Build Log – Corsair Obsidian 800D Liquid Cooled Dual Loop System

[gutcheck]

Mr A can I ask you for a huge favor? I am basically trying to copy your awesome work here, but where did you put your T fitting? I can't see it in the pics. Can you get a shot for us? That may be the best PC I have ever seen in my life.

[Mr_Armageddon]

Mr A can I ask you for a huge favor? I am basically trying to copy your awesome work here, but where did you put your T fitting? I can't see it in the pics. Can you get a shot for us? That may be the best PC I have ever seen in my life.

 

The T-Block is installed directly into the reservoir for both loops. The Temp sensor is installed on the top port of the T-Block. Installation is a follows:

 

Tubing => Fitting => T-Block => Male to Male G 1/4 Fitting => Reservoir

 

I have attached a picture to better explain the location. Let me know if you have any more questions.

[Dallanar]

Dallanar,

 

The webpage I found for the Akasa All In One 2 here http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=BB-004-AK shows a product that doesn't seem deep enough to work with the 800D's toolless mounting for drives. Was this an issue for you?

 

Even though the case is tooless, it still has holes for screws. It is small so I mounted it using two screws on top so I have something under it for stability but it is secruely screwed into both sides. I did have to remove the toolless bracket in order to remove the unit but I can snap it back on after I am finished putting it in and hooking it up.

I like it because I can controll 3 sets of fans (Akasa also has the adapter cables for 4 fans per control circuit)(auto or manual), has 3 temp probes (with warning/alerts), Can fit XD cards including the micros, and has extra USB plugs and an ESata connection and it hides it all pretty nicely behind a hinged mesh door.

Card reader and fan controllers are really up to the builder's preference. My main goal was to have the card reader built in and hidden. I had even considered finding a way to mod one of the hotswap bays to install one. If I had done that, then I would have likely gone with the Sentry 2 or the one Mr Armageddon went with as a second choice. But the Akasa fit the bill for what I wanted and had good reviews for a compact all in one unit and beside not being flush with the front (sticks out enough for the door to swing open) it fit the bill.

If you want a hidden built in card reader, there aren't many choices out there. Just giving input on what I found as an option.

[gutcheck]

Ok, I think I have a good understanding now of at least how to assemble the parts.

 

Mr A, can I bother you for some other questions? What is the order on the GPU loop where you put your fittings? Also, can you link, or tell me the store if it is not illegal here where you got them? I've checked several and I can't find everything at one place (all the fittings).

 

Ok, now for my really dumb questions.

 

1) How did you first turn it on? Do you just build it in the case, pour the coolant in there and let it rip? I would be scared to do this with a CPU, but with a GPU maybe it is OK? Did you test the loops by building them outside first?

 

2) Does that pump somehow mount in the bay or is it just loose? Did you have to do some mods to mount it?

 

Thanks so much! And btw, WC'ing is expensive. We can use almost all these parts on future GPU's though (I hope) except possibly the Waterblock, but each of these loops must have set you back 400 bones or so.... it's fun though.

[Synthohol]

see my quote below.

the order of components in a loop is irrelevant, whatever has the least amount of bends or tubing. the temps will balance out in a matter of an hour or so.

 

as far as leak testing? prolly best to hold the MB in with 1 screw, dryfit all your parts and tubing in place then remove the board and fill the system and let run for a day and check for leaks.

 

ive done many water cooled systems and i have enough confidence that i just put it all together and fill it. but thats me, i trust my zipties and good quality tubing.

 

BTW, AWESOME rig Mr. A!!

[x509]

Even though the case is tooless, it still has holes for screws. It is small so I mounted it using two screws on top so I have something under it for stability but it is secruely screwed into both sides. I did have to remove the toolless bracket in order to remove the unit but I can snap it back on after I am finished putting it in and hooking it up.

 

Dallanar,

 

Thanks for this information. It addresses one of my concerns.

 

I downloaded the user manual for this case, and I don't remember reading anything about being able to remove the toolless bracket and mounting a device using screws. (Minor bad for Corsair. :p:)

But it's almost like the designers of this case thought of all the possible "use cases" ( bad pun, but that's the right term for a product manager or engineer) for people who would buy it. :biggrin:

 

I like it because I can controll 3 sets of fans (Akasa also has the adapter cables for 4 fans per control circuit)(auto or manual), has 3 temp probes (with warning/alerts), Can fit XD cards including the micros, and has extra USB plugs and an ESata connection and it hides it all pretty nicely behind a hinged mesh door.

 

I think I'm also going to want a fan controller, so I don't try to overload the motherboard with fan controls. And I will also want a card reader with CF and SD formats (for digital cameras), and of course, an eSATA connection.

 

Card reader and fan controllers are really up to the builder's preference. My main goal was to have the card reader built in and hidden. I had even considered finding a way to mod one of the hotswap bays to install one.

 

I too would want the card reader built-in, but modding one of the hotswap bays would have been too much. This is better.

 

For me, the key point is that I know I can use any drive bay device I choose, without worrying about how to mount it.

[wayneli613]

nice man!!

[JustinHEMI]

Very well done sir!

[Dallanar]

I should get the remainder of my parts this weekend and I should finish my bottom mount radiator also. I will post a build log and pics as soon as I can get to it. I am still trying to work out how to make it roll forward and back by remote controll for Wired. I have been visiting some robotics sites and I am gonna swing by my local hobby center before the weekend also. I have some ideas but I have to figure out mounting for two high torque motors and a remote controll circuit.

 

I have some pics in the gallery with the card reader installed but I am missing one reservoir so it looks kinda dorky with a big missing unit in the front.

[gutcheck]

I hope this is not illegal, but are these the fittings you used on the GPU loop (minus the 4 3/8 compression fittings which I found at Microcenter):

 

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25663

 

 

 

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22951:06058b6c3e5903f7c1ea7a6d483b23e9

 

 

 

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24759

 

 

 

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=24862

 

 

 

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22622

[Dallanar]

I believe he used Black Sparkle fittings. I am using the black sparkles also.

 

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=25668

 

That is one of them I used. Mr Armageddon is running 3/8 tubing I think due to his pump configuration. I don't know his exat fittings since I didn't double check his tubing size.

[gutcheck]

I too, have the 3/8 Primochill tubing and am gonig to use the same pump. I already have the non black sparkle compression fittings, but do those fittings look like they would work? I'm using all the same components (except the RAD) as Mr A because this is my first loop.

[Mr_Armageddon]

I did use the Black Sparkle compression fittings for 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD mentioned above. They have the 45 degree angle and the rotary fittings. They were necessary in some of the parts of the case were I needed a really tight bend, or had to rotate the tubing.

 

For the rest of the compression fittings I used normal Bitsposer compression fittings for 3/8" ID, 5/8" OD. I would like to have used Black Sparkle throughout, but I couldn't find any normal compression fittings for my specific size of tubing. Once installed inside the case you can't tell a difference between the two.

 

On my reservoirs, I used the following:

 

Bitspower G 1/4in. Silver Shining Fitting for 3/8in. Tubing

 

Bitspower Crystal T-Block

 

Bitspower G 1/4in. Temperature Sensor Stop Fitting

 

Bitspower G 1/4 Silver Diamond Dual G 1/4 Fitting

 

This picture should give you a better idea of how it went together in that area of the build.

 

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2667/3976360763_14e9e47d52.jpg

 

I was planning on using compression fittings here as well, but it was just too tight and too many tubing bends for my hands to get in there and twist away, so I just used the barbs. They are fat enough where they don't require any clamps, so it made installation pretty easy.

[gutcheck]

Oh man you are the best!

 

Thanks for all this. Parts ordered. I'm off to Hawaii for two weeks but when I get back I'll build the loop. I'm totally obsessed with this I have dreams about it. LOL.

[Mr_Armageddon]

I had a chance to Overclock everything and recorded some temps for those who were asking for them.

 

With a CPU OC @ 4.25GHz, my temps for loop 1 are as follows:

 

• CPU - 61 C
  
• ChipSet - 62 C
  
• VREGs - 54 C
  

 

These results were recorded after 30 minutes of a CPU burn with Prime95.

 

I was able to reduce these temps even lower, but it was by cranking up the fan speeds, which for me kind of defeats the purpose of a quiet, liquid cooled PC. The temps above were recorded with the Rad Fans @ 1,100 RPM which is barley noticeable. At 1,500 RPM the temps go down, but they are a bit loud loud for my taste.

 

On loop 2, my OC'd 8800Ultra @ 715MHz, 1250MHz RAM never got above 55 C during a stress test using both ATI Tool, and rthdribl. Obviously only having one card on the loop is making it pretty easy to stay cool. It will be interesting to see what temps the GPUs will maintain when I throw two GT300 series cards on it in SLI. Hurry up and release the new cards already Nvidia :D

[gutcheck]

Those temps are really good. I too, can not wait for SLI GT300's. Some day, I will WC my CPU proper, but right now I am too chicken to do the second radiator mod.

 

In other news, can I ask a simple question? Does that pump mount in the case somehow without buying any additional misc items?

[Mr_Armageddon]

Those temps are really good. I too, can not wait for SLI GT300's. Some day, I will WC my CPU proper, but right now I am too chicken to do the second radiator mod.

 

In other news, can I ask a simple question? Does that pump mount in the case somehow without buying any additional misc items?

 

It comes with a foam mounting pad that has adhesive on both sides as well as bolts and nuts if you want to go that route. The pad is about 1/4 thick. If you need something thinner like I did, use double sided mounting tape.

[gutcheck]

I hate to keep bothering you, but after reading this thread:

 

http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=37&threadid=2005078&enterthread=y

 

I got a little scared. I am going to use the exact same parts as you, and I think I have it all now. The only difference is I am using a cheaper swiftech 3 x 120 radiator. My loop will be GPU only, and the radiator will be up top, so the flow will be slightly different too. Can you maybe explain a bit how you tested the loop first for leaks? Also, how did you fill and turn on the fist time? Did you just add the coolant to your res and fire it up or is there a process you can recommend to explain simply how you fill and bleed the loop?

 

I'm sorry again, but your help is really appriciated and hopefully other noobs are reading this and learning too.

[Mr_Armageddon]

I hate to keep bothering you, but after reading this thread:

 

http://forums.anandtech.com/messageview.aspx?catid=37&threadid=2005078&enterthread=y

 

I got a little scared...

 

Although that guide is very informative, it turns a fairly simple process into a drawn-out, complicated procedure. Its really not that difficult.

 

• Rinse out the blocks and radiator with Distilled Water. I have found on occasion little metal shards inside some of the components, so its a good idea to give your parts a good rinsing. You can also rinse out the tubing if you want to.
   
  
• Leak testing can be done in a variety of ways. Some swear that you should do it outside of the case. I personally think that it isn't necessary and increases your workload, so I leak test inside the case once everything has been installed and setup. Be sure to hand tighten all of the fittings first, then line under all the areas where leaks could occur with paper towel.
   
  
• Fill Your Reservoir with your liquid. I would recommend only doing 1 loop at a time, so make sure the pump on the second loop isn't powered yet. Top it off, but be sure to keep more liquid easily and quickly accessible because if your loop is anything like mine, the res will drain quickly and need more liquid. Since your pump is lower than your res, water should begin to drain down into the pump, then on to other parts of your system if they are lower. Let this occur, the top off the res again.
   
  
• Once you are sure that liquid has drained into your pump (never run a pump dry, even for a short test, always make sure it has been primed with liquid), you can switch the system on. The res will drain quickly so get ready to fill it up almost as soon as you hit the power switch.
   
  
• Once you have filled the res a few times and the liquid has leveled out, leave the top of the res, and start checking for leaks. If you use colors liquid like I do, the leaks will show up easily on white paper towels. If you hand tighten everything well, you probably won't see a thing. If there are a few drops of liquid, don't freak out. Just tighten the fitting and make sure the leak stops. If you don't see any more leaks, top of the res again, and let the bleeding process begin. Below is a picture of me leak testing one of my older liquid cooled systems that I refer to as my "Ghetto Rig". It was a good case when I bought it over 2 years ago, but holds nothing next to the 800D.
   
  http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2545/4006000033_20c06bbbcb.jpg
   
  
• If you have the same reservoirs that I do, this process is really easy. They are designed to trap the air bubbles as they come into the radiator and don't allow them to go back into the loop. With the XSPC reservoirs the process took no time at all. I would occasionally flick the tubes and watch little bubbles pass by, but I was done bleeding and leak testing after just 20 min.
  

 

That is pretty much the whole process. Leak testing shouldn't take hours. Bitspower fittings have nice big O-Rings, so as long as they are tight, no leaks will pop up. I used an entire 32oz Coolant bottle for each loop, and plan to drain and flush out the system every 6 months, which is also an easy process.

 

Obviously there is more work involved in a liquid cooled system over air-cooled, but the advantages are worth it. After the initial setup, it calls for maintenance every six months that will take you at max, one hour. Sounds good to me.

[gutcheck]

Man I can't thank you enough. I can handle that. So "bleeding" is basically running the loop and getting all the air out, which consists of simply running the loop and looking for air bubbles. This is great. OK, I will do this as soon as I get home. These fittings are REALLY secure, I can't see them leaking, but with my luck.......

[gutcheck]

So what about this mixing metals thing? The only metal in the whole loop is the block, the rad and the fittings I think.... does that really matter? My rad is the siftech 120m x 3 rad.... I haven't chosen a block yet (or a vid card for that matter).

 

So you went with the primochill fluid. I will do the same, but are we sure it won't clog our loops?

[Dallanar]

I take it you are talking about the chemical reactions of different metals? This only occurs when the metals are actually touching each other and even then it takes a very long time to do any damage. I do not think there is any problems associated with this in a water cooling setup. You have the rad with fittings and the blocks with fittings but computer equipment gets upgraded usually every couple of years based on new market arrivals and the desires of a lot of us to have the really good stuff so I wouldn't worry about it. I am no chemical scientist by any means but I did work with a lot of different metals while in the military, some metals react quicker than others but I don't see any problems in the computer component arena with it.

As for clogging the system, you should do maintenance on the system every 6 months or so. I have heard of some fluids reacting poorly with acrylic materials but primochil is one of the main companies in water cooling. Just make sure you get some Petra PT Nuke or Silver coil or some kind of biocide to prevent critters.

[Mr_Armageddon]

So what about this mixing metals thing? The only metal in the whole loop is the block, the rad and the fittings I think.... does that really matter? My rad is the siftech 120m x 3 rad.... I haven't chosen a block yet (or a vid card for that matter).

 

So you went with the primochill fluid. I will do the same, but are we sure it won't clog our loops?

 

PrimoChill Ice already has additives that take care of the issues you mentioned. Right from their website:

 

• Non-Conductive.
  
• Special corrosive inhibiting ingredients to prevent sludge build up and galvanic corrosion.
  
• Special broad-spectrum antimicrobial agent, helps keep your cooling loop pristine.
  
• Safe on all plastics, rubbers, and miscellaneous gasket materials.
  

 

It's really good coolant, looks great, and isn't too expensive.

[Dallanar]

I run Distilled Water so hence the need for the biocide agent. Primochill has it already in the fluid.

[gutcheck]

OK guys, I ordered all my fittings. So I have a total of 4 compression fittiings, 2 45 degree angle rotary fittings for my RAD, 2 barbs and a male to male and a crystal T. So, Mr A the barbs go on the res? Did you actually fix compression fittings to the pump? From the pix the pump looks like it needs no fittings, just a clamp as it has two plastic barbs. Is this incorrect? Maybe you pre-bought the two extra compression fittings for your second gfx card?

 

In other news I am really tempted to jump the gun on 2 5870's. I won't though, until I hear the benchmark results for fermi.