hquest

You also might want to add a dual rotary fitting, so you can flip down the ball valve when not in use. BP-90R2 (bitspower.com)

I'm still baffled how on Earth would the PETG tubing cause harm to the nickel plating. That is truly beyond my comprehension. Yes, water will get warm and yes, PETG tubes do tend to deform if over 60C/140F (which doesn't take much effort when you are running any "K" processors). Which causes bad reactions as water and electricity should not mix, but it still does not explain poor plating quality. The Primochill Utopia could be a culprit, but again, with a Corsair XG7 GPU cooler in this same system, exposed to the same chemicals, same temperatures and with zero damage/changes whatsoever thru the same lifespan of the XC7, poor plating quality is still my failure of choice. From Corsair Limited Warranty – Corsair: Corsair warrants that the product will be free from defects in material and workmanship for the specified period. Except they don't. After they collect your money, you are on your own.

Heads up for everyone building your new shiny systems: Below is my 22 month old "premium" Corsair XC7 block. The nickel plating is peeling off. Corsair denied my RMA request because I used PETG tubing (!!!) and a "non compatible coolant" (Primochill Utopia, which is a anti-corrosive, anti-bacterial inhibitor fluid). Surprisingly, a XG7 GPU block on my 5700XT is still clear as the day it was shipped, and had zero harm by the very same PETG tubing and the same coolant. Which clearly tells me PETG or Utopia are not the issue here. Watch out how you build your system - or how you claim on your RMA.

iCue v4 user here (v4.13.226). The Hydro X Series fan/pump curves shows when the app is upgraded from a previous iCue v4, then goes away after a sleep/power off/restart - just as it has been doing at every version since iCue v4 was released. Moving back to iCue v3, that works like a champ. And takes half disk and memory space, and much less CPU cycles to set up fans/motor speeds and RGB colors.

Absolutely I can, except I cannot RMA the Corsair pump without replacing the pump and the reservoir. Which costs more than just a pump and requires a flush and refill of the system. Hence my rationale of two separate entities instead of a combo unit.

The RMA is being processed, a few pictures and proof of purchase provided, and apparently no drama so far. I was not really expecting this unit to fail so soon. I know a lot of folks who have theirs running 24/7 for well in excess of years - some goes without any maintenance stop, which is totally not recommended. But as any tech, it is a lottery. I hope I don’t need to, but I will keep swapping these if one goes bad, until their warranties wear off. Afterwards, I will grab a spare pump for less than half the price. I really do not need a second reservoir, and I am keeping a lesson learned: should my self be building a new custom loop system, I will go after separate pump and reservoirs. And a spare pump from the get go.

Add me to the statistics. After about 9 months of operation, the XD5 does this morning. Made some loud noise clicks for less than 10 seconds, and shut it off. There is no air or algae into the system, this is a pure distilled water with Primochill Utopia coolant. Pump doesn’t turn on regardless of where the 3-pin header is connected, if on the Commander Pro unit or the MoBo header, or if left disconnected. Same as for the SATA cable. Adjusting speed settings on iCue makes no difference. I have an open RMA with Corsair. Let us see how many iterations it will take until a replacement arrives... Sad, since it used to work great - until it doesn’t but hey, that’s how life works :)

While colorful liquids and even some dyes definitely adds a charm to the loop, they also adds extras on their maintenance. For plain distilled water, at a minimum a corrosion inhibitor is strongly suggested. Unless you don't care about flushing and clearing your loop ever 6 months, I would stick with water.

Yes, that is the correct order, because the GPU is the only with two RGB wires. Here is how you would set it up on iCue (reverse, but you got it right). Set the lightning channel as "Hydro X Series", then set the pump, the GPU, then the CPU block. Other than the Commander Pro USB header, no other wires needs to be plugged into the motherboard. You still need power cables, though, for the pump and fans.

I suppose they cannot really endorse their products on Apple hardware on fear of retaliation by Apple. I agree this is a simple USB implementation it would not take more than a few hours to make it available on macOS, however this can cause eyebrow rises from the folks in Cupertino, so, well, it is not (officially) supported. Another option would be someone unaffiliated with Corsair, somehow posting some open source code on github that interfaces with the LNPro/CmdPro...

Well, you changed the Corsair pre applied paste to a Kryonaut, that alone could had done all the thermal improvements you saw.

I too have both ML120 and ML120Pro, and I have zero noise on my fans - other than air movement noise, of course. Try to run them disassembled from your devices, so you can spin them 360 degrees and find out 1) if they are producing any noise and 2) which angle they provide noise. Maybe it is something hitting the rotor or the blades.

Uh, the RGB/lightning ports on my Commander Pro are only two. The 6 ports are for the fans/pump...

Caps discussion aside, and apart of clearly missing physics classes[1], why would you spend $600 on a cooling solution for a $150 card? This is not directed for you, but a reminder to anyone on these forums or the new ones to come: You only water cool a system if you have the latest and greatest. If you need to sacrifice original components performance to afford a cooling solution, then the water cooler premium is not for you. Save this cost to get yourself an off the shelf better product, it will do you much better in the long term. Also, water cooling systems have a forgotten benefit of silence. If you don’t add a case made out of fans to get deaf by how much air flows thru it, a water cooling system can be used to quiet things. I have water cooled systems for high end systems running with 4 fans total on a sub 800RPM range, PSU included. If I wanted noise, I would go inside my datacenter where the extremely high airflow fans keep processors of my servers cool. If you have money to burn and want a gazillion of colorful LEDs just to fulfill your RGB needs, good for you (I guess?). But you don’t need a water cooling, you can be better served with a LED strip that doesn’t leak, doesn’t require periodic maintenance and is much, much more cheaper (and quieter). [1] you won’t be able to take your card to 16C unless you make the environment, the liquid and the materials at a lower temperature. This is called thermal equilibrium. It is much easier to remove 40C out of a 96C card to make it run at 56C by “warming up” the 21C (73F) room, the 21C liquid and the materials (radiator) than playing inside a freezer.

That blade spinner cutter actually works for PETG AND acrylic, if you know the material and how to use it. On hard acrylic, you would rotate it so the blades would cut it clean. However on the softer PETG, you rotate it against the blades, just so it scraps the softer material out of it. Also, if you cut with a decent cutter and have a solid, straight cut, the finishing is pretty easy as there won’t be too much material to remove. This is something it always bothered me on Jayz videos.