Corsair Commander Pro Issue

Hi,

I purchased a Corsair Commander Pro to control some fans.

It works with 4 Noctua fans which are the following :

- Front : NF A14 IPPC 3000

- Top : NF A12

- GPU Rad : 2* NF F12 IPPC 3000

My problem is the following :

One of the NF F12 IPPC 3000 is recognized like randomly by the Commander Pro, not depending of which slot I plugged it into the commander. Sometimes it's gonna work fine, sometimes it's just not gonna spin at all and show 0 RPM, sometimes it's not gonna show at all in iCue.

Also this morning when it stopped working with this fan in particular, if the fan was plugged into the Corsair, my computer would light up, start (this fan was spinning), then stop after 2s, and restart (and then the fan wasn't spinning).

If I unplugged the fan and plug it into the manual controller of my case it would boot up immediatly without the "self restart" thing.

Also sometimes, and randomly, everything is wrong. Like just now I was playing and checking the GPU temp on Afterburner, and I found the fans way to loud, and in fact in iCue there was only the front and top fan showing, the RPM was changing randomly (from 514 to 15000+ rpm) and the temperature sensors were completely wrong (it was showing 5 degrees for the one agaisnt the backplate of the GPU). (-> this issue in particular, maybe it's because I launched HWINFO64 ?)

I was forced to restart so it worked "properly" again.

So for now, I currently ordered a new 'NF F12 IPPC 3000' to replace the one that don't wanna work with the Commander (this one is currently plugged in the manual controller that's given with my case and works fine) but I'm starting to think maybe the fan is completely fine, and the problem comes from the Commander ?

So maybe some of you experienced something similar or have ideas about that.

Thanks for any of your help.

TLDR of what I tried :

- Exchange every fans with any of the 6 slots used

- Force update iCue

- Reinstall iCue

- Build is new, every components are new

- Ordering a New fan (but out of stock so im waiting)

- Ordering a New Commander (will arrive tomorrow, I can send it back if it's not the problem cause Amazon good return policy)

You likely need to come up with a new plan. The two 3000 RPM PWM versions of the Noctua Industrial line (NF12 & A14) have never worked well on the Commander Pro. It is something with the controller and PWM signal, but you are not going to be able work this out unless you are an electrical engineer and can make your PWM circuit. Interestingly, the 2000 RPM PWM and of course DC motor versions work fine, so it does suggest there is something different with the highest speed motor. Given the specification and amperage on that motor I am not completely surprised it behaves differently to the 2000 PWM.

So you either need a different fan controller that does not have an issue with that specific fan model or I would suggest moving down to the 2000 rpm version. Outside of sport overclocking, I am not sure who needs more than 2000 rpm on anything. Hard to be in the same room, declining cooling benefits on anything but a massively dense custom radiator. You also need to watch the current on the 3000 rpm model and can never use it on a splitter with most controllers. By comparison, the 2000 PWM version draws a pittance and can be more easily managed.

Incidentally, the other fan with commonly reported PWM control issues is the PWM BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 and 3 series. Sadly I have boxes of those as well.

You likely need to come up with a new plan. The two 3000 RPM PWM versions of the Noctua Industrial line (NF12 & A14) have never worked well on the Commander Pro. It is something with the controller and PWM signal, but you are not going to be able work this out unless you are an electrical engineer and can make your PWM circuit. Interestingly, the 2000 RPM PWM and of course DC motor versions work fine, so it does suggest there is something different with the highest speed motor. Given the specification and amperage on that motor I am not completely surprised it behaves differently to the 2000 PWM.

 

So you either need a different fan controller that does not have an issue with that specific fan model or I would suggest moving down to the 2000 rpm version. Outside of sport overclocking, I am not sure who needs more than 2000 rpm on anything. Hard to be in the same room, declining cooling benefits on anything but a massively dense custom radiator. You also need to watch the current on the 3000 rpm model and can never use it on a splitter with most controllers. By comparison, the 2000 PWM version draws a pittance and can be more easily managed.

 

Incidentally, the other fan with commonly reported PWM control issues is the PWM BeQuiet Silent Wings 2 and 3 series. Sadly I have boxes of those as well.

Interesting. I could downgrade the 2 NF F12 which I'm using on the GPU to some 2000 version instead of 3000 easily.

You think it would be better with only the front 140MM being a 3000 one ?

Or maybe even forgetting about the 2NF F12 and put 2 LL120 White on the GPU Rad instead (cause I already have the H100i white with LL120 on one side and NF F12 2000 on the other side)

I think the 3000 RPM PWM versions of the Industrial line are problematic on the Commander Pro. This issue pops up regularly. I can confirm the 2000 PWM Industrial line works and this have never been reported on the standard, Redux, or Chromax lines. The 3000 industrial version is different than all the others for reasons that are likely proprietary to Noctua. I did talk with them about that model in general a few years back and the general sentiment was "industrial means industrial", even though at that time we were all buying them because they were that very elusive high performance black fan.

I don't know how you can stand 3000 rpm on any fan in the system. That is too much for me. I have some 350+ fans in this room with me but the 3000i versions only stayed here for 3 days. Too much. If you are not running at 2000 rpm+, you are not getting any further benefit. At 1500 rpm or any other below 2000, the A14i or NF12i 2000 RPM version moves the same air as the 3000 version. Same blade, same frame, same airflow and pressure characteristics. Additionally, the higher current motor has much higher minimum speeds vs the 2000 rpm models. Those can run at 400 rpm or so, probably too low for a 120mm fan. On the other hand, the A14i 3000 has a minimum around 800 rpm and that is too much for me for Winter while working quietly on the desktop. Noise is obviously subjective, but there are some definite drawbacks to the higher speed model.

I think the 3000 RPM PWM versions of the Industrial line are problematic on the Commander Pro. This issue pops up regularly. I can confirm the 2000 PWM Industrial line works and this have never been reported on the standard, Redux, or Chromax lines. The 3000 industrial version is different than all the others for reasons that are likely proprietary to Noctua. I did talk with them about that model in general a few years back and the general sentiment was "industrial means industrial", even though at that time we were all buying them because they were that very elusive high performance black fan.

 

I don't know how you can stand 3000 rpm on any fan in the system. That is too much for me. I have some 350+ fans in this room with me but the 3000i versions only stayed here for 3 days. Too much. If you are not running at 2000 rpm+, you are not getting any further benefit. At 1500 rpm or any other below 2000, the A14i or NF12i 2000 RPM version moves the same air as the 3000 version. Same blade, same frame, same airflow and pressure characteristics. Additionally, the higher current motor has much higher minimum speeds vs the 2000 rpm models. Those can run at 400 rpm or so, probably too low for a 120mm fan. On the other hand, the A14i 3000 has a minimum around 800 rpm and that is too much for me for Winter while working quietly on the desktop. Noise is obviously subjective, but there are some definite drawbacks to the higher speed model.

I don't really care about noise, that's why I initially went for 3000 version of them, because they were priced exactly the same then the 2000 ones, so in my mind it was (guess, if one day I need to actually push more, I will be able to do it).

So based on what you told me. I'm gonna send back those 2 NF F12 IPPC 3000, and replace them with 2LL120 White, this will fit better in my white build (and the spec difference between the LL120 White and NF F12 2000 is not big), and considering I already own the Corsair Commander Pro this one will also let me control the RGB of those fans.

Hopefully I'll don't have any problem with the NF A14 3000 one at the front. If I have a problem with it, I'll replace it also.

That's sad though, I had no clue at all that the 3000 version ones would be that much different.

I'll tell you by the end of the week, most things should get delivered this sunday.

(If Amazon doesn't become crazy cause in like one week I ordered, returned and reordered like 8 things).

So based on what you told me. I'm gonna send back those 2 NF F12 IPPC 3000, and replace them with 2LL120 White, this will fit better in my white build (and the spec difference between the LL120 White and NF F12 2000 is not big), and considering I already own the Corsair Commander Pro this one will also let me control the RGB of those fans.

Normally I downplay differences in fan specifications and they have no meaningful impact on actual end temperatures. However, if those LL120s are going on a radiator, do understand the central hub is slightly bigger than your typical fan and this does have a measurable impact on coolant temperature for radiator use. I have mostly tested this on 140mm fans and 280mm radiators and like speeds, but there is at least a 2C difference at 300W load. That does not mean they are ineffective, but if you are an efficiency maximizer, that sometimes can be off putting. That said, I am running 2x360 with 6 standard LLs right now and I still only run coolant loads of +5-7C over ambient with 450-550W load and sub-1500 rpm speeds. The world did not end.

Also, if these will be your first Corsair RGB fans, make sure you take a look at the lighting guide below. The Commander Pro will act as the software interface (no need for LNP). However, you will still need a RGB Lighting Hub. This is the power pathway for the fan lighting. Those normally come in a triple pack of LL120s or dual pack of LL140. Otherwise, it is $10 but not always easy to find.

Zotty's Guide

Normally I downplay differences in fan specifications and they have no meaningful impact on actual end temperatures. However, if those LL120s are going on a radiator, do understand the central hub is slightly bigger than your typical fan and this does have a measurable impact on coolant temperature for radiator use. I have mostly tested this on 140mm fans and 280mm radiators and like speeds, but there is at least a 2C difference at 300W load. That does not mean they are ineffective, but if you are an efficiency maximizer, that sometimes can be off putting. That said, I am running 2x360 with 6 standard LLs right now and I still only run coolant loads of +5-7C over ambient with 450-550W load and sub-1500 rpm speeds. The world did not end.

 

Also, if these will be your first Corsair RGB fans, make sure you take a look at the lighting guide below. The Commander Pro will act as the software interface (no need for LNP). However, you will still need a RGB Lighting Hub. This is the power pathway for the fan lighting. Those normally come in a triple pack of LL120s or dual pack of LL140. Otherwise, it is $10 but not always easy to find.

 

Zotty's Guide

Ok well not sure if I understood correctly the thing about the central hub. You mean the circular thing in the center of the fan that holds all the "tech" of the fan ? Tbh I didn't really saw a difference between those I have on my H100i and the NF F12 I already have on the GPU Rad ?

Here is my actual setup : https://imgur.com/a/azeO4N2

On the H100i my coolant temp (which is the temp I see in iCue) is at 33.7 degrees at idle / Browser usage which is around 5 degrees warmer than the ambiant air so that's seems okay to me (even if I have one side with LL120 and one side with NF F12 2000 and they are paired with a "Y" splitter to the pump).

About the fans and their leds, thanks for your guide. But I'm not sure to get it. If I have the 2 LED slots available on the Commander Pro, why would I need something else ? I will also receive the Led Lighting Node PRO with 4 Led strip.

I found it available on the Corsair website but with 10€ shipping.

When you have the LL fan in your hand, the central hub size will be more apparent. However, for a CPU cooler that is only going to see 100-200W at most (probably less for Ryzen 3 but I have not seen a lot of real power numbers yet), fan selection is not as critical. It has more meaning for large watt loads, the kind you get from multi-component or GPU cooling loops. So for the 120mm radiator in the back for the hybrid GPU, maybe... but differences further reduced when in push pull. Also, it really doesn't matter if your GPU temps are 45, 47, or 49. None of those are anywhere close the temp limit where it downclocks. Although, having the full water version of that card, I am curious what kind of GPU temps you see.

The Lighting Node Pro (LNP) and Commander Pro (C-Pro) are both software interface devices. This is how everything relays changes from the software iCUE back to the devices. While the Commander Pro does draw its fan control power from its SATA line, the fan LED lighting current needs it's own pathway. 6xLL fans are 3.72A of lighting current. You can't run that through your motherboard header. Since you have the Platinum SE cooler that has it's own internal power and lighting devices, I suspect you don't have and have not seen the RGB Hub before. It is an essential piece and is the supply and regulation of the lighting current straight from the PSU->hub->fan. This is independent of fan speed control.

A Commander Pro is a LNP + fan controller. You only need the LNP if you need two more LED channels. Otherwise, the Strip Pro pack (or whatever they call it) that has the extensions may be more valuable.

When you have the LL fan in your hand, the central hub size will be more apparent. However, for a CPU cooler that is only going to see 100-200W at most (probably less for Ryzen 3 but I have not seen a lot of real power numbers yet), fan selection is not as critical. It has more meaning for large watt loads, the kind you get from multi-component or GPU cooling loops. So for the 120mm radiator in the back for the hybrid GPU, maybe... but differences further reduced when in push pull. Also, it really doesn't matter if your GPU temps are 45, 47, or 49. None of those are anywhere close the temp limit where it downclocks. Although, having the full water version of that card, I am curious what kind of GPU temps you see.

 

The Lighting Node Pro (LNP) and Commander Pro (C-Pro) are both software interface devices. This is how everything relays changes from the software iCUE back to the devices. While the Commander Pro does draw its fan control power from its SATA line, the fan LED lighting current needs it's own pathway. 6xLL fans are 3.72A of lighting current. You can't run that through your motherboard header. Since you have the Platinum SE cooler that has it's own internal power and lighting devices, I suspect you don't have and have not seen the RGB Hub before. It is an essential piece and is the supply and regulation of the lighting current straight from the PSU->hub->fan. This is independent of fan speed control.

 

A Commander Pro is a LNP + fan controller. You only need the LNP if you need two more LED channels. Otherwise, the Strip Pro pack (or whatever they call it) that has the extensions may be more valuable.

Currently I get temperature between the 75/80 degrees under full load (with a power limit at 110%) for the GPU. And 45 degrees Idle.

I found this quite hot but I guess the "AIO" part of this one is mostly marketing. But I got it for free so not gonna complain. Anyway I'll probably stick to a triple fans model when the day to replace this card will come.

I ordered the triple LL120 pack with the small RGB Lighting Hub then and cancelled the others 2. So I'm sure I get what I need so it works fine ^^.

Thanks a lot for your help.

Yeah, the triple pack will cover it. Interesting about the GPU temps. I could run my Titan X Pascal overclocked to the limit and keep it under 54C on a 120mm radiator on the hottest day of the year. I was pretty stunned when I was breaking 50C on the full water MSI 2080 Ti Seahawk EK X with a stand alone 280mm custom loop. I had to redo the entire system to bring the temps down to my expectations. Now I max out in the high 40s (GPU temp) with mid 30s coolant temp in Summer. I was always curious how in the world a 120mm AIO would do on these Ti cards. Not well behaved.

Custom loop will always be impressive haha.

But yeah in my mind the problem is more about the pump not really being powerfull than the rad size. That's often the problem for AIOs.

Usually my RTX clocks between 1890Mhz to 1935Mhz in games.

Yeah, the triple pack will cover it. Interesting about the GPU temps. I could run my Titan X Pascal overclocked to the limit and keep it under 54C on a 120mm radiator on the hottest day of the year. I was pretty stunned when I was breaking 50C on the full water MSI 2080 Ti Seahawk EK X with a stand alone 280mm custom loop. I had to redo the entire system to bring the temps down to my expectations. Now I max out in the high 40s (GPU temp) with mid 30s coolant temp in Summer. I was always curious how in the world a 120mm AIO would do on these Ti cards. Not well behaved.

Hey, I changed the thermal paste of my GPU and got way better temps (in the 60's degrees C).

I thought maybe you'd like to know.

Here is the full story with pictures of how the factory thermal paste looked like :

You can also see a picture with the LL120 instead of the Noctua fans, and it works perfectly now, no more issue with the commander. Thanks a lot for all the ideas and your answers :).

Well, I am glad that is better. If it is any consolation, my first MSI 2080 Ti Seahawk EK X did the same thing. Full water hitting 50-60C at 25C coolant temp. Nice seal on top threatening loss of warranty for opening it up, along with a tube of TIM. Sent it back. Next one was slightly better, but still too high. I did take that one apart and got better temps on remount, for 48 hours. Then it started having serious errors. Embarrassed I went for a third, but it did work as expected. At least until this week when the RGB started blinking in response to power load on the card.

Hopefully the Noctua 3000 rpm will continue to behave. I do not really know the exact nature of the issue, but it is often reported.

Hi, It's my first post here.

I have bought a Commander Pro but I had to RMA it because fan header #1 wasn't working. I'm currently waiting for the new one, but since I have to control a Noctua 140mm Industrial 3000rpm, I'd like to ask if the "controlling problem" arises even if I force "3 pin mode" for that fan (and so voltage controlled mode)

Thanks a lot

Federico

Thanks for the reply

I think I'm going to send back the 3000rpm to get the 2000rpm instead.

I was controlling the fan in PWM (I have to say with no particular issues) with the previous Commander Pro until the fan header went KO. I cannot say if things are related or not but I suspect yes

Federico

P.S. Is there an explanation for these controlling difficulties in PWM? I mean: a PWM signal is a PWM signal... what can possibly be different?

You had good control with the 3000 rpm before? That is interesting, but it puts you in the vast minority. I have used the NF-F12 and A14 2000 rpm industrials for several years without problems and I do think that is better fit for 99% of users. If you are not actively running in the 2200-3000 rpm range, then the extra potential is wasted. Even for those that can endure the higher noise, unless you have some very dense custom radiators or some really extreme direct cooling needs, it just doesn't make sense.

*One caveat to the 2000 PWM version is a few users have reported control issues on the Platinum series AIO coolers. As mentioned, I have used it on my Commander Pro for several years.

As for why this happens, I can't say and I am not an electrical engineer. However, one PWM signal is not always the same as another, even if there is a standard. The Noctua Industrial one I always find interesting because it has been limited to only the 3000 rpm model. Other fans like Vardar and BeQuiet PWM models have control issues across their model range.