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Queeg

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Posts posted by Queeg

  1. 6 hours ago, c-attack said:

    Not clear what the origin of this problem might be, but when I took another pass at it today on 4.29 I also noticed most of my profiles prevent the presets from showing in CUE.  It's as if they are partially loaded.  Only newly created profiles have the proper tools to create HW Lighting.  My guess is somewhere along the line there was a fundamental profile change and the old ones are not going to be compatible anymore.  Don't ESC reset your KB or you will lose what you have.  It is not effective for this and it is a software side problem. 

    I'm on the latest iCue version  (4.29.203) and I literally deleted all the stock keyboard presets because I never use any of them.  Only preset I have is the one I created myself.

    One other thing:  I also have a Corsair One, and when I have a "Scene" selected for it, that setting seems to override the keyboard setting.  So if I select the default Corsair One Scene for my Corsair One, I end up with only solid blue keys on the K100, and I couldn't find a way to change them and make it stick.  So I deselected the Scene and set the lighting for my Corsair One manually.  And it now works independent of the keyboard setting.

    Nothing about the iCue interface - literally noting - makes any sense.  One can't help but wonder if anyone at Corsair has actually ever used it. 

  2. I had the same problem with my new K100 air.  iCue is about as user-friendly as a Byzantine jigsaw puzzle, but I think this is what made it work for me.

    As best I can tell, Hardware Lighting is what the keyboard will run if iCue is not open.  That's why the effects disappear when iCue is running.

    To get the effects to appear while iCue is running, you need to take the effects you saved in Hardware Lighting and repeat them in Lighting Effects.  Those effects will then work when iCue is running.

    Anyway, that's what I did and it all works fine now, whether iCue is running or not.  Took me about three hours of trial and error to figure it out, so there may be a simpler method.  But that's what worked for me eventually. 

  3. In terms of pure specs, the top of the line Corsair offering is  the Vengeance i7300, i9-12900K, RTX 3090, 2TB M.2, 32GB DDR5-4800.  The best Corsair One model is the i300, but it tops out at an RTX 3080 Ti.

    The biggest difference between the Vengeance and the Corsair One is the form factor - the Vengeance is a conventional mid-tower while the Corsair One is a unique small form factor design.  The smaller form factor of the Corsair One means it takes up far less desk space, but it is designed with a unique convection  cooling system that does a good job of keeping the PC both cool and quiet given its small size.  While the Corsair One does a great job of doing what it is designed to do - very small and quiet yet still reasonably cool  - it definitely runs hotter than PCs with more conventional (i.e., larger) cases with more fans.

    Another important difference between the two models is that the Vengeance is generally far easier to upgrade because it uses a conventional mid-tower case.  The Corsair One case is tightly-packed, and it's tough to upgrade much beyond the RAM and SSD drives.  An experienced DIY builder could upgrade the rest (CPU, Motherboard and GPU) - and some here have done exactly that - but it's far more difficult than in a conventional case. 

    I've owned two Corsair Ones - an i160 and an i300 - and both have been outstanding.  As long as Corsair makes a Corsair One (or something similar) that keeps up with the latest CPUs and GPUs, I'll keep buying them.  For me, small and quiet, and still reasonably cool, is far preferable to cooler, but bigger and noisier.  And I've lost interest in building my own PCs, so I want a pre-built that best fits those parameters.  And, for me, that's the Corsair One.  It's just a matter of preference.

    There are folks here who report that the M.2 drive in their Corsair One failed, apparently due to heat.  Those folks tend to be vocal here - that's what this forum is for - and it's hard to tell how representative their experience really is.  I can say that neither my i160 (which I used for more than two years) or my i300 (which I've used for four months) has shown any problems.  They are best PCs I've ever owned, bar none. 

  4. 4 hours ago, FrustratedCSOne said:

    Getting the same BSOD on a Corsair One I purchased on January 2021. BSOD is occurring more and more frequent at various times. 

    - CMO reset didn't work

    - Reinstalled Windows didn't work. Made it worse actually.

    - Submitted support.info zip file and fail log screen to Corsair, waiting on response. 

    - $3k+ USD computer is UNUSABLE.

    You might try removing and reinserting the memory sticks.  There was a post here recently about that fixing BS problems.  Worth a try. 

  5. 17 hours ago, Mourer1989 said:

    Oh wow. See that’s an even different scenario than what I’m experiencing. My fan is not even staying at a set speed. The only one that seems to operate any different is the ‘extreme’ mode and even after about 30 minutes to an hour I will hear the disconnect and then reconnect sounds. I have a whole bunch more of data I’m working with to try to really figure out what exactly is doing it. Cause it can’t be a windows thing if its happening in the BIOS, but yet can’t be the BIOS if it was operating for months this way with no issue. I have the latest BIOS, Windows and Driver updates and I now feel like even doing a windows reinstall wont do a thing as it didn’t kick the fan on even in the bios. 

    After digging a bit more I disconnected the fan from the AIO system and plugged it into the PUMP FAN1 Header at the top next to the Sensor Pin on the CPU FAN Header. I installed FanControl and it seems to be holding my fan curve set by me just fine. I just wonder if like some other users I should just uninstall iCUE. The RGB factor doesn’t bother me. Just want this darn thing to continue working like it should.

     

    On a side note for this problem. I noticed a fan setting in the BIOS that when you control the fan by DC and bring it below I believe 4.8 volts or maybe just 4v there’s a notice that says operating the fan like this can cause problems. The top fan is a 12vDC fan I believe that operates on regular DC voltage. How would that apply here? I feel like either something’s wrong with that or maybe the fan is not able to run at lower voltages for prolonged times as it harms the motor? Wasn’t sure on that and would appreciate some technical input on the DC Voltage fan control and what could be a problem there.

    Only other noticed issue is that the second the fan is set at 24 percent or below the fan instantly goes to 0. Previously the fan would operate in those lower ranges as I even had the fans hovering in the 300-700rpm ranges on normal use (non gaming/heavy load) all the time so I thought the fan would operate just fine given any voltage in the 12vDC range. Like 6V would make the fan run at 50percent speed vice versa and so on.

     

    I'm impressed with your research on this.  I suspect you may know more about it than Corsair does at this point.

    I've been lucky that both my C1s have performed well.  But I do agree that Corsair needs to step up on this problem.  It's clearly not an isolated one.  

    I still think the Corsair One is the best pre-built on the PC market - closest to a Mac in terms of engineering and build quality.  Corsair should be proud to have designed it.  But they need to follow through now with support.  The legacy of the Corsair One will be whatever Corsair chooses for it to be. 

  6. 19 hours ago, MARIUSPVP said:

    Hello,

    Having here Corsair i200, it has been working properly for a few weeks, however after a vacation i turned it on and when playing some games i noticed that the monitor got " Your device is going in standby mode, no signal" and the corsair blinking red from overheating, i checked and i do have same issue as you guys, when the temperature goes above 60 Celsius, the fans just turns on for  a few seconds and then suddenly goes off, usually the issue with the monitor its at 60> , if i keep the fans at extreme temperature it does solve the thing. However, when trying to update the liquid cooler firmware on icue, it gives me " Update error" .

     

    Has anyone found a solution for the ICUE and default profile fan? I do not understand paying 3900 pounds for a pc and waiting so much time for the Corsair to fix a bug in their software..

    What happens if you set a Custom fan curve - like 50%?  Sounds like you don't have the problem if the fan is set to Extreme (full-time,  full-speed).  What if you set a Custom curve (full-time, less-than-full-speed)? 

  7. 1 hour ago, Mourer1989 said:

    Also after using some other tools for searching USBDeview was able to show me a USB HID device labeled “Mystic Light” and is the device that keeps disconnecting and reconnecting. I understand because of this being a MSI board using their RGB SDK would require this to be enabled. Only other notice I am able to find is in event viewer telling me the corsair service has stopped and been restarted.

    My understanding is that Mystic Light is an MSI app used for controlling RGB lighting.    https://www.msi.com/Landing/mystic-light-rgb-gaming-pc/  So it does, in part, what iCue also does.

    While the i300 uses an MSI mother board, I don't think it uses Mystic Light.  I have an i300 that I bought in May, and I don't see Mystic Light anywhere on my machine (checked my drives and processes).  Is it possible you installed it by accident somewhere along the line? 

    I wonder if Mystic Light is somehow conflicting with iCue?  Perhaps confusing your connection with iCue and, in turn, your Corsair devices?  You might try finding Mystic Light and disabling or uninstalling it. 

  8. Different issue, but I personally don't think the modest increase in performance with the 3080ti is worth the hefty price difference.  Depends somewhat on the resolution you will game at, but the performance difference between the 3080 and 3080ti is about 8-10%.  The price difference is $700-$950 depending on where you buy (Corsair direct vs. Amazon).  It's a matter of personal preference, of course, but I was happy to go with the 3080.

    As I posted in another thread, my initial plan was to buy one of new the 1440p QD-OLED monitors, but I finally broke down and bought a 42-inch OLED 4K TV for use as a monitor and couldn't be happier.  The 3080 gives me plenty of FPS even at 4K.  And the cost savings over the 3080ti paid for most of the cost of the TV. 

  9. I do have the 3080 and can't speak directly to the 3080ti.  But I think the CPU is the real heat issue - the 12900k puts out a lot of heat.  All the reviews out there are of the 3080ti version, and they all focus on the CPU as being the area of concern.

    I'll let the others weigh in, but my advice would be to buy what you want and not worry about it. 

     

  10. I monitor the the SSD temps and they're fine.  Top out in the mid-50s and then for only short periods. 

    Probably also depends on your use case.  I do some office-type work (emails, Word, etc.) and gaming, and only the latter stresses anything.  As a full-time video editing machine, the heat and stress would be much higher.  And I would hesitate if that were my use case.

    But for the average user, the i300 is fine.  There's literally nothing else on the market like it for the combination of size, performance, silence and not looking like a kid's PC.  Closest thing to a Mac in the PC space.  There are trade-offs, but well worth it if the form factor is important to you. 

  11. Folks have different preferences, I guess.  I set my fan at 40%, where it runs at ~950 rpm and is essentially silent.  It ramps up as needed, and I've never had a problem with overheating.  Or even come close to having a problem.  

    Frankly, I'd be fine running at the Default (0 rpm) setting.  The fan curve works fine.  I just set a higher minimum because I can get more even cooling and still have a mostly silent system.       

    • Like 1
  12. 3 hours ago, itsonlym3 said:

    I have an a200 Compact Workstation-Class arriving Friday. Have the issues been resolved yet? Already full of regret after reading through the forums. This was my first time buying a pre-built, i've always built mine in the past. 😞

    Is Corsair actively working on this at all or can I expect to request an RMA the first day of unboxing?

    Any pre-help or guidance would be greatly appreciated!!

    The posts here often conflate several different issues.

    I've owned two Corsair Ones, an i160 that I had for three years and a new i300 that I've owned for about three weeks.  From my experience, the fan controls in iCue are supposed to work as follows:  The Default setting starts the fan at 0 rpm and then ramps up as either coolant temperature requires (the fan usually starts when either coolant temp hits 40c or so and then ramps up from there as needed, hitting full rpm if either coolant temp hits 50c or so).  The Extreme setting is the opposite - the fan runs full blast all the time.  The Custom setting - which appears to be where the controversy lies - is a middle ground.  Instead of an initial setting of 0 or 100%, you can select a fixed percentage anywhere in between.  The fan will then run at that fixed percentage as a minimum, and will still ramp up as needed (just like the Default profile does).  The Custom setting is not a true fan "curve," however, it's just a fixed minimum setting where the built-in fan curve takes over as needed.    

    The original poster back in September of last year seems to be saying that they set a Custom setting but that the fan does not ramp up as needed above that setting.  If that's what happened, then that's an example of iCue not working properly.  But that's not something I've ever seen with either of my machines.  I recall once that a Custom curve failed to load after an iCue update, but simply stopping/restarting iCue fixed it.  iCue has worked reliably on both my machines.

    Some posts seem to complain that the Custom setting allows only a fixed percentage, not a true user-defined curve.  But it's often unclear exactly what the complaint is.  If they are saying that the built-in curve doesn't work or isn't sufficient to control temperatures, then that again would be an example of the software not being adequate.  But, again, that's not been my experience.

    I think at least some of the complaint is just that some folks want to be able to set a user-defined curve like they typically do with their DIY machines.  That's more a matter of personal preference than a true problem with the software.  

    I can tell you that my own experience has been nothing but positive.  I've used both the Default and a Custom (45%) setting and it all just works.  

    • Like 1
  13. 43 minutes ago, ToWn3r said:

    Unfortunately that’s not the case.

    As mentioned many times in another thread. This one by @zguy85 covers it pretty well.

     

    I've seen that thread, but it's still unclear to me what the actual complaint is.  Are you (or he) saying you are trying each new iCue release and they just don't work at all?  Or are you saying they don't work as you would like them to?

    I see posts here saying people can't set Custom fan curves using iCue on the Corsair One.  But it's often not clear whether they are saying they set a Custom fan setting and it simply doesn't work (for example, it just doesn't activate or the fan doesn't ramp up as needed).  Or whether they are complaining that they can't set a true curve, but only a fixed percentage.  Those are two very different complaints.

    I agree the iCue software should work as intended.  But I don't think it's fair to say the software is "broken" just because it doesn't offer a specific functionality some folks would like to see.  Those are two different issues, and the posts here often don't distinguish the two. 

    • Like 1
  14. 13 hours ago, Casubon said:

    Hi. I have an i300 i9-12900k with 64gb ram and an Nvidia 3080Ti installed. I have a spare Crucial MX500 2 TB SSD which used to be installed in a PS4 which is no longer being used and I thought that this would be nice to have as an internal drive.

    However, when the SSD is installed internally in the empty SSD bay (using power connector in the i300 and a short sata lead to the motherboard sata connector)in the i300, the i300 does not power on at all . There was a slight click from the PSU, but that was it. On removal of the SSD, everything is fine and the system powers on, boots and runs as normal.  

    Any ideas? Is it a power draw issue or compatibility? What make/model/capacity of SSDs have people successfully installed and used?

    I moved a Samsung SSD 860 EVO 4TB from my i160 to my i300.  Used the power cable already there and the SATA cable from my i160.  No boot problems.  I did have to tweak some things in Disk Management to get the drive to show up.  But all good otherwise,

    The SATA connectors on the motherboard are very close to the memory sticks.  Any chance the SATA cable unseated one of the memory sticks?  Or maybe try a different SATA connector.  There are four, I think.  Or a new cable?

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