H100i power question

The h100i has a sata power cable as well as a 3 pin power connection cable

 

 

Is it necessary to plug both of those in?

 

 

 

 

Also I am using different fans that didn't come with the h100i, 2 gentle typhoons 1450 rpm versions, is it okay to plug them into the h100i or should I rather instead use my psu to power them?

 

 

 

Someone mentioned to me if I were using after market fans it would be in my best interest to use the power supply or motherboard's 3 pin connectors instead of the ones on the h100i heatsink

Still looking for an answer if anyone could help

The h100i has a sata power cable as well as a 3 pin power connection cable

 

No the H100i has a SATA power cable and a 3-pin connector with one wire that just reports the pump RPM to the CPU_FAN header. You should use both.

 

Of our modern coolers, the H80i GT and H100i GTX support 1A total on the fan headers, while the H110i GT and GTX support 2A.

 

I think the H100i supports 2A total just like the H110iGT as it is also made by CoolIT and has a SATA power cable.

 

You should specify the URL to the gentle typhoon specifications.

All of the Gentle Typhoons have very low current draws. The 1450 model is somewhere around 0.05A per fan, so you have lots of headroom. However, there is a significant difference between the new H100i GTX and the prior Asetek model H100i. Despite the 1.0A rating for the that older H100i, you don't want to go above 0.8A or you will pay a price.

 

Also, I do believe your GT 1450's are 3 pin DC, so will have to use another power source (fan controller, PS directly, motherboard, etc.) to run those fans. The fan controller on the "i" and GT/X models needs 4 pin PWM fans. There are a few PWM Gentle Typhoons out there, but they are likely hard to find these days.

new H100i GTX and the prior Asetek model H100i. Despite the 1.0A rating for the that older H100i, you don't want to go above 0.8A or you will pay a price.

 

The H100i is CoolIT not Asetek. I also found the following in a thread titled Hydro H100i and Aftermarket Fans Advice Needed

 

The Max current is no more than 4 Amps total and no more than 2 Amps per fan header.

It is 4 Amps total on the fan controller for HXXXi series coolers and no more than 2 amps per header. And yes at 12 Volts that is 48 Watts.

 

 

I do wish Corsair would publish a summary table as it's far too hard to find this information.

My recollection was the older H80i/H100i were Asetek, but either way the referenced information is wrong and I know he said it twice. Trying to run anything close to 1.0A on those would be a mistake and there are hundreds of units with blown controllers to prove it. There is far too much evidence to suggest the controller on the old H80i/100i cannot handle those loads or is flawed in some other way that makes running high draw fans extraordinarily risky. Those same units are cited in other posts as having a 1.0A limit and one of the selling points of the new GTX was a beefed up controller "at 1.0A". It certainly is more durable since you don't see these pages littered with blown controller questions, but I don't think they strengthened it by halving the amperage. Yes, this information should be on the product specification page.

 

The original poster is drastically below that level and will have to run from his motherboard anyway, which also is likely to have a 1.0A limit. He won't need to resolve this to operate safely.

My recollection was the older H80i/H100i were Asetek.

 

No they are definitely CoolIT. For openers the both the H100i + H80i have 4 x fan controllers and a C-Link port so there is no way they can be Asetek. They are also HID devices just like the H110iGT + CLCC. My code also uses the same CoolIT protocol for all of the H80i + H100i + H110i + H1i0iGT + CLCC.

 

The H100i get's it's power from a SATA cable and the 3-pin connector only has the tachometer wire.

 

It's possible WoKeN has a H110iGTX rather than a H100i, but that does not have a SATA power cable, so I guess it's a H100i.

 

I suspect you know far more about currents then me. Maybe we should generate table and get Corsair to put it in a sticky.

 

Do you think the issues could have been down to 3-pin voltage rather than 4-pin PWM fans being used?

Yes, surely you're right that it is CoolIT. Besides the other clues, the dead give away is the squarish features.

 

It is possible some of people with blown controllers were running 3 pin DC, but how many of those fans at 12V would exceed that current limit per channel? It's pretty hard to find an enthusiast class fan that exceeds 0.50A. You typically need to look at fans that are part of the commercial market before you start getting that high.

 

I blew my first H80i with a Nidec of that type. It was rated at 1.15A and I somewhat ignorantly plugged it in by itself. It only lasted a few restarts. Support told me to keep it under 1.0A total and kindly sent me another H80i. That one lasted 6 months before two x 0.45A fans brought it down with the same issue. In the interim, the controller on a H100i on another machine went with only 0.80A on the fans. Now whether it is the controller per se or another link in the chain leading to it, I don't know and I didn't take them apart myself to inspect. But either way, it is absolutely a situation where more current is more risk to that weak spot and all three retained their pump operation. Only the fan controller and LED lighting was effected.

 

I don't know how much I can add to the table. Most of my knowledge comes from the same scraps you see as well on this site. I think the safe limit for an H80i/100i is somewhere around 0.80A, which should cover most high RPM LED 120mm fans. For the newer models I only have the one source of 1.0A for H80 GT and 100 GTX with the 280mm H110 GT, GTX, and now H115i rated for 2.0A. That seems a reasonable guideline, but someone from Corsair really does need to put a definitive list in the stickies.

dead give away is the squarish features.

 

For me it's the protocol my code uses:biggrin:. Can you improve on http://forum.corsair.com/forums/showthread.php?p=839688 please?

 

Just having a list of all possible coolers will be good as this may ensure posts specify the cooler they actually have.

No, I can't add much to that. The per channel amperage is key. It's too often given as a total, which isn't helpful for those that haven't memorized the number of internal fan controllers on each unit. And hopefully, people will be sensible and realize you can't run right to the limit without risk.