Flanno Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 According to Corsairs instructions : "Remove the plastic shell carefully and insert cold plate into retention ring, turning clockwise to secute" Well I did exactly this - I lined up the holes in the block, inserted it, making sure it made contact with cpu, and twisted - and the thing kep twisting!!. It didn't lock into place as I expected. Thought the screws were tightened too much as it also says in the instructions to only tighten them 1/2 to 3/4 turn,, but even loosening them slightly caused the ring to disengage. So I had sufficient "turnage" on the screws. I attempted a 2nd time (at this stage some of the stock thermal paste had transferred on to the cpu), and what I found was it worked if i inserted the block and twisted so the edges of the block would basically move under the ring. I noticed the Corsair logo was lined up face upwards, perfectly straight as in the videos on youtube. Tightened up and everything is fine. 1. I'd like to know if anyone else was confused about how this cold plate is supposed to lock into place. 2. Should I really go back and redo it with some other paste, seeing as the 1st time I bodged it and paste transferred onto the cpu. And I had lift the cold plate off a couple of times and retry before I got it right. 3. When I start up the pc, there is a noise coming from the pump for a few seconds and then it stops, and in normal operation but there is a faint ticking noise from the pump. Sounds more like a click you get from a fan. Only noticeable if case door open, case on desk. Not loud. Is this normal behaviour. Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
campbelln97 Posted October 8, 2009 Share Posted October 8, 2009 1. no 2. depends on the temps that you are experiencing 3. yes Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flanno Posted October 8, 2009 Author Share Posted October 8, 2009 Thanks mate. Just to clarify on point 3. - when you turn the pc on, the h50 makes noise for about 3 seconds and then stops - there is a faint ticking coming from the pump in normal operation Also - some people have said it's better to have the pump fitted with the corsair logo upside down. I've also read posts where people have said it's better to have the hoses positioned at the bottom of the rad. Any truth to any of this. I have mine installed like this (hoses coming from top of rad and entering bottom of block). http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f5yE7xE41C8 See 5.00. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
campbelln97 Posted October 9, 2009 Share Posted October 9, 2009 yes, in my experience the orientation makes a difference, it will certainly eliminate that "bubbling" sound for the first few seconds. i think thats caused by the pump pressurising. mine is mounted with the hoses at the bottom, so the corsair logo is upright. as for the ticking, im not too sure i have heard people complaining before but i havent noticed it myself. maybe will also be fixed by changing the orientation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flanno Posted October 9, 2009 Author Share Posted October 9, 2009 Thanks. Strangely I don't get the bubbling noise anymore. Rad moutned with hoses coming from top, and going to bottom of pump (corsar logo right way up). Ticking seems to not be as bad now. Hardly notiecable. I'll try mounting the pump a different way to see if it makes a difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laxxor Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 The instructions definately are not clear - the "twist to lock in place" statement implies that rotation will only occurr to a certain point, where as in actual fact the "locking" is <1mm lugs on the top surface of each "tooth" on the pump unit sitting inside indents on the locking ring. While it could be said that a visual review of the components would show the user what is "locking" into where, it is an acceptable assumption that any instructions included with a product are descriptive and accurate. Another amusment I found with the instructions was that all diagrams showed the radiator and pump unit disconnected from each other - not quite how I envisage a sealed unit being installed... The only reservations about the unit I have is that, having had to remove the pump due to dead motherboard: The copper transfer area is larger than the exposed surface of a CPU - the twist action highlihts this as I found thermal compound on the securing plate that clamps the CPU in place - all other coolers I've ever used sit directly on the CPU surface. This would imply that there is clamping pressure being transferred to the CPU socket surrounds and that the copper surface is not 100% in contact with the CPU (also proven by the fact that thermal compound transfer only occurred on one corner of the CPU).The adhesive pad on the backing plate for the locking ring is pretty much a write-off should you have to replace the motherboard or CPU, and with no spare included in the box I'm finding myself unsure what to use as a replacement. As I've yet to actually have a working system to fire up, I can't comment on actuall cooling performance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barrd123 Posted October 17, 2009 Share Posted October 17, 2009 As to the foam tape for the back plate...I would imagine any type of double sided tape would work. It's main function is to cushion the motherboard a little and keep the back plate in place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.