MGriff

Got it installed. Need to re-do a couple of bends to make the lines parallel but the reservoir looks nicely positioned now. Cheers :sunglasse

Hi again, I literally ordered the angled bracket that morning, thinking it might well be the solution! It has just arrived, so we shall see. Probably a good shout. Wish I was adept at CNC machining and could make my own reservoir and even a distribution plate, but then again I probably wouldn't ever come out of the workshop.. Cheers, will post a pic when it's done if I manage it :biggrin:

Hi, I am having trouble deciding where to put the pump/res combo. It is a 120ml size res with a D5 pump. The direction is outlet --> GPU --> bottom rad --> CPU --> top rad --> res inlet. Please ignore the single frosted tube in a hockey stick shape, I ran out of tubing last night and used a pre-cut piece until more tubing arrives later :) At present it's in the rear exhaust positon and this is what I usually settle on. But ideally I want to free that area.. I have it on its side so I can align the pump oulet with the GPU and the inlet with the top rad run easier (I also prefer the inlet at the top of the res, which eliminates some of the issues to do with the proximity of inlet/outlet ports and air bubbles being thrown into the inlet). I also sort of like that I can see water flowing back into the rest (if that's a valid reason to sideways sit it...) I can't put it under the GPU due to clearance. I don't really want to put it on the front radiator either. It is a 45mm rad. At the bottom of front rad, the bends of the ports are tight. The dimensions of the pump and bracket are about 86mm deep and the gap between the bottom rad and PSU shroud is 90mm, so I could in theory use the bottom outlet port rather than the front. But I just don't think it's very good having a rest at the bottom of the set up generally. At the middle of front rad it would bump the GPU (my Zotac 2080 Super Amp is 290mm and there is literally 60mm clearance to the radiator (not enough for the 86mm combo). At the top of front rad it would similarly bump the top rad tubes or, if I switched it round - which I could do if the combo was being moved from rear exhaust - it would nevertheless bump the fans Have thought of getting a separate pump and res...the D5 could be fixed to the bottom of the front rad easily but then, assuming the res should properly fit on top of (or some position above it) I would have trouble fixing it to the middle/top positions of the front rad. I could potentially get a flat res similar to what I am using now I suppose. FYI I tried the XD5 and XD3 but I had problems for a few months trying to get them to work before I gave up and went with my current combo. Please let me know if further images will assist. Thank you in advance, any ideas appreciated!

I used Zotac’s Firestorm software to overclock. My pump speed was set to constant 65%. My spec is in my profile. Initially I tried the OC scanner and got 30MHz GPU clock/1875MHz boost. Then I went manual. I started with the memory and got it up to 1500MHz, going up around 100MHz at a time. At 1600 MHz there were some artifacts in Unigine’s Heaven. I went back down to 1500MHz and it was stable. Heaven gave a mark of 4846 and 4852 on test and re-test. Superposition gave 4402 and 4402 on re-test. I then went onto the GPU clock (with mem boost put back to zero), jumping in at 50 MHz clock. At 100 I got minor artifacting on Heaven but Superposition was fine, with scores of 4664 and 4271 respectively. I put it at 80MHz clock and got a minor artifact in Heaven, Superposition was fine and the scores were 4625 and 4246 – so only a small drop in score for a more or less stable GPU OC. Then I combined them. Firstly I dropped the GPU clock from 80 to 50 and memory from 1500 to 1200 (I understand it is better to reduce when you are combining them rather than when testing each in isolation). My results were – GPU 50 Mem 1200 – 4816 Heaven / 4477 Superposition GPU 60 Mem 1250 – 4835 Heaven / 4495 Superposition GPU 65 Mem 1300 – 4842 Heaven / 4507 Superposition GPU 70 Mem 1400 – 4875 Heaven / 4529 Superposition GPU 75 Mem 1400 – 4877 Heaven / 4538 Superposition GPU 85 Mem 1450 – 4893 Heaven / 4558 Superposition GPU 85 Mem 1400 – 4906 Heaven / 4565 Superposition (dialled back memory due to minor artifact) I then ran Timespy twice and got 12,008 / 12,092, which is apparently in the top 7% for this GPU. Is the way I approached the overclock alright, and what are the final benchmarks on Heaven/Superposition/Timespy? I don't think there's any point trying to fine-tune anymore is there? Just, sort of, see how I go with games? Thanks!

Are you sure yours is the Crystal version and not the Mirror Edition? Because I think the Mirror Edition has the GPU vertical mount option built into it. If you buy the Phanteks one then yes you would need to cut at least 1 of the bars on your case between the PCI slots at the rear. You could go for CableMods version which builds in an inch or so space and comes with 2x 90 degree DP cables. Just bear in mind it will close the gap between your GPU and the front fans/rad by an inch or so (it is also quite pricey)

Hi Brian, You could try a splitter on the RGB cables from the fans but I think putting >6 on an RGB fan LED hub would draw too much power from the 5v. It would be best to have 2x RGB fan LED hubs and splitting the fans into 4 on each. That would use up the 2 lighting channels on your node pro...but you could get a splitter for the hubs themselves and that would avoid the power draw problem because each has its own 5v sata connection to the PSU. And then you have 1 lighting channel spare, for LED strips or otherwise. The splitter is here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Corsair-RGB-Fan-LED-Hub-Splitter-Cable-Corsair-Style-/372640153415 (depending on where you live, you could find similar products in other countries). The corsair RGB Fan LED hub (if you don't already have a second one) is here: https://www.corsair.com/uk/en/Categories/Products/Custom-Cooling/Accessories/CORSAIR-RGB-Fan-LED-Hub/p/CO-8950020.

Hi gimenezadrian, It could be conflicting lighting profiles. When you select the channel on which your LED strips are connected, have you just got the one profile on there are are there multiple (as in the attached pic). And have you got fans and LED strips on the same channel? I don't think it's a power issue because they either wouldn't function or you would get weird lighting/flickering.

Hi Wellsy, I have the 570X Crystal and a rad and fans up top (30mm and 25mm respectively). I also have the Vengeance Pro RGB ram (2x8GB) although my motherboard is the MSI B450 Tomahawk Max. The rad bumps the top of the ram sticks although it is just about resting with minimal pressure. I had a 28mm rad up top earlier and there was a small but discernible gap. Your rad is I think 27mm, and your fans are definitely 25mm. so you've got +1mm on my original set up where there was still a small gap. If no one else has your particular set up you could mock-up a cuboid and try to slot it up underneath the chassis ceiling and above the RAM sticks...

Yeah it looks weird how it is all congealed too. Nah no information in the manual about the height of the pads. Pads were supplied but they were in an unbranded bag, stacked on top of one another. Thought it best to go with Arctic or another known brand. I think you're right about 1mm vs 1.5mm I bought a 5v DRGB strip for the GPU plate and I look forward to finishing my final mod (well, until the next mod I think of! ;))

I checked the CPU and GPU paste and pads to Thermal Grizzly's paste. My previous paste was Arctic MX4 and pads were Arctic 1.5mm thick. Looking at the old paste, it looks like it congealed and stuck to the cooler plate in disassembly. I also installed a 45mm thick Alphaool Nexxus at the front which arrived yesterday, and took the opportunity which it was drained to put that sensor into the EK reservoir as well. You can see that in pic 4 (on Witcher 3, High settings) my temp is much reduced. I had the case glass off whilst I was testing the water loop but it is back on now and I will test it with the glass back on tonight. Will also test other games to see what the temp is like. LeDoyen - I can't do the pull config at the front because unfortunately my drain port is at the back of the front rad, so if I take the fans off of that side it will make the rad flush against the chassis and the port inaccessible. And you might have been right about the pads being too thick and preventing good contact with the die! Will consider the GPU plate and whether it restricts water flow, but the Bykski is the only one I have found for the Zotac 2020 Super Amp : / Thanks for your help :)

Thanks both. The 3 fans front and 2 top are all intake, in a push config. I would have had an exhaust on the rear 120 slot but had to put my pump/reservoir there and there isn't enough room for a fan as well dye to clearance with the cpu block. I bumped it up to 4000 rpm and got around 65 degrees on the GPU, so I don't think it's a restriction in the loop (?) That said, I wish the first connection between the pump outlet and GPU inlet was cleaner, it was too tight to go straight into the topside GPU from either the front or bottom pump outlets. When I get the new front radiator I will also re-seat the water blocks, both cores and also the pads on the GPU. I will take a photo to show the previous spread of paste (and will manually spread it when I re-seat, as you suggest). Will let you know how it goes. Incidentally, I have just installed a DRGB 3-pin-to-corsair connector, I think it was £11 for 2 of them on Amazon. I used one of them to get my EK Quantum synced with the rest of my corsair RGB via the compro/node pro. It works well! :) Just need to do something similar with my 4-pin GPU block RGB or take out the existing strip and swap it

Hello All, I built a new PC a few months ago including a custom water loop. I had issues in getting the pump to work and I eventually used an EK Quantum FLT pump/res combo. My GPU is also quite long which made placement and/or size of my pump and front rad difficult. My GPU thermals at 100% load in game have reduced from a steady 84 degrees to around 70 degrees but occasionally increasing to 75. My CPU was only at 20% because it was more graphic-intensive and sat at about 60 degrees. Idle the GPU/CPU are around 34/45 degrees. I don't think at least the loaded values are right for my custom loop and I am going to try the following, so please let me have your thoughts on these proposals - - replacing the front 360 rad with an Alphacool 360mm 45mm depth - replacing paste and pads with thermal grizzly/minus pads 8 - some how introduce an exhaust fan despite the limited space (?!) - removing the 2x Corsair ML120s from the pull config on the front rad - install thermometer in one of the G1/4 ports and link to CoPro, and set SP fans speeds to coolant temp with custom curve (which I have to calculate/set up too) My current set up is as follows - - Pump: EK Quantum FLT 120 D5, running ar around 2,000 rpm - Front rad: 360 Bykski 28mm depth - Top rad: 240 Bykski 28mm depth - CPU block: Corsair XC7 - GPU block: Bykski - Thermal paste on cores: Arctic MX4 - Thermal pads on GPU VRMS etc: Arctic 1.5mm - Fans: 5x Arctic P12 PMW (push config on rads) and 2x Corsair ML120 (pull config on rad) - Cooland: EK Cryofuel The loop runs pump outlet --> GPU --> front rad --> top rad --> CPU --> pump inlet. My computer spec is on my profile (I don't want to bulk this post out). I have a commander pro, node pro and DeepCool RGB converter/controller. Thanks :)

Hi all, I have my custom loop working now. I had tried 2x XD5s and 2x XD3s but as per my previous posts I couldn't get any response from the D5/DCC pumps at all. I bought an EK Quantum FLT D5 and it fired up straight away. I have no idea why the others wouldn't work. A bit frustrating that my pump rgb is on different software to the corsair products (for which I use iCue). Will really bug me that I won't know what prevented the other pumps from working too. I just have to return this last XD3 pump, which I feel bad about but if I can't get it to work... Thanks for the help guys

Hi Daniel, I had a similar concern with my Zotac 2080 Super AMP and would have gone with the Corsair cooler if it was compatible. I spoke with Zotac, Corsair and EKWB about possible solutions. Someone recommenced Bykski, who sell on inter alia Ali Express I have found a listing which might match your card, the PCB layout in the advert looks like the one on guru3d.com for your GPU. Bykski Listing here Guru3d PCB image here My Bykski water block for the Zotac GPU fit well, although I haven't been able to test it because of other issues in my computer! Look around on Ali Express to find a reputed vendor and check that your particular GPU is listed as compatible. Also consider whether you want 12v/5v and whether you're going to control RGB via your motherboard or a separate controller (which you can also easily/cheaply get from AliExpress).

So both of the XD5s have been diagnosed as 'non-functional' on testing. I asked for further information particularly about the 2nd pump which has just been tested. The adviser said that the RMA had been recorded only as 'non-functional pump'. Prior to these two Corsair pumps I had bought another from a pretty well-known Chinese manufacturer (who also made my GPU water block), which did not work either. They have received and tested that pump now and today sent me a video showing the pump spinning. I am assuming they are really testing the pump I returned and not another, pump, of course. I cannot work it out. My PSU is functional, my Molex cable is too and it delivers 12v/ground on the 2 pins which connect with the two pins on the pump's molex port. That's all I should need to get at least vibration and sound from the pump, right? No other connections e.g. PMW cable to fan header and power to the motherboard etc... It is hard to reconcile (a) that my electrics seem to be working, (b) the Chinese pump didn't work but it worked when it was tested by their company, © the two returned Corsair XD5s which didn't work were tested and diagnosed as non-functional by Scan.co.uk and (d) I have now had 4 non-working pumps (incluidng the most recent XD3 which is still in my system). Factors (b) and (d) suggest it is me/my system, © militates against that and (a) is tenuous because I am not an electrician... I am speaking with someone from Corsair's tech team at the moment, have exchanged a few messages over the last few days and hopefully narrowing down the cause. Will update when I know more. Sorry about all the posts, I hope something useful comes out of this!