CORSAIR Obsidian Series 1000D Now Available!

[Zone55555]

Originally Posted by Zotty

some info on this in my build thread dude.. and it supports my EVGA 1080 SC with no issues at all

Also holds my heavy-as-hell Gigabyte AORUS 2080 without a hint of issue. Should handle anything you can throw at it.

Word of advice though: For my situation using an Asus Maximus XI Formula, a TT-brand 200mm PCIE 16x riser cable was just *barely* long enough and I had some sweaty moments. I'd strongly suggest looking for one that's just a bit longer. 300mm is overkill and even 250mm is probably a little more than you need, but I haven't seen any produced in 220mm which would probably be about perfect.

You'd think it'd be a nice opportunity for Corsair to pair up with someone and make some perfect length cables for the 1000D, since they already have a piece of the cable market.

[Zone55555]

Anyone done an underglow for the 1000D, similar to what a certain other unnamed company is offering as a package?

Seems to me it would probably be pretty straightforward to run another NodePro off one of my CoPros, and run the RGB strip extension cables out the bottom vents under the drive bay, and magnetically attach the strips between the "foot" part and the baseplate?

I really need to flip my computer over and see if there's a problem with routing cables that way, or better ideas.... but I don't want to turn it off :(

[Zotty]

Originally Posted by Zone55555

Anyone done an underglow for the 1000D, similar to what a certain other unnamed company is offering as a package?

you mean this sort of thing?



;) :)

[Zone55555]

Originally Posted by Zotty

you mean this sort of thing?



;) :)

That kind of sexy thing indeed!

Did you drill some holes, or route cables around the outside somehow? I can see one way to do an external cabling, and one way that would require me to pop some holes in the 'foot' but otherwise allow me to keep it all cabled internally.

[Zotty]

I didnt drill.. yet.. i just ran the cable out of the gap at the back of the rear glass door.

but its not finished yet, i have yet to receive the LED Strip Mounting Profile i am going to put the strips in...

More to come ;)

[Zone55555]

I think I'm going out the vents below the drive cage, into the void created by the v shape in the foot, directly to the back of the case and around the edges of the foot into the gap between the low part of the foot and the base. It's not ideal but requires no drilling and no cables anywhere around the doors or hinges.

[Zone55555]

Got the new strips, ran the cabling as planned and yeah for the cost of one drive bay it's a pretty workable solution. Invisible little bit of cable run from the under-foot to the over-foot, and the strips magnet-attached to the bottom of the base-plate. Had plenty of cables with the included extensions to pull back to a decent spot for a NoPro, and luckily that meant I didn't have to run any more to my already maxed-out pair of CoPros.

One RGB strip left one right, and that left me two more to pull off the dangling end of the front panel strips. Cool.

Now I need to figure out something for some diffusers, cause the bottom would look much cooler pulsing that way.

[SEERREUS]

How many of you guys keep the dust filter at the top of the case installed?

[Zotty]

I do... but i have my top fans as intake also....

[eisenb11]

Mission accomplished! Just finished getting my rig up and running - same computer, but just moved from an original Level 10 to the 1000D.

[Zotty]

NICE!.. very nice! well done dude.. love that straight run from top rad to front rad!...

any tips/tricks/lessons learnt to pass on?

[eisenb11]

Originally Posted by Zotty

NICE!.. very nice! well done dude.. love that straight run from top rad to front rad!...

any tips/tricks/lessons learnt to pass on?

Thanks for the compliments! Most definitely, here are some lessons learned:

* With the rad ports on top, I could fit pretty much any thickness of rad in front (I used a 60 mm) but I could only fit a 30 mm up top without blocking the ports. I only had about 2 mm to spare. I wanted the rads in series and a clean connection (hence the straight run) so the front rad ports had to be up top.

* You can go over 30 mm up top if you move the front rad ports to the bottom, but this setup is likely better for dual loops versus single loop. Also, all this is moot if you stick with the original top fan tray or put a 360 mm rad in the 8 fan tray. I wanted 4x 480s so I could go low RPM on the fans.

* Get some swiveling offset fittings! Life saver as 2 times I found that ports were misaligned by just 4-5 mm. Most fittings require at least 10 mm to offset so these were a life saver.

* The rear fans support either 2x 120s or 1x 140. The product description made it sound like you could use 2x 140 mm.

* RGB is much cooler than I thought it would be!

* Careful mixing and matching RGB components if you want to use only iCue. There are a bunch of 3rd party converters and adapters, but they’re all limited to 5v like the Corsair stuff. Some components are still using 12v analog RGB, like with my res and GPU block. I have a second RGB controller for those.

* Extensions - you need them! This case is huge! I ended up having to use a number of PWM, Corsair RGB (made by 3rd party), and analog RGB extension cables if I wanted to have enough length to do some level of cable management.

* RGB hub splitter cables are awesome. These are 3rd party. Each hub only supports 6 RGB connections. You could buy individual 3rd party RGB splitters, but it gets expensive fast. With each 8 fan tray you have 2 columns of 4. I decided I wanted each column to be individually addressable, each fan in each row wasn’t necessary so the 8 fans could essentially be 4 fans in a sense. So 1 RGB hub splitter cable to 2 RGB hubs (each with 4 fans) and all set!

* It’s sometimes cheaper to buy the Corsair fan kit instead of individual fans. I bought my kits on sale so the fans had a lower per unit price. And as a bonus you also get a RGB hub, Node, extension cables, etc. with them. Nice to get more for less!

* The Corsair PCIe riser cable is really long at 300mm. This case doesn’t push the GPU out very far when going vertical. You end up having to bend it a lot so you end up being able to see the cable beneath the bottom of the card. Fortunately, it’s a nice looking cable and I’m still happy with the look. If you want to completely hide the cable, I recommend getting a shorter one which likely requires going 3rd party.

Hope this helps!

[Zotty]

GREAT reply buddy!, i have covered some of those points in my Faq's but some i haven't

in no particular order...

Riser cable.. yeah bit too long imho., was a no go in my wifes 570x build with the CM adaptor bracket. and tight in my 1000D



can confirm on Fan prices.. watch out for the sales. they come and go often and i did the same. (32 LL's going in mine)

RGB Fan LED Hub Splitter's FTW! simple as that.. best invention since sliced bread

this is my planned set up...



and yeah lol.. i already have it built with an aio while awaiting Hydro x... its HUGE. is no escaping the need for extensions!

how it is now

[eisenb11]

Originally Posted by Zotty

RGB Fan LED Hub Splitter's FTW! simple as that.. best invention since sliced bread

this is my planned set up...

Oh wow, you're doing a RGB hub splitter into 2 more RGB hub splitters... never thought of that! Good idea.

[Zotty]

Originally Posted by eisenb11

Oh wow, you're doing a RGB hub splitter into 2 more RGB hub splitters... never thought of that! Good idea.

I hope it works ok lol.. its obviously a serious bend of Corsairs Rules and as such not supported