NotoriouS1626866422

Picked up a the HS80 headphones 2 weeks ago to replace my VOID Elite (had no issues with it at all) to try out the Dolby Atmos vs. My VOID Elite's w/ Nahimic. My only complaint is the master/overall sound level of the HS80's vs. the VOID Elites. 200% difference between the two with the VOID's having a much better master volume. Using both headphones with the exact same windows, control panel & icue settings the HS80's just cant compete with the VOID Elite on overall sound volume. At max sound settings the HS80's sound like they are on 50% master volume with really sucks for a $140 headphones. Please don't confuse this with the surround sound of Dolby, that part is great. But its just to quiet overall at max settings. Its so low, in order to get the same volume loudness out of the HS80's, i had to install APO EQ software to boost it 13 db to equal what the VOID Elites can do with just icue & windows settings. So my question was just to see if anyone else ran into this from switching from the VOID's to the HS80's? I have the APO EQ dialed in so the "Master" volume is now good for me i just wans't expecting to run into this with my past Corsair headphones not needing 3rd party software and the price point the HS80's are at you wouldn't think you would need it. Also on a side note, With my VOID's i could walk all over my 2 story house and keep a connection while listening to music or a podcast or whatever. With the HS80's (plugged into the same port where i has my VOID's plugged into) I get about 3-31/2 feet of range from my PC. If i walk past this range it cuts out and lose the connection until i come back to within 3 feet of the tower. I do like the Dolby Atmos over the Nahimic i was using so like i said that part is really fantastic.

Both C-Attack and LeDoyen hit it on the head but i wanted to chime in too. You really shouldn't need to Pump/RES combos to achieve your temp goals but since you have them, nothing wrong with it. I run a 10900K with a 3090 Kingpin Hydro Copper on the same loop in a O11 Dynamic XL. I have two 360 RA's as well, one up top and the on the side. On the top one i have QL fans pushing as exhaust, pretty normal. On the side however, i removed 3 of my QL fans that were pulling air in left it bare and mounted my XD5 there. On the backside of that RAD i switched to some non RGB ML120 fans (2,400 RPM's the ML can achieve helps) (its on the back side so you cant see them anyway) to push cool air in. My GPU temp at idle is 19-20c, CPU is 23-24c at idle. Now it depends on what i am doing to determine my temps at load. Regular gaming, WWZ, CoD, Back 4 Blood etc CPU temps are 38-42c. GPU temps range from 30-42c. Benchmarking, R20 for ex, My CPU hits 56-59c. On say Heaven 4.0, My GPU hits 45-47c - these are stock clocks. I also want to point out i use custom profiles in iCue that i change on the fly by pressing a key. I have one for surfing, gaming & Benchmarking. Gaming and Benchmarking have more aggressive fan curves and pump speeds. And then finally, you might take a look at your VCORE. as C-Attack stated, you might need to look at that. While running R20 i had HWINFO open to see how much voltage i was pulling. Once done with that i gamed for a bit while leaving it open to see what my max vcore was and to my surprise at one point i pulled 1.3xxv, way to high for gaming. On R20 i was pulling 1.225v. Went into the BIOS to adjust my voltage (took time to "dial" it in between benching and gaming to see if i got any BSOD's) I settled on 1.200v and with this setting is how i achieve my temps on a MSI MEG Z490 ACE MB. No crashes, BSOD's or issues of any kind. I did do any AVX benching as i have no need for that crap lol, besides its not real world scenario for me as all i do is game and surf the interwebs. If you have any questions let me know.

UPDATE: the issue was the controller. Tried another one and all 6 rgb ports work on the new controller.

Brand new firing up this 5000T case and the RGB ports 4-6 does not work. Power ports 1-6 all work. Tried swapping each fan into the RGB ports 1-3 and each fan works. The fan that is plugged into rgb port 4 that is not working with rgb does have power just no rgb. I get a faulty controller?

I have the black 5000T. It's all black.

Thank you, that's what i was trying to do actually. Oh well no biggie. thanks for the reply.

Is it possible to sync the RGB to all fans that are controlled by 2 different commander core XT's? So i have 10 QL 120 fans in my case. 6 controlled by a stand a lone commander core XT and then the other 4 controlled by the commander core xt that came with my H150i Elite LCD AIO.

One quick thing to try is uncheck the "Show only connected devices" box. Then check it again and reboot.

I would clean the CPU and the cold plate on the pump and apply fresh thermal paste.

LOL! My Dude!! You already know i will LoL. Just going to run 1 pass on a few benchmarks on normal BIOS then skipping the OC BIOS and going straight to LN2 BIOS LoL. Got my window A/C unit out of the garage and rigging up to blow some "intercooled boost" into that KPE RAD LoL.

After reading your response i think i will stick with the XR5 radiator if i proceed with it. Another issue i didn't think about is pump placement. I was going to do push/pull on the side with the KPE radiator and i guess mount the loop RAD up top which means i will have to mount the pump on the bottom right fan, kinda makes your head hurt drawing all this up in your head. I'm running a 10900K however, The Kingpin has 3 different BIOS selections and each Bios has a different total wattage output. Normal BIOS 450W, OC BIOS 480W, LN2 BIOS 520W.

Sooo i have been thinking of jumping on the water loop bandwagon and i am about 80% in favor of giving it a whirl. So i'm looking at the hydro config tool and i think the only real question is for you custom loop experts is, would there be any gains of significance going with the XR7 54mm RAD instead of the XR5 30MM? Probably be looking at what, maybe like 5-7c temp at idle difference between the two or something like that? I have a Lian Li O11 Dynamic XL case. Another thing i have to consider on the RAD placement is that i have a RTX 3090 Kingpin on the way to me that has a 360 RAD attached to it as well so the GPU obviously will not be in the loop but i wanted to mount the RAD for it on the side as intake and mount the loop RAD up top with fans exhausting mounted to the bottom of that RAD. I also was going snag one of these off Amazon to make it easy to drain the thing, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07W826GV1/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 Thanks in advance for any pro tips on this.

Dear Corsair, The commander Core is a great new addition for those of us with OCD and now can get a all in one controller. Please make a standalone variant that can be sold separately in 2021. Please and thank you.

You want to keep the RAD higher than the pump as much as you can so i would mount it up top as exhaust but at the end of the day it's all preference. As far as wiring, i would recommend using the commander core since it is a all in one for fan & RGB control and keep in mind it was designed to be used with the CAPELLIX coolers. You can always hang on to your commander pro if you need it down the line or return it. Just my $0.02 cents

You have the USB cable from the pump connected to a USB header on your motherboard correct? And then you have your commander pro connected to a 2nd USB Header? Just confirming how you have everything connected. Assuming everything is connected properly, what i would try next is uninstalling icue and download the current version from Corsair and reinstall it (if you have not tried that already) Sorry, you didn't mention any steps you had tried so i wasn't sure what all steps you have taken so far.