H110i not compatible with LGA1151?

Hey guys,

 

I assume from this thread: http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?t=145486

 

That it isn't compatible, cuz if it was, the CPU cooler would make contact with CPU.

 

Seeing that after the guy applied pressure to the waterblock, the temperature fell from 80 degrees to 60 (on stress-test)

 

So I want to ask - is H110i REALLY compatible with LGA1151? I think, if it was, the guy would not need to apply pressure for the temps to fall, I assume from that, that the waterblock didn't make contact 100% with the CPU, otherwise why the need to apply manual pressure?

Yes, It is compatible with LGA1151.

 

If you see post #4, The OP has resolved the issue where the CPU is cool while stress testing.

Yes, It is compatible with LGA1151.

 

If you see post #4, The OP has resolved the issue where the CPU is cool while stress testing.

 

I quote 2nd post:

 

" While I'd still like to know for sure if I was doing something wrong with the original install, I'm itching too much to run the new system under load so I managed to work around the problem.

 

I used some plastic nuts as spacers to move the backplate out a bit, and put some thin insulating washers on the front side to protect the mobo since some traces run under where the spacers go. Re-applied some new thermal compound and now I'm running mid-50's under load "

 

and 4th post:

 

" Stress testing the build now. CPU is cool. "

 

So he reapplied thermal paste? So do I have to reapply thermal paste to fix this issue, or is this a non-issue? I want to know, cuz I am thinking of buying H110i, but the only thing hindering me is that I read it doesn't make 100% contact with CPU, and therefore doesn't cool it 100% like it should?

 

What is normal temperature for a CPU on load, like i5-6600K or i7-6700K?

I think you are taking the wrong things away from that thread. An incompatible bracket doesn't line up with the socket holes. That is quite different than one person having a hard time with the backplate. That poster has a different motherboard and cooler than the two you are looking at. If you have never mounted a cooler before, it can be a little tedious, but thousands of people have managed on a Z170 1151 board.

I think you are taking the wrong things away from that thread. An incompatible bracket doesn't line up with the socket holes. That is quite different than one person having a hard time with the backplate. That poster has a different motherboard and cooler than the two you are looking at. If you have never mounted a cooler before, it can be a little tedious, but thousands of people have managed on a Z170 1151 board.

 

So a H110i will be fine on a LGA1151 board? Didn't you just say that an incompatible bracket (1150, 1156, etc.?) won't line up with the socket holes (1151?)

 

Is the 115x bracket that comes with the H110i cooler compatible with the 1151 board? Sorry for misunderstanding.

 

Side question: will a GTX 1060 and i5-6600k bottleneck eachother? (GTX 1060 bottlenecking i5-6600k?)

 

I want to know:

 

1. Can I safely mount a H110i on a z170 1151-socket board, in a 750D case, without any compromise on performance or cooling because of H110i?

 

Can I mount a H110i on a 1151 board, as good as on a 2011- clearly compatible board?

 

I also want to know, whether the fans on the H110i is good, or should I change them to noctua fans? And if so, which fans are good?

Yes, all the Corsair coolers are compatible with socket 1151. Originally, the Z170 launched after all the current coolers were in the market, so you can cut Corsair a little slack for not recalling all the boxes at that time. The post you are referencing was written the first week Skylake launched. If you look at the H110i product page now, socket 1151 is clearly listed.

 

1) Yes, you can safely mount a H110i on a Z170. Yes, it will fit in a 750D and this forum is full of people who have done so. Without a compromise in performance or cooling? I am not really sure what you mean. You can't fit a bigger cooler in that case without going to a custom water cooling system with an independent reservoir, pump, and flow system at anywhere from 4 to 10 times the price. Everything is a compromise: size vs available space, cost, power usage. You can use a 200 gallon phase change external cooling system, but it will fill half the room and cost a year's salary.

 

2. 2011 and 2011-3 are different sockets on different boards. They have the luxury of a factory installed backplate that makes mounting the cooler child's play. Every other socket needs a backplate and it can be a little fiddly to install if you have never done it. This does not mean there is a performance difference because of the mounting.

 

3. It is best to make the fan decision yourself after receiving them and using them. You won't be able to increase your cooling performance with something else. You will be able to give up some top end speed for a quieter model. That is something you will need to weigh after some time with them.

 

As for your planning, you haven't stated your usage. I will assume gaming and the GPU is always going to be the bottleneck for gaming because we will always use the highest graphics setting we can. If you are looking for what kinds of resolutions and detail levels are possible, it would be better to search out the recent professional reviews for the brand new 1060 card.

Yes, all the Corsair coolers are compatible with socket 1151. Originally, the Z170 launched after all the current coolers were in the market, so you can cut Corsair a little slack for not recalling all the boxes at that time. The post you are referencing was written the first week Skylake launched. If you look at the H110i product page now, socket 1151 is clearly listed.

 

1) Yes, you can safely mount a H110i on a Z170. Yes, it will fit in a 750D and this forum is full of people who have done so. Without a compromise in performance or cooling? I am not really sure what you mean. You can't fit a bigger cooler in that case without going to a custom water cooling system with an independent reservoir, pump, and flow system at anywhere from 4 to 10 times the price. Everything is a compromise: size vs available space, cost, power usage. You can use a 200 gallon phase change external cooling system, but it will fill half the room and cost a year's salary.

 

2. 2011 and 2011-3 are different sockets on different boards. They have the luxury of a factory installed backplate that makes mounting the cooler child's play. Every other socket needs a backplate and it can be a little fiddly to install if you have never done it. This does not mean there is a performance difference because of the mounting.

 

3. It is best to make the fan decision yourself after receiving them and using them. You won't be able to increase your cooling performance with something else. You will be able to give up some top end speed for a quieter model. That is something you will need to weigh after some time with them.

 

As for your planning, you haven't stated your usage. I will assume gaming and the GPU is always going to be the bottleneck for gaming because we will always use the highest graphics setting we can. If you are looking for what kinds of resolutions and detail levels are possible, it would be better to search out the recent professional reviews for the brand new 1060 card.

 

So will the H110i make full contact, no problem?

 

I am thinking of going with NF-A15 fans.

 

The only thing that worries me is the compatibility. Assuming intel has not changed their bracket for 1151, it should be compatible, as you say. Will I have any difficulties lining up the brackets with the socket holes?

 

I hope they now ship it with 1151 compatible H110i's, which you mentioned. Is it clearly labelled what bracket to use when I buy the cooler? Which bracket do I use? Is it labelled "1151" ?

 

I intend to play Dark souls 3.

 

are the problems like mentioned on the linked thread, fixed, since now they support 1151? I really hope they make good contact like with any other socket.

 

How much overclock can I do on a H110i?

 

Sorry if I sound repetitive.

You will need the square NF-A14. The round A15 is for air towers.

 

All of the Corsair coolers always were compatible with socket 1151. All socket 115x are the same physical dimensions. They just weren't going to recall thousands of boxes to re-print on the label after the Z170 launched -- 3 weeks early. No physical changes were necessary. There are thousands and thousands of people using this combination of cooler and Z170.

 

You can download the installation instructions from the product webpage. There are also several guides at the top of the cooling forum. You will hit your voltage limit before you surpass the cooling capacity.

I hope the H110i don't leak or anything.

 

Btw, the noctua fans (NF-A14) I am getting run maximum 1500 RPM. While H110i is listed at maximum 2100 RPM. 2100 seems to be maximum.

 

Do you think it is best if I go with NF-A14 iPPC 2000 RPM fans? Are they static pressure optimized?

 

Are 1500 RPM fans good enough, or should I opt for 2000 RPM fans?

 

And you said that it will hit voltage limit before it surpasses cooling capacity. AFAIK, the H110i's max RPM is 2100, or so.

 

Or is a 1500 RPM fan good enough?

1500 rpm is plenty. If you were using the included SP140L fans, you would not want them running above 1500 rpm anyway. The trade-off in noise vs cooling at those speeds is a poor exchange.

 

The fans' job is to aid in the removal of heat from the water. They do not cool the CPU directly. The actual heat transfer from the CPU is through the cold plate and TIM material. This is not something you can regulate and the transfer rate is more or less fixed. The water in the system is the 'holding tank' for that transferred heat. As you add heat into the water, it's temperature will rise. Whatever your water temperature, this becomes the effective base line (minimum possible) CPU core temperatures. This is the variable you can control, however the range of your water temperature is somewhat small. So, if you have a 30C starting water temperature (your core temps will also hover around 30C) and then you initiate a stress test that brings the water temperature to 38C, the most you could ever possibly reduce the CPU temperature with any fan speed is 8C, by bringing the water temperature back to where you started. Now 8C sounds like a nice drop, but in reality nothing is 100% efficient and you can't get back down that far until the load stops. Maybe 5C at 2000 rpm. Maybe 4C at 1500 RPM. And now there is the issue. Do I want to double my fan noise to take 1-2C off my CPU core temperatures? Probably not.

 

You cannot prevent voltage from passing through the CPU. The cooling is done after the fact on the other side. It prevents heat from being retained in the CPU. So if you set your Vcore to 1.80v, it won't matter how fast the cooler transfers the heat out, you are melting the silicon the instant the voltage touches the CPU and that will always happen first. You cannot stop the instant temperature rise in the CPU material when you apply any voltage. You can only transfer it out after the fact. This is how all coolers work, air or water. Exotic cooling methods involve lowering the base temperature of the CPU to something so low that even the +150C you are adding will still keep the CPU below it's melting point. On Skylake this point where the instant voltage induced temperature rise begins to be too much is back at a more reasonable 1.40v.

So my minimum temperature for the cpu is determined by the water temperature.

 

Water temperature can minimum be what the ambient temperature of the environment.

 

Temperature does not impact performance. So going 2000 rpm for a reduction of 1-2 degrees with the trade off being noise, is not worth it.

 

So minimum temperatures are restricted by water temperatures and the environmental temperatures.

 

However, I rather have silence but the extra 1-2 degrees, over noise. As you suggest.

 

Assuming I am going to overclock, will the temperatures maximum be 62-70 degrees?

 

So

 

drop in temperature < noise level / silent

 

Since temperatures have no impact on performance, as long as they do not reach dangerous temperatures, (which I assume to be 80-and beyond. )

 

I'd like my temperatures to be under 70. So do you ever think I'd need 2000 rpm in case the temperatures enter 80- and beyond?

 

How fast the cooler cools, is fixed, however how fast I can cool the WATER is in my control (higher rpm = cooler water?

I think you get it. Can you keep it below 70C? That will depend on your room temperature and the voltage you apply to it. It will also depend on the load. Can you keep it under 70C for your normal use? Absolutely. Stress tests are something different, but most people do not need to set-up their system for maximum sustained 100% load. So if your stress test peaks out at 72C with the fans at 1500 rpm, would 2000 rpm get you to 70C? Probably. By that is 2C in a scenario most people don't encounter. Back at the lower loads, that increase in fan speed is no longer necessary to achieve the same results, which you can demonstrate at idle.

 

Most of us keep our fans at minimal levels for quiet desktop work. Right now my water temp is 25C in a 23C room. The fans were at 550 rpm (Noctua NF-A14 industrial ppc 2000). I have now set them to maximum (1890 rpm - radiator restricted). It took about 20 seconds, but I was able to reduce the water temp to 23C, or likely a few tenths above the 22.8C I am measuring at the case intake point. This is as low as I can go. I repeated the test with 1000 rpm. Same result. Might have taken 5 seconds longer, but I didn't bother to clock it. At this stepped down level with all my cores resting at 1200 MHz, the fans can remove heat from the system as fast I can add it. It sounds overly simplistic, but your water temperature rises when the fans cannot remove the heat from the system as fast as the CPU adds it.

 

Water temperature is slow to change, both up and down. Put 16oz of water in the tea kettle and put in on the stove. It does boil in 10 seconds. It will take several minutes to reach that level. Your CPU is not gas burner, although the 4670K was close. It will also take a few minutes to cool down and you certainly don't want to pour in on your hand, even 5 minutes later. The more water in your system, the more energy it takes to raise the water temperature by 1C. This is one of the reasons larger coolers have an advantage over the single slot ones. If connect my pump to 100 gallon water tank outside the case, I probably don't need a radiator or fans at all and simply can cycle new water into the system. The warmer water will return to the tank and the heat will release into the room on its own.

 

However, remember the voltage has to pass through the CPU first. You can compare how much of your heat is voltage related compared to how much is retained waste heat (water temperature) by comparing your 100% load CPU core temps to the water temperature and then both the starting and load water temperature marks. At your stock settings, your peak CPU core temps may only be 20-25C above the water temperature. 30C water temp - 55C max CPU temp. The more voltage you add, the larger the gap. At 1.25v, it might be +30C. 1.30, +35C, 1.40, +50C. And that's the way this works. At some point, the increase in voltage induced temperature starts to drastically jump. That is the line you usually want to stay one step behind. At +50C, I need to keep my water temp under 30C in order to stay below 80C core temperature. And this is why amateur overclockers like to run their benchmarks in Winter, with the windows open. Make it 9C in your room and you have lowered the starting point by 21C. Now that +50C is only 59C. Button up your jacket. Ironically, controlling your room temperature often makes more of a difference than the fan speed. I could never take 21C off anything with fans, no matter how fast. Unfortunately, not everyone has that ability to control their environment. If you are in a tiny dorm room at college, you can't do much with your room temp other than open the window. Worse still, when you game the GPU and overall system waste heat can actually increase the room temperature and certainly the internal case temperature where the water reservoir is located. This is an example of how your water temperature can change from non-CPU load related heat sources. Putting the CPU in a cabinet or wedging it between the desk and the wall has the potential to create a small hot zone around the case. This does affect the air and water temperature inside the case and thus the CPU temps as well.

So lets recap:

 

Increasing RPM may decrease temperatures by 1-2 degrees, however controlling room temperatures will have a bigger impact on increasing or decreasing the temperatures.

 

So say the room temperature is 22 degrees, the fans can decrease the temperatures to a minimum of 22 degrees.

 

I am thinking of using NT-H1 thermal paste. I don't need to apply much, except for little (a little seed-sized drop, right?) I suspect that thermal paste has an impact on performance. I really don't want my temperatures to be any higher than 70, 80 being max.

 

How hard can I push my CPU on a H110i, before it goes up to 70? Besides, how doesn't the water in the H110i dissipate?

 

I know the water is preapplied. I don't want my motherboard to melt.

 

So the factors that can decrease temperatures:

 

Fan RPM --> directly cools water temperatures.

The heatsink, directly cools the cpu.

Thermal paste?

Environmental temperatures.

 

Factors that increase temps:

 

Voltage,

The environmental temperatures

water,

 

how high can temperatures on a CPU on FULL 100% load overclock, be? I assume that an H110i is only suitable for mild overclock, NOT extreme overclocking. Excuse my ignorance, but I wish corsair used aluminium fins on the radiator to more effectively cool the water down, with the use of fans.

 

The environment has a direct impact on water temps. Say water temperature is 30C.

Stock settings --> 20-25 degrees + 30 = 50-55C - max. 30- minimum.

 

So do I need external sources to cool the water down? A good ventilated room will do better than any fan can do. As you said. But fans are essential, as it helps guide / direct the air to the necessary components.

 

I assume water cools better than air. Because with water it is easier to spread the heat. But the minimum temperature is determined more by the environment, as water temps are dependent on the temps of the environment.

 

The air that comes from the front intake fans cools the harddrives, that used air then cools the GPU. The air used up by the GPU then spreads around, warming up other components.

 

Won't the rear exhaust fan take care of the GPU? Btw, I am thinking of having H110i on Top as intake, is that good? If I missed anything then please do notify me.

I would recommend you set the H110i fans to exhaust out the top, if this is for the 750D. Using slightly cooler external air usually does not compensate for dumping all the CPU waste heat into the case, which then adds to the local and baseline water temperature anyway. If that is a zero sum game, then it is certainly better to use the fans as exhaust to help balance the intake vs exhaust rates. 4 intake fans versus 1 exhaust fan will leave hot air in the case, waiting to leave. However, every situation is unique and your are welcome to try both ways. CPU only results are likely to be quite similar. Top intake usually causes overall higher system temperatures when there is also a GPU load present.

 

Noctua NH-T1 is just fine and I used it for years. However, use the pre-applied TIM on the block on your first install. There is no temperature advantage to be gained there between the two. Skill in applying it usually trumps thermal conductivity differences (if any). At some point, you'll have to take it off and can then clean and use the NT-H1. Take the free stuff the first time.

 

No you don't need external cooling sources to have a cool system. However, it is very common for people to fret about minor fan differences or trivial design features, when the far heavier factors in their current temperatures are environmental in origin. It was also a way to introduce the topic of seasonal water temp changes. It makes perfect sense when you think about it, but a lot of us have images of this CPU floating in a cool tube of water, immune to all around it. Or maybe it's hot today and I just want to go for a swim. Yes, water does conduct energy better than air. This, in combination with the volume of water in the system, give water coolers an advantage over an air tower.

 

I am afraid I can't give specifics on where you can get with Skylake. Most people need to stop for voltage reasons between 1.35 and 1.40v. That usually allows a clock speed of 4.6 to 4.8GHz, but of course that is very CPU dependent. Whether or not that takes you over 80C will depend on your unique CPU, the exact voltage, and of course the environment and everything else we have talked about. However, you cannot get more cooling than the H110i without going to a very expensive custom system, something I suggest you not pursue at this point. On most any 95 watt TDP CPU, you will reach the point where the voltage is too high for the CPU before you loose control over your ability to cool the water.

I just want stable temperatures.

 

Say, I go with H110i, with Noctua 2000 RPM fans (140mm). I think I will set the voltage to around 1.35 MAX.. as I am new to overclock, I need to start out small.

 

So with this, I think I will buy:

 

1. 750D,

2. EVGA 750 G2,

3. SSD, 250 GB.

4. HDD, 1 TB,

5. DVD,

6. Motherboard: asus pro gaming z170.

7. CPU: i5-6600K

8. CPU-cooler: H110i GTX

9. RAM: 8 GB, 2133 Mhz, (how do I know how much Mhz I can go up? )

10. GPU: GTX 1060.

 

11. OS: windows 10 32/64-bit (64-bit version)

12. Monitor: BenQ 24" RL2455HM

13. WiFi adapter: Asus PCE AC56

14. Antistatic armband (1.8 m)

 

15. Noctua NT-H1

16. 2x Noctua NF-A14 iPPC 2000 RPM.

 

Can I push new titles with these at max settings with stable 60 fps on 1080p?

 

What I want to know is, at stock settings, how many games can I play at max settings on a 1080p monitor?

 

Seeing that H110i GTX is compatible, I hope that it will have 100% contact with CPU.

This I can't help you with. The GPU is the limiting factor and you'll need to find some professional reviews of the 1060 to see what kind of frame rates are possible at Ultra@1080p. CPU cooling (and clock frequency) will not be a factor in this. You can overclock the memory, but be moderate in your plans. That motherboard appears to have issues with very high RAM speeds and you likely noticed the perpetual thread in the Memory section. Doesn't matter for gaming or most anything else. 3200MHz vs 2666 is will not boost your day (or frame rates).

Ok, I have changed from:

 

ASUS GeForce GTX 1060 ROG Strix Gaming

 

to

 

MSI GeForce GTX 1060 Gaming X.

 

Is that ok? For 10£ cheaper.

 

Do you recommend me changing z170 pro gaming (asus) ? Are there other z170 boards without the ram issues?

I can't say much about the GPUs. I haven't even glanced at the new 1060s. A good comprehensive review should highlight any differences. Frame rate scores will be closely ties to clock settings which are absolutely adjustable after the fact, so go with a brand you trust or visually like the card.

 

There are a lot of components in building a PC. Most people have a spending limit and you always have to compromise somewhere. However, the two places I would be reluctant to cut corners are on the motherboard and the power supply. Nothing has an impact on everything you do like these two components. Besides the face of your build, the motherboard has a daily impact on your use through fan controls, PCI-E slot arrangements, and power regulation for board components. It's build quality will have an impact on your higher end overclocking ability. Unfortunately, most manufactures are not all that forthcoming on the key physical specifications for low to mid range boards. When a board looks the same, but is $70 cheaper, it's not the same. You have selected a motherboard that has a known limitation, to which the manufacturer's representative responded, "you should have bought a better board." Not exactly a ringing endorsement and if I had bought one, I would have a few choice words in response.

 

The same for the PSU. If you are building a standard system meant to run a stock levels, then you have a bit of leeway. If you are going to overclock or run high draw GPUs or a large number of components, make sure the signal quality is there. There is nothing as difficult as trying to diagnose a power supply problem that only shows itself sporadically. I am not an expert at stripping down a PSU. Fortunately, there are people who are. Find good professional reviewers who are taking about things you don't understand. Then re-read it until you have an inkling of what they are talking about. That does not mean go out and buy an expensive 1200w PSU. Figure out how much power you need, then find a reliable brand in that wattage with good power signal scores. Then you never need to think about the PSU again.

I have a 6600K overclocked to 4.5 Ghz at 1.27V cooled by the older H110i GT and it get's no higher than 60 degrees, even when playing Fallout 4 at 4K.

 

The speed of the Ram that you can use is usually governed by the motherboard spec.

 

The fans you have chosen are likely to be quite loud at the higher speed (the i stands for Industrial), if you can live with that, fine, but the brown ones would be quieter and nearly as good. I would be tempted to try the stock fans first to see if they suit your needs, if they don't, you can always change them later

I have a 6600K overclocked to 4.5 Ghz at 1.27V cooled by the older H110i GT and it get's no higher than 60 degrees, even when playing Fallout 4 at 4K.

 

The speed of the Ram that you can use is usually governed by the motherboard spec.

 

The fans you have chosen are likely to be quite loud at the higher speed (the i stands for Industrial), if you can live with that, fine, but the brown ones would be quieter and nearly as good. I would be tempted to try the stock fans first to see if they suit your needs, if they don't, you can always change them later

 

I hope mine won't have any defects. I am thinking of changing motherboard, because I am sceptical about their terrible support.. So if anything was to go wrong with my board, I'd have to go through Hell to have my motherboard fixed. As such I don't trust ASUS.

 

So I thought of changing to MSI Z170A Gaming M7, albeit a bit more expensive.

 

I am a bit of a silence freak. I can tolerate some sound but not noisy-sounds. I am not bothered by the design. As long as it is good.

 

so, I think I will take the NF-A14. It is just that I've read reviews stating that one of the fans makes a lot of noise on the H110i.

To be fair, the stock fans on mine have been pretty good, but they can be a bit noisy, so I've been seduced by the new ML 140 fans. Arrived yesterday and I will fit them asap.

 

I really like my Asus board, I bought it from Amazon, so if there's a problem, their excellent Customer Service will sort it out.

To be fair, the stock fans on mine have been pretty good, but they can be a bit noisy, so I've been seduced by the new ML 140 fans. Arrived yesterday and I will fit them asap.

 

I really like my Asus board, I bought it from Amazon, so if there's a problem, their excellent Customer Service will sort it out.

 

I would have bought an ASUS Z170 VIII Hero board or something, if it wasn't for their terrible support. IF their board works, it is excellent, but if it doesn't, you are on your own, or so I've been reading.

 

Do you have any RAM-related issues? I've changed to this motherboard (Is it good for Overclocking?)

 

MSI Z170 Gaming Pro Carbon.

My previous motherboard was an MSI Z77A-GD65 LGA 1155 one, which was very good, I nearly went for the Msi Titanium one for my Skylake build, but, from memory, it didn't have enough Sata sockets. However my previous Msi board was good for overclocking.

 

I bought good quality memory at a reasonable price/speed, installed it set it in the bios and it works.

 

I can't comment on Asus customer service, but under UK/European law, the retailer is responsible for the warrantee for the first 12 months, so I bought mine from Amazon.