Bryman Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 So... just recently the liquid is over 60 degrees at full load with both fans running at max speed... and at full load the cpu hits 100 degrees and I get a BSOD within a minute or so... even at half load some cores are 95 degrees... but at least I don't BSOD then... http://i.imgur.com/0bmhZF7.png Both tubes feel warm but one just feels somewhat warm while one feels really warm Pump SEEMS to be working fine... and it's reporting the correct RPM Both fans are working fine... So... Yeah..... It's something... but pump SEEMS to be working fine and both fans are working fine... and I haven't changed the setup of anything Any help would be appreciated Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
red-ray Posted August 26, 2017 Share Posted August 26, 2017 The pump speed is slightly faster than I would expect and suspect something has failed. Request an RMA via https://support.corsair.com/ and see what they think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted August 27, 2017 Author Share Posted August 27, 2017 Hmm... But I think it's always been ~3100 rpm at 100% speed IIRC But, I'll open up a ticket anyway and see Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted August 27, 2017 Share Posted August 27, 2017 The 61C coolant temp (H80i v2 Temp) is the concerning part and that is likely what was implied with 'failed'. Rather than a pump electrical failure, it is possible something has gone wrong mechanically (failure to move fluid) or there may be some sort of physical restriction. Both of those have been known to cause slightly higher than expected pump speeds. Regardless, your coolant temp is way out of bounds and something is wrong. The only other thing that might be able to cause this is extreme and prolonged GPU heat. 1080 SLI might be able to locally heat up the H80i, if it were right above in the rear slot. Still, I don't see any other data to suggest the case is that hot in that area and that would be still quite extreme. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted August 27, 2017 Author Share Posted August 27, 2017 Except I always keep my case open... also I rarely game (why did I even buy 2 video cards lol) It's annoying because if I forget to run a cpu intensive application (like video encoding) at half cores then I will BSOD within a minute... I even tried raising the voltage but apparently the processor doesn't like running at 100 degrees... It's only at that temp for a few minutes so I doubt it's causing any significant permanent damage but it is quite annoying Yeah, normally it's 50 degrees TOPS and that's with fans running at a relatively low speed and cpu load at 100%... so over 60 degrees at max fan speed... that's... not good Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted August 27, 2017 Author Share Posted August 27, 2017 Hmm... the top tube feels really, really warm after running the cpu at high loads while the bottom tube feels relatively cool... But temps do seem to be quite high... Okay... just felt it again after having something run for a while (before I felt it like 5 minutes after I ran something) top tube is so hot that it almost burns my hand if I hold it long enough... But bottom tube still feels relatively cool... It's showing it right at about 60 degrees, currently Also, a fan speed of ~1200 rpm versus a fan speed of ~2500 rpm seems to make almost no difference... even though it's double the rpm... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted August 27, 2017 Author Share Posted August 27, 2017 ugh.... at 60 degrees it seems to force the fans to 100%... how do I change that There's literally no cooling difference whatsoever between 1200 rpm and 2500 rpm... there's no reason at all why they should need to blast really loud if there's literally not a degree drop in temp between 1200 and 2500... Hmm... I think it might be because I had the lost dot on the curve set at 60 degrees.. I only had it set at like 40% fan speed but I think after the last dot it sets the fans to 100%... Let's see if this fixes it Edit: nope... Great... core temp was only about 90-95 degrees running Handbrake on only I think 6 threads? (3 cores out of 6) but I just got a BSOD and it said DPC Watchdog Violation I could up the voltage some or lower the clock speed by 100mhz... the voltage is only at like 1.26 currently Ugh... and pump temp is still going up... http://i.imgur.com/agjcwnp.png I'm only running 2 out of 6 cores right now... Pump temp is currently about to hit 60 degrees as I'm typing this now... fan speed is at 1100mhz... it's about to force to 2500... again... I'm tired of getting these BSODs Watchdog Timeout DPC Watchdog Violation WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR and even IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL all because of the cpu temp being too high... And the fans blasting to 100%... there's like no difference whatsoever between 1100 rpm and 2600 rpm as far as temperature goes... so why does it turn it up to 2600 rpm? There has to be a way to disable that... I must of enabled something that once it hits 60 degrees it'll turn the fans to 100%... Okay, yeah... the air coming out of it is actually pretty cool... and the bottom tube is pretty cool... the top tube is so hot it almost burns my hand... Soooooo.. it says it's 54 degrees at idle right now.. buuut.. the top tube is still almost burning my hand, while the bottom one feels pretty cool... I'd say the top tube is AT LEAST around 70 degrees... I mean, it's rubber... so the transfer of heat shouldn't be that much... if it was metal I'd say 50 to 55 degrees... but rubber probably 70 to 80 degrees... I could be way off.. I mean... there's just too many factors to consider... but the top tube is very, very hot... probably around the feel if metal was 50-55 degrees.... I mean it could be as low as 45.... idk The point is that it feels pretty hot... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted August 27, 2017 Share Posted August 27, 2017 You should stop. While the rubber tubing is not likely to fail, you are keeping your CPU at an elevated temperature for a prolonged period of time. There is some element of risk to doing so. The GPU causality was more of last minute throw-away, just in case you were doing something extremely unlikely such as running all your fans as intake to "maintain positive pressure" while simultaneously cranking 4k+ supersampled frames on something monstrous. I have never seen anyone get to 60C case temps from GPU heat. 50C yes, but 60C is extreme and this was always unlikely. The very easy was to know you have a flow problem at this point is the coolant temperature will not come down when you leave it alone at idle. Even if you superheat the case, the coolant temp will come down slowly as the case cools and certainly after 20-30 minutes. A normally functioning cooler should be able to drop to case ambient temperature in several minutes. You appear to be stuck and that is the hallmark sign of a flow problem. It is also the reason fan speed no longer has any effect on proceedings. The fluid is not moving. Exhaust is cool. Heat is climbing up up both tubes from the pump thought the stagnate fluid. It is probably going to take some time to get a new unit, even if you do the Advanced RMA (you have to ask for it). If you need to keep running in the interim, you need another cooler. These days I think everyone needs a back-up cooler, so if you don't have one, now is the time. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted August 27, 2017 Author Share Posted August 27, 2017 Well, I'm only leaving it at ~90 degrees for a few minutes at a time just a few times a day.. so it's probably okay Sometimes it's around 75-80 for extended periods of time... but I'd say those temps are okay *sigh* okay... yeah.. the pump appears to be working but it seems the fluid is getting stuck in the outtake tube... because it shouldn't be so hot that it almost burns my hand :/ I sent a ticket in and they are probably just going to say I need to replace it... I'm just tired of shipping stuff back.. I've already sent an AX860i due to it failing back and the H80i like 3 times.... I'm not sure if it's still under warranty or not, but regardless it'll cost like 15-20 bucks to ship it back and not to mention the pain of having to do so... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 This is getting quite annoying... I turned down the clock speed and voltage so now temps are only ~80-85 degrees tops (and that's the cpu package temp, cores are almost 10 degrees below that) at 50% load... anyway... I keep freezing... sometimes it'll unfreeze and sometimes it won't.. it's when I'm running cpu intensive things so I'm guessing I turned down the voltage too much.. the temps seem to be at least somewhat in an okay range so I'd say definitely voltage not high enough Like one time a tab on Chrome crashed... and that was it.. but then I stopped the cpu intensive application right away... another time a program I was running froze with the sound still going and then unfroze about 5 sec later and then froze again and then I minimized and a few seconds later my mouse froze and I waited a minute and it never unfroze again... and this last time the bottom part (the 'explorer' section) of the screen froze and it wouldn't let me move my mouse down there.. then I press ctrl alt del and it takes 5 seconds (should be instantaneous) and then I press "start task manager" and it said something about startup options not able to display or something like that... I could be getting it completely wrong... then I back out of that and return to my desktop and a few seconds later the cpu intensive application crashed I'd definitely say not enough voltage... temps are under 80 degrees tops so that shouldn't be the issue... I just wish I knew how to fix this clog.. it does seem to be a clog because when the pump shut off and turned back on again I opened up Corsair Link a minute or two later and it showed it being almost 65 degrees! And that was after my computer being at low load for a while.... so, yeah, I'd say top tube is much hotter than it's reporting... possibly around 80 to 90 degrees (I doubt it's any higher than that because it isn't burning my hand... although if I keep it at load for a while it can almost burn my hand when I touch the tube) Add System_Service_Exception to list of BSODs I've gotten... anyway, upped voltage and lowered clock speed 1 and temps are below 85 degrees at 50% load (and load almost never goes above 50%) so... should be good And most of the time it's under 20%... so... yeah, should be good So... now the temp won't drop below 57 degrees at idle... before it went down to 53... and room temp is about the same.. and fan speed is about the same... it's probably gotten worse or something... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 Ugh... okay, last post because I feel like I'm spamming It's definitely getting worse... my computer froze and restarted automatically and I changed some setting in the bios (hopefully that fixes it this time) and then restarted my computer and then I checked temps and by the time I did this it had been cooling down for about 2 or 3 minutes... so, anyway, it said 66 degrees and that's AFTER it had cooled down some! omg.. And it's 57 degrees at idle when it used to be 53... Cpu temps I believe are within safe ranges... but now I'm only running at 3ghz :( *sigh* I might try um... taking it out and.... idk... Btw, it says package power is 40 watts at idle... I should really enable some of the power saving features... I think I tried that and it didn't work, though So considering that... I don't think 58 degrees at idle is TOO bad I mean... it's bad... but not bad, bad Although it can easily hit 65 with load... and if the pump shuts off and the hot stuff from the top tube goes down it can reach around 70 (probably, highest I've seen is ~66 but that's after a few minutes of it cooling down at very low load) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted August 29, 2017 Author Share Posted August 29, 2017 So I shut the computer off for the night and turned it back on and temps seem to be MUCH better I still don't think it's 100% better... but definitely an improvement Could just be that it hasn't fully warmed up yet... hmm.. but the difference between liquid temp and cpu temp is pretty significantly less And top tube still feels really warm... while the bottom feels pretty cool... Hmm... I guess that's normal... fans only running at about 600 rpm currently... idk I guess we'll see... but I think I'm idling at around 50-52 degrees instead of 58 like I was before... and fans are a lot lower I think this possibly can be fixed just by doing something... like, I don't think I have to actually return it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted August 29, 2017 Share Posted August 29, 2017 Yes, but you should be idling 7-10C over the room/case ambient temp, so you are giving up quite a lot -- probably about 20C. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 So I turned my computer off again for about 5 days (cause I went on a trip) and temps seem to be back to normal I guess whatever clog there was is gone now??? idk... Temp is still about 20 degrees above ambient temp at idle but it says my processor is consuming about 40 watts at idle and fans are only running at like 600 rpm So... it got to a point where it was 58 degrees at idle... then I turn it off overnight and it was only 52 at idle... then I turn it off for 5 days and now it's not even 46 at idle... Soooooo... idk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted September 4, 2017 Share Posted September 4, 2017 Still back where we were at the beginning. These 50-60C coolant temps are out of bounds. When the pump fails, you can watch it go 45-50-55-60-65-70 and up right in front of your eyes over the course of 20 seconds. It is most likely you have some sort of partial restriction that is reducing the coolant flow. These things are somewhat variable (plus normal room temp variations) but ultimately it does not go away. I know the RMA process is a bit aggravating and I am still waiting 5 weeks for a cooler from another manufacturer, but there is no reason to go on crippling your usage to try and make a dying cooler work. Try and do the express/advanced RMA with Corsair where they ship you the new cooler first, then you return the old. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted September 4, 2017 Author Share Posted September 4, 2017 Still back where we were at the beginning. These 50-60C coolant temps are out of bounds. When the pump fails, you can watch it go 45-50-55-60-65-70 and up right in front of your eyes over the course of 20 seconds. It is most likely you have some sort of partial restriction that is reducing the coolant flow. These things are somewhat variable (plus normal room temp variations) but ultimately it does not go away. I know the RMA process is a bit aggravating and I am still waiting 5 weeks for a cooler from another manufacturer, but there is no reason to go on crippling your usage to try and make a dying cooler work. Try and do the express/advanced RMA with Corsair where they ship you the new cooler first, then you return the old. *sigh* looks like you're right... It's back up to 49 degrees at idle... it was 45-46... I guess that's better than 58... Turning it off for a few minutes and then back on again can help... I guess it moves the clog slightly.. or something... but... Hmm... I'm back up to 4ghz but I'm just barely running that while keeping it below 85 degrees at 100% load and keeping it stable... And it's only running at 100% load for a few minutes a day... so I'm sure it's fine But... Still... At least I know for sure it's a clog... I'm pretty dang positive it's not a failing pump and is due to a clog... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted September 18, 2017 Author Share Posted September 18, 2017 Rocked computer back and forth and it seems to be working fine again Below 45 degrees even at a very low fan speed (like 600 rpm) Before it was over 52 degrees.... So... may not be FULLY fixed... dunno... although, the processor is taking like 40 or 50 watts or something at idle... because no power saving features are turned on (couldn't get that to work...) soooo... dunno *shrugs* But, yeah, if it happens again I'll just shut the computer off and rock it back and forth a bit... oh yeah, and I should also disable the pump speed varying via Motherboard... still have it dropping down to about 1900 rpm when the processor is cool and jumping up to ~3100 rpm when the processor is warm... but that's happening via Motherboard... seems to be working fine but should probably just not reduce voltage... also the fan speed won't report when it's being throttled by the Motherboard... sooooo... yeah... it just says 0 rpm even though it's spinning Sorry, this was unnecessary to post... but just saying that (hopefully) I fixed it... but... probably not.. I probably just 'temporarily' made it better.. and still not optimal Maybe I should shake it some more... eh... I will if temps start increasing again No need to reply... Just saying shaking it does help and I guess every once in a while that's what I have to do to keep temps reasonable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
c-attack Posted September 18, 2017 Share Posted September 18, 2017 Unfortunately that process is likely to continue. It's a combination of luck and agitation whether it will work after shaking. It will become tiresome. At some point, you need to replace the cooler and this seems like a good time to acquire a back up. Whether you get something cheap while this unit is at RMA or something new and make the RMA cooler the backup is up to you. You may also be able to do an advance RMA where Corsair ships the new cooler and you send the old back with a temporary credit card hold. However, you have to directly ask for it and it is not always available. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bryman Posted September 20, 2017 Author Share Posted September 20, 2017 I suppose you're right... And even after shaking temps are still high... just... better... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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