Changing Tubing on H60 2013 and H110?

Hi, I know you get a lot of newcomers who ask this sort of question without realizing that it takes a ton of work, voids the warranty, etc, but I'm an experienced modder who is fully aware of the difficulties of such a task, and the apparent futility of doing so. This is entirely an aesthetic mod, not a practical one.

Again, I repeat, I am an experienced modder fully aware of the difficulties and futility of doing this. This is an aesthetic mod and I am here to ask for technical specifications, not necessarily for a How To.

Here's some pictures of what I'm working with, to show that this is a serious request. Yes, my side panel is on hinges and opens with the push of a button. For reference, I am using a Bitfenix Shinobi, a low end budget case, first pic is just a stock pic to give an idea.

http://i.imgur.com/7KjPn.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/rKN8UB9l.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/zlUGA7Al.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Fv2PRcUl.jpg?1

http://i.imgur.com/0DhYlpIl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/p5y4J9Zl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/M5G3kdul.jpg

I have an H60 2013 (aka refresh, etc, the newer one with much larger, smooth neoprene based off the Coolit Eco II, not the older one with corrugated and based off the Coolit Eco) and H110 (based off an Asetek Gen3 I believe), and I'd like to replace the tubing. Pretty straightforward, it's been done before, but I'm not sure it's been done exactly on these 2 units, usually on different closed loops that utilize different tubing (or, I am not certain that other times it's been done used the same size tubing).

The Corsair H110 is attached to my i7-4770K, while my H60 is attached to my 7950 via Dwood Bracket. I'd likely add a reservoir to the H110 loop (a small one, I'm aware of the weak pump) because if I'm tearing it up, why not, but not to the H60. My load temps on the H110 hits 80C+ with a delidded 1.5v i7-4770K, but my 7950 hits only 35C load temps, and that's with an extreme overvoltage and modded BIOS, so no reason to add a res.

I need help figuring out:

• Tubing Needed. The H110 seems to use thinner, 'normal' neoprene, I saw a review say the rad and stuff uses 1/4 barbs but I've looked up tubing dimensions before and they were wrong, ie it's definitely not 3/8 OD on the h110 or 1/2OD on the h60!
   
   
  I originally was going to wrap the tubing in colored tubing, but I've decided it looks worse to do that. When getting tubing to match to do this, I found that the H110's OD was not 3/8, but actually 7/16. As in I bought 3/8 x 1/2, and it didnt cover over the tubes, but 7/16 x 9/16 did (an odd size that primochill, etc does not sell)
   
  The h60, again, I thought it was 1/2"OD but 1/2"ID tubing doesnt wrap around it, only 9/16 x 3/4 fits over it fully.
   
  I'd like to use a dark solid blue, to match my Z87x-ud3h and all the electric blue paracord sleeving in my build. I'm open to dying the liquid (espeicially for the h110 loop with the resevoir) but I think I'm leaning towards a solid dark blue tubing. I can use blue leds for the reservoir anyways.
   
  I dont know what tubing I'd get, but the h60 tubing needs to be extremely flexible and non-kink since its on very tight since it's on my GPU. It already has kinks, which is okay because at full load, with an extreme overvolt, my load temps are 33C, but I mean I dont want some tubing that pinch tight when better tubing would just be a small kink. The h110 tubing isnt stressed so not as important for anti-kink.
   
  I think anti-kink coils are ugly so no on that.
   
  
• Picking a decent, cheap reservoir. Something small and simple, really. I cant mount in the bays, I would simply attach it to the ground or right edge of the mobo tray. Small is fine. I mean I'll just take whatever recommendations here, not really a huge deal.
   
  
• Liquid. I have no idea what coolant or liquid to use, or antimicrobial, if I need to drain out out the existing liquid or not, if I can just add distilled water to the existing liquid, etc.
   
  
• Clamps. Cable ties are ugly, so need something here. I actually really like the stock clamps, but I'm pretty sure you gotta break them to get to the tubing. I would be open to just gluing them back together and even gluing them to the tubing though, as I can hide the cut/broken side away from view. So i dunno what my options are here, or is that not a clamp and I dont even need clamps.
  

Thanks. Again I know the difficulty and how useless these mods are but its for aesthetics. As for 'why not get real water', thats way too expensive and the central theme of my build is keeping the cost low, heavy modification, DIY, and doing something different. As for 'why not just cover/sleeve the tubes', because it looks awful and there is an expectation of excellence here. I intend to win Overclock.net's Mod of the Month, I am not looking for shortcuts, I am looking for the best possible way to do this.

Believe me, when I realized I just had to bite the bullet and replace the tubing instead of trying to wrap the cables (an endeavor I've already spent ~$40 doing), I just like ughh not looking forward to that, but there's a right way and a lazy way to do things. I don't want something that only looks good in internet pictures and then looks 'okay' in real life. I've seen sleeved, covered, etc on tubing, and I'm sorry, it just doesn't look as good as the real deal. Some are close, but I don't think doubling the width of the tubing is as good as just replacing the tubing.

A loop for all this would be what, at minimum, gpu block 30 (using a cheap cpu block modified), 280mm rad 60, pump 20(would probably use a pump + X combo but im sure thats +$20 to w/e), cpu block 40, reservoir 30, fittings and acc at 20+ = $200+... and thatd really require as much modding as Im proposing and take as much work, digging for deals, etc, vs a $29 h60, $100 h110, and say $50 in the reservoir and accessories for this mod.

It's not necessarily about penny pinching here but again, doing things a certain low cost, DIY manner for my build.

I REPEAT I AM AWARE THIS IS NOT RECOMMENDABLE AT ALL, I AM JUST ASKING FOR TECHNICAL DETAILS. I AM AN EXPERIENCED MODDER WITH A TRACK RECORD WHO IS WELL AWARE OF THE RISKS AND WORK INVOLVED

Screw the warranty :)

Can't wait to see the journey and the end results!

Tubing Needed. The H110 seems to use thinner, 'normal' neoprene, I saw a review say the rad and stuff uses 1/4 barbs but I've looked up tubing dimensions before and they were wrong, ie it's definitely not 3/8 OD on the h110 or 1/2OD on the h60!

Someone else modded one to fit a GPU. I think it was 10mm that he used. But you might even check a pet store and use the tubing in fish section. You might even just take the cooling block or pump to LOWES or Home Depot . They have a large selection of hose and you can test fit it there to be sure.

Coolant. ...distilled water works good.Thats what I use and actually i put a few drop of my swimming pool algicide in it . I know it's a little unorthodox as far as fungus control ...but it works.Your best bet is to just drain what left when you remove the hoses and refil with fresh fluid.

EDIT...I believe the tubing is crimped on to the connectors. So you really dont have much choice but to use a standard hose clamp to keep the new hoses put.

Good luck and please post the finished product when your done.

What pet store, like a petsmart? And can you link this guy who changed the h110 tubing, I cant find it. putting an h110 on a gpu, that seems a little excessive though.. with a single fan on low speed, an extreme overvolt and +50 power limiit my 7950 never goes above 40c... I cant imagine even like a double gpu like a 7990 or titan getting so hot as to warrant an h110 :O

Swimming pool algicide.. I'm all for penny pinching but mmm... I'm not really knowledgeable enough, methinks, to be using pool algicide. Could you maybe break it down a little bit what I need? What about like a silver coil or something?

Is it possible to buy the clamps, or similar ones? I just like their look.

I contacted Asetek and CoolIt as well, Asetek resonded and said it was 'about' 5mm x 10.5mm. That can't be right... the tubing is thicker than the hole? That is roughly 3/16 (5mm=.196in, 3/16 = .185, 4/16 = .25), a weird size. Would a different size tubing be okay if its close? I'm going to ask them again because 5x10.5 cant be right.

Does anyone know if like the h60 2013 or h110 tubing is similar to any other CLCs? For ezample, theres not much non people modding the h60 2013 or h110, but like the 620 is commonly modded, and if i knew the asetek kuhler 620 used the same tubing as the asetek h110, i could use the same tubing used when modding the 620. Im not sure if any other clcs use the same thick tubing as the h60 2013 though, maybe the h100i and h80i?

What pet store, like a petsmart? And can you link this guy who changed the h110 tubing, I cant find it. putting an h110 on a gpu, that seems a little excessive though.. with a single fan on low speed, an extreme overvolt and +50 power limiit my 7950 never goes above 40c... I cant imagine even like a double gpu like a 7990 or titan getting so hot as to warrant an h110 :O

It wasn't the H110 but a similar cooler. It's the same thing just a differnt size radiator, but tubing is the same. But yes, a pet smart or something like that. Although the home improvement stores will probably have a little better selection and of different wall thicknesses. I mearly suggested that as a place to look since the hose is an odd ball size.

Swimming pool algicide.. I'm all for penny pinching but mmm... I'm not really knowledgeable enough, methinks, to be using pool algicide. Could you maybe break it down a little bit what I need? What about like a silver coil or something?

I actually tried this on whim once. i was out of my regular biocide drops and all i had was pool algaecide. So i thought what the hell. A added about 1 tsp to the entire loop and have had far less problems with my loop. I also use a little silver bullet that fits in a empty port on my reservoir for good measure and nothing but plain old distilled water.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21502/ex-tub-2080/Monsoon_999_Fine_Silver_Bullet_Antimicrobial_G_14_Plug_-_Chrome_MON-PLUG-AG-CH.html?tl=g30c103s1676

Everyone is going to have their own tried and true method and have their favorite fluids and such. Synthohol here in the forums talked me into distilled water and it has been far easier to maintain.

Is it possible to buy the clamps, or similar ones? I just like their look.

I don't believe so. Ramguy explained them once a long time ago and from what i understand is that the crimp slamps are actually part of the hose some how. The rings you see on the outside of your hoses now are not actual clamps. They are just a cosmetic ring to hide the hose ends.

I contacted Asetek and CoolIt as well, Asetek resonded and said it was 'about' 5mm x 10.5mm. That can't be right... the tubing is thicker than the hole? That is roughly 3/16 (5mm=.196in, 3/16 = .185, 4/16 = .25), a weird size. Would a different size tubing be okay if its close? I'm going to ask them again because 5x10.5 cant be right.

Actually , in this case i would be more concerned with just the inside diameter. Wall thickness really isn't important because there is no real pressure to deal with. Just circulating liquid. So just about anything that will fit fit the barb would work.

It wasn't the H110 but a similar cooler. It's the same thing just a differnt size radiator, but tubing is the same. But yes, a pet smart or something like that. Although the home improvement stores will probably have a little better selection and of different wall thicknesses. I mearly suggested that as a place to look since the hose is an odd ball size.

Like what? A lot of these units use different size tubing.

Lowes didn't really have a great selection and no oddball sizes. Haven't checked petsmart yet.

I actually tried this on whim once. i was out of my regular biocide drops and all i had was pool algaecide. So i thought what the hell. A added about 1 tsp to the entire loop and have had far less problems with my loop. I also use a little silver bullet that fits in a empty port on my reservoir for good measure and nothing but plain old distilled water.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21...l=g30c103s1676

Everyone is going to have their own tried and true method and have their favorite fluids and such. Synthohol here in the forums talked me into distilled water and it has been far easier to maintain.

I'm not sure if I'll have an empty port though. I guess it depends what reservoir I get?

Is it possible to get some sort of 90* adaptor on my H60 2013 radiator? It would really make the tubing a lot more convenient if it fit onto it 90*. Since my H60 rad is on my rear exhaust, and the block is on the GPU. It'd be a lot less tube bending. Not a huge deal, even if the tubing is pinched my cooling will still be more than adequate, but just asking...

Do you use only distilled water? I'm a bit confused on that. Just buy that at cvs or something?

I don't believe so. Ramguy explained them once a long time ago and from what i understand is that the crimp slamps are actually part of the hose some how. The rings you see on the outside of your hoses now are not actual clamps. They are just a cosmetic ring to hide the hose ends.

Well can I buy those cosmetic rings?

Actually , in this case i would be more concerned with just the inside diameter. Wall thickness really isn't important because there is no real pressure to deal with. Just circulating liquid. So just about anything that will fit fit the barb would work.

hm... ugh i can't be guessing what would work. 1/4 and 1/2? Is it okay to be off by 1/16?

Check this out:

http://www.pcper.com/reviews/Cases-and-Cooling/Corsair-Hydro-Series-H80i-High-Performance-Liquid-CPU-Cooler-Deconstruct-0

Notice the green tinge in the coolant's coloration. This is caused by the propylene glycol added to the water mixture for corrosion prevention and biological control. A propylene glycol mix is commonly used in automotive radiators for the same reason with the ratio used in an automotive-based cooler being much higher than that traditionally used in a computer water cooler. Using additives in a computer water cooler tends to lessen the coolers effectiveness, but is necessary in this system because of the copper and aluminum metal used in the cooler's components.

These coolers seem to use a copper plate, and aluminum heatsink.

Based on what I've read, it seems I should use a 33-50% Glycol to Distilled water mix. Can i just use some cvs or grocery store distilled water that they sell?

I'd also prefer a blue OR clear liquid... if i cant get glycol in clear, i'll go blue.

Where do you see that?

What antifreeze? Propylene or glycol?

EVERY TIME YOU COMBINE MORE THAN 1 SET OF RAM, A KITTEN, 2 PUPPIES AND A BABY PANDA DIES.

I do this all the time, as long as the IC is the same it shouldn't matter. There's only a handful, less than you can count on one hand, of RAM ICs, so it's not hundreds of different RAM ICs, but rather ~4-5 different RAM that is simply rebranded a million times over. Of course there's a couple sub-types, but if you mix PSC + PSC, Hynix BFR + BFR, Samsung D-Rev + D-Rev, etc etc you should be fine. And I wouldn't even sweat mixing spekteks and qimondas since they are such cheapo ram, or even d9s. I mean corsair, G.Skillll, etc ad nauseum, will sell the same RAM IC as a $50 budget kit and a $100 premium kit, or as 1600CL9, 1866CL10, or 1600CL9 1.5v, 1866CL9 1.65v, etc.

The first link in your profile can't be viewed, the 2nd one is just official supported specifications that don't really mean anything, as the RAM voltage has long since been separated from the CPU IMC since what, 1366? Not even sure any DDR3 platforms tie the voltages. I know that intel, for example, says official supported max voltage is 1.5v +/-5%, but you can run up to 1.75v+ just fine. It's like saying the max supported cpu clock is 3.4ghz for an i5, but obviously that's just the official specification, not a declaration that anything more is dangerous.

a bit off topic lol.

if you mix PSC + PSC, Hynix BFR + BFR, Samsung D-Rev + D-Rev, etc etc you should be fine.

:): i never said it definitely won't work, only that it is not suggested, recommended or supported. in MANY cases here the combination of unmatched sticks was the only culprit guilty of causing BSOD, crashing, locking up, failure to boot etc...

it's true about the puppies though ;):

Is it possible to get some sort of 90* adaptor on my H60 2013 radiator?

No, the barbs are part of the radiator itself.

Do you use only distilled water? I'm a bit confused on that. Just buy that at cvs or something?

Yes, plain old distilled water. You can add anti-freeze propylene glycol to the water if you wish. Some people do, I don't

I do this all the time, as long as the IC is the same it shouldn't matter.

I'm sorry, but this not true. We see it here all the time and the forum is filled with hundreds users who have run into that issue. Corsair does not suggest or support using multiple kits for that very reason.

Quote:

Actually , in this case i would be more concerned with just the inside diameter. Wall thickness really isn't important because there is no real pressure to deal with. Just circulating liquid. So just about anything that will fit fit the barb would work.

hm... ugh i can't be guessing what would work. 1/4 and 1/2? Is it okay to be off by 1/16?

Yes, positive. There is no pressure to speak of. These pumps run at barely a trickle.

You know, reading that h80i teardown article more, and it appears corsair uses some super thick, triple layer neoprene/mesh/neoprene tubing, so it may that its a conventional 1/4 + 3/8 respecitively, and just the OD is what's unconventional.

So tubing, res figured out, now I really need to know if okay to use ethylene glycol or some other blue/clear anti-corrossive. Propylene is only green so ew, and clamps. The guy in the h80i article got them off without breaking them, it doesnt appear there is any crimping or anything special going on.



I'm sorry, but this not true. We see it here all the time and the forum is filled with hundreds users who have run into that issue. Corsair does not suggest or support using multiple kits for that very reason.

I'm sorry, but you are wrong. Like I said, as long as the IC used is the same there is no problem. This forum is filled with people mixing ICs. Which even then is actually okay, as long as you set the timings differently for each channel & kit, ie PSC is going to need very high TRCD while some CFR needs high RDDR, etc. Which raises another issue, people are likely mixing RAM ICs with different sub-timings that one IC can do while another struggles with, so overclocks like XMP might be unstable when mixing RAM ICs.

There's also some kits of RAM that are binned, ie 2666+, so youll have to reduce timings to match a low and high bin.

As for what Corsair suggests, thats not really evidence of anything. overclocking is not suggested either, but saying 'you cannot set an i5 above 3.4ghz' is obviously untrue.

The heart of RAM is the IC used. Corsair does not make RAM, hynix, samsung, PSC, etc do. If you have 2 kits of Samsung d-rev, they will work fine, even if one is some 1600CL8 and the other is 2400VL10. Andr sometimes even the same exact kit is not always sold with the same IC, yet may be 'officially supported' as mixable. You can really mix any RAM, you just have to be aware different ICs (and differen luck/binning) means different responses to various timings and voltages.

whatever though, its clear the mixing ram precautions are for beginners who might not be aware what RAM ICs are. Im just not sure a puppy dies everytime lol.

peanut, you say you use only distilled water... with what exactly? Your own h60 and h110 that you replaced the tubing?

Theres copper + aluminium in these CLCs, so I need an anti corrossive.

peanut, you say you use only distilled water... with what exactly? Your own h60 and h110 that you replaced the tubing?

 

Theres copper + aluminium in these CLCs, so I need an anti corrossive.

peanuts runs a custom loop Belial88

So... does he run a copper+alum mixed metal loop with only distilled?

I read of someone doing the mod to an h100i, he says he used 3/8 tubing and it had 'more slack than his koolance 3/8'. So... maybe I get 5/16?

http://www.overclock.net/t/1323904/cl-corsair-announces-new-hydro-series-h100i-and-h80i-flagship-liquid-cpu-coolers/700_100#post_18969423

peanut, you say you use only distilled water... with what exactly? Your own h60 and h110 that you replaced the tubing?

Yes, it's a custom loop, and it is mixed metals. If your wanting a blue fluid then you want a proper water cooling fluid and not antifreeze.

I use something like this added to my water to control corrosion.

I've used the dyes before to color your fluid,and had mixed results with different manufactures. Some of them actually separated out of the water after time leaving a thick ink like residue in a lot of my loop. I had to dis assemble every block, replace every tube, and flush both pump and radiator. That was another reason i went to straight distilled water. No mess.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21400/ex-liq-95/Feser_Base_Corrosion_Blocker_-_50mL_-_FB-0055.html?tl=g30c103s186

Corsair uses the antifreeze because these coolers are shipped all over the world in all sorts of weather conditions. So they need to protect against freezing units. It is a good corrosion inhibitor , but there are so many other products that can be used in place of glycol.

A standard commercially available fluid may be the way you want to go. Pour it in and forget about it.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l2/g30/c337/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Coolant_-_Brand.html?id=2U89NeUM

I'm a little confused... you run only distilled water in a alu + cu loop? Isnt that like... crazy? Or are those people saying do not mix just as uninformed as, saying, dont mix ram :P

You link feser (ethylene glycol) but im not sure what you are trying to say with that (after just saying only distilled). If your saying 'there other things other than glycol, like this feser stuff' its confusing because the feser is ethylene glycol. As I understand, its not the glycol that inhibits corrossion though, its just a carrier for anti-corrosives (ie they arent soluble in water). Limited understanding, that is.

I know corsair uses propylene glycol, my hangup with propylene is the green. Im using blue tubing, which i guess may be okay with it since itll be dark blue, but the res im aiming for at the moment, the swifty micro, is clear.

And yea im still confused on how to get those clamps off without breaking them.

the guy you belittled about his ram knowledge just happens to know what he is talking about.

ram isnt like it used to be as the whole architecture has changed.

of course running low end components and no oc'ing,then yes it most likely would work since it would be barely ticking

wait I really xant use 90* fittings?

I need to put 90* fittings or angle on the reservoir (for h110) and on the rad for the h60 mounted in the back. I cant put like tube/fitting/tube?

yeah i still scratch my head on the ram puppy quote:D:

btw,browze frozencpu.com,they have most every fitting you may need...

I got a question... would adding a pump help performance?

The reason I ask is because there's a lot of pump+res combos. Is there such a thing as too much pump?

Dude said I can't put 90* fittings on the h60 rad because the barbs are part of the rad. So...i guess i cant do it or something, im not really sure.

Probably. With HVAC cooling installations, if you move air past the air conditioner's evaporator too fast the system will not be able to cool the air properly. The medium, in this case air, needs to be in contact with the cooler long enough to give up its heat properly. I think the same thing would apply to liquid coolers as well. Plus, any added flow would increase pressure and lead to possibly more leaks.

I wouldn't mess with the pump as I am sure Corsair has sized it properly for the job it's supposed to do.

If your going to add pumps, res, and everything else you might as well build a proper loop.

I'm a little confused... you run only distilled water in a alu + cu loop? Isnt that like... crazy?

Research lops some more. It's very common, a lot of people use distilled water. That why i use the corrosion additive a little algicide. my loop stays crystal clear.

Im not adding pumps, res, etc. I'm simply asking if I'm getting a res, why not get a pump/res. They are basically the same price, and it gives me more options to choose from. I'm not really adding anything, just the tubing. I'm only adding a res because of how simple, cheap it is and might as well.

I mean, why don't I just NOT get a res, and instead get a pump? I mean I'm sure there's an answer here, but I don't know it. Please, I'm well aware of the futility of this mod, this is purely for aesthetics, and a res is quite cool looking.

The Corsair pumps, are super weak, as I understand, so I can't imagine adding a pump would be too much.

Research lops some more. It's very common, a lot of people use distilled water. That why i use the corrosion additive a little algicide. my loop stays crystal clear.

I... I have. I've never heard anyone mixing metals with no anticorrossive or anything, and I'm not sure its 'very common' to not use anything. I could be wrong, for sure. But I really dont understand what you are saying. Research about only distilled water in a mixed metal loop, thats why you use corrossion additive algicide? Like what?

What anti corrosive are you using thats clear?