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Old 12-02-2018, 07:25 PM
TheTiesThatBind TheTiesThatBind is offline
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Default ML140 White Led, RGB and Twin Pack

Hello there, I'm about to upgrade my H115i PRO to Push/Pull configuratiion. I have currently installed 2 ML 140 White LED fans on my radiator.

My questions is the follow:

Is the product CO-9050044-WW the same as the CO-9050046-WW when it comes to specs? Is there any difference apart the lack of LEDs? Since the front mounted fans won't be visible I could simple go for non LED version as far as is the same specs as the currently ML fans that I used.

Also what about the CO-9050077-WW product (The RGB Version)? Is it of the same specs as well with the only difference on the RGB part?

Hopefully I can get some help.

Kind regards and thanks in advance
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Old 12-02-2018, 07:34 PM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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CO-....44 is the twin pack (grey) and yes it is the same physical blade and motor as the "46" ML140 LED fans. They both will have the same fan performance, speeds, and ranges. You can certainly use those in push-pull and it would not matter how you split them. That said, there is a cost differential between the LED and the twin pack. Usually you don't get something for nothing, so it is possible the frame does not have rubber corners or perhaps less weight in addition to the obvious lack of of lighting. Regardless, no problem running these as a pair on either side. The LED prices are fairly low. You may also be able to find another 2x140 white if that's what you want.

The RGB version is a bit different. Same fan blade, but the RPM limit is reduced to ~1200. It was meant to be a quieter version without the 2000 rpm max. Now, you can certainly still run those in push pull using a different control source to help balance them (do you have a Commander Pro?), but realize there are quite a few requirements to getting into RGB lighting. Each fan has two wires, one for fan power, one for lighting power. Fan power cable goes to fan controller. Lighting cable goes to RGB Lighting Hub that requires SATA supplied power. That in turn connects to the Lighting Node Pro, which acts as the lighting control device and interface with the software. It is a fairly large price difference going for the ML140 RGB twin pack (has everything you need) to the C0...44 grey twin pack.
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  #3  
Old 12-02-2018, 07:49 PM
TheTiesThatBind TheTiesThatBind is offline
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Originally Posted by c-attack View Post
CO-....44 is the twin pack (grey) and yes it is the same physical blade and motor as the "46" ML140 LED fans. They both will have the same fan performance, speeds, and ranges. You can certainly use those in push-pull and it would not matter how you split them. That said, there is a cost differential between the LED and the twin pack. Usually you don't get something for nothing, so it is possible the frame does not have rubber corners or perhaps less weight in addition to the obvious lack of of lighting. Regardless, no problem running these as a pair on either side. The LED prices are fairly low. You may also be able to find another 2x140 white if that's what you want.

The RGB version is a bit different. Same fan blade, but the RPM limit is reduced to ~1200. It was meant to be a quieter version without the 2000 rpm max. Now, you can certainly still run those in push pull using a different control source to help balance them (do you have a Commander Pro?), but realize there are quite a few requirements to getting into RGB lighting. Each fan has two wires, one for fan power, one for lighting power. Fan power cable goes to fan controller. Lighting cable goes to RGB Lighting Hub that requires SATA supplied power. That in turn connects to the Lighting Node Pro, which acts as the lighting control device and interface with the software. It is a fairly large price difference going for the ML140 RGB twin pack (has everything you need) to the C0...44 grey twin pack.
Thanks for the reply c, I have the three pack of ML120 fans so I already own the Lighting Node and the Led Hub. My main concern is if I can use the RGB fans as a pair with the ML140 WLed which I already own since I don’t own a Commander Pro or if it would be better to go for the twin pack?

I can also find the following product in Greece, CO-9050045-WW, which appears to include the rubber plastic, is it the same as the ML WLed as well? Does it come to a twin pack? The front mounted fans won’t be visible so leds won’t be a priority unless I move the WLed in front and add 2 RGB ML140 if it’s possible to pair them with the rest of the build . Also will I need two Y splitters?

Thanks in advance
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Old 12-02-2018, 09:30 PM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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In terms of current, the H115i Pro can handle 4 ML140s of any combination. I forgot you have the other ML-RGB, so that takes some of the trouble out of this. Also, since the H115i Pro has two separate fan control channels, it doesn't matter if CH 1 is two 2000 rpm or 2 1200 rpm fans, you will be able to equalize them. Now typically you don't want to run one side at 2000 and the other at 1200 rpm, but the entire point of push pull is to not need to run those speeds anyway. As long as you are fine with limiting both sides to 1200/1400 rpm, the RGB version works fine. This should be plenty of air. My coolant delta is still only +5C with one pair of ML140 RGB.

Yes, you will need two PWM Y splitters for each channel of the H115i Pro fan controller. On the Pro cooler, it won't matter if one side if the grey ML140-2000 rpm or the RGB version.

The CO....45 version is the Black ML Pro. Those are what I have and they are solid. Not LED, full 2000 rpm speed. However, since you have the capability, there is something to be said for getting the RGB version. You may at some point dispense one side and you'll have RGB fans to show for it.
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2018, 09:41 PM
TheTiesThatBind TheTiesThatBind is offline
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So what you suggest is to move the White Led ML Fans in front and using the percentage adjustment, limit the RPMs to 1200-1400 rpms to equalize the RGB Fans, if I choose to go for them instead of the black for example?

I'm currently displaying the 2 WLed fans, but since I finally got space, I can now go for a push/pull configuration so, I could move the WLED Fans in front of the chassis where they won't be visible or even turn off their lighting and go for either RGB Fans to match the rest of the ML fans, or I could go for the 2 black which are indentical to the WLed, keep the WLed behind and try to do a red-white-black build?

I ordered the Noctua NA-SYC1 splitters, couldnt find anything else on the local market, hopefully they can do a reasonable job.

Last but not least, isn't the CFM another factor to consider or will it be equal for the same RPM level due to construction?
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Old 12-03-2018, 12:52 AM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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That splitter works well. I have been using it for years.

Regardless of which fans you choose, you will want the two sides of the radiator to run at approximately the same speed. A large difference between sides will create drag on the faster side and usually some odd air noise.

Same blade on all, so at 1000 rpm all of the ML variants will move exactly the same volume of air. The meatier specifications on the high speed model is only realized when you are running 2000 rpm. That’s pretty loud and I typically benchmark at 1200-1300. High speeds only have value if you use them.
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Old 12-03-2018, 05:32 AM
TheTiesThatBind TheTiesThatBind is offline
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Alright! Thanks for helping me out on this one. I’m gonna aim for two more ML RGB probably and try to balance the RPM! After all, under stress tests the max RPM I’ve seen is about 1400-1600 RPM.

So shall I am for equal rpms or is there a +/- value that allows good acoustics despite the difference? I guess if I put at 35 celcius max RPM on RGB fans I should aim for about 60% on WLed? I’m I getting the idea right? (Gonna do the maths for more accurate values)

Last edited by TheTiesThatBind; 12-03-2018 at 06:05 AM.
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Old 12-03-2018, 06:51 AM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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The last time I did this I would typically run the push side about 100-150 rpm faster than the pull. This was for acoustic reasons and no other. However, each set up is a bit unique, so my exhaust set up with those particular fans may not have much meaning. You’ll need to tinker around and see. However, most likely it makes no difference and subtle changes in speed are not noticeable — which of course is the goal. Just avoid large speed differences.

It will be interesting to see if the % are mathematically accurate. Most often 50% does not get you 1/2 the maximum, but it should be consistent once you discover it.
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Old 12-03-2018, 07:38 AM
TheTiesThatBind TheTiesThatBind is offline
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I ordered two ML RGB fans, gonna set them up and start tweaking the percentage of rpm on the WLED and will come back with some feedback. Thanks for your time c!
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Old 12-03-2018, 03:19 PM
TheTiesThatBind TheTiesThatBind is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c-attack View Post
The last time I did this I would typically run the push side about 100-150 rpm faster than the pull. This was for acoustic reasons and no other. However, each set up is a bit unique, so my exhaust set up with those particular fans may not have much meaning. You’ll need to tinker around and see. However, most likely it makes no difference and subtle changes in speed are not noticeable — which of course is the goal. Just avoid large speed differences.

It will be interesting to see if the % are mathematically accurate. Most often 50% does not get you 1/2 the maximum, but it should be consistent once you discover it.
Oh by the way C, since I'm doing this tiny update on my cooler, I will also change my thermal paste to TG Kryonaut's. Just wondering cause I've seen some comments around, do I have to use the thin spread method or the pea method is fine for this particular paste?

Do you have any idea about it?

Kind regards

PS. I always use the pea method, never tried anything else

Last edited by TheTiesThatBind; 12-03-2018 at 04:31 PM.
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Old 12-03-2018, 05:52 PM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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It will be fine either way since the Kryo is not overly viscous and it will spread out when you tighten the cooler down. I use it too and prefer to "paint" the lid with the included applicator. Like most of these things, people either love or hate the little tip. For that product, I like it and it works.
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Old 12-03-2018, 07:50 PM
TheTiesThatBind TheTiesThatBind is offline
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I’m just worried because of my inexperience of spreading the paste with the tool. I’m my afraid that it could be too much so I always go for the pea method
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Old 12-03-2018, 08:04 PM
c-attack c-attack is offline
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I think it's one of the easier ones. You should be able to make a couple of passes through the center of the CPU. It's not like some of the really viscous ones that come with a spatula and recommendation to heat it prior to application.
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Old 12-03-2018, 08:14 PM
TheTiesThatBind TheTiesThatBind is offline
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I got the 1g version, so I don’t know for sure if it’s coming with a separate spatula or the one that it’s attachable, I do have to spread it all over the heatsink of the cpu right?
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Old 12-03-2018, 08:57 PM
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OK, you're going to get the little plastic spatula with that. Use the pea/line method and squash it. The larger tubes have a rubber applicator tip that goes on the end. It's more like applying whiteout or corrective tape and you just paint down the CPU lid. If you want to "pre-smoosh" the pea with the spatula to try and get a larger spread before tightening up, that will work too. It doesn't need to be perfect. Just spread a little with the spatula, then use the cooler head to do the rest.
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