetal_EK-FC5850-Acetal_.html?tl=g30c309s1050 All I need is the card to card connection. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dallanar Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 I can't be positive but you can email Jeff at Frozen CPU and he can tell you for sure. Those look like they will work though. I wish EK had a set for your blocks so you knew for sure though. I looked at Performance-PC and they listed these as options for SLI Install http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=342&products_id=24980 Good Luck Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gutcheck Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 Frozen CPU advised this, shipped today: http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9342/koo-177/Koolance_Dual_VID_Connector_-_Adjustable_1_Slot_Spacing_CNT-VDA2_.html?tl=g30c101s873 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dallanar Posted November 4, 2009 Share Posted November 4, 2009 That should work and then use your compression fittings on the outsides or barbs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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