Jarambo

Why is your driver not verified? What a sh** show!

Installed the legacy version, seemed to work but then just crashes and freezes so essentially I'm left here with a cooler that doesn't work. if somebody could give me a version that actually works on a H115i Platinum and Windows 11 that would be great and might be able to actualy play a computer game without fear of my CPU being destroyed.

Uninstalled the software and deleted the registry entries then reinstalled. Same deal. The software been screwed for the last few versions it's getting to be annoying.

Program isn't working anymore doesn't show any sensors etc and cant change the profiles it's totally broken and been getting more broken each time i update this software. Can i please have a working version of the software so that i know my CPU inst getting burned to a crisp, would be a nice addition to the non-existent features i currently have, thanks.

Bought one of these from your Amazon store and it's arrived and today i finally went to use it and there are no lights, no fans moving no lights on the fans, the CPU hitting 91c in the BIOS and a burning smell came from it when i first turned it on. Just so you know. Oh and the H115i RGB Platinum i bought a few months ago has developed a fault in the light on one of the fans so there is no RGB functionality and it's stuck on green.:eek::confused:

Hi it's been a while and i was hoping i'd get an answer here before i start messing around with the pump/backplate again. Anyone got any idea's/suggestions on what to do or is the product defective? I want to try using the old backplate/standoffs from my old corsair cooler and don't want to go ahead with this until i know for certain that it's not gonna damage anything and be compatible.

Hi i got a Corsair Hydro 115i RGB Platinum to replace my broken 100i and the temperatures are not good. Took off the pump from the CPU and noticed the thermal paste pre-applied to the cold plate is only making contact with the right hand side of the CPU. Tried making screws tighter etc, same problem. I even took off the backplate and put some washers around the bits the standoff's screw into and still have the exact same problem. The only way i can see to make it cool half decent is by putting a lot of thermal paste on the CPU to force it to have more contact......and even then it's idle at 32c which is bad because my 100i was almost bang on 25c when it was idle. I do not like how much space there seems to be between the left hand side of my CPU and the coldplate, the thermal paste is showing me it's not even making contact with it at all which is shocking. I'm wondering could i use the backplate and the other parts of my h100i on the 115i RGB and see if it fixes the issues? The only thing i could imagine doing this would be the standoofs that came with the cooler......using the original ones i had with the h100i might fix it? Just looking for an opinion before i try anything incase the screws are a tiny bit different or something?

Yesterday i came home and turned on the machine and tried to move it around to shift or break up whatever debris was in the cooler or air bubbles and it started to make that really weird static sound from the pump and then fully 100% died. The pump starts for a couple of seconds during powering up then just cuts out fully leaving my CPU to get to stupidly high temperatures. I already bought a newer model corsair 115i RGB to replace it and as the cooler is still under warranty i'm going to put in a support ticket and get it replaced and keep as a spare or give to one of my friends who is using my Corsair H50 that is almost 10 years old lol.

Hi, i have been having computer issues lately and finally figured them out(it was Microsofts fault with new updates) but in the process i had removed and installed the corsair H100i a few times because i thought it was hardware related and had to replace parts to diagnose the problem which eventualy turned out not to be hardware related. Now the weird part......suddenly the idle temps are way higher than they used to be. I experimented with different thermal paste spreading techniques ,the best for my i7 4790k is a very thin layer all over and a tiny pea sized ball in the middle. It's up to 10c cooler than putting too much. I even tried using just the bit in the middle, the line method, the X method etc.......out of all of the methods the spread thing and tiny ball in the middle works best at least for my heatspreader. I thought i had it fixed and got my temps back down to the mid 20's at idle. But then one time i turned it on and suddenly it was making the STRANGEST sound ever. The only way to describe it is as if there was something inside the pump rattling around really badly i was pretty scared at that point that somehow it was my CPU frying lol i was like WTF....... So i changed pump speed a couple of times and suddenly it went away. But now i notice EVERY time i turn it on the pump makes this sort of "skooshing" sound like a water pistol and just sounds a bit like it's rattling now when i first power on the machine......i tried tapping the pump etc and nothing has brought my temps back to what they use to be. The lowest i can now get it is 32c idle but as soon as i try Prime95 it goes right up over 90c. I'm pretty fed up taking the pump on and off and checking and double checking everything over and over and come to the conclusion that the radiator/pump or tubes are clogged up or something. Should i ask for an RMA? And can i pay for a new cooler whilst the RMA is being processed? Worst case scenario is i end up with 2 coolers. I already have 2 motherboard now and 2 PSU's and went up from 16gb of RAM to 32GB because of the Microsoft problem lol. Been a very frustrating 2 weeks for me.