Jump to content
Corsair Community

Search the Community

Showing results for tags 'hd120 rgb'.

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


    • Community Rules & Announcements
    • Live Event Announcements
    • New Product Releases
    • Non-CORSAIR Tech, Benchmarks, and Overclocking
    • Games & Gaming
    • Battlestation and Build Showcase
    • iCUE Software Troubleshooting
    • Build Hardware Troubleshooting
    • Gaming Peripherals & Audio Troubleshooting
    • Furniture and Ambient Lighting Troubleshooting
    • CORSAIR Pre-Built Systems Troubleshooting
    • Build Hardware
    • Gaming Peripherals
    • Audio Devices
    • Battlestation Hardware: Ambient Lighting, Furniture, etc.
    • CORSAIR Pre-Built Systems
    • CORSAIR Technologies Q&A
  • Alternative Languages
    • Deutscher Support (German Support)
    • French Support
    • Spanish Support
    • Corsair Enthusiasts Section
    • Corsair Product Discussion
    • Alternate Language Support
    • Customer Service


  • System Build Inspiration
  • Memory
  • Cases
  • Maximizing Performance
  • Peripherals
  • Storage
  • Liquid Cooling
  • Gaming Mice
  • News and Events
  • How-tos and DIY
  • USB Drives
  • Extreme OC Mods
  • Gaming Keyboards
  • Power Supply Units
  • Gaming Headsets
  • Uncategorized

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



About Me



Optical Drive # 1







Found 8 results

  1. I recently finished my computer build with Corsair RGB Ram, a Spec omega RGB case, and 5 Corsair RGB fans. I have 2 HD120 fans and 3 HD140 fans hooked up to the RGB hub that came with the case. The hub is connected to a port on a lighting node pro, while the other slot is taken by my case lights. When I first powered on my computer, everything lit up and turned on. Once I opened Icue, the fan lights completely turned off, but my case lights that are on the same lighting node pro stayed on. I tried swapping the case and the fans on the node pro, and 3/5 of the fans turned on while my case did not turn on. With the fans finally on, Icue still did not detect the fans. I've also tried everything to do with icue and have tried moving the USB to another port but still nothing. Could this be a faulty lighting node pro?
  2. DISCLAIMERS This is currently a DO IT YOURSELF project working with low voltage and sensitive electronics. This is not in any way endorsed by Corsair and will probably void the living bajeebers out of your warranty. And the dead bajeebers too. In the current state, some knowledge of electrical work and safety is necessary. In short: Know stuff or you might break things, including yourself. THIS IS NOT PLUG AND PLAY. Onward! October 11, 2019 Update After not committing any code for all this time, I am sunsetting this project. The code will remain available for anybody who wants to use it or improve on it. I may pick it back up in the future (would that make it a new day?) but at this point I do not foresee doing so now that Corsair has capable controllers available in retail. I applaud the folks at Corsair for coming out with a highly-capable controller. After hearing from somebody who worked there and went on to become my coworker afterward ("Wait, YOU'RE Kitdragon?!"), I'm happy I was able to provide inspiration to your teams for the project. Keep up the awesome work, design cool new things, and have fun! January 4, 2018 Update The thread is getting Very Long, so this portion consolidates some of the information. The project should use a "Leonardo" style Arduino. The chip on that kind of board has integrated UART handling and will not drop serial information. While other Arduino boards may work, if you encounter problems with them, I will simply advise you to use a supported board. Appropriate boards are, for example, the Pro Micro or Beetle board, basically anything sporting an ATMega32u4 AVR. You (currently) will need to know how to compile and upload sketches to the Arduino. Knowing how to do small (or large) changes to sketches is also strongly recommended. The firmware I developed is located at https://github.com/Charixfox/HD120-Controller. Ongoing development is occurring (very) slowly. The Ground and Data pins are the only pins that should be connected between the Arduino and the LED hub. Connecting the 5V is a Bad Idea with most motherboards these days. There are a few PC programs that have been developed by other users on their own time to communicate with the firmware. One such is at http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showpost.php?p=924826&postcount=190 on this thread. I absolutely suck at video editing, so I have not yet successfully made an instructional video. If the fans light up at all, something worked right. The LEDs will not light if they get only power and no signal. Getting them to light up The way you want requires a USB connection to the computer. Since this project first started, Corsair did finally come out with a few controllers that are less-sucky. The Lighting Node Pro and Commander Pro work with Link to do blinkenlights. No, I will not ever support or advocate "Temperature-based lighting" for one very simple reason: This project is meant to have INTERESTING, FLASHY lighting. Like RGB Overload. Temperature-based colors have the following: One color. If it changes, your computer is going to die. That is not interesting or flashy. That is "Not dying" or "Dying-so-I-Don't-Want-To-See-This". This doesn't stop anybody else from making a system that will send commands to interrupt the normal operation of the lights and make them scary-colored when your computer is burning parts of itself up. All of the above are mutable due to the fact that there is rarely such a thing as "Not possible" or "never" or "always". Can it be done? Maybe. Will it be worth it? Maybe. Will it be easy or difficult? Maybe. January 30, 2017 Update Current Status: - I have installed an Arduino Pro Micro into the housing for the original controller and stolen the original controller's cable. This unit is a good size and has some advanced capability for future use. The Arduino is connected to the hub and to a Micro USB to Motherboard Header cable. - Code for simple firmware for the Arduino is located at https://github.com/Charixfox/HD120-Controller and I will hopefully be able to work more on this moving forward. The person who has the fans installed in her case right now is perfectly happy with Angry Myia Mode (don't ask about the name. Just don't. It has to do with Blue Fizzies being stabbed to death) so development and testing is somewhat hindered by no longer having easy access to the hardware and I'm reluctant to invest another $90 or $180 in three to six more fans just to code more things that might never be used. - With a small bit of effort this project -can- technically be done without solder. The structural integrity is not guaranteed however. Bonus: SP120 RGB fans are fan-addressable UCS1903 controller chips, so with some minor code changes, the same or similar code can be used on them. More things coming soon! Original information I'm not the first person to try to figure out what's going on with the HD120 RGB fans and their beautiful LEDs, but the other person who did apparently posted asking if he could say it and then never returned. Sadness was the result. First, the basic findings so far... When I saw that the lighting was 12 Individually-Addressable RGB LEDs, my heart lit up and I got excited. Individually-addressable means that each one could have its own color and be at my every whim! However the basic controller that comes with it is rudimentary to say the least (when being kind to it). I tried some searching in various places and, as usual, Google thought it was going to be smart and guessed what I meant, then fed me the most advertisingliscious results it could. And here on these forms, well, I told the story above. Right. Time to take matters into my own hands and open up some stuff. We'll skip the mistakes I made and get right into the results. One of the things I needed to determine was what kind of LED packages were used in the lighting system. There are two common Digitally-Individually-Addressable (DIA) LED systems that exist today, so I hoped that it would be one of those. The two are WS2812 (which is a single SMC package that contains a WS2811 controller and RGB LEDs in one package) and APA102. The normal Controller for this fan set has two parts: The hub that six fans and the "remote" module plug into, and the remote module that has buttons on it to change the Mode, Color, and Speed. The fan itself has two separate 4-Pin IIC female connectors. One is a normal double-thick block 4-Pin PWM 12V fan connector. The other is a clip-bearing 4-Pin LED Lighting connector. IMPORTANT: The fan works on 12V PWM. The LEDs work on 5V and single-line digital serial. The fact that there were four pins instead of six combined with the "You must connect the fans to the ports in order for the lights to all work" to tell me that the candidate was WS2812. Not quite as capable as APA102s, but half the cost and less-complex. The next bit of fun was getting into the control modules. Four screws on the hub and two on the button remote, both under the sticky pads. This contained the important information that strengthened some of my suspicions. The hub takes +5v and Ground from the SATA connector to power the controller and the LEDs. The remote has three wires going to the hub, so either it had to be using a digital signalling to logic hardware in the hub or the logic hardware had to be in the remote. Turns out it's in the remote. One ATMEL 2mbit EEPROM and an unmarked 8-pin processor chip work with 5V and Ground and have a single line out for the digital data signal. Each port on the hub has +5V and Ground, and then Data Out (from the hub to the fan) and Data In (From the fan to the hub so it can be passed to the next fan). The data signal from the remote is passed to Port 1 on the hub, then the Data In (I prefer to call Data Return) on the port is passed to the Data Out on the next port, and so on through all six. Pinout for the LED connector on the fan -WIRES TOWARDS YOU, CLIP FACING UP-: Ground Data Out Data Return +5V That's part of the important part. (This means that plugging this into a 12V PWM Fan controller will fry it like a doughnut. Mmmm... Doughnuts... Blah, now I want doughnuts.) Next up, an Arduino Mega 2560 was loaded up with FastLED and advised that this was WS2811 Control type, 12 LEDs, and GRB. A basic "demo/test pattern" program was loaded onto the Arduino. In summary, some wiring with pins, some resistors (for safety), a nice big capacitor (also for safety) and a 5V power supply later and... Success! Muahahahahahahaha! The LEDs are most likely WS2812 SMC modules and at least are communication-compatible with such. I did note that the LED arrangement on the HD120s is... slightly evil. *Sigh* 12 LEDs can be best arranged "on the hour" or "on the half hour". These are "On the half hour", so there are three on each quarter of the ring, and consider them "In the hour" of the full hour before them. This allows the break between two colors to be on the hour. Addressing them though, looking at the back of the fan, upright (Labeled sticker will be upright and cables come in to the upper section of the left side)... LED 1 is at the 10:30 position. So 1 and 2 are on the upper left, followed by 3-8 on the right, going clockwise (when looking at the back, so counter-clockwise and on the left when looking at the front), then 9-12 bringing up the left and finishing at 9:30.This means programmatically aligning things in the quadrants becomes more of a pain since it isn't easily split into 1-3, 4-6, 7-9. 10-12. Image courtesy of timr: http://imgur.com/PWH1Cle There is no "plug detection". No way to know whether a port has a fan plugged in. So any custom control needs to be specifically set to have the correct number for the fans that you have, or 72 max. The LEDs HAVE NO DEFAULT COLOR WHEN POWERED ON. Their default is "off", so without data, nothing! I'm going to go ahead and try to get some video of the work here, as well as see if I can put together a full 6-fan array and get video of that. Got questions? Ask! I'll answer if I can. ^.^ Edit April 24 2017: Realized I should put the new version video here. This is a much-newer version than the video in the next post down. Enjoy! [ame] [/ame]
  3. I have 8 hd120 fans. All of them light up with the expection of one. Using Corsair pro with 2 RGB hubs I've connected them all in order. Verified via icue, I have 6 hd120 rgb cords connected to led channel 1. 2 connected cia channel 2. Reset the PC, changed commander to different hub Reset firmware on commander by inserting pin. Viewed various forums and youtube videos Ran out of ideas. Request the communitys assistance.
  4. Guten Tag! Seit dem neustem Update (0.05.104) ist mir aufgefallen das wenn ich die Helligkeit auf 0 bzw. Aus stelle das nach paar Sekunden alle 3 HD 120 Lüfter und mein Lightning Node PRO wieder auf Regenbogenfarben zurück springen. Genau das selbe wenn man ein Profil anlegt wo man nichts einstellt und es Dunkel ist und nach paar Sekunden schaltet sich es von alleine auf Regenbogenfarben. Woran liegt das und kann man das beheben? Mit freundlichen grüßen! :p::biggrin:
  5. Bonjour, Je viens de commander un boitier 570x crystal RGB doté de 3 ventilateurs SP120 RGB, ainsi qu'un AIO H100iV2. J'aimerai changer les ventilateurs de l'AIO pour y mettre des RGB mais tout en restant sur du PMW, j'avais donc pensé à mettre des HD120 RGB Est-il possible de brancher 3 SP120 et 3 HD120 sur le commander d'origine ? Sinon quelle est la meilleur solution ou la seulle possible ? 1. brancher 3 SP120 et 3 HD120 sur le commander pro ( si il est possible de changer le boitier de commande ) ? 2. brancher 6 HD120 sur le commander pro ? Merci d'avance pour votre réponse
  6. So I've looked just about everywhere on these forums for a solution to my problem, but it seems I have a fairly unique case on my hands... I recently purchased a 460x with the intention of switching out the RGB fans it comes with for HD120's. I was going to wait until I had a little more money but from the git go the SP fans in the 460x were malfunctioning from the very start. There would be only one fan lit up and it was very dim, so I decided to just make the plunge and buy the 3 fan HD120 kit. The first kit I bought was an open box deal so I knew there could be potential trouble. I installed the kit per the directions making sure to swap out the SP Lighting Controller with the HD one provided in the kit and also changing out the Lighting Hub with the new one just in the event that the one the case came with was defective. With everything properly powered I turned on my PC and now only 2 of the fans would light up. I called Corsair's tech support and they had me try each fan individually in the #1 slot on the hub. The two fans that would light up originally were the only ones that would work in that slot but they still were very dim and the controller could not change them either. The tech support agent said I should try exchanging the open box for a brand new kit. The next day I exchanged the used kit for a brand new one and went home immediately to install them. I cautiously installed them this time as to not potentially damage their delicate ecosystem. I screwed the fans into place first and then connected them each to the motherboard. I then stuck the controller and hub to the respective areas and connected the SATA power to hub as well as the controller to the hub. Next I connected the controller to the front IO of 460x so that I could control the fans from the case instead of the internal controller. I then routed the fan wires to their proper 1, 2, 3 positions in the hub and powered everything on. The fans only partially lit and eventually one of them just stopped working all together. I still had no control over their functionality from either the case controller buttons or the provided controller. I called tech support again and walked them through my process. The tech agent asked that I try each fan individually in the #1 slot and so I did. Each fan lit up, but only partially. The tech agent asked if I had connected the controller to the front IO cables on both installation attempts and so he deduced that the common denominator was trying to use the front panel controller. He said it could be shorting out the hub or controller or the fans themselves and that I should return the kit for a new one and this time not connect the controller to the front IO. He also said to make sure to not disconnect or connect any fans or SATA power cables while the PC was running. I went to the store and swapped out the kit again. I installed everything the same way except I made sure to not connect the case to the controller this time. I powered the PC on and all three lit up but were slightly different colors and still were not as bright as they should be. Some of the LED's on each fan were lit, but only very very dimly. I turned off the PC each time I tried to change a cable or swap a fan cable with another and still no luck. I tried several different SATA power cables but eventually the whole kit stopped lighting up all together and has not since. Long story short... I'm on kit #3 and have tried 3 different ways of installing these fans and have yet to get them working correctly for even 10 seconds. I don't think I want to try another kit, so perhaps I'll just give up on my RGB setup. Any help or input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you
  7. I have had a 3 pack of the HD120 RGB fans for about 8 months and have been using them with the default controller. About a month ago the fans light patter would seem to reset to its "cycle through everything" pattern after having been set to a specific pattern. Today though, I am unable to get them to illuminate at all. I checked all the wires and saw no damage and tried different power ports for the hub, etc. I am assuming now that the hub died for some reason after 7 months of flawless performance. Has anyone else had this issue?
  8. Hallo, ich habe 6x HD120 RGB Lüfter für mein Corsair 460x Gehäuße gekauft. Doch wenn ich die Lüfter an die LED Hub anschließe leuchten nur 2 von denen und man kann sie nicht steuern. Weiß jemand wieso das so ist ?
  • Create New...