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Keep PUMP Performance mode without Corsair Link running


x7007
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I don't want to use Corsair Link but there is one thing that doesn't work without it is the PUMP mode, if I put Performance mode every windows restart if the Corsair Link doesn't run one time it stays on Quiet mode.

 

Is there a way to keep it on performance mode without Corsair Link ?

 

Also I know the PUMP is on the wrong mode because I changed the LED Color to BLUE when it's on Performance mode so without the program running it stays White at default which is Balanced/Quiet

Edited by x7007
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I don't want to use Corsair Link but there is one thing that doesn't work without it is the PUMP mode, if I put Performance mode every windows restart if the Corsair Link doesn't run one time it stays on Quiet mode.

 

Is there a way to keep it on performance mode without Corsair Link ?

 

Also I know the PUMP is on the wrong mode because I changed the LED Color to BLUE when it's on Performance mode so without the program running it stays White at default which is Balanced/Quiet

 

You should be able to save pump settings in the "Devices" window. It'll be along the lines of "Keep Current Settings as Default". Let me know if that works!

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You should be able to save pump settings in the "Devices" window. It'll be along the lines of "Keep Current Settings as Default". Let me know if that works!

 

 

LoL , Yes ! I just figured it out !! even before seeing your message .. hahha I am restarting and will check

 

Why did you hide it so well ! just put it on somewhere

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Seems to work after windows restart and Corsair Link doesn't running !

 

Can I uninstall Corsair Link and Delete Corsair USBXp Driver and it will still work ?

 

You should be able to if you'd rather not have Link running.

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Seems to work after windows restart and Corsair Link doesn't running !

 

Can I uninstall Corsair Link and Delete Corsair USBXp Driver and it will still work ?

 

Yes, the settings are on the device. I'm not sure that you'll be able to remove the driver; Windows will still pick up the device unless you unplug it from USB entirely.

I would, however, question the wisdom of doing that. Even if you don't run Link all the time, you won't be able to monitor the device at all. And make sure that you have the fan header set to 100% before you do that.

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Yes, the settings are on the device. I'm not sure that you'll be able to remove the driver; Windows will still pick up the device unless you unplug it from USB entirely.

I would, however, question the wisdom of doing that. Even if you don't run Link all the time, you won't be able to monitor the device at all. And make sure that you have the fan header set to 100% before you do that.

 

What could go wrong if I don't monitor it ? I've set it to monitor the CPU Package #1 which is the the real CPU temp . It will still work as expected without the USB driver ? right ? I also set Custom Fan Curve in the Corsair Link which seems to work . If uninstalling the USBExp driver, windows won't install it again as long you don't run the Corsair Link Installer. I prefer not to unplug it incase I might want to install and change settings again . so Uninstalling the driver is the faster way for it not to work but still be available when it needs to.

Edited by x7007
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What could go wrong if I don't monitor it ? I've set it to monitor the CPU Package #1 which is the the real CPU temp . It will still work as expected without the USB driver ? right ?

 

That will not work. The only way that you'll get hardware-based playback is if the values are from the hardware itself ... the pump.

 

Furthermore, when dealing with liquid cooling, the fan speed really should be based on the coolant temperature, not on the CPU temperature. The fans do not cool the CPU ... they cool the coolant, which then cools the CPU. The coolant will warm up and cool down slower than the CPU. It also won't get as warm as the CPU.

 

And what could go wrong? Who knows. Any number of things. In particular, pump failure and you'd have no way of knowing about it.

 

Also, if you use other monitoring software (I'm a fan of HWInfo, personally), they will monitor the pump as long as you don't have Link running AND you have the driver installed. But ... they still won't control the pump based on CPU temperature. I understand why some folks might not want to run Link ... but why you'd go so far as to remove the driver and not be able to monitor anything? I think that's just naive and foolhardy. But then ... I'm one of those guys that continually monitors their system so that may be a bit biased. ;):

 

And you did make sure that the fan header that the pump is attached to is at 100%, right? What are your pump RPMs at idle?

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That will not work. The only way that you'll get hardware-based playback is if the values are from the hardware itself ... the pump.

 

Furthermore, when dealing with liquid cooling, the fan speed really should be based on the coolant temperature, not on the CPU temperature. The fans do not cool the CPU ... they cool the coolant, which then cools the CPU. The coolant will warm up and cool down slower than the CPU. It also won't get as warm as the CPU.

 

And what could go wrong? Who knows. Any number of things. In particular, pump failure and you'd have no way of knowing about it.

 

Also, if you use other monitoring software (I'm a fan of HWInfo, personally), they will monitor the pump as long as you don't have Link running AND you have the driver installed. But ... they still won't control the pump based on CPU temperature. I understand why some folks might not want to run Link ... but why you'd go so far as to remove the driver and not be able to monitor anything? I think that's just naive and foolhardy. But then ... I'm one of those guys that continually monitors their system so that may be a bit biased. ;):

 

And you did make sure that the fan header that the pump is attached to is at 100%, right? What are your pump RPMs at idle?

 

 

For me the PUMP says the CPU is 31 C and never go pass that . also the FANS doesn't go any higher if the it goes by the pump. do you see what is my issue ?

 

Also when the PUMP is on QUIET it is never going pass 1980 RPM when on LOAD , IDLE is between 1000 - 800 rpm . while Performance keep it above 2500 rpm all the time.

 

If the FANS should go by the PUMP then the CPU could reach 100 and the fans won't even care cause the PUMP always stays 31 C ... so I can't understand what is wrong.. The Pump sensor ?

 

Let's say I won't uninstall the Driver .. What do I need to set for properly Coolant performance and quietness ? because the PUMP stays cools while the CPU gets hot and the FANs doesn't know because the PUMP stays 31-33 C . where could the issue be ?

 

It's the 115i TR4

AMD 1950x

 

If using like this the FANS never go up in rpm..... making my computer freeze.

 

Can you help ?

 

 

Cm6ZYEp.jpg

Edited by x7007
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For me the PUMP says the CPU is 31 C and never go pass that . also the FANS doesn't go any higher if the it goes by the pump. do you see what is my issue ?

 

The temperature for the pump is showing the temperature of the liquid coolant. Not the CPU. The fans will go higher as the coolant warms up. This is by design and how it should work. Think about how this actually works. Do the fans cool the CPU? No, they do not. What do they cool? The coolant flowing through the radiator. Having the fans based on CPU temperature is pointless; the relationship is indirect.

 

Also when the PUMP is on QUIET it is never going pass 1980 RPM when on LOAD , IDLE is between 1000 - 800 rpm . while Performance keep it above 2500 rpm all the time.

 

The pump speeds are typically pretty constant. Now, you say you have the 115i and, IIRC, that one is SATA powered so it's hard to have it powered incorrectly. If it isn't SATA powered, then you need to set that fan header to 100%/Full Power. We typically see low pump speeds (under ~1900 RPM) when the pump is not powered properly.

 

If the FANS should go by the PUMP then the CPU could reach 100 and the fans won't even care cause the PUMP always stays 31 C ... so I can't understand what is wrong.. The Pump sensor ?

 

The pump will typically pump at a constant RPM based on Quiet or Performance. It doesn't change speeds like the fans do. On my system, at least, I've not noticed any difference at all in cooling with Quiet vs Performance. Now, assuming your pump is powered correctly and the coolant still isn't warming up as the CPU is under load (and it will be slow to warm up ... and, assuming that your cooling system is set up correctly with proper intake and exhaust, will likely never get over 45C, if it even gets that high) then you have a contact issue. Either you have it mounted incorrectly or too much TIM or too little TIM ... or something.

 

For comparison ... on my 7700K at 5.1 Ghz, I'll run it under full load doing encoding for hours on end. My max CPU temp will hit around 80C. It'll average in the low 70's. With the 115i PRO, my coolant temp doesn't get above ~35.5C. With my previous H100iV2, it got a little warmer ... about 38.4C. Granted, they 7700K, even overclocked, doesn't create as much heat as your Threadripper ... so you'll see a couple of degrees higher. But the coolant will never get as warm as the CPU under load unless something is really, really, really wrong. And, if your system is configured for proper cooling, you'll hit an equilibrium point where the coolant just doesn't get any warmer. For me, that's about 12C above ambient.

 

Let's say I won't uninstall the Driver .. What do I need to set for properly Coolant performance and quietness ? because the PUMP stays cools while the CPU gets hot and the FANs doesn't know because the PUMP stays 31-33 C . where could the issue be ?

 

It's the 115i TR4

AMD 1950x

 

First, as stated above, it takes time ... a good deal of time ... for the coolant to warm up. That's because the thermal capacity (or specific heat) of the liquid is much higher than the specific heat of air or the CPU. If your system is configured properly, it'll take 20-30 minutes for you to reach your equilibrium point under load. When the system returns to idle, you can expect the coolant temperature to drop about .1C/minute (or so) ... while your CPU drops almost instantly. It takes your coolant a good deal longer to return to idle temp than it does your CPU. If your coolant doesn't warm up ... well, are you doing it long enough? Five minutes won't do it. The physics don't compute. Is your CPU getting too warm? Well, then I'd look at a contact issue. With a pump issue, you'll see the pump temperature increase rapidly with the CPU. That seems to be what you are expecting but, to be honest, that's a sure-fire sign of a problem.

 

Second, if you really insist on running your fans by CPU temperature, then not only do you need the driver, you need to run Link all the time. Without Link, the pump has no way of "knowing" the CPU temperature. It can measure the temperature of the coolant, though ... so that's what it'll work based on.

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The FANS stay 900 RPM even when I put CPU LOAD ...... they don't go up when it's h115i TEMP .... It's impossible for me to use this setting/

 

They don't go up because it's set incorrectly. Start with the Balanced or Performance profile on the pump. See how they top out at around 40C? There's a reason for that. The coolant's specific heat means that it takes more heat for it to warm up. And it takes longer for it to cool down.

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The temperature for the pump is showing the temperature of the liquid coolant. Not the CPU. The fans will go higher as the coolant warms up. This is by design and how it should work. Think about how this actually works. Do the fans cool the CPU? No, they do not. What do they cool? The coolant flowing through the radiator. Having the fans based on CPU temperature is pointless; the relationship is indirect.

 

 

 

The pump speeds are typically pretty constant. Now, you say you have the 115i and, IIRC, that one is SATA powered so it's hard to have it powered incorrectly. If it isn't SATA powered, then you need to set that fan header to 100%/Full Power. We typically see low pump speeds (under ~1900 RPM) when the pump is not powered properly.

 

 

 

The pump will typically pump at a constant RPM based on Quiet or Performance. It doesn't change speeds like the fans do. On my system, at least, I've not noticed any difference at all in cooling with Quiet vs Performance. Now, assuming your pump is powered correctly and the coolant still isn't warming up as the CPU is under load (and it will be slow to warm up ... and, assuming that your cooling system is set up correctly with proper intake and exhaust, will likely never get over 45C, if it even gets that high) then you have a contact issue. Either you have it mounted incorrectly or too much TIM or too little TIM ... or something.

 

For comparison ... on my 7700K at 5.1 Ghz, I'll run it under full load doing encoding for hours on end. My max CPU temp will hit around 80C. It'll average in the low 70's. With the 115i PRO, my coolant temp doesn't get above ~35.5C. With my previous H100iV2, it got a little warmer ... about 38.4C. Granted, they 7700K, even overclocked, doesn't create as much heat as your Threadripper ... so you'll see a couple of degrees higher. But the coolant will never get as warm as the CPU under load unless something is really, really, really wrong. And, if your system is configured for proper cooling, you'll hit an equilibrium point where the coolant just doesn't get any warmer. For me, that's about 12C above ambient.

 

 

 

First, as stated above, it takes time ... a good deal of time ... for the coolant to warm up. That's because the thermal capacity (or specific heat) of the liquid is much higher than the specific heat of air or the CPU. If your system is configured properly, it'll take 20-30 minutes for you to reach your equilibrium point under load. When the system returns to idle, you can expect the coolant temperature to drop about .1C/minute (or so) ... while your CPU drops almost instantly. It takes your coolant a good deal longer to return to idle temp than it does your CPU. If your coolant doesn't warm up ... well, are you doing it long enough? Five minutes won't do it. The physics don't compute. Is your CPU getting too warm? Well, then I'd look at a contact issue. With a pump issue, you'll see the pump temperature increase rapidly with the CPU. That seems to be what you are expecting but, to be honest, that's a sure-fire sign of a problem.

 

Second, if you really insist on running your fans by CPU temperature, then not only do you need the driver, you need to run Link all the time. Without Link, the pump has no way of "knowing" the CPU temperature. It can measure the temperature of the coolant, though ... so that's what it'll work based on.

 

Thanks for everything, but what you are saying counteract of what happening.

 

I already tried to reseat the cpu the first time, I even replaced it with Aractic Cooling 5 TIM and reseated again .

 

The thing that actually happens. on the screenshot you see the PUMP

 

the PUMP Temp the FAN RPM PUMP RPM .

 

now when the PUMP is on Quiet it is always using 1000-950 RPM of kinda.

When the pump is on performance it is using 2500 RPM and above all the times.

 

Now if I put LOAD on the CPU the only thing that make noise is a fan or the pump , I just hear a lot of noise and I'm not sure which it is . But the Pump Temp / FANs RPM / PUMP RPM doesn't change .....

 

And please you cannot even compare 7700K Overclocked to 6 GHZ to a TR4 1950x. this is a CPU with 16 CORES and 16 HT . and also the Corsair cooling socket doesn't fit 100% , so from general build the cooling is not fit for this kind of CPU . overall from building and configuration everything is correct. it is SATA powered and the fans are connected to the Y connector of the PUMP . Without the Corsair Link everything just works as normal . I understand that the FANS doesn't turn up because they are not supposed to because they supposed to cool the radiator , but the pump temp never go up enough for it to spin faster.

 

The Corsair H115i is just not strong enough for the TR4 because of the heatsink area , it touch it in circle and not all of it.

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Thanks for everything, but what you are saying counteract of what happening.

 

I already tried to reseat the cpu the first time, I even replaced it with Aractic Cooling 5 TIM and reseated again .

 

The thing that actually happens. on the screenshot you see the PUMP

 

the PUMP Temp the FAN RPM PUMP RPM .

Yes, and what I'm telling you is that your curve is too wide. Your pump shouldn't get that high. Reset it to one of the default curves.

 

now when the PUMP is on Quiet it is always using 1000-950 RPM of kinda.

When the pump is on performance it is using 2500 RPM and above all the times.

 

Pump RPMs are typically constant. Period. And that seems low if it's your pump RPM. Now ... 900 RPM for the fans? Sure, that I can see. In fact, that's what I do see on your screen shot.

 

Now if I put LOAD on the CPU the only thing that make noise is a fan or the pump , I just hear a lot of noise and I'm not sure which it is . But the Pump Temp / FANs RPM / PUMP RPM doesn't change .....

 

The pump temp should change. You won't see much of a change in 5 minutes. It will change slowly; that's just the physics of the situation. You can argue with me until you are blue in the face but the wonderful thing about physics and science is that it's true regardless of what you believe. And if it doesn't change at all, you have a contact issue. Just because you reseated it doesn't mean you reseated it properly. Just because you used a good TIM doesn't mean you used it properly. Now ... I can't tell you one way or another if it's seated properly without physically examining it. But what I can tell you ... with certainty ... is what you should see if you have proper contact. Period. Regardless of the CPU. Because of the physics involved.

 

Now, in your screen shot, your temps look fine. But that's also at idle. I'd also say that your fan curve is misconfigured ... you need to ramp up to 100% fan far lower than you are, say around 40-45C. That looks like you max out around 50-55C. And, with that curve, with the coolant at 30C (which it is), what you see is correct.

 

And please you cannot even compare 7700K Overclocked to 6 GHZ to a TR4 1950x. this is a CPU with 16 CORES and 16 HT . and also the Corsair cooling socket doesn't fit 100% , so from general build the cooling is not fit for this kind of CPU . overall from building and configuration everything is correct. it is SATA powered and the fans are connected to the Y connector of the PUMP . Without the Corsair Link everything just works as normal . I understand that the FANS doesn't turn up because they are not supposed to because they supposed to cool the radiator , but the pump temp never go up enough for it to spin faster.

 

You have that TR4 at 6Ghz? Really? If that's the case, you better be doing LN2, not messing with water cooling ... at all.

 

And while the 7700K won't put off as much heat as the TR4, the PHYSICS are the same. Thermodynamics is thermodynamics is thermodynamics. The process of cooling works exactly the same. You'll see higher temps ... but the process and the configuration is the same.

 

The Corsair H115i is just not strong enough for the TR4 because of the heatsink area , it touch it in circle and not all of it.

 

At 6Ghz? No, it's not. There's not a liquid cooler in existence that will cool a TR4 @ 6 Ghz. According to AMD, the H115i is enough for a stock TR4. I assume that they know what they are talking about when it comes to the TR4 but YMMV. You may or may not be able to overclock it. But since you're running at 6Ghz, you'll need a pretty constant supply of LN2.

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Yes, and what I'm telling you is that your curve is too wide. Your pump shouldn't get that high. Reset it to one of the default curves.

 

 

 

Pump RPMs are typically constant. Period. And that seems low if it's your pump RPM. Now ... 900 RPM for the fans? Sure, that I can see. In fact, that's what I do see on your screen shot.

 

 

 

The pump temp should change. You won't see much of a change in 5 minutes. It will change slowly; that's just the physics of the situation. You can argue with me until you are blue in the face but the wonderful thing about physics and science is that it's true regardless of what you believe. And if it doesn't change at all, you have a contact issue. Just because you reseated it doesn't mean you reseated it properly. Just because you used a good TIM doesn't mean you used it properly. Now ... I can't tell you one way or another if it's seated properly without physically examining it. But what I can tell you ... with certainty ... is what you should see if you have proper contact. Period. Regardless of the CPU. Because of the physics involved.

 

Now, in your screen shot, your temps look fine. But that's also at idle. I'd also say that your fan curve is misconfigured ... you need to ramp up to 100% fan far lower than you are, say around 40-45C. That looks like you max out around 50-55C. And, with that curve, with the coolant at 30C (which it is), what you see is correct.

 

 

 

You have that TR4 at 6Ghz? Really? If that's the case, you better be doing LN2, not messing with water cooling ... at all.

 

And while the 7700K won't put off as much heat as the TR4, the PHYSICS are the same. Thermodynamics is thermodynamics is thermodynamics. The process of cooling works exactly the same. You'll see higher temps ... but the process and the configuration is the same.

 

 

 

At 6Ghz? No, it's not. There's not a liquid cooler in existence that will cool a TR4 @ 6 Ghz. According to AMD, the H115i is enough for a stock TR4. I assume that they know what they are talking about when it comes to the TR4 but YMMV. You may or may not be able to overclock it. But since you're running at 6Ghz, you'll need a pretty constant supply of LN2.

 

 

The noise it makes with the fan curve is not properly for me, it makes too much noise.

 

by 6 ghz I didn't mean my CPU is 6 Ghz . it's 3.7 Ghz . I tried to compare your 7700K speed 4 Cores with 4 HT to 16 Cores 16 HT . even if you overclock your 7700K to 6 Ghz it wouldn't compared to the heat the TR4 at 4 Ghz .

 

Not arguing , just saying some facts that the H115i have no FULL Covering for TR4 cpus .. that's what everyone said to me at overclock.net . I understand the way you say about the water to heat up , but Prime95 with FULL LOAD SMALL FFT is too hard for this cpu with this cooling , that's all . For games it barely move it. not saying it's not enough for normal use, but it's not enough for FULL LOAD for long period of times.

 

I get everything you say , but I am 100% that I physically put the Heatsink and followed all the guides with the TIM and it can't be any better, maybe but just maybe 3-4 degrees better . but we are seeing some more than that here.

 

I read the experience from other people at overclock.net , it's the same, after 5 min of prime95 FFT the CPU Package TEMP start to go up to 80 C even more . with the same cooling, and no matter what TIM it happens to all H115i with 1920x or 1950x . I wanted a 360 or 4xx Radiator for this cpu . I just didn't know , but I will replace the H115i with the properly made TR4 socket .

 

like this https://www.newegg.com/global/il/Product/Product.aspx?item=9SIA24G6F18823

 

It is also said specifically

 

100% sTR4 IHS Coverage

Exclusive for AMD sTR4 Platform

Support 500W+ TDP

For High-end, Overclocked CPUs

Edited by x7007
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You can change the cooler if you like and there it may be compelling for aesthetic reasons alone. However, it will not change the results you are getting with Prime 95. You can put on a 360, a 480, or a 2 meter long external cooling apparatus, and all of them do the same thing --- remove heat from the coolant stream. Your problem is you are applying heat to the CPU with a blowtorch (Prime small FFT). Without restraining the test in some way, most modern processors will not react well to this, especially on auto settings. You are limited at the CPU material level and its ability to conduct heat away from itself. This is the limiting factor for all us. Even a little 240mm cooler can handle far more wattage than a typical CPU can provide. Do you think your Ryzen can output 500W?

 

I think the overclock guys are giving you a bum steer. First, the CPU underneath that giant plate is still tiny and right in the center. The metals involved are highly heat conductive and heat takes the most direct path. It does not run out the corners of the plate, bypassing the immediate contact surface. I would like to see some thermal imaging of the plate heating the corners before I would subscribe to that theory.

 

Still, if you like the cooler's appearance and the fit, you can certainly change out. You still can't run small FFT without running into immediate on the die heat issues. I don't think the Enermax has a coolant monitoring system, so before you change it out run a normal stress test or just use the CPU as you normally would and note the H115i Temp levels, before and after. This is your coolant delta and the only measure of how much fan speed can affect the overall CPU temperature. The fans cannot cool the CPU directly. The water is only a transport system to take it from CPU to the radiator for expulsion. A +10C increase in coolant temperature means you have added 10C more to your CPU temp than it would have been at the start. It also represents the most you can ever reduce CPU temps with any amount of fan speed. It will be easier to see this while you have the H115i installed before changing over and only seeing the CPU core temps side of things. That CPU core temp to coolant delta is primarily the product of your voltage and the level of torture inflicted. A higher Vcore brings a higher CPU to coolant difference. A stock CPU might only be +20C. A CPU right on the edge might be +50C. Generally, once you go past +50C you are on shaky ground on several fronts. If you are seeing a package temp of 80C with a coolant temp of 30C, you are right at the edge. Now in this case it may be a combination of several things.

 

Number one is Small FFT. Stop. There is no reason to do this unless you are tying to see how much heat it takes to damage silicon. Testing stability by heat saturation rather than computationally is not overly advantageous to people not testing material limits. I assume this is not your purpose. Two is voltage and I can't see how much is being applied. It is possible Prime in combination with some unrestrained motherboard auto settings is making this far worse than it should be. Three is always double check AMD sensors with another program. It may be accurate, but too often it is not.

 

Again, if you want to change that is fine, but no more Prime Small FFT. It is not a useful tool for you want to know.

Edited by c-attack
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