Soraky Posted August 27, 2017 Share Posted August 27, 2017 Hey all, I know this was brought up many times and I've read every post I could find but a) I'm quite a noob to this and really am afraid to ruin anything in my PC and b) I didn't see anyone having this specific problem (I really hope I didn't miss anything). Sorry for the long story: I built my first gaming PC and I love it but under load (While gaming on max settings) the PC noise was really loud. I could have gotten used to it but a specific sound made me lose it. It was a sound that changed in volume, like a roaring motorcycle (but not as loud of course). It itched my ear because it wasn't consistent. After looking, listening and slightly touching every fan in the system I couldn't find the reason for it. I thought it was because of my H100i V2 CPU cooler but adjusting the fans\pump at the Corsair LINK didn't seem to do anything. Eventually, I made a custom profile for the fans and immediately the loud noise plus the annoying sound went away. Apparently, for some reason, the fans went full throttle even when they weren't supposed to. Yet, even on the custom profile, Corsair LINK shows the fan speed at 0 for some reason? I'm really confused about it: http://i.imgur.com/u8dXhOs.png So, TLDR: Is this an OK custom fans speed profile (The pump is set to performance)? Why doesn't the fan speed show? How can I tell the actual liquid temperatures? I've read that using washers on the back plate of the H100i V2 should really help, is it true? Will anyone mind showing me exactly how? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted August 27, 2017 Share Posted August 27, 2017 The 0 rpm seems to happen on mine when the fan drops below 800 rpm or so As long as the fan still looks like it's spinning, and temps are good, you should be fine :) I have to do custom curve too... even on 'quiet' it is quite loud... At least... it used to report "0" at low rpms... I think that might be at really, really low rpms... like if you have it turned down on the Motherboard as long as all the way on the custom curve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted August 28, 2017 Share Posted August 28, 2017 1) Your liquid/coolant temperature is the "H100i v2 Temp" in Link. In your screen shot, it is 31.6C - a very normal number. You will see rises of 6-12C, depending on application. Usually, a CPU only load might be less than a combination GPU/CPU load because of the additional heat created by the GPU(s). This affects the base coolant temperature as part of the case environment, even though it does not directly receive heat from it. Where most people get caught off-guard is the 40C=100% fan speed line. There is nothing special about 40C, but if you were starting from a "normal" base temperature of 20-23C, that would represent a large amount of heat in the system. The problem is most people aren't in a 20C environment for at least half the year. Nevertheless, they had to pick something as a basis. Most people need seasonal fan curves. There is no point running the max performance curve in Summer. No matter how fast the fans go, you can't reduce the coolant temp below where you started. It's a lot of noise for no gains. I can't quite see exactly your point values, but it appears fine for warm weather (and probably Winter too). In general terms, coolant temps over 50C are concerning, so if can spike the fan speed after that mark. You should not hit that and if you do, the fans will tell you. I don't find the stock fans very pleasing and there is no reason to run them at 2000+ RPM. It won't help. 2) You don't need washers unless you are having a serious contact issue between the board, CPU, and cold plate. This is not something that makes it all work better. They are used to address a deficiency or irregularity in one of the pieces. 3) I don't know why it reads zero RPM. Perhaps one of the fans has a damaged speed wire. Perhaps it is something more elaborate. An easy thing to try is to switch the fan connectors on the pump leads. Link should then try to read the other fan instead. That also doubles as a connection check. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soraky Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 The 0 rpm seems to happen on mine when the fan drops below 800 rpm or so As long as the fan still looks like it's spinning, and temps are good, you should be fine :) I have to do custom curve too... even on 'quiet' it is quite loud... At least... it used to report "0" at low rpms... I think that might be at really, really low rpms... like if you have it turned down on the Motherboard as long as all the way on the custom curve Thanks for your insight about the RPMs :) 1) Your liquid/coolant temperature is the "H100i v2 Temp" in Link. In your screen shot, it is 31.6C - a very normal number. You will see rises of 6-12C, depending on application. Usually, a CPU only load might be less than a combination GPU/CPU load because of the additional heat created by the GPU(s). This affects the base coolant temperature as part of the case environment, even though it does not directly receive heat from it. Where most people get caught off-guard is the 40C=100% fan speed line. There is nothing special about 40C, but if you were starting from a "normal" base temperature of 20-23C, that would represent a large amount of heat in the system. The problem is most people aren't in a 20C environment for at least half the year. Nevertheless, they had to pick something as a basis. Most people need seasonal fan curves. There is no point running the max performance curve in Summer. No matter how fast the fans go, you can't reduce the coolant temp below where you started. It's a lot of noise for no gains. I can't quite see exactly your point values, but it appears fine for warm weather (and probably Winter too). In general terms, coolant temps over 50C are concerning, so if can spike the fan speed after that mark. You should not hit that and if you do, the fans will tell you. I don't find the stock fans very pleasing and there is no reason to run them at 2000+ RPM. It won't help. 2) You don't need washers unless you are having a serious contact issue between the board, CPU, and cold plate. There are not something that makes it all work better. They are used to address a deficiency or irregularity in one of the pieces. 3) I don't know why it reads zero RPM. Perhaps one of the fans has a damaged speed wire. Perhaps it is something more elaborate. An easy thing to try is to switch the fan connectors on the pump leads. Link should then try to read the other fan instead. That also doubles as a connection check. Thank you very much for your detailed answer. I do live in a very hot region and my PC is sitting below my desk in (kind of) a box. I thought about moving it somewhere with far more space around it, so it may also help. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Okay I just confirmed 0 rpm happens whenever the fan speed is set below a certain amount in the bios... I even tried doing "max rpm" but it still reported 0... but the noise increased so I knew it obviously increased It's around 60% or so... if I have it set below that it'll report 0 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Yes, try not to use the BIOS as a way to control the H100i v2 or adjust its fans when they are connected to the pump's fan controller. The system is designed to run from a 12v signal. Throttling it down will slow both the pump and fans, certainly affect performance, and possibly have an effect on longevity. Keep the CPU fan header set to "Full Speed" in Q-fan or "disabled" in the advanced BIOS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Except I'd like the pump rpm to increase as temps increase By turning it down in the bios, I can have it idle at 1800, turn up to about 2400 at medium temps and go up to the max 3100ish at high temps Heh... I remember when I had it turned way down in the bios and I'd try quiet mode and temps would be really high and I'd be like "wow, that's a pretty drastic increase in temps" and then I realized the pump rpm was only 900... duh Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 I would suggest putting it on quiet mode and leaving it. The highest speed won't make much difference except in extreme usage and you would know in advance what you were going to do. Small changes in pump speed might cause an audible difference, but not much else. You'll probably get your wish on the next generation coolers. They are likely to be dynamically adjustable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tallfeather Posted August 30, 2017 Share Posted August 30, 2017 Pump speed doesn't usually have a very big impact on cooling performance. As long as fresh coolant continually comes in and moves through the radiator, it's fine. As c-attack says, there are specific cases where you're REALLY burning the CPU where you need higher flow, but this honestly doesn't occur in any realistic case I've seen. As such, set it low and leave it, and vary fan speeds - airflow makes a bigger difference if you actually need it. Although even then, I have a high clocked CPU and do just fine with low fan and pump RPMS. It warms up a bit, but never gets anywhere within a mile of a concern. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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