Obsidian 250d and H100i gtx

[Pezay]

That's perfect, Pezay! And yes, if a MB has more I/O port crap stuckiung up in the way, the hoses won't work out in the back, and if you want them in the front you definitely can't use the front fan.

 

Sorry about not getting photos up before you did your project; I've been being lazy and distracted by other stuff. I'm glad you went ahead and gave it a shot.

 

In my case, no pun intended, I didn't have to use any force to get the side cover on. However, the side cover on that side is a pain in the butt to take off compared to the other side ... it just snaps in there really lightly. It doesnt touch the radiator though.

 

Regardless, the GTX certainly fits and won't cause any issues at all. Enjoy!

 

-Doc

 

 

EDIT: Did you remove the three bottom fan screws? If not, that might be why the side was harder to get on ... it might push the radiator out far enough to get in the way a bit. I took them out just to keep them from potentially pushing against anything on the MB or power riser card, and because there's no structual loss in not having them in there.

 

Thanks anyway Doc! :p:

 

No, I didn't remove the the bottom screw, maybe that's what makes it stick out a bit. But it's no big deal. You can't spot anything from outside anyway. It's just a bit hard to get in place, but hopefully that's not the sidepanel that is going to be removed that often. :sunglasse

 

I just removed the upper right screw on the right fan to fit the 5,25" cage. It was tight as it was without the screw.... :biggrin:

[drzoidberg33]

Just wanted to revive this thread as I've recently purchased the 250d and h100i GTX.

 

If you're planning to build a system like this I'd stay away from the Asus Z170i Pro Gaming motherboard. While it does all fit together in the end there is only one way of mounting the radiator which blocks you from mounting the front fan case.

 

The main issue is caused by the location of the 8 pin CPU power on the motherboard, the rad gets in the way of the clip on the 8 pin power connector. I guess you could probably saw off the clip on the connector but I'd prefer not to have this come loose while the computer is running.

 

 

So in the end I mounted it with the hoses in the front of the case and no front intake fan.

 

If heat become an issue I'll probably replace this case for something else even though I think it's a really nice case.

[dimmanramone]

Hi,

 

Instead of opening a new thread I'm hijacking this one instead.

 

I just finished my new system. I'm using an Asus Z170 pro gaming and my old H100i that I actually RMA'd this week because the leds are not functioning anymore. I talked with Corsair and they just have the v2 of h100i, so if I send back my old one the replacement will be a v2.

 

I read everyone has problem fitting the H100i GTX and the H100i v2 in the 250d.

 

Some have removed the lower bracket and mounted it with the hoses in the front of the case. Other are using slimmer fans etc.

 

I started wondering if it is a good idea to send my old H100i back to Corsair.

 

And now it is coming a storm of questions :D (sorry about that)

 

Is there anyone that actually managed to fit the GTX or the v2 in the 250d using an Asus Z170 pro gaming and have the hoses at the back of the case?

 

If I chage the 140mm fan with a 120mm in the front will I be able to fit the H100i with the hoses in the front and still have an intake 120mm fan?

 

The ones that are using H100i GTX, v1 and v2 do you have your fans as intake or exhaust?

 

Anyone that is using 80mm fans? I'm between the Noctua NF-R8 and the Noiseblocker Multiframe (PWM both of them).

 

One more thing that I noticed with the v2 of H100i is that you cannot connect more that 2 fans on it, on the v1 I was able to connect up to 4. This is a problem if I decide to use the v2 of H100i because there are not enough fan headers in the motherboard to connect the rest of the fans. Asus Z170 gaming pro has 1 cpu fan header and 2 sys fan headers. So if I want 1 fan in the front and 2 at the back of the case it seems that I have to use a fan splitter. Is it safe to use a fan splitter on the fan header?

 

There is always the solution to go with the Maximus VIII Impact that seems to have less problems with the GTX and v2 but then I cannot use my m.2 disk.

 

And one last question if anyone remounted the v1 with arctic cooling mx4? I cannot find shin etsu in sweden and I had to go with something else, but it doesn't seem to work so well, my temps in almost idle state is around 40 degrees.

 

Thanks in advance for all the answers and help

 

/dimmanramone

 

Just wanted to revive this thread as I've recently purchased the 250d and h100i GTX.

 

If you're planning to build a system like this I'd stay away from the Asus Z170i Pro Gaming motherboard. While it does all fit together in the end there is only one way of mounting the radiator which blocks you from mounting the front fan case.

 

The main issue is caused by the location of the 8 pin CPU power on the motherboard, the rad gets in the way of the clip on the 8 pin power connector. I guess you could probably saw off the clip on the connector but I'd prefer not to have this come loose while the computer is running.

 

 

So in the end I mounted it with the hoses in the front of the case and no front intake fan.

 

If heat become an issue I'll probably replace this case for something else even though I think it's a really nice case.

[drzoidberg33]

Hi,

 

Instead of opening a new thread I'm hijacking this one instead.

 

I just finished my new system. I'm using an Asus Z170 pro gaming and my old H100i that I actually RMA'd this week because the leds are not functioning anymore. I talked with Corsair and they just have the v2 of h100i, so if I send back my old one the replacement will be a v2.

 

I read everyone has problem fitting the H100i GTX and the H100i v2 in the 250d.

 

Some have removed the lower bracket and mounted it with the hoses in the front of the case. Other are using slimmer fans etc.

 

I started wondering if it is a good idea to send my old H100i back to Corsair.

 

And now it is coming a storm of questions :D (sorry about that)

 

Is there anyone that actually managed to fit the GTX or the v2 in the 250d using an Asus Z170 pro gaming and have the hoses at the back of the case?

 

If I chage the 140mm fan with a 120mm in the front will I be able to fit the H100i with the hoses in the front and still have an intake 120mm fan?

 

The ones that are using H100i GTX, v1 and v2 do you have your fans as intake or exhaust?

 

Anyone that is using 80mm fans? I'm between the Noctua NF-R8 and the Noiseblocker Multiframe (PWM both of them).

 

One more thing that I noticed with the v2 of H100i is that you cannot connect more that 2 fans on it, on the v1 I was able to connect up to 4. This is a problem if I decide to use the v2 of H100i because there are not enough fan headers in the motherboard to connect the rest of the fans. Asus Z170 gaming pro has 1 cpu fan header and 2 sys fan headers. So if I want 1 fan in the front and 2 at the back of the case it seems that I have to use a fan splitter. Is it safe to use a fan splitter on the fan header?

 

There is always the solution to go with the Maximus VIII Impact that seems to have less problems with the GTX and v2 but then I cannot use my m.2 disk.

 

And one last question if anyone remounted the v1 with arctic cooling mx4? I cannot find shin etsu in sweden and I had to go with something else, but it doesn't seem to work so well, my temps in almost idle state is around 40 degrees.

 

Thanks in advance for all the answers and help

 

/dimmanramone

 

Is there anyone that actually managed to fit the GTX or the v2 in the 250d using an Asus Z170 pro gaming and have the hoses at the back of the case?

 

I've been thinking of the best way to achieve this and it is possible but will require a few mods.

 

Firstly I think the mounting point for the rad, even at the highest position, is just too low and the bottom hose interferes with the PS2/USB connector on the board. You can drill new mounting holes a few mm higher to solve this though as there is still enough space vertically.

 

Secondly as I mentioned in my previous post is that the CPU power connector gets in the way. I was thinking of cutting away a small recess in the radiator frame just so that 8 pin connector can clip in securely. This will surely void the warranty though which I'm not sure I really want to do.

 

If I can find another mITX case that looks good, can fit an optical drive and AIO while staying at this price point I'll probably sell the 250d. The Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX looks awesome but doesn't have optical and I'm not too keen on an external Blu-ray drive.

 

 

If I chage the 140mm fan with a 120mm in the front will I be able to fit the H100i with the hoses in the front and still have an intake 120mm fan?

 

No.

 

Anyone that is using 80mm fans? I'm between the Noctua NF-R8 and the Noiseblocker Multiframe (PWM both of them).

 

I've considered it but never really been a fan of 80mm (waap waap).

 

And one last question if anyone remounted the v1 with arctic cooling mx4?

 

No, but I don't see a problem. I've used mx4 in the past in it works fine, not the best but it's a point where I don't think it's worth spending extra on thermal compound as it gets a lot more expensive for very little return.

[dimmanramone]

Is there anyone that actually managed to fit the GTX or the v2 in the 250d using an Asus Z170 pro gaming and have the hoses at the back of the case?

 

I've been thinking of the best way to achieve this and it is possible but will require a few mods.

 

Firstly I think the mounting point for the rad, even at the highest position, is just too low and the bottom hose interferes with the PS2/USB connector on the board. You can drill new mounting holes a few mm higher to solve this though as there is still enough space vertically.

 

Secondly as I mentioned in my previous post is that the CPU power connector gets in the way. I was thinking of cutting away a small recess in the radiator frame just so that 8 pin connector can clip in securely. This will surely void the warranty though which I'm not sure I really want to do.

 

If I can find another mITX case that looks good, can fit an optical drive and AIO while staying at this price point I'll probably sell the 250d. The Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ITX looks awesome but doesn't have optical and I'm not too keen on an external Blu-ray drive.

 

I decided finally to proceed with the RMA for my H100i and see if I manage to fit the replacement (It should be an h100i v2) in the case. I was even thinking to test to drill some holes for screws to move the radiator a bit to the front and try to have the pipes between the ports and the cpu header, if it is doable, else I will return the 250d and go for an air 240. It looks like a good case with good airflow and the dimensions are quite similar to 250d even if the 250d looks better.

 

Anyone that is using 80mm fans? I'm between the Noctua NF-R8 and the Noiseblocker Multiframe (PWM both of them).

 

I've considered it but never really been a fan of 80mm (waap waap).

 

Well I'm not a fan either but I was thinking that should be good for the airflow.

[Scalptrash]

From what I am reading, the 250D is now obsolete. At least Corsair doesn't have any 240mm radiators that will fit properly in their current lineup. Due to the popularity of this case, I am surprised that COrsair hasn't released a v2 version of the 250D, that WILL accommodate their current lineup of 240mm radiators. The H100i is getting very difficult to find and is usually quite expensive now, due to it's rarity.

I was ready to build a 250D until I did a little research and discovered these issues. Corsair is making it very difficult to build a system using all Corsair components, unfortunately.

Modifying the case to make current radiators work is not a clean solution or what Corsair originally intended with the 250D. Corsair has dropped the ball here and their 250D literature and specs should be updated to clearly point out that only certain radiators work (no current models) w/o modification.

[Doc. Caliban]

From what I am reading, the 250D is now obsolete. At least Corsair doesn't have any 240mm radiators that will fit properly in their current lineup. Due to the popularity of this case, I am surprised that COrsair hasn't released a v2 version of the 250D, that WILL accommodate their current lineup of 240mm radiators. The H100i is getting very difficult to find and is usually quite expensive now, due to it's rarity.

I was ready to build a 250D until I did a little research and discovered these issues. Corsair is making it very difficult to build a system using all Corsair components, unfortunately.

Modifying the case to make current radiators work is not a clean solution or what Corsair originally intended with the 250D. Corsair has dropped the ball here and their 250D literature and specs should be updated to clearly point out that only certain radiators work (no current models) w/o modification.

 

I agree that it is weird that they don't have a working combo.

 

However, I can't emphasise enough that the "modification" needed is as minimal as it gets. Mine has been build like this and hauld around for LAN parties for about a year now and there are zero problems. It's solid as a rock. It simply allows the radiator to cant a couple milimeters.

 

Best,

 

-Doc

[moldyspore]

For anyone still dealing with this issue, here is a bit more detailed info:

 

The updated H100i (H100i v2) can be mounted in the 250D. Depending on your motherboard, you can even mount it the correct direction (hoses from front of case) and still fit in pretty much everything you'd need for a gaming build.

 

Install order: H100i v2, motherboard (with CPU and Memory already in place), power supply (cable route for the CPU power in the back right corner of the case and any additional power for hard drives), install hard drives/SATA SSDs, then videocard last.

 

1) The H100i v2 fits by not attaching the bottom 4 screws. There is a brace that is part of the case that the bottom 4 screws go into when installing the 240mm radiator. That piece is held on with 2 screws to the case. Remove the two screws and the brace.

 

2) Setup your H100i v2 for push configuration from inside the case (SP fans pushing air through radiator to outside of case) using the normal long screws.

 

3) Secure the radiator to the case along the top of the radiator using 4 of the normal short screws + small washers.

 

4) The H100i v2 will rest against the motherboard tray, but will be able to "flex" or "swing" a bit away from the motherboard tray.

 

5) Before installing the motherboard, take a moment to find some black electrical tape. Put a tiny piece (just enough to cover) over the top of each screw that is holding the fans in place along the bottom (closest to the motherboard tray). This will prevent any possible issue with the screws touching the motherboard. It is overkill, since the edge of every motherboard PCB does not contain any conductible material, but just in case this gives piece of mind.

 

6) Install the motherboard normally. The radiator will be able to flex a bit towards the outside of the case to allow for the motherboard install. After the mobo is secure, the screws from the fans along the bottom of the radiator should be just barely touch/possibly just barely not touching the edge of the motherboard PCB. Attach the H100i v2 to the CPU and you're good to go!

 

This mod allows for the installation of 2 x 80mm fans along the back of the case, since the H100i v2 can be mounted so the tubes come from the front of the case. One of the tubes will rest against the front fan (You will most likely not be able to install a 200mm fan, but the 140mm that comes with the case is fine and moves more than enough air) but will not flex enough to cause damage or concern.

 

There should be no concern about the radiator, it functions exactly the same whether it is mounted with 4 screws or 8. The slight angle it is on doesn't change the airflow or performance in the least.

 

Here are a few pictures for reference:

 

https://imgur.com/a/sypQK

 

My build specs:

Intel i5 8600K

G.Skill 16GB DDR4-2400

Asus ROG Strix Z370 ITX

Samsung 960 EVO M.2 SSD

Corsair H100i v2 240mm Water Cooler/Radiator

MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1060 6GB (Yes, the 250D fits a PCI-E power connector that plugs in on the top of the card)

[PaulAm87]

For anyone still dealing with this issue, here is a bit more detailed info:

 

The updated H100i (H100i v2) can be mounted in the 250D. Depending on your motherboard, you can even mount it the correct direction (hoses from front of case) and still fit in pretty much everything you'd need for a gaming build.

 

Install order: H100i v2, motherboard (with CPU and Memory already in place), power supply (cable route for the CPU power in the back right corner of the case and any additional power for hard drives), install hard drives/SATA SSDs, then videocard last.

 

1) The H100i v2 fits by not attaching the bottom 4 screws. There is a brace that is part of the case that the bottom 4 screws go into when installing the 240mm radiator. That piece is held on with 2 screws to the case. Remove the two screws and the brace.

 

2) Setup your H100i v2 for push configuration from inside the case (SP fans pushing air through radiator to outside of case) using the normal long screws.

 

3) Secure the radiator to the case along the top of the radiator using 4 of the normal short screws + small washers.

 

4) The H100i v2 will rest against the motherboard tray, but will be able to "flex" or "swing" a bit away from the motherboard tray.

 

5) Before installing the motherboard, take a moment to find some black electrical tape. Put a tiny piece (just enough to cover) over the top of each screw that is holding the fans in place along the bottom (closest to the motherboard tray). This will prevent any possible issue with the screws touching the motherboard. It is overkill, since the edge of every motherboard PCB does not contain any conductible material, but just in case this gives piece of mind.

 

6) Install the motherboard normally. The radiator will be able to flex a bit towards the outside of the case to allow for the motherboard install. After the mobo is secure, the screws from the fans along the bottom of the radiator should be just barely touch/possibly just barely not touching the edge of the motherboard PCB. Attach the H100i v2 to the CPU and you're good to go!

 

This mod allows for the installation of 2 x 80mm fans along the back of the case, since the H100i v2 can be mounted so the tubes come from the front of the case. One of the tubes will rest against the front fan (You will most likely not be able to install a 200mm fan, but the 140mm that comes with the case is fine and moves more than enough air) but will not flex enough to cause damage or concern.

 

There should be no concern about the radiator, it functions exactly the same whether it is mounted with 4 screws or 8. The slight angle it is on doesn't change the airflow or performance in the least.

 

Here are a few pictures for reference:

 

https://imgur.com/a/sypQK

 

My build specs:

Intel i5 8600K

G.Skill 16GB DDR4-2400

Asus ROG Strix Z370 ITX

Samsung 960 EVO M.2 SSD

Corsair H100i v2 240mm Water Cooler/Radiator

MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1060 6GB (Yes, the 250D fits a PCI-E power connector that plugs in on the top of the card)

 

The only issue with that setup would be the loss of the optical drive, if you want to have an optical drive and a newer itx board the H100 wont really fit due to the 4 pin Mboard connection being in the top left near the I/O?

[moldyspore]

 

As I mentioned at the bottom of my post, I'm using an Asus ROG Strix Z370 ITX, which is an 8th generation Intel board, so it is modern. I had no issues with the CPU power connection, it fed nicely through the back corner of the case and up to plug in. I even fed this up and through while the H100i v2 was installed. After the CPU power was in, then I installed the two rear 80mm fans.

 

Yes, you do lose the optical drive. So if you absolutely need to have one in your ITX build, you should look elsewhere. But honestly there are less and less reasons to include an optical drive in a computer. Don't even need it to install Windows and/or drivers anymore. The loss of the optical drive barely noticeable nowadays. In most other cases, even much newer ones and/or larger ones, that I've done ITX builds in I still wind up having to remove the optical bay cage if I want to include a 240/280mm radiator. So this isn't an issue exclusive to the 250D, despite its age.

[Harry1992]

For anyone still dealing with this issue, here is a bit more detailed info:

 

The updated H100i (H100i v2) can be mounted in the 250D. Depending on your motherboard, you can even mount it the correct direction (hoses from front of case) and still fit in pretty much everything you'd need for a gaming build.

 

Install order: H100i v2, motherboard (with CPU and Memory already in place), power supply (cable route for the CPU power in the back right corner of the case and any additional power for hard drives), install hard drives/SATA SSDs, then videocard last.

 

1) The H100i v2 fits by not attaching the bottom 4 screws. There is a brace that is part of the case that the bottom 4 screws go into when installing the 240mm radiator. That piece is held on with 2 screws to the case. Remove the two screws and the brace.

 

2) Setup your H100i v2 for push configuration from inside the case (SP fans pushing air through radiator to outside of case) using the normal long screws.

 

3) Secure the radiator to the case along the top of the radiator using 4 of the normal short screws + small washers.

 

4) The H100i v2 will rest against the motherboard tray, but will be able to "flex" or "swing" a bit away from the motherboard tray.

 

5) Before installing the motherboard, take a moment to find some black electrical tape. Put a tiny piece (just enough to cover) over the top of each screw that is holding the fans in place along the bottom (closest to the motherboard tray). This will prevent any possible issue with the screws touching the motherboard. It is overkill, since the edge of every motherboard PCB does not contain any conductible material, but just in case this gives piece of mind.

 

6) Install the motherboard normally. The radiator will be able to flex a bit towards the outside of the case to allow for the motherboard install. After the mobo is secure, the screws from the fans along the bottom of the radiator should be just barely touch/possibly just barely not touching the edge of the motherboard PCB. Attach the H100i v2 to the CPU and you're good to go!

 

This mod allows for the installation of 2 x 80mm fans along the back of the case, since the H100i v2 can be mounted so the tubes come from the front of the case. One of the tubes will rest against the front fan (You will most likely not be able to install a 200mm fan, but the 140mm that comes with the case is fine and moves more than enough air) but will not flex enough to cause damage or concern.

 

There should be no concern about the radiator, it functions exactly the same whether it is mounted with 4 screws or 8. The slight angle it is on doesn't change the airflow or performance in the least.

 

Here are a few pictures for reference:

 

https://imgur.com/a/sypQK

 

My build specs:

Intel i5 8600K

G.Skill 16GB DDR4-2400

Asus ROG Strix Z370 ITX

Samsung 960 EVO M.2 SSD

Corsair H100i v2 240mm Water Cooler/Radiator

MSI Nvidia GeForce GTX 1060 6GB (Yes, the 250D fits a PCI-E power connector that plugs in on the top of the card)

 

Stumbled across this while doing some research for a 250d build. Very useful and I think i'm going for the same build (with a different GPU). I have two questions.

 

1) What are your temperatures and noise levels like?

 

2) How tight is the AIO hose against the front fan? I'm looking at getting a Noctua fan to replace the stock one, but from what I can see the Noctua fan has a straight square side, while the stock fan looks to be curved where the AIO hose fits through.

 

(bonus question): how quiet is the stock 140mm fan?

[moldyspore]

So I figured we can finally lay this issue to rest with the 250D and H100i compatibility.

 

I recently had the pump in my v2 die. So rather than wait for an RMA I just picked up the new H100i PRO RGB, new in 2018.

 

I'm happy to report that the PRO RGB fits into the 250D without the need to remove the bottom brace. You can install it with all 8 screws, top and bottom. It is still very snug, but I am using full size 120mm SP fans, not small form factor ones, and still have 2 x 80mm exhaust fans mounted in the back.

 

Finally the 250D is viable with the H100i without modifications again! Huzzah!