Getting H60 set up just right?

Just a quick question:

 

As per the user manual, I have my AIO plugged into the SATA and the CPU_FAN and I have the radiator fan plugged into the W_PUMP.

 

The W_PUMP runs my radiator fan at 100% all the time and I can't customize the curve at all in the BIOS.

 

Is this the best setup for this system? Or is there a better way to go in terms of what gets plugged where and what speeds it should be running at?

 

System runs very cool, but I feel like running the radiator fan at 100% all the time isn't necessarily optimal?

Swap those two or move the fan to a chassis fan header you can control. “Water Pump” headers are set to 100% by default and are intended for units that draw pump power directly from the motherboard. There aren’t to many of those any more. Some motherboards will let you undo the 100% lock on W-Pump, but it varies quite a bit from model to model.

Thank you I had a hunch this might be the case.

 

Is there any concern at all about moving the AIO 4-pin power off the CPU_FAN? I think I was reading something about temperature sensors or pump failure warnings being connected to CPU_FAN or something? Or will the W_PUMP actually provide the same info (if that is even a real thing that I'm remembering).

You need something to be on CPU fan to boot up. Standard fail safe. Doesn't matter what it is. Most CPU_FAN headers were programmed for air coolers and have a really quick trigger on speed changes and some other related safety protocols. You don't need those when water cooling and sticking the pump header there solves both issues (bad controls and need to boot up). In this instance, you can put the pump tach wire (that's the only thing on that cable) on either place. The bigger concern is the fan and if you get better control on CPU Fan, W_Pump, or some other header.

 

Also, the BIOS does have a way to bypass the CPU boot error (no fan) thing. It does vary by manufacturer. Not sure if you have Asus or GA, but for Asus you can do this by going to Advanced BIOS -> Monitor tab, then scroll down to the CPU fan RPM reading. Select it and choose "ignore". This is how must us with custom cooling or anyone else that uses an external fan controller will set up. All that said, the warning does have a purpose. If you connect the pump tach lead to it and for whatever reason the pump does not start at boot, the BIOS will let you know immediately with the error. That usually gives you an indicator as to what's happened vs loading to windows and then all of sudden getting a hard shutdown at the temp limit with no clue as to why.

Thanks again - I switched the pump 3-pin to the W_PUMP and the radiator fan to the CPU_FAN and now I'm getting almost identical temperature performance, but with significantly less noise. Radiator fan now runs around 600 at idle and ramps up to 1700 versus running 1700 all the time.

 

Tomorrow I have a second fan arriving - gonna put it on CPU_OPT to set up a push/pull and see if I can do a little overclocking.

OK, then this was the right switch if you are going to run 2 fans (CPU+OPT) or use a PWM spliter. Also keep in mind, those curves in your BIOS were made for an air tower (maybe) and most don't seem to have much relationship to anything. 120mm fans won't move a lot of air below 1000 rpm, but that is perfectly fine for on the desktop. When you push pull, this will be very viable at lower speeds. They do become much more effective in the 1000-1300 rpm range. That is where you want to be most of the time for load. You can save the 1700 blast for something closer to your safety limit.