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SP2200 Crackling


genious 7

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Well, what can I say, my SP2200 is exhibiting crackling noises. The issue is that I live in Panama, and paying shipping won't justify itself. What I want to know is what is the cause of this.

 

I mean, the ROOT cause of it, as this is obviously not the first issue of this kind. Please tell me what the most common real issue is; external or internal. Please don't tell me check connectors and RMA; I know how to solder and am willing to open the speakers up if a known cause exists.

 

(Yea, I know it rules out the warranty, but for the cost of shipping, I'm better off repairing them myself or buying others.)

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  • Corsair Employee

Please check all the connections on the back of the SUB. Pay close attention to the 13 PIN DIM connection. Make sure it is all the way in, and also check for any dust or obstructions.

 

Does it make the noise all the time?

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Yes, it does make the crackling randomly, both connected and unconnected to an audio source.

 

The connector is all the way in, and (under a simple visual inspection) there is no visible dust or obstructions of any kind.

 

Answering other things you might will ask: no, there is no router/cellphone/wireless thing/power cables running besides the speaker cable. Yes, my electricity is ok, it goes to a power filter, and yes, I tried both with and without it.

 

Is the most common problem caused by a defective connector? Or what is the most common cause for the crackling issue. I don't mind if it is not user serviceable, I want to know what is wrong.

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I'm in the same situation with my SP2200 speakers and can't RMA due to shipping. After finding out the crackling with these speakers is a common problem I was going to throw them out and purchase something else. Instead I bought a cheap 17v power brick off ebay to see if that made a difference...........no more crackling!

 

2 mins later it was crackling again, I got mad and pushed my thumb through the left speaker, problem solved:)

 

Anyway, good luck!

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I think I may have advanced somewhat. I don't know if I'm just getting lucky for the last few minutes, or having the speakers at max volume and lowering the volume via software solves the left speaker crackling issue. Can anyone confirm?

 

If so, it would mean the problem is in the potentiometer, not in the contact. It would mean it is fixable. Can anyone with the left speaker issue confirm? Just plug it in an ipod/pc; lower the volume via software, crank the volume to the top on the speaker, and hear if the issue persists. The speakers must be plugged to something, don't just disconnect if from the pc and then crank the volume.

 

@Ram Guy

 

I'm sure you must have some defective SP2200 somewhere. Could you test my theory please if you have time? I know this kind of troubleshooting isn't exactly what you are paid for, but as a favor.

 

Edit: Having the volume at max does seem to help. I could successfully play a complete "League of Legends" game without hearing a single crackle; and watched half of Lord of the Rings after it. To confirm, I reduced the volume halfway and the crackling reappeared. As I said, this would suggest the problem does not lie on the 13 Pin connector but elsewhere, in the volume potentiometer. I'll do some disassembly and update this thread with results just in case someone is curious. I would still like somebody else with the issue to confirm though. And yea, I know I'll be voiding my warranty, but for the cost of shipping, so be it.

 

Second Edit: Right now my speakers do not want to crackle, so if someone with crackly speakers have time, I would gladly appreciate if he/she could check if the crackling is present while using headphones connected on the Aux port.

 

Third Edit: Seems something I touched during disassembly magically fixed the problem. I can't get it to crackle anymore; tried moving every connector, piece, capacitors; but the issue does not want to arise anymore. Hmm, dunno, it fixed itself; although I know that those things that fix themselves will unfix someday. Anyways, I would still like to know out of curiosity the answers to the two questions above.

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@genious 7

I also have the same left speaker problem, maxing the volume sometimes fixes the problem, but there are times crackling persists also in max volume, using a headphone plugged in the speaker also reproduces the crackling in the left headphone, didn't tried plugging in aux, ill try it today at home.

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That's great news (that the crackle is present in the headphone jack), which means that the problem is located in the right speaker circuit board, instead of on the sub woofer or left speaker.

 

I did a visual analysis of that circuit board yesterday and I can confirm that the issue must be there due to the fact that the headphone amplifier is fed from the audio input through there after several rc filters.

 

I still don't know which part is defective; it could be either the potentiometer or a capacitor; not many pieces there besides those. Since my speaker stopped crackling for the moment, I cannot perform more analysis until the crackling reappears.

 

I repeat my question: does anyone at corsair over there know what is the faulty / missing piece?

 

Evidence of Claims for the technically inclined

 

There are only three integrated circuits on the right speaker circuit board; two voltage regulators (5v and 12v) and the headphone amplifier (TPA122). The headphone amplifier has only three signals that would affect both the headphones and the speakers; the input signals or the supply voltage. Any of the other 5 pins would only affect the headphone, not the speakers. Ill check when I can the stability of the voltage at the regulators, if stable, it would mean either a capacitor, the potentiometer, or a resistor of the input stage is damaged/missing/wrong value.

 

Anyways, Ill share my discoveries as I make them; maybe I'll find a DIY fix it route.

 

Edit: I have confirmed that the issue is either in the potentiometer or in the input filters, as the output after the potentiometers goes straight to the headphone amplifier (through C24 & R25 for one side and C14 & R15 for the other channel). I'll try to find what is different between the left and right input filter; as some difference must cause the problem, as soon as I rule out the volume potentiometer. The headphone amplifier section is flawless, as I compared it with the application circuit on the datasheet and it is identical (with the addition of R24 and R41)

 

Second Edit: Memo to self and to other people with crackling speakers: check if crackling is duplicated in the subwoofer.

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After further analysis, I think I have half the puzzle figured out. The crackling appears mostly at mid volume settings (check, it is almost nonexistent for low and high volumes.) This is due to the audio impedance being the highest at that level.

 

I still haven't figured what causes the crackling; there is a slim possibility of the contact after all, although I still think the issue must be on the volume control board; I can't imagine all the left speaker contacts of everybody failing while everything else stays the same.

 

Btw the sound is reproduced in the subwoofer because the split of the signal (between satellites and subwoofer) happens after the signal has passed through all the volume control (in fact, the crossover is located at the subwoofer, then the signal returns to the bass control pot at the speaker, and then it goes again to the subwoofer.).

 

The voltage sources are perfect, a stable 5v and 12v respectively. The impendance of the audio (which varies on the volume knob position) definitely has an effect on the amount of crackling; Ill investigate this some more by checking the subwoofer side of the circuit to get the full picture.

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I said it once and I say it again: Shipping wont justify itself. Besides, I might have a clue on how to fix it. Given that impedance appears to influence the crackling, lowering it by using a preamp may solve the problem. I'll add a preamp in the circuit and see if that improves the issue.

 

 

By the way, @Fhaze, do you have the same shipping price issue as me or are you curious about the real problem causing this issue?

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Well I'm very confused about that shipping price, mine RAM GUY said I should not send anything, they would just resend a new set of small speaker for me, I already got my RMA approved, but nothing more, still waiting for more information.
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Nah, I'm in this both because of the shipping prize (as I live in Panama, central America), and I like to take the DIY route when possible. Besides, I've heard that several people RMA'd and received another bad one, so I decided I could as well try to fix it myself.

 

BTW, I added the preamp and so far, so good. However, due to the intermittent nature of the issue, I'll wait a week before calling it a success. If it works, I'll post details in case anyone has the same shipping price problem (ej andyroo08).

 

Edit: No crackling as of a month

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  • 1 month later...

I joined the forums because I have to same problem.

 

I'm in Japan and I have to ship to Hongkong according the RMA. (which got approved. so lame! I will have to pay more than the speakers are worth.) I hoped I would only have to ship within the country. I would rather buy a Logicool (Logitech in other parts of the world) Z623 setup, where they have exceptional warranty service here.

 

 

Here are the shipping charges:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/204/capturezq.jpg/

 

@genious_7, good work man. i will see if i can fix mine the same way.

 

(just in case you Corsair blokes are wondering what "exceptional" mean, i broke my G500 mouse - bought off Amazon Japan - and they (Logicool) sent me a new one after checking the bill, even without checking the broken mouse first, and only after i received the new one i had to return the broken one - cash on delivery on their burden! didn't cost me anything. i would expect such good service from a company like Corsair. why can't we do it via an agent listed on your website? links.co.jp for example)

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I recommend to try RMA unless you know to solder well. However, if you want to try, tell me so since I there is an easier way that I discovered after thinking some time that will make it easier. You still need to solder well though.
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  • Corsair Employee
Hi genious I to have this issue would you be able to share this easier way, I would like to fix it rather than rma which is not an option for me either. Thank you!

 

Is there a reason RMA is not an option?

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