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Charixfox

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Charixfox last won the day on October 12 2017

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  1. This may be able to be fixed by (re)moving the contents of the plugins directory under iCue. I recall something about the Aura plugin being broken somehow, so I shut down iCue, moved the contents of plugins out, and restarted iCue. It would previously freeze up multiple times a day, and now it's been good for 72 hours. I recall needing to do this in the past, and things going bad again after upgrading iCue, so it may need to be done after every upgrade. Somebody may also want to investigate whether upgrading Aura stuff or other related lighting software corrects it.
  2. I'm officially sunsetting this project. Thank you to everybody who contributed and everybody who enjoyed it! The code is still available and people may improve on it if they like. I will still accept pull requests when appropriate, and I'm still happy to answer questions. What's next? Hmmmm... Maybe a controller based on an ESP33 instead. Bluetooth and WiFi anyone? Nah. Probably not. But you never know. ;) So long and thanks for all the fish!
  3. Hi Alex! Are you asking about my code as the original poster, or are you asking about nibennet's 3D printer enclosure project?
  4. Honestly I'm not certain that it's something that can be fixed, per se. When the controller has power and no data, it will show the default pattern. This happens with almost all LED devices in computers. Even the keyboards. Some will show nothing for a time and eventually change to "Demo Mode". But most everything has a demo mode that runs when it's not told otherwise. Perhaps somebody with more insight into the LNP can provide some insight.
  5. The configured lighting is actively sent to the controller by the computer when the computer is running and able to do so. When the computer stops the program that sends this data while it is shutting down, the LED controller does not receive any data anymore so goes into default mode. As to why the behavior changed, that's anybody's guess. Perhaps the computer was slept instead of shut down before. The OS might have shut down and started up things in a different order. It's impossible to say why the computer's data connection was not established, just that it was not, and the operating system has control over the startup of the software needed to control the lights. Windows tries to be smart these days and make things "faster" without taking side effects into account.
  6. Short answer based on general info: No. In-depth answer: The motherboards can have a few different kinds of LED headers. - Common Connection (Cathode/Anode), which is usually marked "RGB" as three of the four pins and is usually 12v. - One-wire (WS2812), which is liable to usually be three pins marked 5V, Data, GND and is usually labeled ADDR_LED - Two-wire (APA10x), which is four pins, 5V, Data, Clk, GND The RGB fan LEDs come in two flavors: - SP RGB fans, which use UCS1903 LED modules - Everything Else (HD, LL, Etc), which uses WS2812 LEDs NONE of the LEDs in this can work with common connector headers. The SP RGB fan LEDs (Like in the 470x and 570x) do not work with any motherboard connector. All of the WS2812 LEDs will work with ADDR_LED moherboard headers, but 12V or common connection headers of any type, they will not work.
  7. The lights are fed by the SATA connection, so honestly it sounds like you have a case of the computer not really shutting down. The PSU should need to still be providing power to SATA, which implies that the mobo still has it fully live even if little power is being used. That's much more than standby there. This is the kind of thing that can happen if the system works to shut down but fails to trigger the power transition. On Windows, that's usually an indication of something bad going on with the kernel or a driver.
  8. Notably, more motherboards these days are coming with Digital RGB headers. IF... * The header has three pins (5V, Data, Ground) * You wire only DATA and GROUND to the correct two pins on a fan LED hub ... you can control HD RGB fan LEDs from the motherboard's software. Not SP fan LEDs, which are an annoying other kind of data encoding that nothing sane uses. Do Not... - Connect to "12V R G B" or any other four-pin header parts. A fan alone and bye bye LEDs. A hub and ... Yeah... Bad idea, can kill the whole system. - Connect a fan directly to the motherboard header. Wrong pinout. - Try this at all if none of the above makes complete sense to you.
  9. In summary for those who are wondering, the answer to "Can't you just add a momentary switch to it?" is "Yes. You can add a momentary, Normally-Open switch to it."
  10. They've been making improvements to the software and such since I made my custom controller, but while the custom controller handles mixed fan types, the current official software doesn't. Let's hope they catch up soon.
  11. There are uninformative answers, and this is one of them. ^.^ Then the code is released, providing potential for other people to do this, but no other information, so somebody else could end up burning down their house because of a lack of information and trying to piece together the missing information. :(
  12. Good to see a custom project spawn from the idea. ^.^ Though how are you powering the strips? I'd hate for somebody to burn their computer down by turning all the LEDs white. O.o
  13. Yes. Think of it as "Everything goes -into- ground", so there's just two places from the controller going into ground. You can (and do) have dozens of things in the computer connected to ground intentionally and they all can and should be. I would recommend sticking to your above image to reduce complexity. While it -might- be fine, I do not know the specs of the controller, but just because it "can" does not mean it "should". Reducing voltage generates extra heat and strain on various components and increases the possibility of problems.
  14. As I described in my original reply, not having it connected won't hurt anything. The worst that can happen is that if it needs it, the electrical differential will not be enough to signal to the LEDs. This would only happen if there is some wonky pull circuitry in the controller. The hub is mostly just wires. Inside, it's a bunch of "wires" on a circuit board and one decoupling capacitor, so it's very hard to hurt it. The LEDs and the controller are much easier to hurt with things done wrong.
  15. Maybe. Probably not (98% chance you don't need to), but it depends on how the controller is wired inside
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