Jump to content

sebastiannielse

Members
  • Posts

    173
  • Joined

  • Days Won

    1

sebastiannielse last won the day on February 7 2016

sebastiannielse had the most liked content!

Reputation

14 Good
  1. I really don't think Pascal will be such a enormous leap forward. They always say that "omg our next line of card will be 10x faster" but in reality, the card is only like 2x faster than the previous generation. It has with physical limits to do. There is 2 alternatives when it comes to chip making: 1: Either make the litography smaller. Here you will reach a limit where it will be more and more difficult to make it smaller, since when you reach the wavelength of light in detail size (currently they use UV light to reach smallest possible wavelength), its simply not possible to increase the detail any further. EUV light can reach 10nm, and that is simply the smallest size chip you can do. The GTX 980 Ti for example, is 28nm, and if you halve that to 14nm, you gain a 4x performance increase, but might lose about 100-200% in heat, giving 2x-3x performance. Note that there is limits on how near you can go to the limit. Pascal will be 16nm so there you will still be VERY near limit. 2: Or make the chip larger, but keep the size of the details, but that instead means the whole chip work a little bit slower, since the electricity signals needs time to reach from the far end of the chip to the near end of the chip. Im really not that impressed of Pascal. I think Pascal will just be pretty much faster than 980 Ti, but it will not be groundbreaking, it will be like GTX 970 vs GTX 980 ti. Same will be with pascal.
  2. mattlach: Since that scew does not screw into the HG10 bracket, it does not neccessary need to be identical to the screws shipped with the bracket. I can say a standard M3 screw and nut fit in that hole on the card. I had to do the same on my card since I had the exact same "issue" to so say. I actually used a CD drive screw, and then a random m3 nut found in my toolbox, to screw together that loop and the card.
  3. >>though it would be good to get some actual measurements. For that, the temp probes that is shipped with Corsair Commander Mini is excellent.
  4. the h80i has a thicker radiator, so the surface size is very near the surface size of h100i. But if you have the space for a 240mm radiator, so why not? So youur 120mm radiator is able to get the temps below 40C in full load with uingine?
  5. mattlach: The idea behind a benchmark is to get how a card perform in "worst case". Because that is whats matter, because you cant know if your´e getting so unlucky so you get a dozen high-poly enemies spawned in a specific part of the game. Many games use random to decide such things, thus to get consistent result and not a card get a good score because you were lucky (with regards to graphic load) in a game, you need to use benchmarks. Even if you would use a bot to play a game, you would still get different loads from play to play. One example is GTA V that random spawns civilian cars. So this is another evidence that a h100i GTX is a great thing to put on a video card, especially if you get the fan settings just right to get the temps down to ~40.
  6. I think 60c is very bad, even if you get 80c with stock cooler. 80c then you are literally TOASTING the silicon into a bit of coal over time... (come on! Look at the rubbish nvidia stock cooler. The surface area of the stock cooler is so small so you can literally laught at it, Nvidia really need to hire a new designer for their cooling) 70c is like "You are atleast TRYING to cool the card, but come on!" 60c is more like "Yeah, a little bit of cooling but not great!". 50c is like "Nice cooling dude, but it can be improved." 40c is like "Finally! Now the card will survive very long time." <35 in load is like "You are a cooling champion!". After tinkering a little with the settings in Corsair link with fixed fans instead of temperature controlled fans, I have managed to achieve a maximum temp of 40*C in unigine. Should experiment a little more, connect the pull fans of the h100i GTX to the Corsair Commander mini instead, and make the pull fans run a bit faster than the push fans, to create a lower pressure inside the radiator, thus lowering the temperature more.
  7. mattlach: That review seems to use only gaming to measure the temperature, not a benchmarking software. Since a game does not put full load at the card always, the temps will of course be lower. Also their ambient seem to be lower, my ambient is more near 23*C. I did a second test to see if I could get the temps lower, and I actually got the temps lower now. By running unigine for a hour, I did a "burn-in" of the card so the TIM gets to settle propely (as you know, Artic Silver 5 needs a longer session with higher temps to "settle" propely), and now the temps during unigine stays around 35-42. The HG10 N980 is VERY effective cooling the VRM and VRAM too. My card does not have any VRM/VRAM probe, but I can feel that the bracket itself gets hot to the touch when the card is under load. Thats a strong suggestion that solutions without VRM/VRAM cooling such as those "fits-all-card" products with just air blowing at the VRM and no heatsink, and no cooling of VRAM at all, that will mount to any NVIDIA or AMD card, will shorten the life of your card.
  8. The PCB must be reference, but the cooler doesn't need to be reference. But I would still recommend getting a card with a reference cooler if you are going to remove the stock cooler anyways, because then you can be sure its a reference card with reference cooler and all Components just at the right Place.
  9. 71.5% is mine. Its was a completely reference card, with ref cooler and Everything, Before I fitted the N980.
  10. Mattlach: Ambient is 22,7*C And ASIC.... I don't know how to check that? How I do to check that in Gigabyte cards? I looked in nvidia Control panel and Nvidia Experience but couldn't find anything. Also, im NOT using the stock SP120L's that is delivered with the h100i GTX. Rather im using purchased SP120's HP PWM edition, those fans are better. Another thing to notice is that its a quite difference between h100i and h100i GTX, since both the radiator, hosing diameter and pump is improved on the GTX. Thus I suspect your H90's will propably be maybe 7-10*C off. About the mounting: Its more that there is not enough mounting Points on the card to give a enough counterpressure. Its just that the PCB is "too soft" with regards to the spacing between mounting Points. A solutiion if its current design should be kept, eg if you are not going to sacrifice Coolit support, then: 1: Supply a frame (eg a metal piece) with a round hole (slightly larger than a asetek cooler head) and m3 studs, that can be placed in the Square hole, and the frame will overlap the Square hole a Little bit, and then you get 4 extra mounting Points for the bracket, but that frame can then only be used with asetek coolers. This frame could be pretty large and even have holes so it fit over the 8 studs, then it would be super-stable. The Square hole of course needs to be a bit larger. 2: Move the whole cooler assembly about 0.5-1.5mm closer to the VRMs, and extend the threaded pipe on one of the corners with 2mm. Then, one of the standoffs supplied, should then have a very long screw section so it screws through the bracket and comes out on the back of the card. Then a nut is provided. I don't Think moving the cooler assemply this littlle would affect cooling. Also you need to supply 5 thumbscrews then, one thumbscrew with a very long screw section, that is used for one of the corner when mounting a Square cooler, and then 4 normal thumbscrews. This because one of the intel screw corners is over one of the mounting holes for the PCB, but slightly off. If the design of the bracket would be changed so this corner aligns with the PCB hole, a long standoff and a long thumbscrew can go through the threaded hole in bracket and then through the card, and then a nut is screwed on. Implementing these design Changes would give 5 extra mounting Points for asetek owners and 1 extra mounting Point for Coolit owners. The cooler would still be mounted to the bracket, but since more mounting Points are provided for the bracket, the card wouldn't bend or flex when attaching the cooler.
  11. Makalaure: Agree. However, if Corsair implements a design change, it does not neccessarly mean the pump should be mounted directly to the card. The important thing are that the holes around the GPU is used, so its possible to design a working cooler->bracket->card solution. So the design change could aswell mean that the hole in the bracket for the GPU chip is made round instead of Square, and then studs and 4 m3 screws are added so the bracket is also affixed to the 4 corner holes around the GPU chip. (that would however make the bracket incompatible with the Square Coolit coolers)
  12. Yeah, I did take a screenshot immediately after exiting Valley. During valley, the top temp was 45 and the lowest temp was 35. First I tought Corsair Link averaged the temps over a larger timeperiod (like a couple of seconds) while Valley takes instans temps, but actually, it seems it cool very quickly. I tought it couldn't cool that quickly after letting go of the load.
  13. Here is the mod: First, I used a dremel, to grind away a Little bit of metal, that was partially covering two of the four corner holes around the GPU: http://i.imgur.com/2FDxkqrm.jpg Then I mounted Everything temporarly on the card, mounted the intel bracket without cooler, and then dipped the tip of a small screwdriver into hand lotion, and then dipped straight in the holes of the GPU: http://i.imgur.com/TXXDtbXm.jpg Result: http://i.imgur.com/m77txnLm.jpg See. Now I know where to drill. Drilled and countersunk: http://i.imgur.com/Gj94CEDm.jpg Mounted Everything. The cooler is now mounted BOTH to the bracket using the thumbscrews *AND* directly into the card using 4x M3x20: http://i.imgur.com/MEngPmDm.jpg Mounted in computer: http://i.imgur.com/3S6SHJZm.jpg And some benchmarking: (No OC, Everything is stock) (h100i GTX with 4x Corsair SP120 High Perfomance Edition in pushpull) IDLE: http://i.imgur.com/jctwfAT.png AFTER 15 MINUTES OF UNIGINE VALLEY ON ULTRA HD: http://i.imgur.com/JlABoPG.png Conclusion? I AM SO HAPPY! Got the load temps down to low 30s. That would NOT be possible with those hxx coolers, better use a hxxx cooler.
  14. The thing is that when the Cable were there, the bracket would come down only if you press on it, and then the board did warp. It LOOKS like the thermal pads on the very rear end are too thick, but thats not true, since the thermal pads are soft enough to give after for the components. Since there is 2 screw rows between the GPU and the Power connector acting as fulcrums, when the Cable gets caught between the capacitor and sheet, substantional force are put upwards at the end of the card since the Cable is too thick to fit between the capacitor and the sheet (imagining the N980+card combo placed on a table with PCB side up), causing the card to warp upwards there. Then the part with VRM warps like a u, and the part with GPU then warps like a n. When you press hard and screw on the card, the Cable might get really pinched between the capacitor and sheet, but there is still force excerted on the card upwards at the capacitor locations. Another thing that might happen due to the pinching, is that some Components of the card might not align exactly with the cutout in the bracket, causing it to warp due to this. This misalignment can cause serious warping. (Also make sure you have removed the clear protective plasic tape on the thermal pads, else they wont give after) But once the Cable were away from obstruction, and wiggling a bit back and forth, the bracket just fell into Place itself, just with gravity. There was no need for any force at all, and when screwing the screws on it didn't bend the card at all. You can make the screws fully tight without any warping at all. (It might be Another when putting on the cooler, but without cooler it should not warp at all if you done the mounting correctly) You need to carefully make sure the Cable is not caugt between the sheet and the capacitor, or between the sheet and connector. Use a screwdriver to carefully poke the Cable out of way of these while mounting.
  15. SOOOOO HAPPY!!!!!! Got a Sms "Your order is ready for pickup at Inet Circle-island", guess what? Happiness in a box! the wait is over, finally, the wait is over for me! http://i.imgur.com/9jVwepym.jpg Have now mounted it to the card. The bend/warp is barely visible to the naked Eye. Its as much bend it was with the stock cooler on. And also found WHY the card bends when other people mounted it: It has NOTHING with the thermal pads or sizing of the standoffs to do. What happens, is that the fan Cable, gets pinched between the metal sheet and the odd/middle capacitor of the Group of 5 solid capacitors near the Power connector. The clearance there is less than like 0.3mm (the sheet has a Little round cutcout just for that capacitor). You need to carefully make sure the Cable is not caugt between the sheet and the capacitor, or between the sheet and connector. Use a screwdriver to carefully poke the Cable out of way of these while mounting. On these Pictures, the bracket is screwed on pretty tight! http://i.imgur.com/cCLKm67.jpg But however, the support between the bracket and the GPU processor is very weak, why a simple mod of the intel bracket is required. I will show it off once its complete.
×
×
  • Create New...