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  #16  
Old 08-29-2019, 03:12 PM
Robostyle Robostyle is offline
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Now the hard part, find time, and really figure out how I will route all cables and placement of the various nodes and copro.

Oh boy, what did I just start
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  #17  
Old 08-29-2019, 03:16 PM
Robostyle Robostyle is offline
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By the way, I found a neat little detail in the 1000D yesterday. On the top tray there is a rubber ending at the rear so you do not smash you glass side panel. I too eagerly pulled the top tray, and heard a soft boing. Thank you for that Corsair, but I promise I will be a bit more careful next time
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  #18  
Old 09-03-2019, 03:33 AM
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I'm looking at upgrrading my case from 900D to the new 1000D

Has anyone mounted the GPU vertically at the location for the mini-ITX graphics card location, as want to use other PCIe lanes for Intel Optane PCIe 480Gb , Asus Hyper 16 raid etc
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  #19  
Old 09-04-2019, 12:14 AM
Zone55555 Zone55555 is offline
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Re: 1000D and mounting in the ITX location: I have chosen not to do so for airflow purposes, as my Aorus RTX 2080 is still fan-cooled (and Corsair apparently isn't going to make a waterblock for it), and the ITX location would have completely smothered it against the glass door.

If Corsair ever change their mind and offer a version of the XG7 that'll fit, I decide to go with the other big name who does make a block for it, or I upgrade to a 2080TI that's water-blockable and avoid the whole problem, at that time I might reconsider since airflow would no longer be the concern it currently is.

Also keep in mind you'll need a particularly long PCIE extender to reach that far. A typical 30cm PCIE extender only just *barely* reaches the provided 1000D vertical adapter, and that was a little hairy. You'd want probably at bare minimum a 45cm/450mm cable, and don't take my word for it that's enough. Also think about the fact the PCIE extender is naturally gonna lay right across those other "unused" PCIE slots, so one way or the other you're losing the use of them if you cable from the typical 1st PCIE slot, nearest the CPU to get full 16x.

I suppose you could do some cable-bending wizardry with a super-long extender to save on that, but that makes me queasy. These PCIE extenders are pretty stiff and I can't imagine signal integrity wouldn't be impacted by too much folding and bending to route it in funky ways.
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  #20  
Old 09-04-2019, 02:15 AM
GhostWorks GhostWorks is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zone55555 View Post
Re: 1000D and mounting in the ITX location: I have chosen not to do so for airflow purposes, as my Aorus RTX 2080 is still fan-cooled (and Corsair apparently isn't going to make a waterblock for it), and the ITX location would have completely smothered it against the glass door.

If Corsair ever change their mind and offer a version of the XG7 that'll fit, I decide to go with the other big name who does make a block for it, or I upgrade to a 2080TI that's water-blockable and avoid the whole problem, at that time I might reconsider since airflow would no longer be the concern it currently is.

Also keep in mind you'll need a particularly long PCIE extender to reach that far. A typical 30cm PCIE extender only just *barely* reaches the provided 1000D vertical adapter, and that was a little hairy. You'd want probably at bare minimum a 45cm/450mm cable, and don't take my word for it that's enough. Also think about the fact the PCIE extender is naturally gonna lay right across those other "unused" PCIE slots, so one way or the other you're losing the use of them if you cable from the typical 1st PCIE slot, nearest the CPU to get full 16x.

I suppose you could do some cable-bending wizardry with a super-long extender to save on that, but that makes me queasy. These PCIE extenders are pretty stiff and I can't imagine signal integrity wouldn't be impacted by too much folding and bending to route it in funky ways.
will run Riser cable from The Rampage VI extreme Third Slot down with is 16x which should give me enough length
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  #21  
Old 09-06-2019, 10:01 AM
Zone55555 Zone55555 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostWorks View Post
will run Riser cable from The Rampage VI extreme Third Slot down with is 16x which should give me enough length
Cool, I'm happy you have that option for getting full 16x!
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  #22  
Old 09-07-2019, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GhostWorks View Post
Has anyone mounted the GPU vertically at the location for the mini-ITX graphics card location, as want to use other PCIe lanes for Intel Optane PCIe 480Gb , Asus Hyper 16 raid etc
Vertical mounted GPU at the ITX location


Last edited by Bogartz; 09-07-2019 at 06:59 PM.
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  #23  
Old 09-08-2019, 04:24 AM
Robostyle Robostyle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bogartz View Post
Vertical mounted GPU at the ITX location



That answers the question I think. Looks very good. Nice to see there is even room for tubes running along the front of the card.

But like Zone55555 mentioned: use water-cooling since airflow would be non existing blowing against the glass panel.

Last edited by Robostyle; 09-08-2019 at 04:27 AM.
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  #24  
Old 09-08-2019, 05:10 AM
Robostyle Robostyle is offline
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A little update on the progress so far. I clipped all my fan cables, sleeved them and crimped new pins/connectors to them.

Clipped the cables, and marked them where pin one was. The first one modding took me one and a half hour. Later fans took me 20 min. while watching Netflix.



Also my way of doing this later on was split the first wire (pin 1) of the ribbon cable, cut it to the correct length and crimp a pin to it. Do the same for for both RGB/fan. Then remove the connector, put the sleeve on and the heatshrink. Than the cable tie. Then one by one add the cables with crimp back in to the housing.

I was scared that I would mess up (especially the RGB cable), but with some patience non of the fans ended up in the trash.

Still waiting for my bigger heatshrink to arrive so I can heatshrink the connector/wires.

Saying so myself, not bad for a first time



Had one oops with the sticker that didn't manage the heat from my heatgun when shrinking the heatshrink



And the final result. Removed the stickers on the hub, since I can't stand them being not perfectly center and they wobble all the time.





And covered the oopsed sticker with one of the removed hub stickers. But this will be a temporary solution since I can now see the logo's through the glass panels and the are up side down. So I will grab some black sticky folly and cut some circles.




Next is making the RGB/fan cable extensions and route them through the case where my LNP and copro are. I really liked how zotty put them behind the radiator, but the EK radiators do not have a recess, so there is no room for them.

The idea now is to put them next to the existing copro. To hide the wires I''ll have to come up with a cover plate in the top/back of the case to hide them, although most of the cable will run behind my top rad.
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  #25  
Old 09-08-2019, 05:25 AM
Robostyle Robostyle is offline
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To connect the fan/RGB I came up with the following battle plan:

for the front front 8 ML120 pro fans:


and the top 3 ML140 pro's:


The idea is to get a 12Volt rail directly from the PSU (PCIe or SATA). Connect all fans to this rail. Then connect all PWM pins, and have one fan output the tachometer signal. I then connect one cable to the PSU, and one to the CoPro.

Does any one know up to how many PWM signals can be connected to one another?
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  #26  
Old 09-08-2019, 05:27 AM
Robostyle Robostyle is offline
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Also a box with my new keyboard arrived. I wanted a 10-keyless keyboard since I'm always bang my mouse to the right side of my keyboard which often get me killed when I play FPS games. So more wiggle room



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  #27  
Old 09-09-2019, 10:41 PM
Zone55555 Zone55555 is offline
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Nice diagrams, bud. Makes me twice as ashamed about my horrific "two year old with a copy of MSPaint" skills with my own loop and wiring planning diagrams. :)
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  #28  
Old 10-13-2019, 09:49 AM
Robostyle Robostyle is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zone55555 View Post
Nice diagrams, bud. Makes me twice as ashamed about my horrific "two year old with a copy of MSPaint" skills with my own loop and wiring planning diagrams. :)
Hey thanks, I'm sure they look fine and usable :-)
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  #29  
Old 10-13-2019, 10:35 AM
Robostyle Robostyle is offline
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Sorry for the lack of updates lately, but I was waiting for part to arrive. But I got them and found some time to do quite a lot and got stuff done.

I started with the Lighting Node PRO since I dislike the SATA power plugs to put a different connector on them and sleeve the cable. So I opened the device added an extra 5V wire due to current ratings of the plugs I use.



The connector I use are the same connector as used for the RGB lightning for the fans, but 5-pin instead of the 4-pin. And the result:



And it seems I didn't break any thing:



Next on my list was to sleeve the RGB lighting hub. But this got my attention. Since I understand how the RGB system works (WS2812B), it dawned on me how to get rid of some of the extra devices since the RGB lightning hub is just an RGB splitter. Simply said that is, input on the input pin from one LED is passed through the next LED through an output pin, e.g. daisy chained. But here is how they look look:



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  #30  
Old 10-13-2019, 10:57 AM
Robostyle Robostyle is offline
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This would not only solve the issue with a lot of extra devices, but also with the number of wires I needed to route through my case. Since I use EKWB radiators I have almost no space between the radiator's side and the side panels of the case. A plan was born:

- Route +12V, +5V, and GND directly from the PSU (through the PSU's Peripheral & SATA outputs).
- Route the data wire out from a Lighting Node PRO which are still required.
- Route the FAN sense and PWM signal from the Commander pro.

For my setup I'm now left with only one Lighting Node PRO and a Commander Pro. This gives me four LED headers for control (Two from CoPro, and tweo from the LNPro). Also bundling the FANs (max four) to a single female 4-pin fan header, the CoPro can drive all my fans, and no load on the CoPro since I have the +12V connected directly to the PSU.

If someone is interested in how I did the wire connections, let me know and I will make a diagram.

So now the result of this is single cable harness that is powered directly from the PSU, and drives the three ML140 FANs and their RGB LEDs. With this I didn't lose any control and each LED is still individually addressed.

The cable now has three male-FAN connectors, three four pin male Corsair-RGB connectors, one female 3-pin RGB connector that plugs into the Lighting Node PRO (or CoPro), and a female 4-pin FAN connector that the CoPro will connect. The result:







Still working:



I noticed that I didn't have pictures of the cable harness fully finished, so this has to do. The final result I also heat shrinked all connectors.

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