K95 RGB White Base Plate Cover Mod

I would love to get one of these professionally cut from plastic. I wonder if a shop like this would take on the job?

 

http://smidgensinc.com/

Might be able to ask them. It looks like they should be able to do it (from a glance at work). Ask what type of file they would use to cut these from. I would assume Illustrator, but that's just what I use.

It might be a bit pricey to do that I recommend getting a scalpel there only like 20-30 at most and a metal ruler. I'll upload a few pictures of my one later, also if you have some trouble fitting the pieces after you have the correct size I found separating the keypad and the 18 macro keys works well. Use glue if you want the paper to stick to the keyboard base well, also go for a thicker paper so it is more reflective

This is good advice. It's exactly how I made my first one from paper before I learned the laser cutter. The G keys are tough to place correctly because they don't line up with the rest of the rows on the keyboard. Most of the error in my design is probably around the G keys.

Also - about the glue.. I would recommend using something you can get off the keyboard in case you need to RMA. Maybe put down some painters tape on the board first and glue to that. The point of this mod was to keep the board under warranty while making it look better. It's your board though, so do what you want with it :)

This is good advice. It's exact how I made my first one from paper before I learned the laser cutter. The G keys are tough to place correctly because they don't line up with the rest of the rows on the keyboard. Most of the error in my design is probably around the G keys.

 

Also - about the glue.. I would recommend using something you can get off the keyboard in case you need to RMA. Maybe put down some painters tape on the board first and glue to that. The point of this mod was to keep the board under warantee while making it look better. It's your board though, so do what you want with it :)

Do you think the base plate could be 3D printed? We have an (relatively cheap) 3D printer at school, and I think I am allowed to use it (I've used the modelling program before). But, I think the print must be 3-5mm thick to have a bit of strength.

To be clear; I don't own the K95 RGB yet, so I have no idea at what height the keykaps are when they are pressed in. I hope somebody could measure this for me, so I can start working on the model. I want to order an vengeance K95 RGB with brown switches, and I've been promised by Corsair that it will come in Q4 of 2015. I want to have the print ready by then if possible.

Could somebody confirm that 3-5mm can fit under the pressed keycap? That would be amazing!

Thanks

~ML

Do you think the base plate could be 3D printed? We have an (relatively cheap) 3D printer at school, and I think I am allowed to use it (I've used the modelling program before). But, I think the print must be 3-5mm thick to have a bit of strength.

 

To be clear; I don't own the K95 RGB yet, so I have no idea at what height the keykaps are when they are pressed in. I hope somebody could measure this for me, so I can start working on the model. I want to order an vengeance K95 RGB with brown switches, and I've been promised by Corsair that it will come in Q4 of 2015. I want to have the print ready by then if possible.

 

Could somebody confirm that 3-5mm can fit under the pressed keycap? That would be amazing!

 

Thanks

 

 

~ML

I believe it can be 3D printed. The clearance between a pressed keycap and the aluminum plate is 1/16th of an inch - 1.588 mm, so 3 or 5 mm is definitely way too big. The plate does not need to be strong at all. What resolution does your 3D printer print at? I'm thinking 1 mm would be good enough. The keyboard cover is supported by the aluminum plate and the keys pretty well. you just don't want your model to fall apart while moving it.

Anyways, I have not used this design with a 3D printer. It was designed for laser cutting, which has a kerf of 1/1000 of an inch. I think if you 3D print it then it might be too tight, but I dont know of anyone that has tried this yet. If you want to try it, please let us know if 3D printing using this drawing works or not.

I believe it can be 3D printed. The clearance between a pressed keycap and the aluminum plate is 1/16th of an inch - 1.588 mm, so 3 or 5 mm is definitely way too big. The plate does not need to be strong at all. What resolution does your 3D printer print at? I'm thinking 1 mm would be good enough. The keyboard cover is supported by the aluminum plate and the keys pretty well. you just don't want your model to fall apart while moving it.

 

Anyways, I have not used this design with a 3D printer. It was designed for laser cutting, which has a kerf of 1/1000 of an inch. I think if you 3D print it then it might be too tight, but I dont know of anyone that has tried this yet. If you want to try it, please let us know if 3D printing using this drawing works or not.

Ok, that is waaay tighter then I thought. I know it doesnt have to be strong to stay under the keyboard, but the 3D printer at school will print to an strange base, which will make the plastic stick to it. I think it will break when I print only 1 layer, but maybe the printer can go thinner. Need to have a look at the software again (last used it over a year ago ;)). I'll keep you up-to-date on how it works out.

~ML

Ok, that is waaay tighter then I thought. I know it doesnt have to be strong to stay under the keyboard, but the 3D printer at school will print to an strange base, which will make the plastic stick to it. I think it will break when I print only 1 layer, but maybe the printer can go thinner. Need to have a look at the software again (last used it over a year ago ;)). I'll keep you up-to-date on how it works out.

 

~ML

Well, if you think cm instead of mm, then a 5 mm clearance would be half a centimeter!

I know I have printed things 1/16" thick before. They were small coins, and seemed pretty strong. Post pictures if you get the chance to 3D print this! I know others wanted to 3D print it in the past, so they might be interested in a model that's confirmed working too!

Well, if you think cm instead of mm, then a 5 mm clearance would be half a centimeter!

I know I have printed things 1/16" thick before. They were small coins, and seemed pretty strong. Post pictures if you get the chance to 3D print this! I know others wanted to 3D print it in the past, so they might be interested in a model that's confirmed working too!

I know the printer should be able to get the job done, but I'm not sure if I can get the print off of the printing base. I'll have to try.

I still need to make the whole thing in solid edge, since it's being an doosh and doesnt want to import your files xD

Oh well, I still need to ask the teacher if I'm allowed to use it again for this project, since they probably need to leave the printer running during night...

I'll keep you up to date as usual :)

~ML

I know that Google sketchup can import .dwg files (though I think it was removed recently, you would have to find an older version)

If the printer takes .stl files, that might be easier than rebuilding the whole thing. Though, rebuilding the model shouldn't take too long either. The hard part was measuring the spacing :P

Good luck :) if I can help at all feel free to PM me or post here if you think others can benefit from the question/solution

I know that Google sketchup can import .dwg files (though I think it was removed recently, you would have to find an older version)

If the printer takes .stl files, that might be easier than rebuilding the whole thing. Though, rebuilding the model shouldn't take too long either. The hard part was measuring the spacing :P

Good luck :) if I can help at all feel free to PM me or post here if you think others can benefit from the question/solution

I have to measure all the things again with illustrator, because they need to be extremely exact... Yaay :D. The measuring is the hardest part. I've printed out the paper version to write my measurements on. Since I HAVE to cut the print in 3 pieces, I decided that I'm going to try to print the G-key's first, since they are (relatively) easy to measure, and can be used as a good test-print in my opinion. I have school in a few hours, so I can hopefully confirm today that I'm allowed to use the printer :roll:

Do you know of an easier way to measure all the things out then to have to draw the guidelines for all of the keys? I'm not that skilled with illustrator (lol, I didn't even have it before this xD).

~ML

I have to measure all the things again with illustrator, because they need to be extremely exact... Yaay :D. The measuring is the hardest part. I've printed out the paper version to write my measurements on. Since I HAVE to cut the print in 3 pieces, I decided that I'm going to try to print the G-key's first, since they are (relatively) easy to measure, and can be used as a good test-print in my opinion. I have school in a few hours, so I can hopefully confirm today that I'm allowed to use the printer :roll:

 

Do you know of an easier way to measure all the things out then to have to draw the guidelines for all of the keys? I'm not that skilled with illustrator (lol, I didn't even have it before this xD).

 

~ML

I have the models already in illustrator. Would that help?

I also have .DWG files. If you're going to a U.S. college you can get AutoCAD for free for 3 years (educational license)

Both the illustrator and AutoCAD files have the exact dimentions and can be measured in the applications.

Would those files help?

Is there a version for the eu lay out of k95?

Unfortunately, no. I don't have a EU layout k95 so I can't measure the switch positions :(

Sorry about that

Any version for K65 RGB US layout :D. So awesome if we have K65 version :D

I could guess the dimensions. What about printing the K70 RGB version and cutting off the excess material? Quick fix.

I'll get to making files for the K65 RGB this weekend (though I can't test fit it since I don't have a K65 RGB)

Thank you for layout file. :D:

http://upic.me/i/x2/12248753_917992888292106_1704086360_n.jpg

Sorry about the lack of an official k65 template. :(

The only relevant difference between the k70 and k65 here is that the k65 is missing the numberpad. The consequence of this difference is that the k70 layout files work fine, but need the number pad trimmed off. I don't own a k65, so in order to make a unique k65 template, I would have to guess where the right edge of the K65 is... I'd rather not guess and get it wrong and waste people's time :/

Determining the left edge of the k70 was easy - the material underneath the added G keys on the k95 is plastic and not aluminum, so I measured to the edge of the aluminum. If there's a similar way I could find the right side of the k65 using my k95, I would be happy to make "Jkraghify official" k65 layout files :)

Regarding your issues with the paper crumbling, you have a few options.

• Use thicker paper (make sure it's safe for your printer)
  
• Use a sharper blade (I used xacto knives initially)
  
• Make all the horizontal cuts and then do the vertical cuts (the keys are all aligned horizontally, so this should make the process faster, especially if you use a ruler or other straight edge to guide you. Just be careful to not cut yourself while holding the straight edge)
  

If anyone else that has cut this out of paper could offer any other advice, please do! Keep in mind that you can use any color paper too!

Hey Guys! Just received my new K70 to Christmas, 8 hours ago ^^

.. and I had to add this awesome mod!

Basically I started with this:

http://i.imgur.com/qDNIlo7m.jpg

I used an old calendar to cut two A4 pages. After that I printed both PDFs and started cutting:

http://i.imgur.com/8meT9Yim.jpg

Perhaps the best part of all, removing the squares: ;)

http://i.imgur.com/sLpkOgrm.jpg

I'm using the K70-German version and had to modify some keys:

http://i.imgur.com/ky7Zurxm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/Qd0P6H0m.jpg

Assembling all together:

http://i.imgur.com/qILcOSTm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/AOe6yfnm.jpg http://i.imgur.com/IrRe8Rvm.jpg

The switches are holding the paper perfectly!

http://i.imgur.com/ATQ8yYxm.jpg

Hi Guys! HAPPY NEW YEAR!!!!!!

so i've been readin thru the pages, and WOW your setups look awesome.

What do you guys think about printing on a Mirror Finish Sticker?

OR maybe even a Brush Aluminium finish sticker?

and the only thing i'm unsure of now, is which is the right files to use? (dropbox? or the individual postings) for a K70?

The dropbox and files posted here are exactly the same. I have more control over what is uploaded to the dropbox though, so you can't go wrong there.

I have tried using a mirror finish and it had what I would call an interesting but undesirable effect. The LEDs did not diffuse and shown onto the sides of the neighboring keycaps. I've not tried a brushed aluminum version because the KXX keyboards have brushed aluminum plates already. I guess you could try with a different color of aluminum... If you want to do your own custom machining make sure you use a material no more than 1/16" thick or it will interfere with the keycaps.