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CPU is overheating


crypes
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Hello!

Today i reinstalled Corsair Link, but it didn't detected my H100i V2 again so I was searching around the internet, nothing worked. I opened the PC to look if the cable is correctly. It was. So i turned my PC on again and wanted to look in BIOS if its detected there, but than I saw that my CPU (i7 5820K) went from 41 centigrade up to 55 centigrade, and it stayed at 54/55 centigrade(in Bios) for the rest of the day. So i wanted to see which temperature my CPU got in Idle. I started HWMonitor and saw it got 60 to 63 centigrade.

(The CPU Fan is set to 100% in BIOS)

My CPU isn't overclocked, what should I do?

(Sorry for my bad english)

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While that's warmer than we would expect, it's not quite overheating.

 

Have you gone into Device Manager to reset the driver? Also, we're seeing more reports that disabling Fast Start in Windows solves several issues.

 

From there, we would need to see what your pump temperature is, assuming we can get it to show up in Link.

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Now I turned the other fans to 100% and the temp is now 40-44 centigrade(thats "normal" for my PC xD)

 

I tried to connect the pump via external USB cable und its still not in the programm.

I went to device manager but didn't find any driver of Corsair - lol

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That reads like a flow problem. The cpu temperature should not creep upwards as you sit on the desktop. The coolant temperature is probably doing the same thing and is similar to your idle cpu temperature, but that is what we need you to confirm. What is your H100i v2 Temp in Link?

 

Start a support ticket with Corsair. You likely need to replace the cooler.

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That reads like a flow problem. The cpu temperature should not creep upwards as you sit on the desktop. The coolant temperature is probably doing the same thing and is similar to your idle cpu temperature, but that is what we need you to confirm. What is your H100i v2 Temp in Link?

 

Start a support ticket with Corsair. You likely need to replace the cooler.

 

So my CPU Temp is now on idle about 45 centigrade and while playing Fortnite about 60 centigrade.

I'll change the thermal paste tomorrow and I'll change the fans and try so an other airflow.

I cant look for the temp in Link because it is still not detected. :sigh!:

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You don’t need to change the TIM yet. If you enter the BIOS and can watch the cpu temp tick upwards 35..40..45..50..55..60..then the coolant isn’t moving. In the BIOS (or hwmonitor), do you get any kind of speed reading from the cpu fan header (or wherever the H100i v2 is connected)? Edited by c-attack
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You don’t need to change the TIM yet. If you enter the BIOS and can watch the cpu temp tick upwards 35..40..45..50..55..60..then the coolant isn’t moving. In the BIOS (or hwmonitor), do you get any kind of speed reading from the cpu fan header (or wherever the H100i v2 is connected)?

 

In the BIOS the temp is about 55centigrade now and not going above 58 centigrade. Yes I get a speed reading from the cpu fan, its always 1486rpm or 1502 rpm -- it changes between this two values.

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The BIOS will show half of the actual pump speed, so that is correct for the Performance (high) setting. The fluctuations are completely normal.

 

Nevertheless, this also suggests your coolant temp is sitting in the low 50s at idle. That is too high for load. Feel the tubes? At that temp, they should both feel warm and the radiator can only take 2C or so out in a single pass. If one is very warm and other is cool, that is generally a bad sign. Does the exhaust from the radiator feel warm or cool? At 50C coolant temp, the air coming out should be HOT. If it isn't that may also suggest a flow issue.

 

You can clean and reapply TIM, but I don't think that is the issue. You don't go +20-30C at idle for a TIM problem. Nevertheless, if you have it on hand and want something to do while waiting for support, go ahead. While you have the pump head off, give a good shake. Hardly scientific, but if this is the more common clogging of the pump strainer, it might shake things loose.

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The BIOS will show half of the actual pump speed, so that is correct for the Performance (high) setting. The fluctuations are completely normal.

 

Nevertheless, this also suggests your coolant temp is sitting in the low 50s at idle. That is too high for load. Feel the tubes? At that temp, they should both feel warm and the radiator can only take 2C or so out in a single pass. If one is very warm and other is cool, that is generally a bad sign. Does the exhaust from the radiator feel warm or cool? At 50C coolant temp, the air coming out should be HOT. If it isn't that may also suggest a flow issue.

 

You can clean and reapply TIM, but I don't think that is the issue. You don't go +20-30C at idle for a TIM problem. Nevertheless, if you have it on hand and want something to do while waiting for support, go ahead. While you have the pump head off, give a good shake. Hardly scientific, but if this is the more common clogging of the pump strainer, it might shake things loose.

 

The air in my PC is cool, also the air from the radiator. One tube is warm and the other is cool :(: :(: I already tried to shake the pump like you said to do. What now? I cant send it back or so, because I lost the bill (I would have 1 year warranty left ._. )

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I am of the opinion you need a new cooler. If you want to wait for a second opinion, one way or the other, I understand. The specific issue your are reporting is the most commonly reported on the forums with that model. It is not something common to other generations of coolers aside from the last H100i GTX/v2 and H110i GTX/H115i models.

 

One final check... do you have the DB 700 in normal or inverted set-up? How does the top panel of the case feel? Cool? Warm? There have been some issues with BeQuiet cases trapping waste heat in those noise baffle panels. Their cases are clearly designed to be quiet first, with airflow as a secondary priority at best. This means you might have slightly higher idle coolant temps than someone with a more open case, but it should not be anywhere near what you are reporting. My 5820K, which was by no means a stellar CPU, would never idle more than 30-34C while overclocked at 1.31v on the warmest summer day with a 280mm cooler. I can't see anyway a healthy cooler allows its run in the 50C+ range.

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I am of the opinion you need a new cooler. If you want to wait for a second opinion, one way or the other, I understand. The specific issue your are reporting is the most commonly reported on the forums with that model. It is not something common to other generations of coolers aside from the last H100i GTX/v2 and H110i GTX/H115i models.

 

One final check... do you have the DB 700 in normal or inverted set-up? How does the top panel of the case feel? Cool? Warm? There have been some issues with BeQuiet cases trapping waste heat in those noise baffle panels. Their cases are clearly designed to be quiet first, with airflow as a secondary priority at best. This means you might have slightly higher idle coolant temps than someone with a more open case, but it should not be anywhere near what you are reporting. My 5820K, which was by no means a stellar CPU, would never idle more than 30-34C while overclocked at 1.31v on the warmest summer day with a 280mm cooler. I can't see anyway a healthy cooler allows its run in the 50C+ range.

 

I have my Case in normal set-up and everything is cool(in the case, the top panel is cool (there is coming warm air out ouf it (so should my airflow work). The one tube is the only thing thats warm in my PC :sigh!:

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The air in my PC is cool, also the air from the radiator. One tube is warm and the other is cool QUOTE]

 

Both sides of the tubes should feel roughly similar to touch. If one side is much warmer than the other then it's an indication of a blockage or pump failure.

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The air in my PC is cool, also the air from the radiator. One tube is warm and the other is cool QUOTE]

 

Both sides of the tubes should feel roughly similar to touch. If one side is much warmer than the other then it's an indication of a blockage or pump failure.

Do you know if I can repair it on my own :confused: ?

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Do you know if I can repair it on my own :confused: ?

 

This is usually hopeless unless you are extremely handy with customizing these types of parts. Lot of proprietary elements and one way fasteners. It is very frustrating to take apart, let alone rebuild it.

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The one that fits you case the best. There will be zero meaningful difference in cooling capacity. A 360mm will be better than a 280mm if you really want to set the fans at the bare minimum and never touch them again. However, how it fits in your case is going to be the deciding factor. BeQuiet suggests a 360mm can go front or top on your model, but there always seems to be a catch or two. I would certainly prefer top exhaust with that case, but it probably means giving up some drive bays in the top front. That may or may not be true with a 280mm as well. It's hard to tell just from pictures.
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