EchoSierra

Hi there, Not sure if you have solved your issue but here is some info. The cooler that came with this system is custom so you will not find it anywhere. Corsair also don't sell it. The only thing you can do now is to remove it completely (including the radiator) and install an air cooler. The two that I can recommend are the Noctua NH-L12S or the Alpenfohn Black Ridge, both of which are compatible with either Intel or AMD. I am assuming you haven't upgraded the system. These two coolers will work well as they will still draw air from the side inwards and it can then be pushed out the top just the way the case was designed. The only drawback is that you will need to use a software called Fan Control. This will allow you to set the top fan to react to both GPU and CPU temps. Without it, the top fan can only be configured to react to CPU temps. I have installed the Alpenfohn cooler in the past and worked like a charm. I did go back to the factory liquid cooler as mine still works, and I upgraded to 12th gen which runs a bit hotter.

@windsorh0104 Thanks! So I have the i7 10700F which already doesn't consume as much power as a K variant. But still, temps can get up to 80C on games like Rainbow Six Siege as it supports multi-thread (though I have a 1500 RPM fan; yours is 2000 RPM hence why it gets loud). I'm not surprised about your temps as any K variant consumes a fair bit of power and they always run hot. I would still recommend to maybe re-paste the CPU and make sure that the cooler is properly seated so it spreads the paste evenly on the CPU. Are you still using the Corsair Link software that came with the system? If not, maybe install it back just so you can monitor coolant temp and make sure it is running normally.

@mkriese Nice job on the upgrade!!! hope it gives you many more years. I upgraded mine with a 10th gen i7 and a RTX 3070. I have the model that came with the air cooled GTX 1070 back in the day and so the swap was even easier. @Corsair Albert My graphics card is 282mm in length and there is still a tiny bit of space under it so I would say that's about at the limit that you can fit comfortably. Thanks to Corsair for making the only C1 with an air cooled graphics card. Made upgrading that much easier. 🤭

Not sure if this is still relevant but first of all, what model do you have? The reason for the question is because the orientation of the GPU is different depending on the model. 2017/18 versions had the GPU bracket mounted at the upper part of the case, while 2019 onwards and current models have the GPU bracket mounted at the lower part of the case. I have a 2017 model so I can tell you that any 280mm card will fit just fine but make sure it is not too wide. I put an RTX 3070 which is L=280, W=115, H=41. If you have a 2019 model then I am actually not sure if you can fit a 3 fan GPU in it as the mounting orientation changed and so I do not know how much room you have length wise. I think a 2 fan GPU might be fine but again, not sure. Wish I could get a 2019 model to fiddle around with and find out. Also, when upgrading the GPU, you will have to get a new riser cable that supports at least PCIe gen 3. Again, I can only speak for 2017 model, that one had a gen 2 riser cable only so I couldn't get an image displayed on the monitor until I realised I had to get a gen 3. As for the motherboard, most ITX motherboards (including x670) will fit but you have to make sure that the mounting bracket of the liquid cooler will be compatible. If not you might have to look into compact air coolers which work well but it depends on not fitting a CPU that's too powerful. If the C1 model you have has an intel motherboard then I can tell you the cooler bracket will fit 12th and 13th gen but you will have to buy the revised mounting screws for LGA1700 socket. Hope this helps.

Some things you could try: - Make sure you have updated iCUE to the latest version. If you have, then try fully uninstalling iCUE (Including registry entries) then re-install it. - Make sure your BIOS is updated to the latest that Corsair have provided for your C1 model. - With your PC off, remove the RAM sticks and then put them back in, making sure that they are seated properly. - Clear the motherboard CMOS. If this doesn't work, unless someone else can pitch in with other options, you can try doing a clean install of Windows before going the RMA route.

Good work!!! I'm glad you found it straight forward. It's just a matter of taking your time and it's actually not bad working in this system. For the front LEDs, yes they would need to be connected to a 4 pin connector but unfortunately your new mobo doesn't have one. Only an addressable RGB connector which as you said is 3 pin and won't work with these old LEDs. Hopefully the converter works for you.

@MikeDC Yeah I can definitely confirm that the NF-A14 has a max speed of 1500 RPM as that's the one I installed in mine. And also, yes the original corsair fan has a max speed of 1200 RPM. Used to be so quite but now it really is not usable anymore with new components that run hotter. I tried a corsair ML-140 that has a max speed of 2000 RPM but I found it to be a bit too loud for my liking and it only decreased temps by about 3 or 4C. So the Noctua fan turned out to be the sweet spot for me.

Nice job on the upgrade! I'm glad you were able to solve the issues. It's a really good system! The original C1 is probably the most reliable of the three generations so far. Especially because even though it was using corsair link customized for the C1, this software at least for me has proven to be more reliable than iCUE given people's stories with the other two generations of C1. I've got a 10th gen CPU/motherboard and a RTX 3070 (air cooled) and I'm still using the original CPU liquid cooler with no issues at all. Top fan was upgraded to a Noctua one that goes to 1500 RPM. And I'm using the corsair link software so I still get coolant temp monitoring and the top fan runs with the default fan curve which never gave issues like iCUE is doing with the new C1s. Looking forward to when you upgrade the rest. 🤘

One more thing I would recommend is to try your best to check if you would be able to mount the original GPU cooler on the new graphics card as that whole mounting bracket on the original was custom made for that specific 1080 PCB. Each PCB is different with each generation so even the new C1 systems have different mounting brackets for the GPU. It would be best to make sure as much as possible before disassembling the new graphics card as that will open a can of worms in the form of working out the thickness of the thermal pads used to transfer heat from the VRAM and VRM modules to the card's heat sink. Good luck with the upgrade!

The card will run fine but it will run at PCIe 2. Not a big deal as each generation brings small increments. One thing to keep in mind is when you do upgrade the rest of the components you will need to upgrade the riser cable as well to a PCIe 4 compatible one. The motherboard will detect that the GPU is PCIe 4 so it will default to that speed but if the riser cable is not compatible with PCIe 4 then you will not get an image on your monitor from the GPU. As far as keeping the HD and OS I recommend to do a clean install as you will be putting new components that use different drivers. This is best so that there is no conflict between old/different drivers trying to operate new hardware.

@obinna.obscure If your GPU doesn't turn on on initial start up then It could be it is not getting power and that would be why there is no display on your monitor. How many power connectors does your GPU have? Are you using all?

It should fit without much issue. To give you an idea my RTX 3070 triple fan card is L=282 W=115 H=41 mm The 3080 Ti FE is L=285 W=112 H=40 mm In my case there is still a tiny bit of space left at the bottom of the card. So the 3080 Ti FE might just need a bit of manoeuvring to get to it fit but it should work.

The pumps have their own firmware built into them along with a default fan curve for the top fan. So technically they can run without iCUE no problem. However, updates to fan curves are only offered through iCUE. But if the default fan curve is good enough you could run them without the software. The only other 'benefit' to iCUE is coolant temp monitoring. So, you can connect the top fan of the case directly to the motherboard and should be able to use the software Fan Control, and iCUE can be used for monitoring coolant temps only. In the original C1 the pumps are actually DC configured instead of PWM which means they only ever have two speeds: 0 RPM or max RPM. I'm not sure about the new C1 but I would think it's the same for the sake of temps. So you don't really need iCUE to run the pumps but you'll need to monitor coolant temps. Pump speed can also be monitored with HWinfo.

No problem. Any time! For the top fan, you can connect it to the motherboard to one of the fan headers. But be aware that you will loose the feature that allows the fan to react to GPU temps as well. If the fan is connected directly to the motherboard, it will only react to CPU temps which means if the GPU is working hard but not the CPU, the GPU might be throwing heat into the case. Just keep in mind things might get hot. The way to counter this would be to manually set a fan speed for the top fan using software for when you use the GPU heavily. One thing you will need to do if you want to connect the fan to the motherboard, is to buy a PWM extension cable. The fan connector is quite short so you will need minimum a 300mm extension cable so you can connect it to the motherboard. Here's an example https://www.silverstonetek.com/product.php?pid=486&area=en Definitely go with the Gaming OC. It should fit just fine and you get better cooling with three fans than the dual fan Eagle. Good luck with it!

Hey @MikeDC. Nice to see you want to upgrade your 2017 C1. I have one myself but mine came with an air cooled GTX 1070. So this made it easier to upgrade the graphics card. Now it is rocking an RTX 3070. I've also upgraded the motherboard and the CPU. To answer your first question, yes absolutely you can install an SF600 or SF750 as they are both the same size as the original PSU. If you go for the RTX 3060 then SF600 will be enough. If you go for the RTX 3080 then definitely you should go with the SF750. I installed the SF600 in mine and it works like a charm. I am also using the original cable that was connected to the GTX 1070 without issues, I just had to add a second cable as my graphics card came with two power connectors. That second cable was just from the cables that came with the new SF600 PSU. Now for the second question. This will be a little more involved because you have the liquid cooled GPU. First of all, yes you will have to remove all that GPU assembly in order to install an air cooled graphics card. The top fan is indeed connected to the GPU cooler. No you cannot connect it to the CPU cooler. However, you can try and swap coolers and use the GPU cooler on the CPU side as they are both the same size and the bracket is actually the same geometry as the CPU side. How I know this is that since my C1 came with an air cooled graphics card, the CPU cooler on mine is actually the one used for the GPU cooler on yours. You will need to be careful with the tubes as they are long but you should be able to fit it. Worth the try because if successful, the top fan will still be able to react to both GPU and CPU temps; whichever runs hotter. In terms of going for a TURBO version of any graphics card, the two downsides are noise (it can sound like a mini jet engine), and GPU temps (turbo cards usually run in the 80C range, though this is by design). You should be fine with a triple fan graphics card but you might need to undervolt the GPU so it draws less power and thus produces less heat so your display ports and cables don't get too hot. I have a triple fan GPU in mine. I do undervolt as I play games for extended periods of time. In terms of size these are the dimensions of mine for reference: L=282 W=115 H=41 mm. This leaves plenty of room for cables and the card fits nicely. I highly recommend to upgrade the top fan to improve air flow and cooling. I have a Noctua NF-A14 PWM black which runs at up to 1500RPM which is a nice compromise between noise and cooling compared to the original fan which tops at 1200RPM. In terms of the build itself, it will require patience simply because there is not a lot of space. But it won't be too challenging as long as you are willing to understand how the system is put together. Let us know how you go. Looking forward to it!