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How many blocks can be strung together?


CandyKid

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Alrighty...

 

I've got a P4 3.4 on a 925x and a 6600GT/OC'd 10%.

 

Would it be alright to daisy chain three blocks together using just one COOL system? If so, should I go GPU --> NB --> CPU or the other way around or something altogether different?

 

The whole circuit might look like this:

 

Res --> Pump --> Rad --> GPU --> NB --> CPU --> Back to Res

 

Ideas? Comments?

 

PLUR

CK

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With that hot of a CPU, I would have it first in the loop. RES-PUMP-RAD-CPU-GPU-NB-RES. It can make a few degree diference on the blocks 2nd and 3rd, so typicaly you would want hottest first (CPU), next hottest (GPU) and so on. Your video card, even o/c'd 10%, is not a hot running card in terms of cutting edge GPU's and your NB doesn't put anywhere near the heat as your CPU and GPU. If it makes hose management easier, you can put the NB 2nd and GPU 3rd. Depends on where your NB is on your MB. I am running a COOL on my system cooling all three. It works pretty well, but I am thinking of upgrading to a double fan rad with a little stronger fans (no A/C and its' summer). I beleive the max wattage in terms of heat the COOL system can handle is around 300 or so. I have a o/c'd XP barton, a BFG 6800GT OC o/c'd to 425/560 and Asus an7x8-e deluxe MB. My CPU temp at idle is about 105f and 115f under load. My GPU does not go above 57c under load as reported by the Forceware driver. This is with the ambient temp in the 80's!
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I'd dump the NB all together as it really doesn't help out anything and really hurts the complete overall system flow. They'er pretty much a waste of money in my book. A good stock air cooler with good air flow inside your case is all you need for the NB.

 

JonKrmr,

 

I would 100% recomend getting a bigger radiator with you using 3 blocks. That single 120mm fan radiator is really stressed to the limits....... :D:

 

I'm using dual heater cores and I can run with the radiator fans off and get cooler temps, totally passive is really great for sound levels, but I still use my fans while OC'ing during long periods of gaming.

31.JPG.8fef3413ab0883e2654ff1d4de748adb.JPG

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Alrighty...

 

The whole circuit might look like this:

 

Res --> Pump --> Rad --> GPU --> NB --> CPU --> Back to Res

 

Ideas? Comments?

 

yip like Bio-Hazard say bigger rad

but me i go with a manifold setup

rez pump rad series/paralle circuits for WB's

this way all WB's are getting pure chilled not reheated water

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What size are your barbs, KC?

 

Bio-Hazard,

 

Have you ever watched the temperatures of a NB running 1GB+ of dual channel memory and running it fast? They can get damned near up to the same temperature as your CPU with passive cooling alone.

 

I've always pulled the cooler, cleaned it and replaced the thermal compound with Arctic Silver V or such which has always helped me by ~5-10 degrees, but if I had the ability, I'd probably run water on it as well.

 

So... how should I fix this? Two radiators? I can get another radiator and slap it somewhere I suppose, but with my Thermatake Tsunami, I wouldn't know where! What about a 92mm radiator to put on the side panel with my 92mm fan? (I've got the version w/ a window). Does it matter as long as it's 3/8"?

 

PLUR

CK

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What size are your barbs, KC?

 

Bio-Hazard,

 

Have you ever watched the temperatures of a NB running 1GB+ of dual channel memory and running it fast? They can get damned near up to the same temperature as your CPU with passive cooling alone.

 

I've always pulled the cooler, cleaned it and replaced the thermal compound with Arctic Silver V or such which has always helped me by ~5-10 degrees, but if I had the ability, I'd probably run water on it as well.

 

So... how should I fix this? Two radiators? I can get another radiator and slap it somewhere I suppose, but with my Thermatake Tsunami, I wouldn't know where! What about a 92mm radiator to put on the side panel with my 92mm fan? (I've got the version w/ a window). Does it matter as long as it's 3/8"?

 

PLUR

CK

My NB on my LanParty stays under 40c even at my max oc of 310x9 on my Venice core, but I have 3 120mm fans blowing across my MB at all times, 2 from the heater core and o with just fresh air. I did put AS5 on the NB, that's pretty much a standard thing to do theses days.

 

http://img93.imageshack.us/img93/4852/3105ac.th.jpg

DSC02005.JPG.1e2b042a18e2634185dd5a507a4bc719.JPG

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...of course, take into account that your chipset doesn't handle the memory.

 

PLUR

CK

Yeppers, it's taken care of all on that sweet little Venice core............. :eek:

 

Used to run a Abit NF7-S for years water cooled and also never cooled the NB, just stock air with a little AS3/5.

CPUZ240.jpg.ab5c27a27f3441a3346cc617f89af486.jpg

DSC00862.1.JPG.54780e9b6e5cc6612e81f0509259edc4.JPG

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CandyKid-

Yes the 120mm radiator that is shipped with the COOL kit will handle the thermal load of your system. You can always get lower temps going to a dual radiator setup, but it is not necessary. The 120mm radiator that is shipped with the COOL kit is rated for 439 watts of heat dissipation. Your system has about 125 watts from CPU, 20 from NB, and about 80 from your GPU = 225 watts under full load. My Intel rig system specs are in my sig and it is cooled with the COOL kit. I have a Corsair NB block and a Danger Den NV68 GPU block.

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Heck, any system just about will handle the A64 AMD, good air will take some pretty good overclocks. But start pushing some watts through them, then you'll max out the radiator quick with 3 blocks......... :D: That is unless you like running at air cooled temps that is, I myself like staying under 40c whem possible............... ;):
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Heheheh...

 

I'm working out the kinks of a custom-mod job for using the rad with my own fan in a much more aesthetically pleasing way...

 

Basically, I want to mount the rad directly on the back of my case (Tsunami has a 120mm fan in back already), but have it turned around so the barbs point directly into the case...

 

This means a little modification in the way of two holes drilled/sanded/smoothed and lined so the tubes can come straight into the case w/out any of that loop-in-back business. Here's what I mean:

http://www.houseofhelp.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=1490&stc=1

 

 

I'd also take out the punched fan grill with a dremmel and use a neoprene pad w/ a 120 mm hole in the middle as a grommet between the case and the rad, then inside the case use another one between it and my own 120mm fan creating:

 

1) Less vibration noise.

 

2) Space between the fan and the rad face for better flow coverage and less noise.

 

3) Retain a good seal between the fan and the rad (will be rad-neprine-case steel-neoprene-fan)

 

Ideas?

 

PLUR

CK

setup.JPG.89a485be7b65b68e53696bf62533c3ea.JPG

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The idea of turning the radiator around has been around for sometime now and wooks very well. I'd keep the rad box though, it helps bring in cooler air, without the radbox, all the air that will be going through your rad will be warm air from inside the case and will hurt your overall performance.

 

Just a few thoughts from a noob water cooler................. :eek:

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Yeah, I know it'll be warmer, but I do have a 92mm fan blowing in the side and a 120 in the front...

 

I guess I'll just have to try it! The whole point of it, TBH, is to get rid of the rad-box. I don't want something sticking out the back of my case.

 

PLUR

CK

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Yeah, I know it'll be warmer, but I do have a 92mm fan blowing in the side and a 120 in the front...

 

I guess I'll just have to try it! The whole point of it, TBH, is to get rid of the rad-box. I don't want something sticking out the back of my case.

 

PLUR

CK

I'm with you one the radbox sticking out the back of the case, I'm not real fond of that either. But it does help with the cool air, but if you have good air flow and your case temp is right at room temp, or just above, your temps should still stay pretty good.

Swiftechs new kit recomends that it be installed the way you're talking about except that they use the radbox.

 

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/installation_guide_h20-APEX.pdf

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