jonnibravo Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Hi all, I am getting starting temps of 56-68c idle and 80c when browsing load, the air being pump out is cool and I cant see any evidence the temps are high. This started after I attempted to reconfigure the radiator, I have put it back in its original position but it is still showing the same temps. Then all of a sudden they go back down to 40-48c idle, What is going on? Then it will go back up, and so on. There are no significant processes running during this. Increasing the fans seem to make little difference to the temps Is this for real!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 Typically this is one of two problems. 1) The pump block is not making good contact with the CPU lid. It is possible the bracket slipped during relocation or a tug on the hoses. Either way, when this is the issue you will get instant high idle temperatures the moment you boot up. Generally, CPU temps will be erratic and any kind of load will cause very high temperatures. CPU temperatures are consistently high. This is something you can fix by remounting. 2) There is a problem with the flow of water inside the cooler. This could be from a failing pump or blockage of some type. When this is the issue, your temperatures will appear almost normal on cold boot. However, slowly and gradually the water and CPU temperatures will increase. This may take several minutes before you notice. A sustained load will increase the temperature dramatically and you will not be able to lower it with fan speed since heat is not being carried to the radiator fins. This is not something you can fix and will need to RMA to cooler. It is easiest to tell these apart at cold boot. If you are running Corsair LINK, the H100i Temperature (water temp) is useful for discerning the differences. With a contact plate error, the CPU temps will be high, but the water will generally be cool to warm since much of the heat is not transferred into the system. With a flow problem, the water temperature will continue to rise as long as you are up and running. The water temp and CPU will rise together, although they may not necessarily be the same. If you are seeing water temperatures in the 50C+ range at the desktop, it very likely to be a flow problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnibravo Posted February 29, 2016 Author Share Posted February 29, 2016 Typically this is one of two problems. 1) The pump block is not making good contact with the CPU lid. It is possible the bracket slipped during relocation or a tug on the hoses. Either way, when this is the issue you will get instant high idle temperatures the moment you boot up. Generally, CPU temps will be erratic and any kind of load will cause very high temperatures. CPU temperatures are consistently high. This is something you can fix by remounting. 2) There is a problem with the flow of water inside the cooler. This could be from a failing pump or blockage of some type. When this is the issue, your temperatures will appear almost normal on cold boot. However, slowly and gradually the water and CPU temperatures will increase. This may take several minutes before you notice. A sustained load will increase the temperature dramatically and you will not be able to lower it with fan speed since heat is not being carried to the radiator fins. This is not something you can fix and will need to RMA to cooler. It is easiest to tell these apart at cold boot. If you are running Corsair LINK, the H100i Temperature (water temp) is useful for discerning the differences. With a contact plate error, the CPU temps will be high, but the water will generally be cool to warm since much of the heat is not transferred into the system. With a flow problem, the water temperature will continue to rise as long as you are up and running. The water temp and CPU will rise together, although they may not necessarily be the same. If you are seeing water temperatures in the 50C+ range at the desktop, it very likely to be a flow problem. I started the PC and noticed the temp was going up from around 40c all the way upto 91c, after 5 minutes or so it returned to 40c. Throughout the idle speeds never reached higher than 31% but were averaging around 10-15% it went up to 60-67-c once more 5 mintues later whilst the idle spped remained the same. I tried putting it on performance mode with fans on full but this made little difference then it eventually settled at 40c thereafter, during that time I was browsing it never went back up. When I have these temps I cannot feel any heat from the back processor area the exhaust fan or the top fans or the block occasionally I can feel one pipe warmer than the other but this is not consistant. I'm going to buy some thermal paste and reseat it if not I will probably swap it out for a decent air fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted February 29, 2016 Share Posted February 29, 2016 I assume you are referring to CPU temperatures and it appears to be somewhat erratic. If it goes up and then back down, it is more likely to be a contact problem. It would be normal for one tube (the outflow) to be warmer than the other (the return flow after releasing heat). You didn't mention water temperature and if you are not running LINK you won't have a way to get it. However, it is a helpful indicator of what's happening. Go ahead and remount, although simply making sure everything is tight would be a good start. You can also push down on the pump block with two fingers. If the temperature drops, you have a contact problem. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnibravo Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 I assume you are referring to CPU temperatures and it appears to be somewhat erratic. If it goes up and then back down, it is more likely to be a contact problem. It would be normal for one tube (the outflow) to be warmer than the other (the return flow after releasing heat). You didn't mention water temperature and if you are not running LINK you won't have a way to get it. However, it is a helpful indicator of what's happening. Go ahead and remount, although simply making sure everything is tight would be a good start. You can also push down on the pump block with two fingers. If the temperature drops, you have a contact problem. I have done this but no change I will reseat it during the weekend and if its not improved report it here. Thanks very much for your help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 See if you can find some water temperatures (H100i Temp or H100i Cooler Temperature). The key times are 1) right after cold boot; 2) 5-10 minutes after cold boot; 3) when your CPU temperatures enter this elevated state. Also, your hardware specifications are not listed in your profile. Not everything is relevant here, but CPU model, sometimes GPU model(s), case, and other things do factor. A 40C idle temp might immediately indicate a problem for some, but there are AMD chips that idle in that range. There isn't a place for CPU frequency and voltage in the specifications list, but you post that to give us some idea of what temperature range you should expect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnibravo Posted March 13, 2016 Author Share Posted March 13, 2016 See if you can find some water temperatures (H100i Temp or H100i Cooler Temperature). The key times are 1) right after cold boot; 2) 5-10 minutes after cold boot; 3) when your CPU temperatures enter this elevated state. Also, your hardware specifications are not listed in your profile. Not everything is relevant here, but CPU model, sometimes GPU model(s), case, and other things do factor. A 40C idle temp might immediately indicate a problem for some, but there are AMD chips that idle in that range. There isn't a place for CPU frequency and voltage in the specifications list, but you post that to give us some idea of what temperature range you should expect. Phantom 410 case Corsair H100i Water cooler Gigabyte Z77-D3H MB i5 3570K cpu Samsung Evo 840 250gb SSD 2tb Seagate 7200rpm HDD 8gb GSkrill ram (2100Mhz) AMD R9 290 vapour-x GPU Corsair RM750 PSU Windows 10 Ok After reseating the water block with new thermal paste, at boot it starts at roughly 40-46c with water temp around 34-40c, currently with just browsing the temps are at; Water Temp 34.5 cpu temp 44.0c with a range of 42-49c. When first installed the water cooler I was getting much better temps at around 28-30c water cooler was always around room temp 25-28c. Although I have not been constantly watching the 40 minutes the pc has been running the max temp was 75c at one point and nothing has been running except background apps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted March 13, 2016 Share Posted March 13, 2016 So the water temperature was in the 34-40 range when you first turned on the computer? Were you able to see the water temperature fluctuate in that range? Normally, it should be very slow to change and you should have to stare at it for minutes to see it go up 1C when at the desktop. If it changes quickly in front of you, there may be a flow problem with the system. What was the approximate room temperature when you did this? The water temperature to CPU temperature delta looks like it is within normal limits for idle, although at the higher end of the range. However, the starting water temperature suggests your room temp is in the 30-32C range, which sounds a bit warm for any where that is not a lower latitude unless you had a warm day. 75C core temps at the desktop certainly indicates there is a problem. It was not necessary to watch it the whole time, however what was the highest water temperature you noticed? There are some elements of both of the above problems and I don't have a clear indicator of the root issue yet. The difference between initial water temperature and room temperature will help. So would the max water temperature you saw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snapper69 Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Just a thought, have you checked that the cooler back plate is installed correctly, with the 2 notches matching the screws/rivets on the back of your motherboard? Unless, of course, you have one of the new V2 H100i coolers, in which case the backplate design is (I think) different. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnibravo Posted March 14, 2016 Author Share Posted March 14, 2016 Just a thought, have you checked that the cooler back plate is installed correctly, with the 2 notches matching the screws/rivets on the back of your motherboard? Unless, of corse, you have one of the new V2 H100i coolers, in which case the backplate design is (I think) different. I am looking at this as we speak from another forum the backplate nuts are loose on the inside you can move them but I'm unsure about the backplate itself it seems ok it was OK when I first installed it was like this but the temps were fine until now. What would you suggest. I'll need to look at this Tuesday evening and get back to you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted March 14, 2016 Share Posted March 14, 2016 Have a look at the installation guide in the stickies at the top of the cooling forums. There are several pictures at the very top showing the dreaded notches. http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag445/BlackOpsBoxes/Corsair%20Guide/Hydro.4_zpsdzgqw5cj.jpg The next time you boot up from a completely cold state, try and get LINK open quickly and see the water temperature. Before you hit the power button, the water, the case, the air, and everything else should be more or less room temperature. If the water temperature is getting to +10C over room temperature in less than 60 seconds, it sounds more like a pump/flow issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jonnibravo Posted March 15, 2016 Author Share Posted March 15, 2016 Have a look at the installation guide in the stickies at the top of the cooling forums. There are several pictures at the very top showing the dreaded notches. The next time you boot up from a completely cold state, try and get LINK open quickly and see the water temperature. Before you hit the power button, the water, the case, the air, and everything else should be more or less room temperature. If the water temperature is getting to +10C over room temperature in less than 60 seconds, it sounds more like a pump/flow issue. Ok I have installed the stock fan on the pc and the beginning temps are starting around 27-34c the average temp after 10 mins is roughly 35-36c, significant improvement. The highest temp recorded after 20 mins is 50c and the temps stayed pretty stable throughout there no where near as erratic. The H100i started from cold boot water temp started 31.9c probably 25c room temp and steadily rose to 38c over a few minutes then started to go back down. The cpu temps were in the 40's and were much more erratic jumping around top temp was 59c. I am seeing much more stable temps from the stock fan. Could this mean the fan has been incorrectly installed despite it initially being ok when first installed. Also what method would you use to re-apply thermal paste Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted March 16, 2016 Share Posted March 16, 2016 No, I think you need to RMA the cooler. The water is heating up too quickly and this usually means some sort of flow problem. When the pump has failed, the water temp goes up and stays up. Something else is happening here. It may either a reoccurring blockage or the pump cannot maintain a consistent flow for some other reason. Regardless, there isn't anything you can do for it without taking it apart, and that is someone else's job. Start the support ticket through the Corsair portal if you haven't already done so. The only other thing I can think of that might be on your side is if the power to unit is inconsistent. Bad SATA connection... that sort of power supply issue. It seems like the flow is "surging" on and off of for periods of time. Did any of this show up on the pump RPM in LINK? With the unit now out, I am not going to ask you to put it back in for more trouble shooting. The most likely origin of the problem is inside the unit and it's time to RMA. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vpapanik Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 Just had exactly the same issue. CPU at 100oC and no hot air out from the radiator. I tapped the radiator with my hand (slightly) and it seems that the water started to flow again. Instant hot air out, and gradual drop to 40 oC ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted June 25, 2018 Share Posted June 25, 2018 Just had exactly the same issue. CPU at 100oC and no hot air out from the radiator. I tapped the radiator with my hand (slightly) and it seems that the water started to flow again. Instant hot air out, and gradual drop to 40 oC ! Contact Tech Support through the ticket system and request a replacement. You will need to upload the purchase warranty to establish the warranty run time. The smacking/tilting/cursing approach can work short term, but the blockage you dislodge has no where to go and will come back around again to cause the trouble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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