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Corsair 1000D build/log with vertical GPU mount


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  • 1 month later...

Sorry for the lack of updates lately, but I was waiting for part to arrive. But I got them and found some time to do quite a lot and got stuff done.

 

I started with the Lighting Node PRO since I dislike the SATA power plugs to put a different connector on them and sleeve the cable. So I opened the device added an extra 5V wire due to current ratings of the plugs I use.

 

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The connector I use are the same connector as used for the RGB lightning for the fans, but 5-pin instead of the 4-pin. And the result:

 

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And it seems I didn't break any thing:

 

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Next on my list was to sleeve the RGB lighting hub. But this got my attention. Since I understand how the RGB system works (WS2812B), it dawned on me how to get rid of some of the extra devices since the RGB lightning hub is just an RGB splitter. Simply said that is, input on the input pin from one LED is passed through the next LED through an output pin, e.g. daisy chained. But here is how they look look:

 

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This would not only solve the issue with a lot of extra devices, but also with the number of wires I needed to route through my case. Since I use EKWB radiators I have almost no space between the radiator's side and the side panels of the case. A plan was born:

 

- Route +12V, +5V, and GND directly from the PSU (through the PSU's Peripheral & SATA outputs).

- Route the data wire out from a Lighting Node PRO which are still required.

- Route the FAN sense and PWM signal from the Commander pro.

 

For my setup I'm now left with only one Lighting Node PRO and a Commander Pro. This gives me four LED headers for control (Two from CoPro, and tweo from the LNPro). Also bundling the FANs (max four) to a single female 4-pin fan header, the CoPro can drive all my fans, and no load on the CoPro since I have the +12V connected directly to the PSU.

 

If someone is interested in how I did the wire connections, let me know and I will make a diagram.

 

So now the result of this is single cable harness that is powered directly from the PSU, and drives the three ML140 FANs and their RGB LEDs. With this I didn't lose any control and each LED is still individually addressed.

 

The cable now has three male-FAN connectors, three four pin male Corsair-RGB connectors, one female 3-pin RGB connector that plugs into the Lighting Node PRO (or CoPro), and a female 4-pin FAN connector that the CoPro will connect. The result:

 

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Still working:

 

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I noticed that I didn't have pictures of the cable harness fully finished, so this has to do. The final result I also heat shrinked all connectors.

 

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And for the 8-fans in the front of the case I made a similar cable harness. The difference is that I split the RGB control in a left and right side. So this means two RGB 3-pin connector for the Lighting Node PRO or Commander Pro, and two FAN control 4-pin connectors connected to the Commander Pro.

 

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A bit less messy since I have way less wires from all fans. Otherwise it would have been top tray, 3 FAN and 3 RGB cables plus front tray, 8 FAN and 8 RGB cables.

 

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Next on my list was creating custom PSU cables for the PCI-e and 24-pin motherboard cable. This was quite the work, and still not done since I also want to do the CPU cable but that has to wait. Eventually I will also make a set for the mini ITX system when I'm done with the main system.

 

Speaking of the mini ITX system: this has now a new home for a while until I'm done with the main system. Don't want no fluids leaking on that system now.

 

The mini ITX system, FreeNAS, is back into it's old home (technically a new home, since it was occupied by the previous old NAS system). A Fractal something:

 

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For the custom PSU cables I started with the 8-pin PCI-e cables since these are the simpler ones. I stil needed to learn how to do heat shrinkless sleeving, crimping and managing double wires in cables. I think the end result is very nice for a first time:

 

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Then started on the 24-pin to 18- and 10-pin cable on the PSU side. This was a lot harder, first making a pin layout and see which wires go where. These PSU (RM1000i) have sense wires, so there where also some double wires on the 24-pin header and some capacitors. Reading forums the sense wires are essential (in layman terms: feedback signal to see if the voltages need to be adjusted when the loads are high), but the capacitors are not (just removes some ripples). The original cables also have a mix of 16 AWG and 22 AWG wire. The smaller wire for the sense signals which allows for having a double wire in the 24-pin connector.

 

The result:

 

The double 8-pin next to the 24-pin connector (don't mind my old 980 TI).

 

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And the backside, still messy but that will be fixed when I swap out for a new motherboard:

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I also received cable clips, so will be clipping them in a future update.

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Now that the mini ITX system is out of the way, lets get the system wet (hopefully not :-).

 

Disassembled my 2080 TI Founders Edition. This was very scarry since I never have taken the original cooling blocks of a GPU before.

 

removed the screws from the backplate, really wished I could reuse that one, since I really like the original backplate:

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removed the screws from the back panel:

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removed the backplate:

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and the cooler:

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Cleaned the cooling pasta. Ooowh, a shinny mirror like surface:

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Then I needed to add the water block to the GPU, but I was so occupied with assembling the block I forgot to take pictures :-$. But the final result looks like this:

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Next up, the GPU loop for my system. Temporary until I make my own vertical GPU mount to offset it more to the left side panel though. But this gets me a bit accustomed to make a loop, and all stuff to get that going.

 

Tubing runs done and ready for leak testing with EKWB leak tester.

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Let it sit for half an hour and it didn't move, that is good right?

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Filling the loop, I'm nervous since I've not seen the RTX 2080 TI running after I took it apart and installed the water block.

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After letting it run for over 13 hours, no leakage found... which it should not have done :-) Had a lot of bubbles and air pockets trapped in the GPU block. But after 13 hours this was all gone.

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Booting the computer for the first time gave me bit of a scare. It did boot, but I had no image. Eventually it was the PCI-E extention cable in the bottom slot that didn't work, but also in the second slot it didn't work. The later being strange, since I ran in the second slot with the 980 TI. But putting it in the first slot all worked.

 

Also did some testing my GPU loop a bit and I'm very happy with the results. It is around 27 degrees celcius when idle, and a bit above 50 degrees while running benchmarks and doing some gaming overclocked.

 

On top of the case you might see the new Corsair VIRTUOSO RGB WIRELESS S. I wanted a wireless headset for a long time, and this had some good review. The looks are stunning, it fits well (on my head anyway) build quality is very nice, and the sound is also very good (coming from a Senheiser GAME ONE). The only dislike at the moment is the mic quality on wireless. I got some complaints from friends anyway until I switch to wired mode.

 

So next up is waiting until the Ryzen 3950X will be available in November. But if it is like the 3900X that might take even longer.

 

Then I can finish the following things left to do:

 

  1. 8-pin CPU PSU cable + 4-pin CPU cable if I decide to go with the Asus Crosshair Formula board. But if I decide on another board it might be even a double 8-pin CPU PSU cable or even something else.
    test
  2. Start working on the GPU mount.
  3. Finish the CPU loop.
  4. Do some proper cable management for the front and back.
  5. Install my mini ITX system back.
  6. Create custom cables for the mini ITX.
  7. Sleeve the front panel cables.
  8. Sleeve the SATADATA cables.
  9. Make custom SATA-power cables.

 

And probably some more stuff I already forgot.

 

I've also been playing with the idea of a custom distro plate. Not sure if I ever will, but I have a cool idea in my head to put a plexi distroplate above the motherboard tray along the full length. I'll have to switch to hard tubing then, but that is ok since this build is also a bit of a learning thing for me. That might sound like a big change, but it is only changing the compression fittings to hardtube fitting. All line then will be vertically up straight to the distro plate with a minimal amount of bending. But that involves buying a CNC machine, or maybe find someone to make one for me :-)

Edited by Robostyle
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some serious work gone into some of those RGB mods buddy.. not had chance to sit and read it all to soak it all up. but impressive looking it is!

 

Hey thanks man. Yeah, took a lot of time, but worth it. Unlike your build, I just don, have the clearance to tuk al those LNPros away. :biggrin:

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Hey thanks man. Yeah, took a lot of time, but worth it. Unlike your build, I just don, have the clearance to tuk al those LNPros away. :biggrin:

 

i count my self lucky i could get away with it lol.. i was at work yesterday. but today i will sit and read through and take it all in... its a pleasure to see your work :)

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