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changing hose size?


hazzman

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i looked threw the threads and didnt see anything on it, so here is my question? would anyone recommend changing the hose size from the the back of the HC200 EX to the block, if im right the hose that comes with the system is 3/8....would i be able to go with a 1/2 Hose?, and would that give me better water flow?....and would it strain the pump at all? or viod any warranty? this is my first water cooling rig....i have heard nothing but good things about the HC200 EX system and im pretty pleased with it so far, but the water block seems to be on the small side....does corsair/delphi make a bigger block for this set up?.. or could someone recommend a better block? im running a 3000+xp ocd to a 3200+, temp 44c, 111f, just trying to drop my temps a little. any advise is much appreciated :confused: :confused: :confused:
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The hose size on the HC is, 3/8 inch ID on the inside of the system it's self and 1/4 inch ID from the HC to the water block. It wouldn't be all that hard to change out the tubing, but I wouldn't go any bigger than 3/8 inch ID due to the system being a low flow system. There are lots of blocks out there that would work with the HC, but I don't think you're going to improve your temps much by just changing out the blocks and hose from the HC to the blocks. You might get a degree or 2, that about it.
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thanks biohazard, like the name btw :biggrin: are the temps i stated above on the high end? or is that about normal for what im overclocked to? maybe if i gave a lil more info on my system would give u more of an idea mobo asus a7nbx-e delux 3000xp barton core, 400fsb, ocd to 3200 2 sticks of 512 3200ddr 400mhz gforce4 ti 4600 500w ps maybe the 3000xp barton just runs hot.... cause i had a 2600 ocd to a 3200 with the Same HC200 EX and my temps were much lower, about 90 degrees fahrenheit not sure what that is in Celsius. :eek: but thanks anyways for the tips.
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Your temps are a bit higher than mine......I've got a 2500 Barton running at 11x200 @ 1.70 volts and a 9800Pro Oc'd to 412/365 24/7 and at a room temp of 24-25c my max load has been running 40c. My case temps stay within 1c of room temp as I'm still running 6 case fans. If you are running that much higher than before I would reseat the water blosk and put a new coating of Arctic silver or your TIM of choise. All Bartons should run pretty much within the same temp range a they are the exact same core.
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hazzman, Yes, you can go to 3/8" ID tubing (1/2" OD) external from the HC box to the processor in the computer. In another thread some time back, it was even mentioned what Colder-Couplers to purchase from U.S. Plastics to do this modd'ing along with the clamps and the "same" tubing used in the HC. [url]http://www.houseofhelp.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23018&highlight=Plastics[/url] When ordering the quick-disconnect couplers' make sure they have the shut-offs and not a pass-through only. This will prevent any leaky disconnects. And order within the same "series" of these quick-disconnects. You would need another low-flow micro-channel cold-block that receives this size tubing, ie. Danger Den's RBX cold-block. Also, if you will need a few inches of black electrical tape to wrap the tubing in the area to pass through the PCI-bracket. The grommets will need to be removed since they are too small. As for voiding the warranty, you wouldn't be doing that if you maintain the Colder-Coupler's in the new size that mate up to the ones listed in the previous thread, use the same SuperThane tubing, but in 3/8" ID (1/2" OD) and a low flow micro-channel cold-block. The HC box and the other parts wouldn't be affected since the coolant mixture would still be 1/3 Propylene glycol and 2/3 distilled water. Your temps should improve. MorrisGS even has another mod to help bring the temps down more with a 1-gallon valssic pickle jar. Read the thread about that as well. :sunglasse Stev
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thanks stev, Hate to sound stupid here, but you think you can provide me with a link to the "Danger Den's RBX cold-block" that you mentiond? im a little new to all of this, but im learning :laughing: but ill be ordering the other stuff today. and thanks for the info stev, im sure alot of people would be lost here with out you. i did read the post about the 1 gal pickle jar, and will be looking into doing somthing simular :D: oh and i got my black electrical tape on stanby :eek: thanks bud hazz
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  • 3 weeks later...
Hazzman I changed everythng outside the HC to 3/8 ID and it worked fine. The Colder Couplers are the way to go. My temps are at 31c and never get above 32c and I have all three blocked water cooled. Here are a few pics for you. Marc
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My H20 setup is all 1/2inch stuff. Always has been. Would not have much of a difference on performance. UNLESS flow rate IS the issue. Pump has to work harder to get same flow rate. But flow rate is of dubious value. water goes faster, picks up less heat, or slower and picks up more heat. As long as the pump can push the water so it moves then is should be ok.
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[quote name='H2COOL']Hazzman I changed everythng outside the HC to 3/8 ID and it worked fine. The Colder Couplers are the way to go. My temps are at 31c and never get above 32c and I have all three blocked water cooled. Here are a few pics for you. Marc[/QUOTE] H2Cool, That is one neat looking reservoir. Any more pictures? Was this a home-built or purchased part? Stev
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Stev, The reservoir was home built. I installed fiber oftics inside the reservoir and lit them with 4 Blue LED's. The flow into the reservoir moved the ends of the fiber optics giving a great visual of the flowing coolant. I used the CPC connectors on the entire system which makes it easy for refilling and dissassembly. Here are some more pics of the reservoir. Marc
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H2COOL, that is a really nice resevoir. have you considered making them to sell to people? unfortunately i am not very crafty or imaginative enough to make something like that. if u ever decide to start to sell them, let me know. very nice job man!!!!!!!! :sunglasse
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BiO|Grr8xTc, I really haven't thought about making them for sale. It did take me about 6 hours and alot of trial and error. The parts are about $60 including the CNC connects withour the fiber oftics. Then adding about 4 hours of labor I am not sure there would be a market for this at over $100 a pop. If someone wanted a custom unit and $ is not the top priority I would consider it. I really am into custom woodworking but plastic can be shaped and molded much like wood with the same tools. Thanks for asking and thanks for the kind words on my system. Marc
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