New to AIO, H100i v2 with i7-8700k stock speed prime95 over 80c

New to AIO, H100i v2 with i7-8700k stock speed prime95 over 80c

 

I am new to AIO, so wanna check whether this is normal.

 

Room temp is around 16~20c temp

Case is 460x, radiator mount at front

CPU using stock speed, MCE enabled

 

Boot up water pump temp around 30c

 

Using Prime95 stress test it reach to ~83c(performance mode) ~86(quite mode)

 

I have a pump issue at very beginning, the temp suddenly went over 80c during casual work. Pump temp over 40c. So I reapply the pump head with new thermal paste then do the prime95 test with result post above.

 

Just wanna make sure I am right this time.

 

Thanks in advanced!

Make sure the motherboard header powering the H100i v2 is set to 100% or disabled. 30C sounds too high for non load. What is the pump speed right now? It should be about 2000 rpm for balanced.

The test was done yesterday, today during morning, the pump start up at 25c with room temp around 18. Then after 10 minutes bootup time, it reach to 30c and stable. CPU package temp is ~35c idle time. And using quite mode, I can’t remember the rpm for pump, but I think its around 1800rpm

 

The cpu header is making sure 12V all the time.

OK, that sounds more like what I was expecting and 1800-2000 rpm is within the normal variance for the Balanced setting.

 

So, the cooler seems to be working properly. If you don't like the 83-86C number, you need to do a few things. 1) Turn off MCE. 2) Read the Asus OC guide, in particular the part about IA/DC load line level. 3) Probably not run Prime 95 unless you are actually hunting Mersenne factors. It's not good for the ego.

 

http://edgeup.asus.com/2017/kaby-lake-overclocking-guide/

 

This is for Z270, but it is effectively the same. The load line information is at the bottom of page 3. It is somewhat technical and it is not necessary to understand it all, but it should give you some idea of the issues in play.

OK, that sounds more like what I was expecting and 1800-2000 rpm is within the normal variance for the Balanced setting.

 

So, the cooler seems to be working properly. If you don't like the 83-86C number, you need to do a few things. 1) Turn off MCE. 2) Read the Asus OC guide, in particular the part about IA/DC load line level. 3) Probably not run Prime 95 unless you are actually hunting Mersenne factors. It's not good for the ego.

 

http://edgeup.asus.com/2017/kaby-lake-overclocking-guide/

 

This is for Z270, but it is effectively the same. The load line information is at the bottom of page 3. It is somewhat technical and it is not necessary to understand it all, but it should give you some idea of the issues in play.

 

 

 

Thanks a lot!

Part of the issue is that Prime95 makes heavy use of AVX instructions. These run super-hot on Sky/Kaby/Coffee Lake processors (hence the introduction of the AVX offset for overclocking).

That said, > 80C is probably to be expected for a Prime95 session, especially if your chip hasn't been delidded. Intel's thermal paste sucks.

Thanks, I did some further test with other stress test, the pump seems to works fine.

I have a Ryzen 5 2600X and I use a custom fan curve on my H100i v2. 40% FAN SPEED when water over 40C... (1500 RPM) and Quiet Pump mode (~1980 RPM).

 

Idle after 15 minutes desktop is 35C

Full load 1 Hour AIDA64 is 75C Average (H100i water temp 43C)

Gaming 1 Hour 53C average

 

I stopped using Prime95 years ago. Just AIDA64 now personally.

 

C.

I have a Ryzen 5 2600X and I use a custom fan curve on my H100i v2. 40% FAN SPEED when water over 40C... (1500 RPM) and Quiet Pump mode (~1980 RPM).

 

Idle after 15 minutes desktop is 35C

Full load 1 Hour AIDA64 is 75C Average (H100i water temp 43C)

Gaming 1 Hour 53C average

 

I stopped using Prime95 years ago. Just AIDA64 now personally.

 

C.

 

I'd be concerned about that water temp; it seems a little high. What is your ambient temperature? Is your radiator intake or exhaust? If exhaust, what's the internal case temperature?

I'd be concerned about that water temp; it seems a little high. What is your ambient temperature? Is your radiator intake or exhaust? If exhaust, what's the internal case temperature?

 

It's Summer here in Canada. Room temp is 25C.

 

Radiator is TOP mounted (fans between case and Rad) in a Corsair Carbide 400C case set up to exhaust out the top through the screen. Fans set to run 40% or 45% as the MAX speed when water is over 40C.

 

Front of case has 2 AF140MM Corsair Fans as INTAKE. (Set to 840 RPM)

 

Rear of case is a Corsair ML120 120MM Fan as Exhaust out the back. Set to (1200 RPM).

 

Video card puts out a TON of heat. Asus ROG Strix RX 580 OC edition. I can cook an egg on the back plate when gaming.

 

Charles.

It's Summer here in Canada. Room temp is 25C.

 

Radiator is TOP mounted (fans between case and Rad) in a Corsair Carbide 400C case set up to exhaust out the top through the screen. Fans set to run 40% or 45% as the MAX speed when water is over 40C.

 

Front of case has 2 AF140MM Corsair Fans as INTAKE. (Set to 840 RPM)

 

Rear of case is a Corsair ML120 120MM Fan as Exhaust out the back. Set to (1200 RPM).

 

Video card puts out a TON of heat. Asus ROG Strix RX 580 OC edition. I can cook an egg on the back plate when gaming.

 

Charles.

 

So your internal case temperature is going to be high. This will actually warm up your coolant if it's higher than the coolant temperature.

 

I understand the desire for low fan speeds but you need to let them increase as your load (and resulting temperatures) increase. Otherwise you won't be able to move the heat out of the system fast enough. And with your configuration, I don't think that there's anywhere near enough airflow at load to keep the system at a reasonable temperature, regardless of the room temperature.

 

I'm gonna guess that the air coming out the back is quite warm as well, yes?

So your internal case temperature is going to be high. This will actually warm up your coolant if it's higher than the coolant temperature.

 

I understand the desire for low fan speeds but you need to let them increase as your load (and resulting temperatures) increase. Otherwise you won't be able to move the heat out of the system fast enough. And with your configuration, I don't think that there's anywhere near enough airflow at load to keep the system at a reasonable temperature, regardless of the room temperature.

 

I'm gonna guess that the air coming out the back is quite warm as well, yes?

 

Yup the top and rear air exhaust is definitely warm when gaming. Not so much when just "processing" or working.

 

Note: I did try the radiator front mounted (it is sexier that way) as an intake and moved the 140's to the top. CPU was 3 - 5 C cooler under Aida 64. Water was a few degrees cooler as well. But when gaming... The Strix would spin up the fans something awful. It did not like the warm intake. Top exhaust worked best in terms of balance.

 

Honestly. Set to the default profile, CPU and Water were cooler. Yup. But... Then I was not happy with the audio from the cooler which is why I lowered the max fan speed to 1500 RPM under load.

 

Would there be a more quiet model if I sold this? I like cooling. 2600X boosts higher the cooler I get it. With performance mode on the H100i, it will auto boost to 4.2 - 4.25 on all cores the whole time I am in PUBG. With 1500 RPM it is half the decibels but boosting only an average 4.125 GHz.

 

Charles.

Right now, the biggest thing that I think you need to do is increase the intake of cool air from the outside. What's the max speed on those AF fans? Do you have a Commander Pro? If so, you can use the thermistors on that to control fan speeds based on internal case temperature, which will be a much better control variable than your CPU. If not ... see what your motherboard has available. Some motherboards actually have a connector for a thermistor (you don't have your system specs listed in your profile so I don't know if yours does ... hint hint) that would allow you to do the same thing.

Right now, the biggest thing that I think you need to do is increase the intake of cool air from the outside. What's the max speed on those AF fans? Do you have a Commander Pro? If so, you can use the thermistors on that to control fan speeds based on internal case temperature, which will be a much better control variable than your CPU. If not ... see what your motherboard has available. Some motherboards actually have a connector for a thermistor (you don't have your system specs listed in your profile so I don't know if yours does ... hint hint) that would allow you to do the same thing.

 

Ahh...

 

Not sure on fan max speed for these. I was using SMART FAN mode on my motherboard. I can assign % speed based on CPU temp like you said. I will have to look into that thermistor.

 

Corsair Carbide 400C (with all them sweet fans) (1x120 and 2x140)

MSI X370 Gaming Pro Carbon motherboard

Ryzen 2600X with 16GB Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR 3200 CL16 RAM

ASUS Rog Strix RX 580 OC 8GB

Samsung 250 GB and 500 GB SSD's

Coolermaster 650 Watt modular PSU

 

C.

If you can click "Edit System Specs" at the top and put that info in there, it'd be cool. It keeps it handy when questions come up.

 

It doesn't look like your motherboard has a connector for a thermistor. :(

 

Using CPU temp for chassis cooling fans isn't appropriate for a water-cooled system; your CPU isn't dumping waste heat into the system case. It's actually putting it into the coolant and then it's getting exhausted. The next thing to do is look and see if any additional onboard temperature sensors would be appropriate ... something to give you an indication of when things are heating up inside the case. Because that's what you really need to worry about cooling with the case fans, not the CPU.

 

Or, of course, a Commander Pro.

OK, so 25C room temp. That likely means 30-32C idle coolant temperature (H100i v2 Temp) 15 minutes after boot. From there, a +10C rise in coolant temp on a 8 core CPU and 240mm radiator is not completely out of the question. Normally, I would put this at +6-8C, but I don't have enough data about the 2700x to work it into my normal variances yet. 1500 rpm is about my limit for 120mm fans on a radiator as well and I don't see the point in going higher to pull back 1C of coolant temp.

 

I am not sure how much more you can gain by air exchange until you demonstrate the case temps are really out of whack. It might help during gaming. It should not matter for AIDA. The key areas to keep an eye on are:

 

1) Room temp to resting coolant temp - If you start to see more than +7C, that might suggest your case air balance or something else is not quite right.

 

2) More than a +8-10C coolant gain on pure CPU tests. That is a touch high, but again I would like to see more 2700X owners data. Coolant delta is likely highest when gaming, with both CPU and GPU waste heat in play. It can be hard to separate them, but if you are seeing much higher temps, that also might suggest more airflow is needed from the front.

I'd be concerned about that water temp; it seems a little high. What is your ambient temperature? Is your radiator intake or exhaust? If exhaust, what's the internal case temperature?

 

I do know I am running a fairly silent profile and that affects things here. Still 10C cooler than the Wraith Spire that shipped with this thing. :)

 

BTW - I remounted the thing. Switched from Gelid GC Extreme paste back to my Arctic Silver. Dropped a few degrees! I did not think that would happen. I expected Gelid to be the better of the two.

 

Checked Ambient just now - 25C

H100i Fan is set to 1140 RPM ATM. Sooo quiet.

H100i Water Temp 34C

CPU Temp 36C

 

1 Hour of PUBG...

H100i Fan ramps to 1380 RPM (I use 40% in the curve when water rises beyond 40C).

H100i Water Temp 43C - 44C

CPU Temp 52C

 

I can switch to the DEFAULT profile which is noticeably louder and everyhting is about 2C cooler. Not worth it IMO. Unless you think I am hurting the AIO in some way?

 

C.

OK, so 25C room temp. That likely means 30-32C idle coolant temperature (H100i v2 Temp) 15 minutes after boot. From there, a +10C rise in coolant temp on a 8 core CPU and 240mm radiator is not completely out of the question. Normally, I would put this at +6-8C, but I don't have enough data about the 2700x to work it into my normal variances yet. 1500 rpm is about my limit for 120mm fans on a radiator as well and I don't see the point in going higher to pull back 1C of coolant temp.

 

I am not sure how much more you can gain by air exchange until you demonstrate the case temps are really out of whack. It might help during gaming. It should not matter for AIDA. The key areas to keep an eye on are:

 

1) Room temp to resting coolant temp - If you start to see more than +7C, that might suggest your case air balance or something else is not quite right.

 

2) More than a +8-10C coolant gain on pure CPU tests. That is a touch high, but again I would like to see more 2700X owners data. Coolant delta is likely highest when gaming, with both CPU and GPU waste heat in play. It can be hard to separate them, but if you are seeing much higher temps, that also might suggest more airflow is needed from the front.

 

I also like 1500 RPM. I think that is 45%. I sometimes use that setting in my profile for water over 40C. I also see that Gamers Nexus uses that as a reference point on this AIO when testing against the competition as a good balance of cooling and acoustics.

 

My only complaint so far is the CPU temp has not been reported correctly by LYNC for months and still not fixed for Ryzen.

 

No worries though I use MSI afterburner which is correct to display that in game in small fonts in the corner.

 

Charles.

I would probably put the small temp change post TIM swap down to 1) new TIM or 2) better application. There isn't much difference between the various TIM and for what it's worth, when I did a really extensive GELID comparison last year. It beat everyone's favorite Kryonaut stuff by 1-2C consistently over a 1 year period of data.

 

The part that is bothering me a little is the +9C over ambient idle and the +10C gaming. GPU heat could account for some of the gaming range, but the idle is still high. I would check on those ratios every now and then to make sure it isn't slipping further. +2-3C above the expected is not crippling, but keep an eye on things.

 

The part that is bothering me a little is the +9C over ambient idle and the +10C gaming. GPU heat could account for some of the gaming range, but the idle is still high. I would check on those ratios every now and then to make sure it isn't slipping further. +2-3C above the expected is not crippling, but keep an eye on things.

 

I had been watching YouTube for about a half an hour and doing emails before I checking those numbers and before that the computer was on all day. What's the process for properly checking those ratios? Cold boot and wait 15 minutes or something? Don't touch anything?

 

C.

There really isn't one. I tell people cold boot when I think the problem is very serious or if there are other considerations like highly variable room temps or 980 Ti SLI, etc. That is part of why I give a range. Most people will be +3-4 on cold boot by the time Link/iCUE loads up. Then it probably ticks up a few more degrees over the next 15-60 minutes and things like your C-States/EIST, Windows power plan, and definitely number of cores come into the play.

 

It is the last one that is making me cautious. The 2600x and 2700x processors are new. At 95 TPD and 6 cores, I would expect the 2600x to have similar characteristics to my 8700K. I've been up and running for 15 minutes. Coolant is +3 over ambient. After a long day with lots of uptime, it may be more like +5-7C. However, my 280mm radiator gives me a bit of an advantage. 4C worth? I am not sure. In another 2700x thread, I noticed the power draw during a CPU only load test was in the 230W range. That's pretty big for a "105W CPU". I don't have a handle on the idle behavior or effective wattage for your CPU and that makes this anything but a hard science. However, the situation should not be dynamic and that is why I suggest taking stock every few weeks. If those values get worse, that may suggest the cooler is loosing its edge. It could also be this is totally normal for a 2600x. Ah, the fun of being a product pioneer!

There really isn't one. I tell people cold boot when I think the problem is very serious or if there are other considerations like highly variable room temps or 980 Ti SLI, etc. That is part of why I give a range. Most people will be +3-4 on cold boot by the time Link/iCUE loads up. Then it probably ticks up a few more degrees over the next 15-60 minutes and things like your C-States/EIST, Windows power plan, and definitely number of cores come into the play.

 

It is the last one that is making me cautious. The 2600x and 2700x processors are new. At 95 TPD and 6 cores, I would expect the 2600x to have similar characteristics to my 8700K. I've been up and running for 15 minutes. Coolant is +3 over ambient. After a long day with lots of uptime, it may be more like +5-7C. However, my 280mm radiator gives me a bit of an advantage. 4C worth? I am not sure. In another 2700x thread, I noticed the power draw during a CPU only load test was in the 230W range. That's pretty big for a "105W CPU". I don't have a handle on the idle behavior or effective wattage for your CPU and that makes this anything but a hard science. However, the situation should not be dynamic and that is why I suggest taking stock every few weeks. If those values get worse, that may suggest the cooler is loosing its edge. It could also be this is totally normal for a 2600x. Ah, the fun of being a product pioneer!

 

Ok cool. I am posting this to check it again sometime down the road. This morning...

 

30 Minutes after cold boot left at idle.

 

Room temp - 23C

CPU Temp - 29C

AIO Temp - 29.6C

Fan Speed of AIO - 1080

Pump Speed - 1920

 

For interest sake...

 

System is pulling 70 watts Idle from wall.

Under CPU only Load using CPUZ "Stress CPU" it is 164 watts.

 

Aside from AIO there is an X370 motherboard. 2 SSD's and 1 HDD, 2600X CPU, 16GB RAM, 2 140mm fans and 1 120mm fans and 1 RX580 Video. HyperX FPS Powered Keyboard.

 

Hmmm... I wonder what that other user was STRESSING the CPU with on that 2700X? If you use blender that stresses more than the CPU. Same goes for Cinebench and others. Aida64 you have to select CPU only by unchecking FPU, Cache and RAM or you use stuff beyond the CPU itself.