PeteB Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 Have been using my Cool for 3 days now It has been running ok but one morning pump failed to start up!!!!!!! Oh no I then tapped the pump and the impellor started up. The pump is now intermittent sometimes works sometimes doesent. Checked electrical connections and they are fine. I thought this was a reliable pump? Need to find a new pump using 3/8" barbs. It will be a real pain to strip the lot and send it back. Maybe Ill give up with my machine alltogether now. Please can anybody give me any help,suggestions on what to do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wired Posted April 24, 2005 Share Posted April 24, 2005 http://www.houseofhelp.com/v2/showthread.php?t=35063 Read that thread, it will explain how to burp the system to make sure there is no air left in the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KaptCrunch Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 Have been using my Cool for 3 days now It has been running ok but one morning pump failed to start up!!!!!!! Oh no I then tapped the pump and the impellor started up. The pump is now intermittent sometimes works sometimes doesent. Checked electrical connections and they are fine. I thought this was a reliable pump? Need to find a new pump using 3/8" barbs. It will be a real pain to strip the lot and send it back. Maybe Ill give up with my machine alltogether now. Please can anybody give me any help,suggestions on what to do. PeteB can you take a pic of setup ? also check the pins on molex plug are making good contact. take a small safety pin(pointed end) to plug with pins, on the very end its quarterd push the safety in center spread them so to have a tight fit on the other female half. remove rez an have a bud hold it highest as posible above case while you lay case on its right side (MB underside on bottom) then play roller ball with bubbles to the rez Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev Posted April 26, 2005 Share Posted April 26, 2005 PeteB, First try connecting the pump to another connector line from your PSU. Preferably, a connector that doesn't have anything or much connected to it already. Maybe your PSU is just a shade on the low wattage side. A PSU of 400W minimum or better works well with a complete computer and water-cooling setup. You can always RMA the COOL kit back to Corsair for a working replacement if the PSU is up to the required levels. :!: Another thing to check for, is the wire connection inside of the pump. You'll have to drain your system, plug ANY loose tubes REALLY WELL, and take the pump out WITH it's hoses still attached. http://www.systemcooling.com/images/reviews/LiquidCooling/Swiftech_MCP350/image9.jpg On a table, unscrew the four screws on the bottom and take the cover off. Be very careful with the o-ring. Set it aside to prevent damage. WIPE everything DRY with a soft cloth. Once done, push on the bottom center area of the pump housing. This will dislodge the mid-section. Carefully, guide the wire through the slot too. You will see the circuit board and the wire connections. Check and see if the connection is loose. http://www.systemcooling.com/images/reviews/LiquidCooling/Swiftech_MCP350/image14.jpg If it is loose, then you have found the reason why your pump only works intermittently. It would be nice to see the pump housing having black RTV to hold the wires in place. Sometimes, people pick up the pump by the WIRE or pull on the wire to harshly! :eek: This could loosen the solder joint inside of the pump to the circuit board. To see an indepth review of the pump, our friends at SystemCooling had done a great job here ... http://www.systemcooling.com/swiftech_mcp350-01.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteB Posted April 27, 2005 Author Share Posted April 27, 2005 PeteB, First try connecting the pump to another connector line from your PSU. Preferably, a connector that doesn't have anything or much connected to it already. Maybe your PSU is just a shade on the low wattage side. A PSU of 400W minimum or better works well with a complete computer and water-cooling setup. You can always RMA the COOL kit back to Corsair for a working replacement if the PSU is up to the required levels. :!: Another thing to check for, is the wire connection inside of the pump. You'll have to drain your system, plug ANY loose tubes REALLY WELL, and take the pump out WITH it's hoses still attached. http://www.systemcooling.com/images/reviews/LiquidCooling/Swiftech_MCP350/image9.jpg On a table, unscrew the four screws on the bottom and take the cover off. Be very careful with the o-ring. Set it aside to prevent damage. WIPE everything DRY with a soft cloth. Once done, push on the bottom center area of the pump housing. This will dislodge the mid-section. Carefully, guide the wire through the slot too. You will see the circuit board and the wire connections. Check and see if the connection is loose. http://www.systemcooling.com/images/reviews/LiquidCooling/Swiftech_MCP350/image14.jpg If it is loose, then you have found the reason why your pump only works intermittently. It would be nice to see the pump housing having black RTV to hold the wires in place. Sometimes, people pick up the pump by the WIRE or pull on the wire to harshly! :eek: This could loosen the solder joint inside of the pump to the circuit board. To see an indepth review of the pump, our friends at SystemCooling had done a great job here ... http://www.systemcooling.com/swiftech_mcp350-01.html Stev The Delphi Guy Stev I feel that you may be right that my system psu, may not be up to the job I am using an Antec phantom 350 watt supply whilst only 350w its effiencey is 85% so it should be the equivalent to about a standard 400/450 watt supply. I am an electronics technician by trade, although now working in mechanical engineering, and have tried running of a diferent molex connector, pulled the wires on the pump to check for bad connections. I have had a look on the bottom of the pump and it is held together using TORX screws. I havent had much time to play around yet, Will do so at the weekend. The electrical connections are good, if i put my hand on the pump on powering up my system, i can feel the power going to the pump, what happens though, it seems that the pump sometimes sticks. This could be like you say underated supply, or sticking pump. On initial power up pump starts fine, leave on a few hours( as when it starts up it runs for hours no problem) turn the system off and then on again and the pump wont start up ,turn it off quick, turn on again and it will probably start up again. As i am aware of the problem i can ensure i make sure the pump is running before booting into my Operating system. but if my nephew etc uses my machine he may not check the pump is running and bang goes my machine. I think that dismantling the pump and servicing it may be a good idea, but first i will build a power supply and run the pump separate on this for a while to see if this works ok. Oh yes i have also directly soldered the pump to the supply to ensure good connection. Thanks for everyones suggestions. Whilst i am a little unhappy running my system the way it is,I am pleased with the temps: as follows: Athlon 64 3500 newcastle core: Idle 32/34 degrees c Load 39 degrees is the max i can achieve thiese temps are non overclocked settings I am using non conductive fluidxp in my system.(maybe this causes a problem) but i doubt it. What temps are other people getting????????????? Will get back to you with results soon Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev Posted April 27, 2005 Share Posted April 27, 2005 PeteB, The TORX screws on the DDC-1 pump are a size 20. :nodding: Stev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteB Posted April 28, 2005 Author Share Posted April 28, 2005 Whilst currently trying to get my pump running properly (in progress), I would like to know if anyone knows where i can purchase: NON CONDUCTIVE dye so i can add colour to my FLUIDXP which i am using in my COOL watercooling setup. I have heard that "Wildfire" UV dye is good, but is it non conductive? As yet i dont have uv lighting,( my poor power supply will probably struggle) Would like to add a flowmeter for a visual confirmation that the pump is running. Would also like to know what chipset cooler(water block) you would recomend, for use with the cool.(3/8" fittings) I have assembled my watercooler on top of my customised case and when im more confident it is running properly i will fabricate,make the extended casing to cover over the cooler. Unfortunately i have run out of harlequin flip paint to match the rest of my case. It costs £380 per half litre, so this new top box it will stay as a bear metal box for a while after i have made it. Thanks for your replies PeteB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev Posted April 28, 2005 Share Posted April 28, 2005 PeteB, For UV dye, try Danger Den's bottle of Dye-Lite by Tracer-Products. The color is green. The dye is safe. It's used commercially in the automotive realm to check for water collant leaks. http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=80&cat=55&page=1 Danger Den's price is good. I would not try to purchase this in a gallon, way to expensive at that. 4-8 drops of dye-lite Green UV additive will do the job from the 1-oz bottle. Start off wtih 4 drops and increase to your color liking. Blue is another color in Dye-Lite. Some people have mixed the Blue and Green to a neat Teal color. So check out performance-pcs ... http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2740 Be careful when using these dyes, as they do stain clothing and hands very easily! :biggrin: Stev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteB Posted April 29, 2005 Author Share Posted April 29, 2005 PeteB, For UV dye, try Danger Den's bottle of Dye-Lite by Tracer-Products. The color is green. The dye is safe. It's used commercially in the automotive realm to check for water collant leaks. http://www.dangerdenstore.com/product.php?productid=80&cat=55&page=1 Danger Den's price is good. I would not try to purchase this in a gallon, way to expensive at that. 4-8 drops of dye-lite Green UV additive will do the job from the 1-oz bottle. Start off wtih 4 drops and increase to your color liking. Blue is another color in Dye-Lite. Some people have mixed the Blue and Green to a neat Teal color. So check out performance-pcs ... http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2740 Be careful when using these dyes, as they do stain clothing and hands very easily! :biggrin: Stev Ill give that one a try thanks. Last night I finished making my power supply to run my pump separately 12V regulated capable of 2Amps. Unfortunately or maybe fortunately the pump STILL fails to start up everytime. If you power up from cold, it starts fine Then let it run 5 minutes or so turn computer off and on again, pump fails to start but i can feel the pumps impellor trying to turn. This i think means yes indeed the pump is Faulty. ????? Due to all the hasstle getting returns numbers stripping the kit out etc, I think that i will buy a new pump( £50 YIKES! alot of money to pay for something i allready have that is brand new). Obviously i didnt want to buy the same one, type again, (lost confidence in its reliability) as it may give me the same problems as before. (unless the fault lies elswhere)??? Do you have any suggestions on what pump i should buy, or where i can get the same pump from, and maybe better than £50, as if this is not the problem £50 is a lot to spend. Once up and running again, ill send the faulty pump back or try to fix it myself. Oh well at least ii will end up with a spare pump i guess. I dont want to add dyes etc to my machine untill the pump is up and running again, as presently using non conductive liquid i can play about trying to get my COOL running properly without blowing anything up. Thanks again for trying to help me get system fixed, appreciated. P.S. I overclocked my system from 200mhz to 230mhz FSB to give a 2.5ghz clpu speed increased the voltage to 1.56V and the system still only runs at a max load of 42 degrees. Im impressed by the cooling performance, just need pump to work properly now. Cheers PeteB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stev Posted April 29, 2005 Share Posted April 29, 2005 PeteB, If you had the pump apart, did you try to lift out the pump impeller? It's that black-top, shinny-sided, gum-drop looking thingy. It’s the only part that actually moves in the pump. It's held in place by the pump's magnet. After that is lifted out, you will see a white little ball mounted on a cylinder tower. What condition is that little white ball? Sometimes graphite can lodge betwixt the impeller and the white little ball. The recommendation is to manually rotate the impeller backwards by hand about 10 times, then forward 10 and once more backward by 10. Use a CLEAN cloth and wipe the little white ball, but DO NOT pry, nor take off the little white ball. It will not go back on. Look up into the impeller where the little white ball fits, is it clean looking? A can of computer compressed air is recommended to clean out that narrow hole. If you do not have a can of compressed air, you can soak the impeller in white distilled vinegar with some swirling hand movement on the impeller for a few minuets. Make sure it's NOT regular vinegar. :bigeyes: Then rinse clean and reassemble the pump. Other than that, there's no other possible thing a end user can do to remedy the pump problems you have. :sigh!: The pump is very reliable, you have just so happen to receive one, in hundreds of thousands that is a problem. Sorry it has happened. Getting an RMA number and a pump replacement isn't all that hard to do. Remember, do not use TAP water from a sink to fill the system. Salts and minerals (metals) could ruin liquid-cooling components. Hope this helps too! Stev Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteB Posted April 29, 2005 Author Share Posted April 29, 2005 PeteB, If you had the pump apart, did you try to lift out the pump impeller? It's that black-top, shinny-sided, gum-drop looking thingy. It’s the only part that actually moves in the pump. It's held in place by the pump's magnet. After that is lifted out, you will see a white little ball mounted on a cylinder tower. What condition is that little white ball? Sometimes graphite can lodge betwixt the impeller and the white little ball. The recommendation is to manually rotate the impeller backwards by hand about 10 times, then forward 10 and once more backward by 10. Use a CLEAN cloth and wipe the little white ball, but DO NOT pry, nor take off the little white ball. It will not go back on. Look up into the impeller where the little white ball fits, is it clean looking? A can of computer compressed air is recommended to clean out that narrow hole. If you do not have a can of compressed air, you can soak the impeller in white distilled vinegar with some swirling hand movement on the impeller for a few minuets. Make sure it's NOT regular vinegar. :bigeyes: Then rinse clean and reassemble the pump. Other than that, there's no other possible thing a end user can do to remedy the pump problems you have. :sigh!: The pump is very reliable, you have just so happen to receive one, in hundreds of thousands that is a problem. Sorry it has happened. Getting an RMA number and a pump replacement isn't all that hard to do. Remember, do not use TAP water from a sink to fill the system. Salts and minerals (metals) could ruin liquid-cooling components. Hope this helps too! Stev The Delphi Guy Wow really that reliable, maybe the pump is ok then? As yet i have not taken the pump apart, being brand new obviously i wasnt expecting to have to do this. I have ordered a new pump. Should have it on tuesday or wednesday Cross fingers hope that i dont recieve another faulty pump, It would be just my luck. Once im up and running i will take a look at the old pump. If i get this working i should have enough pumps to last me at 12hours usage a day, 2 pumps = about 20 years or so. Cheers for your help, will let you know how i get on soon PeteB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteB Posted May 8, 2005 Author Share Posted May 8, 2005 PeteB, If you had the pump apart, did you try to lift out the pump impeller? It's that black-top, shinny-sided, gum-drop looking thingy. It’s the only part that actually moves in the pump. It's held in place by the pump's magnet. After that is lifted out, you will see a white little ball mounted on a cylinder tower. What condition is that little white ball? Sometimes graphite can lodge betwixt the impeller and the white little ball. The recommendation is to manually rotate the impeller backwards by hand about 10 times, then forward 10 and once more backward by 10. Use a CLEAN cloth and wipe the little white ball, but DO NOT pry, nor take off the little white ball. It will not go back on. Look up into the impeller where the little white ball fits, is it clean looking? A can of computer compressed air is recommended to clean out that narrow hole. If you do not have a can of compressed air, you can soak the impeller in white distilled vinegar with some swirling hand movement on the impeller for a few minuets. Make sure it's NOT regular vinegar. :bigeyes: Then rinse clean and reassemble the pump. Other than that, there's no other possible thing a end user can do to remedy the pump problems you have. :sigh!: The pump is very reliable, you have just so happen to receive one, in hundreds of thousands that is a problem. Sorry it has happened. Getting an RMA number and a pump replacement isn't all that hard to do. Remember, do not use TAP water from a sink to fill the system. Salts and minerals (metals) could ruin liquid-cooling components. Hope this helps too! Stev The Delphi Guy HI Stev I have recieved my new pump and all is running lovely. As i have now totally wrecked the old pump trying to locate the true fault, it is unlikely that it will be replaced under warranty. OH well im up and running so im happy at the expense of another £50 The new pumps have a rotational detector, which is handy because if this pump fails at least i can detect it immediateley. Ive killed of my fluidxp by adding wildfire uv dye and having to top up with distilled water, as when changing pumps i lost my last bit of fluidxp. Eventually ii will drain the system and refill, but cant be bothered at the moment, all runs loveley so not worth it eh? Thanks for help and suggestions. Cheeres PeteB :biggrin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpDFrek Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 PeteB- If the pump failed you should still try to get it RMA'd. You might be able to get it exchanged. I am sure they would like to get their hands on any failed pumps to try to find out what happened so it will not happen again. You can try the COOL GUY (coolguy@corsairmemory.com) and see if they can exchange it for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeteB Posted May 10, 2005 Author Share Posted May 10, 2005 PeteB- If the pump failed you should still try to get it RMA'd. You might be able to get it exchanged. I am sure they would like to get their hands on any failed pumps to try to find out what happened so it will not happen again. You can try the COOL GUY (coolguy@corsairmemory.com) and see if they can exchange it for you. Living in the UK makes it hard to send stuff back, but ill see what i can do, maybe my UK dealer can sort it for me, but they are allways keen to sell me stuff but when it comes to problems, well not the best for that. Whilst my new pump hasent failed on me it sometimes takes a few more seconds to start than other times (guess this is normal?) I also use an a8nsli deluxe MB, next i would like to extend my Watercooling to the northbridge and my x850xt pe Graphics card. I am trying for a near quiet system. Trying to get the danger dens northbridge block Maze 4 , perfect for a8nsli ???????.. Like i say in the uk it appears harder to get custom gear etc at least i can now finish making my case to extend over the watercooling section... Thanks PeteB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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