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H150 elite capellix fans working and lightning up, but not showing on icue


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So ive been trying to fix this for days and im not able to find a solution tbh. I have everything properly connected and my fans are working and lightning up, two lof them are in color white and one on green idk why, they are connected to the hub that came with the aio but on icue, im not able to find them to adjust the RGB or anything, ive tried manually adding the fans and it didnt work, i have all the drivers of my mobo installed and icue up to date but nothing. One thing that is really weird is that the fans werent lightning at all at first, but today i decided to unplug one and try connecting it to the rgb header on the mobo, and suddenly, two of them turned on, the one that was connected didnt, i proceeded to connect it again to the hub and they were all lightning up now. Im breaking my head with this i dont understand anything XD.

 

To add some info, the fans are showing on icue, i cand adjust the speed and everything, but i dont get them to work

My specs are

asus z790 prime 

i9-13900k

gigabyte geforce gtx 1070

 

 

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Device detection is all about the usb 2 path from device to motherboard. While powered on, disconnect the usb from the Commander Core to motherboard, then reconnect. Make sure you are not trying to put it through a splitter or other device’s usb port. 
 

Don’t touch those RGB connectors to your motherboard RGB headers. They are not meant to go there and it’s not hard to zap the fan into a non-functional state. The Commander Core/XT don’t always have the same hardware lighting on first boot and it’s possible the intermittent usb signal caused the difference. You can’t check that out until you get the Com Core recognized. 

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8 hours ago, c-attack said:

Device detection is all about the usb 2 path from device to motherboard. While powered on, disconnect the usb from the Commander Core to motherboard, then reconnect. Make sure you are not trying to put it through a splitter or other device’s usb port. 
 

Don’t touch those RGB connectors to your motherboard RGB headers. They are not meant to go there and it’s not hard to zap the fan into a non-functional state. The Commander Core/XT don’t always have the same hardware lighting on first boot and it’s possible the intermittent usb signal caused the difference. You can’t check that out until you get the Com Core recognized. 

Not only it didn't work, now my h150 is blinking with a red light and can't pass through bios cause my CPU is getting like 88~ degrees, this ********ed me up cause its my only pc on the house and I can't do my programming homework 🤣. What should I do, maybe I should apply warranty but i live on an island and they will take like at least 2 weeks. If u can give me a way to reset the h150 or something it would be awesome 

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8 hours ago, c-attack said:

Device detection is all about the usb 2 path from device to motherboard. While powered on, disconnect the usb from the Commander Core to motherboard, then reconnect. Make sure you are not trying to put it through a splitter or other device’s usb port. 
 

Don’t touch those RGB connectors to your motherboard RGB headers. They are not meant to go there and it’s not hard to zap the fan into a non-functional state. The Commander Core/XT don’t always have the same hardware lighting on first boot and it’s possible the intermittent usb signal caused the difference. You can’t check that out until you get the Com Core recognized. 

By the way I'm not using any splitter or other USB device port

 

8 hours ago, c-attack said:

 

 

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5 minutes ago, chanoman said:

Not only it didn't work, now my h150 is blinking with a red light and can't pass through bios cause my CPU is getting like 88~ degrees

Shutdown, flip the PSU off, then disconnect the wide cable from the Commander Core to the pump top.  Reconnect, PSU back on, and power up.  This will force the Commander Core and top to reset.  The Elite Capellix coolers are prone to a false pump fail error, although actual CPU temp change is not normally part of this. 

 

The USB 2 connection only carries data from the Commander and AIO to the software.  It does not supply power and is not required for cooling the CPU,  although you certainly want it to work so you can control it.  Whether or not the USB is plugged in or not should never affect the cooling process.  

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7 minutes ago, c-attack said:

Shutdown, flip the PSU off, then disconnect the wide cable from the Commander Core to the pump top.  Reconnect, PSU back on, and power up.  This will force the Commander Core and top to reset.  The Elite Capellix coolers are prone to a false pump fail error, although actual CPU temp change is not normally part of this. 

 

The USB 2 connection only carries data from the Commander and AIO to the software.  It does not supply power and is not required for cooling the CPU,  although you certainly want it to work so you can control it.  Whether or not the USB is plugged in or not should never affect the cooling process.

I did it, but nothing, I can't send video but i will send u a picture

16698543033372726325208761214375.jpg

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17 minutes ago, c-attack said:

Shutdown, flip the PSU off, then disconnect the wide cable from the Commander Core to the pump top.  Reconnect, PSU back on, and power up.  This will force the Commander Core and top to reset.  The Elite Capellix coolers are prone to a false pump fail error, although actual CPU temp change is not normally part of this. 

 

The USB 2 connection only carries data from the Commander and AIO to the software.  It does not supply power and is not required for cooling the CPU,  although you certainly want it to work so you can control it.  Whether or not the USB is plugged in or not should never affect the cooling process.  

I managed to boot my PC and get though the bios, I opened icue and the aio was showing, but it said something about heating failure, it seems that the pump isn't working at all

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Was the USB plug the only thing you disconnected when powered on?  If you are getting real CPU temp increases, then the pump is not running.  The power reset may have fixed it if it was false, but something else seems to have happened.  

 

Start a Support Ticket with Corsair.  Stick with the "pump failure" and overheating in the BIOS issue.  You are not in a position to troubleshoot anything else and that is the only thing that matters right now.  They are likely to have you power cycle too and check the SATA to Commander Pro for power.  In your ticket, tell them lights are on and the fans running at maximum.  This clearly indicates the unit has power and you didn't disconnect a power lead.  Lights on and power but rapidly escalating temps means no pump action.  There's not much you can do.


Second part - Ask them for an "Advance RMA".  This is where they send you a new cooler first on credit card hold.  Once you get it and install it, you send the old one back and credit card hold is removed.  This is the fastest option available.  If you are really in trouble and can't go a day without the working PC, you need to source the cheapest, smallest air cooler you can find and stick it on for now while this gets sorted.  You'll need to keep a tight rein on the 13900K if running professional work loads during this.  

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9 minutes ago, c-attack said:

Was the USB plug the only thing you disconnected when powered on?  If you are getting real CPU temp increases, then the pump is not running.  The power reset may have fixed it if it was false, but something else seems to have happened.  

 

Start a Support Ticket with Corsair.  Stick with the "pump failure" and overheating in the BIOS issue.  You are not in a position to troubleshoot anything else and that is the only thing that matters right now.  They are likely to have you power cycle too and check the SATA to Commander Pro for power.  In your ticket, tell them lights are on and the fans running at maximum.  This clearly indicates the unit has power and you didn't disconnect a power lead.  Lights on and power but rapidly escalating temps means no pump action.  There's not much you can do.


Second part - Ask them for an "Advance RMA".  This is where they send you a new cooler first on credit card hold.  Once you get it and install it, you send the old one back and credit card hold is removed.  This is the fastest option available.  If you are really in trouble and can't go a day without the working PC, you need to source the cheapest, smallest air cooler you can find and stick it on for now while this gets sorted.  You'll need to keep a tight rein on the 13900K if running professional work loads during this.  

Thanks for the help, i will try contacting them tomorrow cause right now is 1am here. I dont know how it was working so perfectly except for the rgb and now is not working at all, it's kinda sad for me 

I will have to wait, I'm 19 and my only income is my 4h work and I spend it on the PC 🤣, so getting another aio seems impossible rn. But don't worry, I hope Corsair support can tell me something that can fix it and if not I will ask some friend for a laptop or a PC idk

 

Anyways thanks for the help, is appreciated anyways 

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