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Old 08-23-2019, 07:00 AM
TheTiesThatBind TheTiesThatBind is offline
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Default Switching from push/pull intake to push/pull exhaust?

Hello there,

It's been a while. I haven't been using my computer all summer long but while I was working on it till late June, I saw Coolant temp on my H115i PRO idling at 30-33 degrees. Do I need to create separate fan curves for the summer? Also would I see an increase to my CPU temps if I for example set a low RPM on idle for the summer curve?

Also, what would be the benefit of transfering my AIO from the front to the top?
Is it worth it?
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Old 08-23-2019, 08:39 AM
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a) If you experience large changes in ambient temperature, it may be worthwhile to create separate fan curves based on the season.
b) In general, having the cooler as intake is better for performance than having it as exhaust.
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Old 08-23-2019, 05:25 PM
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Most people in temperate climates will want difference curves for Summer/Winter. In Winter, I might top out at 29-30C. That is my idle baseline in Summer. Obviously running the fans at high rate won't help take you below the ambient temperature. In the alternative, if you baseline coolant temp is 29C in Summer, running the fans at 600 isn't going to make it much worse.

If you are front mounted, there likely is no benefit to top mounting in relation to coolant temperature or CPU performance. The only winner from this might be PCH/m.2 or RAM temperatures that now get direct cooling with cooler air. The RAM is likely equally helped from the free air top exhaust, so that brings it back to m.2 and PCH. Not something to get totally excited about unless there is an issue.

Putting it at the top likely moves the entire radiator into a warmer case zone. Most cases are going to be 2-3C warmer at the top compared to the bottom or front. WHen up there you are exposed to VRM, RAM, and motherboard waste heat. In some situations, GPU heat as well and we know that doesn't help. Even in a fully water cooled build (CPU/GPU/VRM), my motherboard and RAM are the warmest thing in the case. Warmer than the GPU. Warmer than the exhaust coming off the radiator. If you are curious and have the time, by all means switch it up and see for yourself. However, if you prefer not to, you likely have a better set-up in your current configuration.
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Old 08-23-2019, 05:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DevBiker View Post
it may be worthwhile to create separate fan curves based on the season
I do exactly this.... i have winter and summer versions of all my profiles
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Old 08-24-2019, 09:49 AM
TheTiesThatBind TheTiesThatBind is offline
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Room temp during winter is ~ 20C(Max), May to June and September is about 24-30 depending the temp outside

Last edited by TheTiesThatBind; 08-24-2019 at 09:52 AM.
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Old 08-24-2019, 10:00 AM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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And that is the trick. The room ambient range is about the same as the coolant temp change at idle vs load. Really this is all about noise management. The cooler will take care of itself, but it is a common complaint for people who are sitting on the default presets or who bought during Winter to then wonder what is going when Summer hits as the fans are blasting all the time.

In terms of performance, most 140mm fans need about 700 rpm to be effective on a radiator when presented with load. The speed vs temp change below that is somewhat steep. At 1000 rpm I find 140s to be getting noticeable for sure and 1100-1200 is loud enough for me. If you keep your load fan speeds between 700-1000 rpm, that should do the trick. Of course, the other immediate no fuss solution is to use a relaxed quiet curve for the desktop work, then switch into work/game mode at a fixed RPM of your choosing. Pick something you can live with.

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Old 08-24-2019, 10:05 AM
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Thanks C! Well I’m using low rpm curve during light desktop work and speed up the things while on gaming so i guess I should try to do a separate fan curve for summer then
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